Need help with motor instructions - QRP HYPER 400 6V Motors w/timing advance - RC Groups
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Mar 24, 2003, 04:52 AM
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Peter Young's Avatar

Need help with motor instructions - QRP HYPER 400 6V Motors w/timing advance

Hi all

I just received a QRP HYPER 400 6V Motors w/timing advance
(reverse) for my combat wing from Aircraft World:

The motor came with Japanese instructions, and I'm unsure how to connect it up. In particular it came with five capacitors, and I have no idea which one(s) to use.

I'll post the Japanese instructions in case someone can translate for me.

Many thanks

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Mar 24, 2003, 04:57 AM
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Peter Young's Avatar

page 1 of instructions

page 1
Mar 24, 2003, 04:59 AM
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Peter Young's Avatar
here's page 2
Mar 24, 2003, 09:34 AM
Pack Rat
KLH's Avatar
Sorry can't read Japanese. However I can tell you that I've used several of these motors from Dave and they all come with 5 capacitors, but I only use 3. I solder 1 cap each between both the + and - leads from the end ball of the motor to the outer case of the motor and a third cap directly between the + and - leads. Take a look at the pic in the instructions it shows how 2 of the caps get placed between the leads and the case. The third cap which I don't see in the instructions just gets soldered between the leads.
What I've tried to describe is pretty much standard practice with small brushed motors. If you have never done it before I'm sure it sounds strange especially a cap soldered directly between the + and - leads. The purpose of the caps is to help reduce the elec noise from the motors thus reducing the chance of elec interference to the receiver in your plane.
A lot of motors come with the caps already soldered in place more or less as I've described above and some come with caps pre installed inside the case where they aren't visible.
I've seen people fly planes with out caps soldered in place with no problems, but if its my planes I use them.
Good luck with it. Those are good little motors that Dave sells.

Mar 24, 2003, 09:42 AM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
I am 99.9% sure that these motors come with caps inside - so the only thing I do is solder the cap between "+" and "-" terminals. I have used 3 or 4 of these motors and have not had any issue with noise.

Mar 24, 2003, 03:38 PM
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Peter Young's Avatar
Thanks Mike and Kern

I got an e-mail from Aircraft World which helps to explain things. I'd still appreciate a translation if anyone can do one for me.

btw - can someone explain how to "insulate these with the supplied tube"? The caps come with a little plastic tube - how do I use this?

Many thanks




We don't have English instructions, but the diagram tells it all, really. Here's an interpretation:

QRP recommends using two of the caps across the +/- poles (insulate these with the supplied tube), and one each from pole to case. So you have one extra.

Attach the (+) wire from the ESC to the red dot for "Normal" rotation motors

The (-) wire from the ESC to the red dot for "Reverse" rotation QRP motors.


AC Staff"
Last edited by Peter Young; Mar 24, 2003 at 03:43 PM.
Mar 24, 2003, 04:20 PM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar

Just cut a small piece of the tubing so that it covers all of the exposed wire on the capacitor (right from it's base) to the +,- terminals. Just leave enough exposed wire to solder to the terminals. The goal here is to aviod a metal object contacting the exposed wires on the capacitor and causing a short.

Mar 24, 2003, 06:18 PM
Electric Airplane Junkie
bhchan's Avatar
loosely translated.
Last edited by bhchan; Mar 24, 2003 at 06:28 PM.
Mar 24, 2003, 10:10 PM
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pda4you's Avatar
Too funny!
Mar 25, 2003, 03:28 AM
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Peter Young's Avatar
It works for me - thanks bhchan
Mar 25, 2003, 11:56 AM
Peter Mar's Avatar
I have run a Hyper 400 with NO caps installed with a Cosmotech gearbox. Jeti JES180 and Rondo 18 ESC.

No problems with interference.

This was suggested by Alex Larionov (Starflight). I was a bit skeptical. However, I was not interested in soldering 3 caps to the can. So I gave it a try without any.

Even when climbing high with my 1.8m glider, I have no control difficulties in a typical RC field environment.
Mar 25, 2003, 11:59 PM
Registered User
The 1st page mentions that 2 caps are spares !
It also mentions that in the case that the standard usage with 3 caps
does not cut the noise enough sometimes adding the spare caps in
parallel with the cap which is located between the two motor terminals

THe caps are non-polarized and the value is 104, which means
10 x 10e-12 x 1e4=0.1uF

THe other pages concern break in etc
Mar 26, 2003, 05:10 AM
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Peter Young's Avatar
epkoncept - what do the break-in instructions say? I'd normally tape together a couple of D-cell alkalines in series, and run them flat. Will that be ok?

Mar 26, 2003, 10:42 AM
Registered User

break in


Ok, it mentions to break it in with only 1 nicad and no propellor. The next paragraph mentions that it can be run in with an esc, until the auto low voltage cut off turns on. (It did not explicitly mention the esc setting, but I assume it is implied that it was set to the lowest speed. ) It then mentions that the break in should be monitored so that the "can " temp does not go higher than the temp of "hot water", I believe that is roughly about 50C. When the motor gets hot, please stop, let it cool and then continue.

It also mentions in the next paragraph that the motor should be operated gently for the first few flights, ie no quick changes in throttle. (I guess that that is to reduce the peak current, ie even braking can generate high brush currents.

Mar 26, 2003, 12:44 PM
Registered User

more clarification

3. is motor break in
1 Nicad and no prop
check temp, warm is fine.
can use cooling fan

4. is motor break in while flying.
fly gently for firs few flights

5. motor cooling
make adequate cooling holtes

motor spec
35 turn 15degree advance, either for or rev

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