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Jun 07, 2009, 04:48 AM
Limey Jeff
Jeff Glasser's Avatar
Nice touch Phil with adding a hint of yellow to the O.D. When spraying my jeep, I discovered that there is'nt any green in the mixing formula. ( we had a paint mixing scheme in the bodyshop, handy, was'nt it! ) It's made up from mostly yellow, then blue (turns it green) orange, white, and black. "not a lot of people know that" (apologies to Michael Cain)

Jeff
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Jun 08, 2009, 06:40 PM
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WTFLYR's Avatar
Looks stunning Phil. Looked really good with the unpainted silver covering too, although I haven't seen them in silver. Just took my Guillows 190 out a few days back, after adding ailerons. These little Guillows warbirds can fly quite well.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7#post12401687
I'll have to take the Spitfire out again, to take some video. Looks like we've pretty much covered flying all the warbirds in this series, between yourself, Mark, and I.
Jun 08, 2009, 08:01 PM
Registerd Beaver
Smokin' Beaver's Avatar

Progress pics


"Not a lot of people know that" (Michael Caine) is that from the BoB movie behind the scenes part? Interesting stuff though.

Yes Bill, must be time for Guillow's to release a new one now - what do you think?
Speaking of which, I crashed my Catalina on Sunday - pilot error entirely.
Thought I was going to hit trees on take-off and backed the gas off.
She spun in from 20'.
wrote off the nose but it's repairable. bloody idiot....


Anyway, the P-40 is just about done, i did some detailing last night & under coated the window frames.
These are done in aluminium tape, cut into strips and stuck into position. the tape is for hot ducting insulation that wraps around gas turbine exhausts.
Is extremely sticky and get better as it gets hotter.
So just a last spray to blend the dark green to the rest of the plane & she's away.
Oh and I'll paint on some clear WBPU varnish to the chin to avoid losing too much paint on the belly landings.
But that's why I did silver so it looks realistic if it does come off.
Some of the panel lines removed paint as I drew them on, but this also adds good effect. they are just done in HB pencil.
I love the OD paint - the more you handle it, the more realistic it gets.

Oh, also the wheel legs & hubs to go on. these will be a piece of 1/8" aluminium rod bent to shape & a card disc painted grey for the hub.

Then we're off hunting for Zekes....
Jun 08, 2009, 10:14 PM
Registered User
Rekitter's Avatar
Wow Phil.. the P-40 looks very nice. The sheeting and finishing details look flawless and you did an outstanding paint job. Just sitting there it looks like it should be a great flyer! Very nice work.

Alex
Jun 08, 2009, 11:43 PM
Suspended Account
WTFLYR's Avatar
Phil I still have the nose glass for the Guillows PBY, since I built mine as a post war, due to locating the battery hatch there. You can have it if you want it.
Jun 09, 2009, 05:49 AM
Limey Jeff
Jeff Glasser's Avatar
Anyone doing an impression of Michael Caine will always tell an anecdote in his voice, and end it with "and not a lot of people know that" ( which he never actually said, they same as "play it again Sam" from Casa Blanca, was'nt said. )
There, that was interesting was'nt it!

P.40 looking great Phil, you're right about Olive drab, it does mark easily, but this only adds to the scale realism of the model.

Sad about your Catalina, I do hope it gets repaired o.k.

Jeff
Jun 09, 2009, 08:12 AM
MPP
MPP
In Unusual Attitude Recovery
MPP's Avatar
That sure is a fantastic finish job Phil. I think the "Zeke" is scared to come and play from the looks of the DH-4 Veteran at the stick. We will need to see her in color on the next video. Well done!

Mark
Oct 09, 2012, 07:55 PM
Registered User
how much washout did you add in on the wing tips? Im trying to make mine similar to yours, except it will not be completeley sheeted. A good portion will though.
Oct 10, 2012, 04:29 PM
Registerd Beaver
Smokin' Beaver's Avatar
Hi,
At the TE of the outer rib was raised just a touch under under 1/8" (2.5mm)

- Phil
Jul 20, 2013, 02:01 PM
Registered User
Hey Smokin'!

I'm new to this whole thing and could use some much needed guidance. I have this Guillows Warhawk kit and want to build it to fly. I've been reading through this blog and trying to get as much information as I could from it. I have already started ordering parts for the kit to convert it to RC. Do you have a list of the parts or anything that you would change? Any help would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you.
Jul 20, 2013, 02:08 PM
Fly and let Fly!
Cocg's Avatar
I screwed up with too much dihedral.. Any thing to expect of characteristics Name: goldenhawk rtail 5.jpg
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Description: Name: Goldenhawk rtail 3.jpg
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Description: before maiden of this? BTW .. No picking.. There is plenty wrong.. Worked with what I already had..
Jul 20, 2013, 07:24 PM
Registerd Beaver
Smokin' Beaver's Avatar
whodgson,
I presume you have the 400 series kit which is ~ 27"?

1) Do I have a list of the parts I'd change - Do you mean from the kit parts? No, the kits parts will work fine but you can buy better quality and lighter balsa wood and cut you own parts for aft-of-CG components.
2) I don't use the U/C supplied - I belly land all of mine (except the P-51)
3) I don't use the spinner - you can guy good aftermarket spinners that work well for the P-40s required shape
4) Don't install the rubber band anchor mounts in the rear fuselage - not required for r/c

As for mods,
1) I think I put in about 1.25" dihedral to each wing (but refer to the build it should say)
2) Lower the front (LE) of the main wing and raise it's rear end so the underside of the main wing airfoil is parallel to the tail wing. A very, very small amount of 'up' at the LE is OK.
You can also alternatively adjust the rear tail plane to match the main wing.
3) Put as much of your r/c gear ahead of the CG
4) the rear formers can have 70% of their mass reduced as they are designed to withstand a massive rubber band trying to pull/crush them when the rubber motor is fully wound up.
5) Side keels also can be reduced in size.
6) Always make sure you set the geometry up correctly. In other words port Main wing tip to port stabilizer wing tip measurement must be exactly equal on both sides.
Otherwise when you pull an 'UP' maneuver the plane will roll as it pulls up.
7) Build the rear of the model as light as you can.
Remember, the tail of an aircraft performs the same function as a feather on an arrow. It's role is to keep the front of the plane pointing forward. You don't need a lot of structure to keep it in the right place - rarely does a plane hit anything tail-first, requiring structural strength to withstand it.
8) If you're learning to fly an aileron model, to save you money you can build a test plane in 1/4" balsa sheet or depron foam.

Good luck!


- Phil
Jul 20, 2013, 07:56 PM
Registerd Beaver
Smokin' Beaver's Avatar
Cocg
On the contrary - it looks awesome!

Hard to tell but the first place I look is geometry and CG location.
From the kit the CG for control line is where I work to and then bring it another 1/4" further forward for a maiden.

An old rule of thumb;
" An aircraft with a too forward CG will fly poorly - an aircraft with a too rearward CG will fly once"

I can't tell if you have rudder or not. with strong dihedral, a rudder works better than ailerons. It will fly fine but in a banking turn it will fight you to come back to level, probably more evident in a right turn (do to prop torque combining with dihedral).

Rolls be a bit loopy and it will not really like inverted flight. It will glide well coming in to land.
Presuming you can fly an aileron control, low wing monoplane and CG is correct, power is good and geometry true, it will certainly get up and stay flying.

The design is tried and true. Guillow's is not the most efficiently designed P-40 but is certainly capable of good flight. I still fly mine and it is still an awesome model to watch going around.
With my power setup, I do have to 'fly' the plane. Keep away from stall speeds and fly it like a plane. I can't do unlimited vertical, prop-hanging or 3D stunt rubbish. It really is a true WW2 r/c model, pilots plane.

I like to hand launch and have now got this 100% sorted. Toss it in the air at 45 degrees (between 10 o'clock and 11 o'clock) and throw it like I would if it were a javelin.
I get lots of time to get my hand back on the sticks and maximum distance/height to catch her if something goes wrong (wind gust, dodgy battery, bad geometry, poorly trimmed etc)

Hope that helps?

Good luck - Phil
Jul 21, 2013, 12:41 AM
Registered User
Hey Phil,

First of all let me say that your plane looks amazing! And thanks for all the good advice.

Yes I have the 27 7/8 kit #405. As far as parts I was referring more to the electronics, If you have a list of what all you installed and if you were to change anything what would it be. I'm going to try to build this as close to I can to yours because I have never done this before and I don't really know what I am doing... It just sounds like a lot of fun!!!

So far I have the Great Planes spinner and the 7X4 SF Prop you mentioned ordered along with 3 towerpro 9g servos. That is it. I don't have the motor, esc, or receiver quite figured out yet.

As far as other random questions, are you using the iron on plastic from hobbyking? What size balsa are you using to cover? What size are you using for stringers?

Thanks in advance! Sorry if its any trouble!
Jul 23, 2013, 09:44 AM
Fly and let Fly!
Cocg's Avatar
Well, Maiden went well.. A bit pilot error , flew too slow in the wind and in a turn... Spiraled in, Broke wing., Name: IMGP0843_edited-1.jpg
Views: 177
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Description: tore out landing gear snapped rudder.. (did get about 4 min. flight though) .. Fixed and got her up again with no issues.. Surprising floaty landing .. 2s power.. Needed a little left Aileron trim. Quite controllable.. Got on the golf course before the golfers and after the sprinklers.!
Straight up scale take off..!! All good now..!


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