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May 18, 2009, 08:43 PM
Curiouser and curiouser
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New Product

Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4Ch Tx V2: USER MANUAL (messages 1 to 4)

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Description: Version 2, available from 2010 to present
Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4Ch Tx & Rx V2
Sold in several warehouses across the world:
Hong Kong Warehouse
US, Arkansas Warehouse
US, Oregon Warehouse
UK Warehouse
EU Warehouse


1. INTRODUCTION [this message, message #1]

2. QUICK START GUIDE [message #2]

*Included items

*12 steps to test you radio system

*Steps 3 - 7 of the testing procedure binds your Rx to the Tx so that the Rx will recognize ONLY your Tx


*Distance (range) of use
*External Power
*Signal Dropout Warning

*Battery warning light
*Rechargeable Batteries
*Charging batteries


*A guide to lots of information for the more technically experienced (or the more adventuresome).
*Putting the trainer jack on the back of the Tx to use for either training or to control a computer flight simulator
*Reducing the number of cells needed to power your Tx
*Modifying the voltage thresholds for the battery warning light
*Throttle stick modification to increase the travel of that channel
*Tearing this cheap Tx apart to move the 2.4 GHz RF module to your REAL expensive but very old Tx will bring that $1000 Rx into the 21st century.
*Schematic of the logic board.


This radio has been sold by Hobby King since 2008 and it has become very popular.
It has proven itself to be very reliable and user friendly for applications that do not require more than four channels.
It is one of the least expensive available. HK sells it through its Hong Kong warehouse and many other warehouses scattered around the globe.
The popularity of this radio shows up in the number of views this manual has experienced as of the last month of 2017 - 189,168 !

The main drawback of this radio is that it is shipped with absolutely NO MANUAL OR START UP GUIDE!
This, so called manual, posted here, is an attempt to remedy that problem. Many experts who have used and studied the radio have provided most of the information.
Messages #1 through #4 are frequently updated to include the latest facts condensed from the on going discussion that you may read in messages #5 up to the last message.
Starting in 2010 a second, much improved, version 2 hit the market and the older version 1 was discontinued.
Although the performance was improved the differences between the versions are mostly transparent to the casual user.
You will be able to tell if you have a version 2 model by looking at the orange label near the middle of the front of the transmitter case. It should say "HK-T4A V2". The old version 1 is labelled just "HK-T4A".
Another difference is that the v2 ships with a slightly different receiver. The old receiver was built into two small boxes and the newer one is in just one small box. The receivers with the different versions ARE NOT compatible with each other.
This manual now reflects the v2 model except where noted.
If you purchased a used V1 model these instructions will still work for you - the differences are largely transparent to the new user.

Please make additional posts to this thread if you have corrections, suggestions, or comments.
The HK-T4A V2 is sure to undergo some manufacturing changes as time goes on please post your observations if you have this radio and it does not match, exactly, what is described here. I will attempt to make changes and additions appropriate to your comments.
Walt Bankes

Here is a very readable "review" (version 1) from long ago.
Last edited by Kokopeli; Aug 26, 2018 at 05:45 PM.
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May 19, 2009, 10:11 AM
Curiouser and curiouser
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Quick Start Guide

[If you are an experienced RCer, you may want to skip this post - it is intended for the newbie who needs to check out the new radio to see if it works before using it to control a model]

Here are the items that are shipped to you:
Binding plug

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Description: Binding plug
Binding plug inserted in receiver

You will need for initial testing:
*Eight AA Alkaline Cells to power the transmitter (leave the issue of rechargeable batteries until later)
*A servo*
*One receiver battery – 4.8 to 6 volts

Insert 8 fresh alkaline batteries into the rear compartment of the radio oriented as shown by the + and - marks molded into the compartment wall.
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Description: Install eight AA cells.

Turn on the Transmitter.
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Description: Green light on when power switch is on
You should see the LED on the front panel glow green.

Turn off the transmitter.
[ ... steps 3 through 7 are known as "the binding procedure" - the receiver may already be bound as it comes from the factory. But it doesn't hurt to rebind it. Binding is needed so that your receiver will only recognize one and only one transmitter]

Connect the Binding Plug to the three pins in the BAT position on the receiver. (See picture below)

Connect the receiver battery (NO GREATER THAN 6 VOLTS) to any other of the three pin positions with the negative side (usually black) toward the edge of the Receiver and the +voltage to the middle pin as shown in the picture.
************************************************** **
[If you do not have an appropriate voltage battery, you have probably bought a model kit that provides the correct voltage to the receiver through an Electronic Speed Controller (ESC) - the ESC contains a BEC (battery eliminator circuit) to reduce the voltage from a higher voltage to the proper voltage. You should borrow a proper , less than 6v. battery from a friend. If you don't, you are presented with a "chicken and egg" problem - you will be simultaneously trying to setup and test both your model and your radio at the same time - that is difficult for a newbie since there are possible conflicting issues with setting up the radio and setting up the ESC and motor for the first time - GET HELP]. Of course, if you already have a working model for which you are just changing radios, all you need to do is plug the ESC into the Rx for your testing - no problem. However, you might be a complete newbie with this new radio and a new model - then you will need help.
************************************************** **

You should now see an LED blink inside of the receiver.
If it does not blink you will not be able to see it because it is hidden inside the case, which is dark translucent plastic. It is kind of like looking at someone smoking a cigar who is inside of a SUV which has dark tinted windows.
This picture should help you locate the red light.

Pick up your transmitter,
hold down the "BIND RANGE TEST" button - don't release it,
Turn on the transmitter power while watching the LED blink inside the receiver.
When the LED stops blinking and stays lit you may release the BIND button.
The receiver is now bound to YOUR transmitter and will only respond to commands from THAT transmitter.

Disconnect the battery from the receiver,
unplug the binding plug and put it in a safe place - you will not use it often (if ever). But if you do need it - you need it NOW.

Turn off the Transmitter.

Plug a servo into the CH1 location on the receiver.
(picture below)

Turn on your transmitter, then
Plug the battery into the receiver BAT position- again with the neg. lead next to the edge of the case and the positive lead in the center pin.
Always do it in this order - first [A]: turn on Tx then, [B]: turn on Rx.
The only time you do it in the reverse order is when you are BINDING.

Move the CHANNEL #1 control stick on the Tx to see if the servo rotates about 90 degrees. Move the trim control for CH1 to see if it causes the servo to rotate a few more degrees. Move the CH1 "REV-NOR" switch to the opposite position. Again, move the CH1 control stick to ensure that the direction of rotation of the servo is reversed.
[Note: This picture shows the "Mode 2" version. If you have the Mode 1 version (throttle on right stick - popular in places other than North America) you will have to experiment to find what the relationship is between the control stick, REV switch, and the CH# connector on the Rx (receiver) ]

Control layout for "Mode 2" transmitter (Mode 2 is used mostly in North America - Mode 1 layout is different).
The channel #s in this picture relate the the channel #s printed on the receiver.

Now, move the servo connector to the next set of connection pins (Ch. 2, etc.) and repeat the above test (STEP 11) for each of the four channels.
All four channels should behave the same.
If so, congratulations! You will not have to send the radio back to be replaced
Your new radio is ready to install in your r/c model.

Last edited by Kokopeli; Dec 13, 2017 at 11:00 AM.
May 19, 2009, 01:38 PM
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Post #3 More specific details


Compatibility - The transmitter may not be used with other brands of receivers and the receiver may not be used with other brands of transmitters.
It is manufactured by FLYSKY of China who makes it for Hobby King. They also relable this radio for other vendors to use as their house brands. Therefore, this manual MAY be useful if you happen to have one of those radios. The clue that your other brand MAY be the same radio is that they all are in the same case but with other color labels glued on to the case.
It is not compatible with Spektrum, Futaba, JR, Hitec, etc.

Distance (range) of use - Many r/cers are suspicious that this radio does not have the max power allowed by law, and therefore believe that this radio set should be used only for limited range models - parkflyers, indoor flight, boats, cars, and robots. I have controlled a sailboat over 700 feet away with version 1 and also with a version 2.
Even though it has a button labelled "RANGE TEST", there is no range test feature.

Programmability - it is not, in any way, programmable. It does not have exponential rates, control mixing (elevon, v-tail, etc.).
It does not have what is called "model memory" to remember the setting for your different models so, you must manually adjust front panel switches as you switch from using the radio to control one model to another.

Failsafe - when the receiver loses the signal from the transmitter, in more expensive radios, the servos are driven to a "fail safe" position. Not so with this radio. When that condition exists the receiver stops sending a position signal to the all servos except channel #4. Channel #4 is driven to center position and all the other servos go limp (no force on the lever arm).

External Power - If you want to use a wall wart to power the radio, you are out of luck because the external power jack is wired to JUST charge the batteries, if you decide to use rechargeable batteries instead of alkaline. Many owners bemoan the fact that this limitation means that you must use batteries while you are using the radio for input to computer based flight simulation programs: for that application, it is much nicer to be able to power the radio from a wall outlet, but alas, that is not possible for this radio.

Signal Dropout Warning
On some more expensive radio sets, when the Rx loses the signal from the Tx, the Rx light will start to blink and continue to blink until you cycle the power to the Rx.
That feature allows you help diagnose problems by showing you that you had a signal problem sometime since the last time you turned on the Rx power.
This radio DOES NOT have that feature.



To be able to control your model from the longest distance possible the transmitter antenna and the receiver antenna should be oriented for the most efficient transfer of energy. The picture below shows that optimal orientation. The two antennae work best when they are parallel to each other.
Therefore, the best orientation for the receiver antenna on the model would be vertical.
That is easy to do on surface models (boats and cars). However, for aircraft your model is often not upright - bummer! So you do the best you can.
For all cases you will usually hold the transmitter antenna vertical unless you start to lose control of the craft.
When you start to lose control your first impulse is to point the antenna straight at the craft - that is the worst thing you can do. The signal strength from the tip of the antenna is the very WEAKEST in that direction. The best thing you can do is hold your radio as high as you can and have the side of the antenna toward the craft.

When you install the receiver in your model put the active part of the antenna vertical and in a place that will not cause metal or carbon fiber to come between the Rx and the Tx antennas. Any conductive material will attenuate the signal.
The active part of the antenna for the supplied Rx is the red portion.
There is a smaller, three channel, Rx available that is compatible with this Tx.
It is shown in the picture, below. It has a slightly different antenna. Only the last inch is the active part.
The supplied Rx antenna is called a "folded dipole" antenna and it is more sensitive than the three channel antenna which is called a "monopole" antenna. The rest of the antenna in both cases is just cable that makes it more convenient to position the antenna tip.
Keep in mind that it is only the active part of the antenna that needs to be oriented as discussed, above.

Here are links to the two Receivers:

The first is the replacement for the Rx supplied with your Tx.
The second is the smaller three channel Rx.
[These links are to the Hong Kong warehouse. You might be able to find them in a warehouse closer to you]
The smaller Rx is less that half the weight of the one supplied with the Tx.
It is also cheaper.
However, it may not have as good a range as the larger one due to the monopole versus folded dipole antenna.

Receiver light:
The light on the receivers should blink when in the binding mode.
It should be off if either: there is no power or the receiver does not find a signal from the Tx. {the smaller Rx wil blink when there is no signal)
It should be on constantly if there is a good signal from the Tx. Sometimes it takes a few seconds for the receiver to find the proper Tx and make the connection.
On some more expensive radio sets, when the Rx loses the signal, the light will start to blink and continue to blink until you cycle the power to the Rx.
That feature allows you help diagnose problems by showing you that you had a signal problem sometime since the last time you turned on the Rx power.
This radio DOES NOT have that feature.

Battery warning light:

glows green if the voltage is above 10.1 volts
glows yellow if the voltage is between 10.1 and 9.3 volts
blinks red it the voltage is below 9.3 volts.

The green/yellow/red-blinking power light on the Tx is calibrated to work best with alkaline batteries.

Rechargeable Batteries:
If you just use non-rechargeable (throwaway) alkaline cells you will get many hours of use out of one set of cells since this transmitter draws only 85 ma. of current. You will get 20 to 60 hours of use depending on the cells you buy. (That is true for version 2 - version 1 draws 175 ma. of current, about twice the current as version 2: 85 ma.)
That is a perfectly good way to do all of your flying (or sailing) with this radio.
So you may skip this section and save your energy for having fun using your model.

While using throwaway cells is the easiest method of powering the Tx , you may choose to use rechargeable NiMH cells or even a Lithium Polymer battery.
It is possible, with some limitations, to charge them without opening the battery compartment.
Or you may want to remove them from the Tx each time you recharge to get the most complete charge. That is not as inconvenient as it sounds .
A charger is not supplied with the radio and will be discussed below.

NiMH - Nickel Metal Hydride:
It is easy to use 8 AA NiMH cells. They plug in just like the alkaline cells and by going that route you save yourself the task of opening the radio case to install a cable that would be required if you used the LiPo battery.
However, there is a concern about the warning light.
The yellow light will probably light up to soon after you start to fly because these batteries are of lower voltage than the alkaline.
So when you get a blinking red light you should land REAL soon.

LiPo - Lithium Polymer:
One model of this type of battery is designed to fit the battery compartment of this radio.

This battery features three different connectors: a servo type connector, a balance connector, and a smaller two pin connector.
It works well with the voltage warning lights and may be charged either without opening the battery compartment or by removing the battery to connect to a charger.

Installing a connector for the LiPo battery: (see picture above)
To provide a convenient connection for this battery by installing a cable from the inside of the case into the battery compartment, it is necessary to open the back of the radio by removing four screws.
There are two easy ways to make the required connection inside the case. They both utilize a futaba servo extension lead.

One of the methods for connecting the LiPo battery requires you to solder a jumper on the underside of the circuit board.

To access the bottom of the board you need to remove one screw at the top center of the board (you can see that screw in the next picture) and lift it up. This will cause the power button on the front of the case to fall off - be careful not to lose it.
Solder a jumper wire across the POWER connector as shown in the picture above.
The next step, after you solder the jumper, is to reinstall the board and plug one end of the servo cable into the power cable in place of the white connector that used to bring power from the 8 AA cells. While putting the circuit board back in place, carefully line up the BIND plug and the power LED with their respective holes in the front case.

The plug doesn't fit very securely. So it is best to put some glue on it - I used hot melt glue.

Now feed the free end of the servo connector through a hole into the battery compartment and put the back of the case in place with its four screws. You are now ready to connect the battery and use the radio to control your model

The second method for connecting the LiPo battery is to modify the servo extension lead.
Instead of soldering on the back side of the board, it requires modification of the servo cable by slipping connector pins out of the connector shell and rearranging the location of one of the pins, as shown in the picture below.
Put your magnifying glasses on and use a pointed instrument to lift the plastic ears that are holding the pins for the red and white wires. You will be able to gently slip the pins out the the connector shell. Then reinsert the red wire pin into the outside slot. Now push the small plastic tab back into place to hold the pin firmly.

Next, insert the connector into the power connector on the board - BE SURE TO GET THE POLARITY RIGHT.

Then glue the connector in place so the it won't fall out.

Feed the other end of the cable out through the back of the case and reassemble the case with four screws.
Install the LiPo battery into the battery compartment and you are ready to use your new radio.

Charging batteries:
If you want to charge your Tx battery without opening up the battery compartment, you will need a charger of the proper polarity, and current rating that will connect to the external power jack like the one shown below. (center of plug is positive +, plug outside diameter=5.5mm, inside diameter=2.1mm)

The polarity is REAL important - it must have positive voltage on the center contact of the connector.
WARNING: At least one manufacturer (Spektrum) uses the same size barrel plug but has the opposite polarity. Please don't confuse your chargers and if you do have both it would be wise to tag the connector end of the cable with an appropriate message for each so that you won't inadvertently plug the wrong one in.

Chargers for AA NiMH cells:
If you wish to keep the cost down by not using a programmable charger you may use a so called trickle charger. Then you will charge the cells overnight and disconnect the charger to prevent overcharging. The appropriate maximum current rating for a trickle charger is about 1/10 of the capacity of the batteries you choose. For example, if you use 2000 mah cells, your charger should provide about 200 ma of current at about 12 volts. For fully discharged batteries it will take about 10 - 15 hours for a recharge. It is best not to let them charge longer than that. If you would like to leave the batteries on continuous charge (for days) it would be best to use a charger that is about 1/20 of the rated battery capacity.

The picture below and the link to where to purchase it shows what is available.
This one is less that $5 and shipping is less than $4, but with digiKey you must create and account (no PayPal).
I did find one similar to it on Amazon for $10 plus shipping. Total = $16

Chargers for LiPo batteries:
The same trickle charger shown above may be used for the LiPo battery, since it features constant current and constant voltage charging.
However, this trickle charger has some limitations when used with the LiPo battery due to the fact that the voltage is not quite high enough to be optimum. The best voltage for this LiPo battery is 12.6 volts.
If you charge it without taking it out of the Tx case, the 12 v. from the charger will be reduced further by 0.6 volts due to a protection diode that is connected to the charging jack. So the resultant voltage will be 11.4 volts.
The result of these problems will be that the charge will be reduced and will, in turn, reduce the usable time of the transmitter between charges.
The useful time is about 6 hours when charged through the Tx jack. I find that is plenty of time for my use.
That is increased to about 14 hours when charged by removing the battery from the Tx.
To connect the trickle charger to the battery when it is outside of the Tx case you will find it convenient to make an adapter cord like the one shown in this picture.

The two parts you need to make this adapter cord are:
A futaba servo extension
and a female barrel lead.

If want to go more high tech and don't mind spending more money a programmable charger is a good bet for charging both the NiMH cells or the LiPo battery. One benefit is that the timer will shut off as it is programmed to do, relieving you of manually disconnecting in a timely manner. Another benefit is that your batteries will probably last longer.

Here is the charger that I use.
It has three parts: AC to DC power converter - DC powered, programmable charger - and last, adapters to connect the charger to your batteries. This charger will charge many types of batteries.
Here are links to the three parts.

AC to DC power converter

Programmable Charger

Charging Harness

This charging harness will obviously fit many applications - the one barrel connector that has a center + pin is the one we want here.
You might be able to find or make a cheaper adapter specifically for this application.

Those three items will cost you about $40 plus shipping.
Ironically, that is more than you paid for the radio
Last edited by Kokopeli; Apr 15, 2017 at 07:03 AM.
May 19, 2009, 09:03 PM
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Post #4 Guide to other posts and other threads

Now, for the more adventuresome, I will point you to places that you can find information you will need to get your hands dirty with soldering and all that stuff. The long thread that contains most information of importance to you is here [Careful - it also contains lots of information that applies, also, to some other related radios and does not apply to your radio]
It's up to over 5000 posts up to Jan. 2016!

You will want to read the rest of this thread, as well as the long, more diverse thread.
You might want to start with this post #19 and then come back to post #5.
to get all the questions answered that are posed below

Here is a link to a servo that is well matched with this Tx for the control of sailboat sails.

************************************************** ***********
What is that connector on the back of the case that is labeled TRAINER.

Beware: These pin assignments are ONLY for the 4 channel radio and match the pin numbers shown on the schematic of the logic board.

The jack labeled TRAINER may be used to connect this Tx to another Tx so that this radio acts as a control for a student and the other radio acts as a control for an instructor. But not the other way around since this Tx doesn't have a switch to pass control to another Tx.

Or the TRAINER jack may be used to connect to a computer that is running a flight simulator program.

The cables to do these two tasks are available from many Chinese sources. But since those sources, many on eBay, don't usually last long you may find the most stable source is Hobby King.
The above cable set will connect your Tx to the USB input on your computer for use with a simulator. No driver software is needed because the cable has a microcontroller in it that makes your computer think it is seeing a standard game controller.
To use this cable as a trainer connection you must supply a cable that matches the jack on the instructor's Tx. For many radios that would be just a 3.5 mm audio jack. In that case you only need a cable that has 3.5 mm jacks at both ends - that is just a standard computer audio cable.
If you prefer to make your own cables you will find that an S-vidio cable fits the TRAINER jack and is therefore a good starting point for making an appropriate cable.

There are many flight simulator programs available.
Unfortunately, the free program, FMS, that used to be available for most operating systems is no longer being maintained. I hope it returns someday.
All of the other programs that I am aware of only run on Windows. (sigh)
An almost free program, ClearView, seems to be the simplest and cheapest.

Some have reduced the number of battery cells from eight to four.
After all this new technology really needs only 5 volts to operate, so why not.
It seems like the redesign for the new technology, in this case, ignored the possibility of using a lower voltage.
Most of this work was done by JMP_blackfoot
Here are some links he posted on the longer thread:
"Another possibility is to run the transmitter off 4 cells NimH:
Messages in the the thread
772 and
783. "
This solution uses a four cell NiMH battery pack and adjusts the warning light threshold, appropriately.
You may see the whole process he went through to arrive at his final solution, or just start at message 783.
Very interesting.
Modifying the voltage thresholds for the battery charge status LEDs:
Since you may be using rechargeable batteries (or even just 4 batteries) you might want to modify the voltage thresholds for your chosen batteries to allow the lights to indicate more appropriate voltage levels .
Start your search here:
Or if you plan to use a 2s LiPO battery here is a link to the solution to message #284 in this thread:

Throttle stick mods:
If you want to move the throttle stick from the left to the right or vice versa (Mode 2 to Mode 1) you can learn to do it here.
Look at post #19 again.

If you want to increase the physical travel of the throttle stick (I need it for the sail control of my sail boats)
Look at message #119 for version #1
and post #350 for version #2.

Here is a YouTube video that I made to help with the modification:
TxMod (12 min 36 sec)

Maybe you have an old one or two thousand dollar radio that "walks, talks, and crawls on it belly like a reptile" but is NOT 2.4 GHz - don't despair - here is lots of great information on how to buy this cheap radio - take the 2.4 GHz transmitting module out of it - and install it into your super radio. Using the expensive computerized features of your old radio allows you to have the 2.4 GHz advantage of MUCH less hassle with interference and having your radio impounded at the flying field.
Idiot's guide to hacking these radios:
Schematic of logic board.
Low res from US Patent Office (no longer available on their website)

Spec sheets for the installed microcontroller - in PDF format.
Last edited by Kokopeli; Apr 14, 2017 at 08:27 AM.
May 19, 2009, 10:07 PM
Registered User
earlwb's Avatar
We discussed the 4 channel HK radio in this thread. Later the thread wound up being mostly about the Turborix 6 channel. But we did go into a lot of detail on the HK 4 channel still. Schematics too.
May 19, 2009, 11:01 PM
Deletedfor proving Nauga wrong
The TX's green LED meaning >9.3 v means it would be on for the full USEFUL charge of 8 cell NiCd/NiMh. 8 NiCd/NiMh cells will peak about 11 volts. They will hold OVER the "nominal" 1.2 v for most of the useful charge.

If using NiCd/NiMh and the green LED goes out... land immediately, you won't have long left before you have just a red LED, rapidly followed by non-functioning controls.

The green LED going out when using Alkalines would = prepare for impact. To get that low with 8 Alkalines means they are DEAD.
May 20, 2009, 08:00 AM
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Kokopeli's Avatar

User Manual?

Originally Posted by earlwb
We discussed the 4 channel HK radio in this thread. Later the thread wound up being mostly about the Turborix 6 channel. But we did go into a lot of detail on the HK 4 channel still. Schematics too.
Thanks earlwb:
It is my hope that those who delve into this above mentioned thread will bring all the info that they find that is SPECIFIC AND BASIC to the use of this radio set to this thread.
I believe that this thread would be quite useful to those of us who don't understand many of the posts on the other thread - it seems to be hard to separate out the basic info from the other radio when one does not understand the highly technical nature of what is being discussed there.
I guess I could state that more simply if I said:
I hope this thread will become a useful user manual for what looks like a low level radio that is a breakthrough in price (albeit, shipped with absolutely no manual )

Thanks, also to fhhuber for the useful info.
Last edited by Kokopeli; May 20, 2009 at 08:34 AM.
May 20, 2009, 08:31 AM
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Mystery binding plug? (Ver. #1 only)

All four of my receivers (one with the Tx and three extras) came with the binding plugs shown in the picture.
The female plug is what I expected.
But, with its leads intertwined with the female plug, a male plug of the Futaba shape was included.
I don't know what this is supposed to be used for. I can only assume that in a low cost product like this the designer would not spend money on something that was not useful.
Can anyone tell me what its intended use might be? UPDATE - SEE MESSAGE #9
Last edited by Kokopeli; Feb 22, 2016 at 07:09 PM.
May 20, 2009, 08:59 AM
Deletedfor proving Nauga wrong
JR/Spektrum also supplies the 2 styles of bind plugs with thier 7 and 9 ch 2.4 ghz RXs.

The second plug is for use with the heavy duty switch being plugged intot the batt-bind port. The 3rd wire IS active on this switch. Thus you can plug in to bind via the charge port.
May 20, 2009, 10:25 AM
Registered User
crucial's Avatar
Has anyone figured out if this can be used with FMS or another sim using the trainer port?
May 20, 2009, 10:38 AM
Deletedfor proving Nauga wrong
The Art-Tech equivilent (might be relabel of the same radio...) has a cord available to plug into the computer USB port and will operate a flight sim.
May 20, 2009, 10:42 AM
Curiouser and curiouser
Kokopeli's Avatar
Originally Posted by crucial
Has anyone figured out if this can be used with FMS or another sim using the trainer port?
Good questiion, crucial!
HobbyKing has two USB cables available.
They sell them for programming the 6 channel radio.
As far as we know, the 4 channel radio is not programmable. The six channel radio seems to require programming because it does not have reversing switches on the case.
Could it be possible that these cables will provide the connection through the "TRAINER" port that will allow us to use simulator software.
Maybe our electronic savvy friends who have hacked this radio will have some idea if it is possible, by looking at the schematics.
OR maybe they have a cable and can try it out, eh?
Last edited by Kokopeli; Feb 21, 2012 at 10:20 PM.
May 20, 2009, 11:06 AM
Registered User
madmike8's Avatar
Originally Posted by fhhuber506771
The green LED going out when using Alkalines would = prepare for impact. To get that low with 8 Alkalines means they are DEAD.

I fly my Alkaline Batteries till the red flashing light comes on... As many sets as I have put through the transmitter, I'd say it's no fluke... And the Orange light last about as long as the green light... not that I really timed it... but seems that way to me...
May 20, 2009, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by fhhuber506771
The Art-Tech equivilent (might be relabel of the same radio...) has a cord available to plug into the computer USB port and will operate a flight sim.
A search of the Art-Tech site only revealed a six channel programmable 2.4 GHz radio.
Could you give me a link to info on the radio you are referring to, please.
May 20, 2009, 12:39 PM
Registered User

Works with Phoenix

Originally Posted by crucial
Has anyone figured out if this can be used with FMS or another sim using the trainer port?
Works fine with Phoenix. I'm using the Turborix branded 6-channel transmitter and sim cable from The sim cable plugs into the trainer port (S-video and Esky are the same plug I believe) and the Phoenix dongle plugs into the sim cable. Search for "turborix sim cable"

The included programming cable (different from the sim cable) is probably equivalent to the HK-TR6A Win2000/XP cable. It works fine with Vista using the right driver. Google mycoolheli and I think you'll find it.

My problem is that I have not yet learned to set the endpoints and servo directions and throttle curves and what-not for the different models in Phoenix. The program used to configure those settings, t6config.exe, seems to work just fine. Once I get that all sorted out I'm going to try to use the transmitter with FSX.

I would be a very happy camper if someone could point me toward a t6config.exe config file for a T-rex 450.
Last edited by nuttymango; May 20, 2009 at 12:52 PM.

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