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Mar 31, 2009, 09:19 PM
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Great glass job! Who is your supplier for the 2.45 oz. glass? I bought 2oz. hobbico cloth for my 16' hydro, but did'nt use it because I could'nt get it to totally disappear when wet. I later tried .73 oz. from aerospace composites with much better results...
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Mar 31, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Looking great, Pat!
Apr 01, 2009, 02:28 PM
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supercubman's Avatar
Pat, Looks great!!

I know nothing about glassing, any chance of a short tutorial? I have only seen the end result on boats and planes, but never seen the process.

I have a set of plans for a full size bonanza.

Trey
Apr 01, 2009, 02:36 PM
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P_J_Glor's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by supercubman
Pat, Looks great!!

I know nothing about glassing, any chance of a short tutorial? Trey
Try here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329811

Pete G.
Apr 01, 2009, 09:09 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Finishing the First Coat of Resin


Pete, Thanks for hooking up the link to the fiberglass thread. I was going to post it up but you beat me to it.

Meanwhile, I turned the boat over this morning and trimmed off the excess cloth. Then brushed a coat of unthinned resin on the fordeck planks and side boards. Will give it a day or two to cure out nicely, then wet sand the whole works and apply the second coat of resin.

PAT
Apr 02, 2009, 07:43 AM
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supercubman's Avatar
Thanks for the link Pete.

Pat, Thanks for sharing your "tricks of the trade"

Trey
Apr 03, 2009, 10:57 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP

Adding the Second Coat of Resin


The first coat of resin was sanded to prep for the second coat. When sanding the top I noticed that the resin had soaked into the grain nicely, but left some deep pitts that would require a good bit of resin to fill. Ironically, I accidentaslly stumbled into a trick that solved the problem nicely. Here's how it works;

The resin was applied to the un-fiber glassed wood deck planking and side boards with a brush, then the hull turned over to apply the second coat to the hull. The hull was left overnight, upside down, to cure. Much to my surprise, when I turned it over this morning, the resin on top was nearly level, and all the pitts were GONE! Ain't gravity great!

Anyhow, thought I'd share that "happy accident" in case others out there had encountered the same problem and not found a better way to handle it yet.

PAT
Apr 07, 2009, 06:11 PM
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
graphixman's Avatar
Very very nice looking boat Pat. I've been thinking about this CC since seeing the first photos of it.
Apr 07, 2009, 08:14 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP
Graph, Thanks, I appreciate that. Got the third coat of resin sanded through 1200 grit today, then masked the mohogany parts and sprayed the first coat of prime looking for flaws. So far so good. I think the next step will be to get the stuffing box and rudder bearing tube in. Then can start making some good visible progress again.

PAT
Apr 13, 2009, 06:02 PM
Fly It Like You Stole It.....
moparherb's Avatar

Stain


Pat, why did you pick the color of Cabot stain that you used? Is it because it is a close match to the real boat or is it just something you had laying around. The instructions seem to indicate that you use the included stain for all surfaces but yours looks really good. Thanks...moparherb
Apr 14, 2009, 07:40 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moparherb
Pat, why did you pick the color of Cabot stain that you used? Is it because it is a close match to the real boat or is it just something you had laying around. The instructions seem to indicate that you use the included stain for all surfaces but yours looks really good. Thanks...moparherb
moparherb, I've been trying several different stains over the years, and have found the Early American to be a good good choice. This is the first boat I've used it on after trying a couple of test samples and am definitely happy with the results.

Meanwhile, the third coat of resin is on and rough sanded through 600 grit, and the painted sections of the hull and deck are in prime. The rudder shaft is in and the slot for the prop chaft is cut out, so the next big step will be to get the motor mounted and the prop shaft glued in and faired.

More pictures will be coming soon.

PAT
Apr 17, 2009, 12:19 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP

Back in a Positive Direction


Now that the glass work is done and the first coat of prime is on it's back to the inside to get the running hear installed. The instructions suggest finishing up the trim on the hull first, but setting up the motor shaft can be a bit brutal so I opted to do that part first.

The motor mounts were set up, the slot cut into the hull for the stuffing box, then the shat was installed and glued in place. Once the intital tack had cured, the skeg was fitted and the shaft faired with a slurry of epoxy and Micro Balloons. Now that that's done, we'll go back and finish up the hull trim and prep it all up for paint.

PAT
Apr 18, 2009, 08:31 AM
GPR
GPR
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GPR's Avatar
Pat,
She is really coming along well. A beautiful building job! Backtracking just a bit, would you comment on the deck planking process a little more. Specifically, with what adhesive do you apply the styrene strips, and do you glue them to the mahogany planks, the sub deck, or both. Thanks,
Greg
Apr 18, 2009, 09:13 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Thread OP
Backtracking just a bit, would you comment on the deck planking process a little more. Specifically, with what adhesive do you apply the styrene strips, and do you glue them to the mahogany planks, the sub deck, or both. Thanks,

Greg, The deck planking and styrene strips were glued in place with medium (gap filling) Cya. The process began with the dye cut center plank, which needs to be accurately located on the deck center line.

From there, the planks were added using the end cuts from the hull planking, measuring the width of each to make sure the finished lay out was symmetrical.

PAT
Apr 18, 2009, 01:22 PM
GPR
GPR
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GPR's Avatar
Thanks, Pat.


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