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Old Feb 25, 2009, 10:54 PM
P. Tritle is offline
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Mini-Review

Dumas 1964 Chris-Craft Super Sport


At last, the Dumas 1964 20' Super Sport is available. The 1:8 scale kit was released last week and is shipping now.

I happened to be in Tucson last weekend and stopped in to see the good folks at Dumas while we were there and picked up the long awaited kit for review. Have been looking forward to this one since I saw the p-type the last time I was in town.

The model is 30" long with a 10" beam, and is built up using a nice mix of wood and plastic. The only vac-formed part in this kit is the windsheild. This time, the seat cushions made from balsa. As with all of the recent Chris-Craft offerings, the sub-planking is done with Sintra sheets, so it should build reasonably light.

The kit is complete with all the running gear, less motor, ESC and radio components. The fitting package is mostly cast metal, and includes the flag and burgee, plus a sheet of self adhesive aluminum for the bright trim and a nice set of vinyl decals.

The hull frame is of light ply, spruce, and some balsa. The ply is dye cut, plus one sheet of laser cut balsa parts and one dye cut mahogany sheet. Also included are several dye cut styrene and Syntra sheets along with the spruce, balsa, and mahogany strip wood. In all, it's an impressive box full of parts.

And finally, a general arrangement drawing, a 47 page instruction booklet, and a 19 page supplimental packet containing 84 detail drawings round out the very nice package.

After spending a couple hours reviewing the detail drawings and instructions, it's time to start gluing parts together.
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Old Feb 25, 2009, 10:57 PM
LONGBIKE is offline
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If you cant find it Build it!
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Pat ,
Are you going to let us watch you build this boat?
Old Feb 25, 2009, 11:06 PM
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Getting Started on the Hull Frame Assembly


Hull framing begins with laminating the forward keel section, and gluing the deck sheer halves together. The instructions suggest gluing the parts together with epoxy, but I opted to go with Cya. So far, so good.
Old Feb 25, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Setting the Front Frames and Forward Keel.


The deck sheer is pinned to the building board and the front 4 frames glued in place. A jig is provided to set up the proper angle of the frames in relation to the deck.
Old Feb 25, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Fitting the Remaining Formers and Butterfly Keel


The remaining formers are glued in place, again using the jig to set the angles. Once al the frames are set, the bass wood butterfly keel is fitted and glued in place.
Old Feb 25, 2009, 11:18 PM
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Almost Finishing the Basic Hull Frame Assembly


The bass wood battons are fitted glued in place next. From here, the only thing left to complete the frame is to add the Chines, which are laser cut from lite ply, and at first inspection look like they're going to fit nicely. But, that's a job for tomorrow. More then.

PAT
Old Feb 25, 2009, 11:22 PM
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Long, I'll definitely share the details of the build with lots of photos and details.

My first impression upon inspecting the kit and looking over the instructions was that this might be a bit of a tricky one to build, but after getting a good start, I think it's going to be a typical build with a few "extras" over the last two -- the 19' Racer and the Hydro. At this point I can better understand how things are done, and now it looks like it'll be a relatively easy boat to build.

PAT
Old Feb 26, 2009, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P. Tritle
Hull framing begins with laminating the forward keel section, and gluing the deck sheer halves together. The instructions suggest gluing the parts together with epoxy, but I opted to go with Cya. So far, so good.
I tack everything together with Cya. Just little dabs here and there. Then I mix up the epoxy with adhesive filler (powdered limestone), and weld it all together using a 412 syringe. Sometimes I nail everything with a penetratring epoxy, then I weld it.
Old Mar 06, 2009, 10:09 PM
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Continuing with the Basic Hull Frame Construction


The Chines are dye cut light ply, and fit nearly perfectly onto the hull assembly. A bit of trimming and beveling at the front was all that was needed as the parts are a bit oversized to allow for the bevel. The side batons are 1/8 X 1/4 spruce, and were glued in after the chines were in place.
Old Mar 06, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Adding the Sintra Sub-Planking


Have I ever mentioned that I really like this Sintra sub-planking? Between the Sintra and the light ply frames, these more recent Dumas offerings build much easier and lighter then the earlier stuff.

Anyhow, the bottom skins are just slightly over-size so alignment and gluing is easy. A small amount of trimming was required at the keel, but it was nothing that a couple of passes with a sanding block wouldn't take care of. Once the skins were trimmed, they were glued in place with Cya.
Old Mar 06, 2009, 10:20 PM
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Finnishing Up the Sub-Planking


The bottom skins were trimmed into the chines and then the side skins and transom were added. Once again, the fit was excellant, with no trimming required. After the skins were glued in place, a bead of Cya was run along the edge of each frame to secure it to the frames.

Finally, all the minor little gaps and irregularities were filled with Bondo. This part really isn't all that necessary, but this way, the sub-planking is sealed to the outside, just in case water does find a way into the hull through the outer planking.

Next step is the mahogany planking.

PAT
Old Mar 16, 2009, 12:15 PM
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Planking the Hull


Got started adding the mahogany planking on the hull. It starts at the bottom on the chine, adding planks inward toward the keel. Medium Cya is used to glue the planks in place.

From there, the planks are added working up the side, also starting at the chine. Up to this point, everything has gone together nicely, but here's where I ran into the first problem with the kit.

It turns out that only 40 planks were supplied, but it will take 52 to finish the planking with the 6 longest cut-off's used to add the center deck planking. If you have one of the first run kits, drop Dumas a line and they'll provide the extra wood.

PAT
Old Mar 16, 2009, 12:28 PM
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I have a question for you, Pat.

Whenever I use CA glue on any kind of wood, it soaks into the wood. As it should. But it creates a problem for me, when I want the wood to look nice on the outside. Because the CA has hardened, nothing else will penetrate the wood. Stain, varnish, etc will not go into the CA soaked spots. That leaves blemishes in the wood, especially when trying to stain it and varnish it.

How do you get around this? I can see the CA soaked spots on your planks right now. What is your method to recover from this and get a uniform color and finish on the wood?

Thanks!
-Tom
Old Mar 16, 2009, 12:51 PM
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RingTheBellsThatStillCanR ing
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Can't speak for Pat T, but Pat M sez:
Try not to be messy!
But also, use medium or thick CA, it won't penetrate so far, and kick it when needed, as it won't self-kick like thin CA on porous wood.

I found that the hardest place to NOT be messy was the curvy area under the flare of the bow... and luckily, this was the area where the most wood was sanded off in fairing the planking (I always get the dreaded stair-step effect there). After sanding, I had "clean" wood to stain, worked fine.


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