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Oct 08, 2012, 07:07 AM
Registered User
Hey Guys,
Thanks for the input and great info.
Unfortunately, our winters are not all that short.
Thanks again,
TB
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Oct 10, 2012, 10:49 AM
Registered User
Hi All,

Has anyone installed a Hacker A60-6XS on this plane. I'm struggling with mounting the motor on the existing firewall.
I'd sincerely appreciate any assistance.

al
Oct 10, 2012, 12:04 PM
daedalusrobert's Avatar
1/7th scale motor and 2.5" spinner arrived today!
Oct 10, 2012, 04:22 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rossaer
Hi All,

Has anyone installed a Hacker A60-6XS on this plane. I'm struggling with mounting the motor on the existing firewall.
I'd sincerely appreciate any assistance.

al
What kind of problem are you having?

SteveT
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Oct 10, 2012, 05:00 PM
Registered User
Hey Steve,
The holes in the supplied motor mount from Hacker do not line up with the already drilled holes in the firewall. Also the installed Blind Nuts are mounted on a little round piece of wood and they are well and truly adhered to the back of the firewall. I have tried to knock them off but I'm fearful of damaging the firewall if I apply too much pressure.
Without being able to remove the Blind Nuts there is no flat surface to redrill and attach new Blind Nuts. I tried fabricating an "overlay" firewall to place on top of the original one and drill new holes in it to mount the motor and then use the exisiting Blind Nuts to mount the overlay firewall to the original firewall. But then I ran into the problem of there not being enough clearence for the mounting screws to not hit the motor when trying to screw it all together.
I'm not clever enough to get past this on my own unless I have an "ahh hah" moment.
I think I just may go with the recommended motor or Hacker equal. I know a Hacker A50-12 mounting holes will line up.
Any suggestions?
al
Oct 10, 2012, 05:12 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Removing a blind nut is normally fairly easy....first, screw a bolt into the blind nut, then use a soldering iron to heat the screw/blind nut up to soften the adhesive holding the nut in. Then quickly tap it with a small hammer and it should come right out. Once you get the blind nut out, then use acetone or CA debonder (the best debonder made is Golden West "Super Solvent" to remove the doublers on the back of the firewall.

If you like you can plug the holes then re-drill or just re-drill the holes in the appropriate place. If you need to, and have the room, you can also rotate the mount, so that the holes are not as close to the original holes.

SteveT
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Oct 10, 2012, 06:27 PM
Registered User
Hi Steve,

I'll give the Soldering Iron method a try. If I can get the existing blind nuts and the little round doublers off of the back of the firewall I think i would be able to work out the motor mounting after that. There are enough holes already in the exisiting firewall to make me concerned about integrity should I drill too many more holes in the thing.
Thanks for the tips!!!

al
Oct 10, 2012, 07:10 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rossaer
Hi Steve,

I'll give the Soldering Iron method a try. If I can get the existing blind nuts and the little round doublers off of the back of the firewall I think i would be able to work out the motor mounting after that. There are enough holes already in the exisiting firewall to make me concerned about integrity should I drill too many more holes in the thing.
Thanks for the tips!!!

al
No problem....

SteveT
Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Oct 13, 2012, 06:02 AM
Registered User

At the risk of being burned at the stake


At the risk of being burned at the stake:

Has anyone tried putting a nitro engine in this plane?

I love bi-planes and love four strokes. This plane seems like it would be a wonderful scale four stroker.

I am not looking for all out vertical fying so I am thinking a Saito 100 or Saito 125 ??
Oct 13, 2012, 06:12 AM
Registered User
My concern would be the airframe won't stand up to the vibration. A lot of reinforcment in a nitro model you don't normally find in a model built from the ground up to be electric...Pete M
Oct 13, 2012, 06:22 AM
Registered User

Concern of mine also


I also a bit concern about the vibration. The other alternative is if I could fit it the it under the cowl, would be a magnum 160 twin on soft mounts. Very low vibration from that set up, but a extra pund of weight. However, considering the plane is built light that might work. Can you tell me what the inside diameter of the cowl is ?? thank you
Oct 13, 2012, 06:33 AM
Registered User
The cowl has an inside diameter of 8 5/8 inches. But if you have not seen the fuse motor area, you should realize you will probably have to completely rebuild the front end. Send me your email address in a pm and I will send you a picture of it so you can see what I mean...Pete M
Oct 13, 2012, 02:32 PM
Use the 4S Luke
feathermerchant's Avatar
I think it would hold up fine. 3DHS has several gas/electric capable planes.
Oct 13, 2012, 07:23 PM
Registered User
It is very doable. Just cut the motor box off at the fuse and construct a new motor housing. Check out Pilot-RC for idea.

http://www.pilot-rc.com/Upload/30496376.JPG
Oct 13, 2012, 07:57 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
SteveT.'s Avatar
If the paint on the cowling is anything like the paint on some 3DHS planes, it wouldn't take the alcohol in the fuel...

SteveT
Latest blog entry: My hangar...


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