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Apr 15, 2009, 10:05 AM
kalteisen.com
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Build Log

KX2 45" Scratch build and kit build


Time to get going on this plane. I'm offering it as a free plans download for you scratch builders and full or short kits.

Free plans:
http://kalteisen.com/downloads.html

Kits:
http://kalteisen.com/kx2_45.html

Printed plans for sale if you have problems printing them:
http://kalteisen.com/kx2_45.html

Specs
--------------------------
Length: 53 in
Span: 45 in
Area: 684.25 sq in
RTF Weight: 45oz-55oz (mine is 48oz)
Motor: Something like a Hacker a-30-10xl, 2814T/820
Battery: 3cell-4cell 2200-3500mah LiPo
Servos: 4 HS-81mg, 85mg or 65's. I'm running 4 HS-81mg's.

If scratch building you need this stuff to complete the build:
- 1/4x1/4x36 balsa stick - 17
- 1/8x1/4x36 balsa stick - 10
- 1/16x4x36 sheet - 7
- 1/8x1/4x36 hardwood stick - 1
- 1/4" plywood landing gear plate - 1

Additional balsa for cutting out the parts to get what's basically in the kit. This is used to cut out what is laser cut in the kits:
1 - 1/16x6x24 plywood
1 - 1/8x6x24 plywood
5 - 1/8x4x24 balsa
1 - 1/4x4x24 balsa

Misc stuff that's needed:
1 - Wingtube sleeve is .505 from kitebuilder.com Part #RET50564
1 - Wingtube from kitebuilder.com Part #RET414
2 - 1/4" blind nuts. Got mine at Lowes
2 - 1/4" nylon bolts. got mine at Lowes
1 - 1" wide 1/8" thick aluminum bar for landing gear. Got mine at Lowes. Can use any "40" sized aluminum or fiberglass gear.

My prototype is running a Torque 2814T/820 on 3 cells. It's OK, but that motor really needs 4 cells. I'm at 48oz RTF with that setup. The plane is extremely forgiving in the air. You really have to work at it to get it to tip stall. I can kick full rudder and make it turn on a dime without wanting to drop out. Harriers are virtually wing-rock free and hovers are simple and lock in. I find it easier to hover than any of my Skeeter profiles. Harriers are about the same as a Skeeter profile. Knife edge is great. I found no tendency to want to tuck or pull.

It flies light as a feather. You can chop the power and it will not drop like a rock. You have plenty of time to decide what you want to do next. It's agile, yet tame at the same time. If you keep it on low rates you have a very fun aerobatic sport plane. You put it on high rates and you have a full all-out 3D monster.

For a long time people have asked for a scratch build and kit from me that was not a profile, yet they wanted it to fly like one of my profiles. This is it.

Q
Last edited by Quicker; Apr 24, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
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Apr 15, 2009, 10:08 AM
kalteisen.com
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First up let's build the fuse.

If you are scratch building I recommend printing out the file with the parts and using 3m Super 77 spray glue to lightly tack the printed parts on the sheets of wood and cutting them out on a band saw. You can had cut them if you don't have a saw.

Lay out the plans, cover with you favorite cover. I use wax paper. Start cutting sticks and gluing.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:09 AM
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At this point, none of the special cut parts have been glued in, just the sticks. You will notice on the plans it details where you need to make special cuts in the sticks. I tried to detail everything on the printed plans.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:13 AM
Registered User
Been waiting on this one, thanks Q.

Looked at the kit contents on your site. Am I correct that if purchasing either the full or short kit that the builder needs to supply his own wing tube and sleeve?
Apr 15, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Now, start gluing in the special cut parts. This can be tricky. You are building 2 sides, really 2 profiles that get glued together later to make the triangle "A FRAME" fuse. The special parts are cut from 1/8 balsa, but the fuse sticks are 1/4. The parts are glued in flush to the OUTSIDE of that fuse side, so on the right fuse side they are flush to the right side and on the left fuse side they are flush to the left side of the profile. Understand? If you do not do this you will have a problem where these parts are not flush to the outside of the fuse structure. The wing will not have a solid piece to butt up against.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinceL
Been waiting on this one, thanks Q.

Looked at the kit contents on your site. Am I correct that if purchasing either the full or short kit that the builder needs to supply his own wing tube and sleeve?

Oops. Nope, both kits include the fiberglass tubes.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:21 AM
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After you get both sides built it's time to glue them together. A this point you should have cut out the plywood battery tray. It becomes the main center part that forms the correct triangle form for the structure. Glue a 1/4" stick to the tail of one of the fuse sides to make a solid point for the rudder hinges and then glue the plywood battery try to that same fuse side. When the glue is set attach the other fuse side and glue.

Now, glue in the firewall.

On the 1/4" plywood landing gear plate drill 2 holes for the blind nuts and pop them in with a hammer. Glue in the the landing gear plate with 30 minute epoxy or poly glue. NO CA!!!! CA will fail.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:23 AM
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Now, as the pics in the previous post show start gluing in the cross pieces of 1/4" sticks. If your main long balsa fuse sticks are soft you will need to add more cross bracing than shown. When covering you run the risk of the covering warping the long fuse sticks if they are too soft and not braced well enough.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:25 AM
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Cut out the 1/16th ply parts for the tail. These provide a solid mount for the VStab and tail wheel. The sticks are notched for a flush install.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:29 AM
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The nose top and bottom are sheeted with 1/16th balsa. The bottom is sheeted all the way back to the plywood landing gear plate. The canopy top is sheeted with 1/16th balsa.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:31 AM
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Take the larger fiberglass tube (sleeve) and cut a section to fit in the fuse. Glue in with CA or epoxy. Also, note the plywood disks over the bolt-hole. These provide some more structure for the holes that the nylon bolts will go through to hold the wings on.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:36 AM
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The next things up are the tail feathers. These are a pretty simple, straight forward stick build that's detailed on the printed plans. The HStab does have some cut 1/4" balsa, but the rest is all stick. Simple cut to the proper length and glue them in place. You guys did this in your Skeeter builds. Same thing, just bigger.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:44 AM
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OK, now the wings. These require the most cutting of parts. You have LE, spar, TE and ribs to cut out. When I scratch build I tack the paper templates to the wood with spray glue and cut them out on the band saw.

When all the parts are cut out you can start the assembly.

Like a Skeeter, lay out the parts and slide them together. Also, cut the sleeve tube and slide that in.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:46 AM
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These pics also show the 1.8x1/4 hardwood servo mount rails and the 1/4" hardwood dowel pegs that hold the wing in position on the fuse.

Q
Apr 15, 2009, 10:47 AM
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When building the wing you will notice that the LE extends past the leading edge of the ribs. This is correct. It provides a shelf for the sheeting to glue to. After it's sheeted you will sand this down.

Q


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