KYOSHO Mk 1 Lawson Marlboro Yamaha
Here is my just finished Mk1 Kyosho Yamaha (5 mins ago) refurb.
I did it as a Lawson rep , and made the decals using paint progs and a printer .
Hey Kev hope this helps when you do get a bike. Any questions no problem.
This is the set up on the bike at the moment. I find it works well for a variety of drivers / riders and conditions.
Front forks ( worn forks ) 60wt ( forks worked over see below ) new forks 40 wt
Rear shock HotBodies big bore front buggy shock 1.2 pistons 60 wt oil plus 1 cap full of Mugen 1000wt diff oil as I can't get any heavier than 60wt at lhs maybe equal to 70 to 80 wt. start with 40 and work up until you are happy. Again mine are quite worn.
Std rear spring and retainer
Approx 5mm solid bump stop ( I use two old pistons ) to stop the tyre from rubbing but get a lot more travel than std shock
Top shock mounted second hole from rear ( two holes back from std position )
I can't get HB shocks or parts anymore may have to try a different brand ( Johnny is going to try AE )
Steering damper 40wt
A MTCS blocks
Std front and rear inserts
10 tooth pinion ( will be upping the gearing to 11 tooth mainly for a little more top end, more controllable bottom end and because it's steel and lasts a long time compared to the brass std pinion ) have got a 12 and 13 to try also. Tried 11 and 12, motor still pulls well. 9 or 10 would be good for slow speed. 11 would be ok pretty much everywhere and twelve works good for high speed running with flowing track.
Steering servo std
Brake servo std
Motor std Atomik 4200kv
Front forks. Strip the forks out of the clamps and drain the oil. Remove the lower caps and pull the fork tubes and seals out. At this point I remove the fork pistons, seals and bushes and polish the shafts using a polishing wheel not sandpaper. They come up with a mirror finish. They give a lot less sticktion meaning a smoother faster ( better ) action, thats why i use fairly heavy oil. Next clean the holes for the piston screws and the screws and assemble back the seals etc. wet the seals with shock oil ( or rubber grease ) on assembly. Use plenty of locktite on the piston screws and make sure they are firmly tightened. These screws coming loose are the main reason for fork seal premature failure as the shaft slips out and the sharp edge catches and tears the seals. While my fork tubes are clean i wrap 3 or 4 layers of plumbers thread tape around the top and bottom threads. This I find allows you to leave the bottom collar slightly loose for a few runs while the seals bed in allowing smooth and free action straight away. Tighten as forks free up more and start to seep from the seals. Make sure there is no binding. The forks should move as smooth as the rear end. The top threads benifit from tape by not leaking if the o ring doesnt seal properly and it keeps the thread from being worn out. I fill my new forks with 40wt oil , pushing the shaft up and down while filling and waiting to disperse the air. I fill to the top of the fork chamber with the shaft fully compressed. With old and worn ones I use 60wt. Once filled check each fork for smooth and free action, tighten or loosen lower cap as needed. Next assemble the forks into the clamps tightening only the top two screws. Next with the front wheel in place push the front end through its full travel and release several times. There should be no sticking. Tighten the lower triple. clamp screws lightly and check again for binding. Nip up don't over tighten. Next I tighten only one axle clamp screw. I don't blueprint my forks as I find the above method works well without resorting to sandpaper. The forks are usually bedded in after a several runs I find. Oh and with the sticky forks after a big crash ( rarely happens they are just tweaked in the clamps ) this is what I do with the lower screws on the triple clamps and even one axle clamp screw loose push the forks through their range several times, they should feel smooth with no sticking. I then nip up the lower triple clamp bolts and try again. If the forks start to bind I usually just back the lower bolts of 1/4 turn. I always leave one lower axle clamp loose as well. This gives me forks that work well, are ultra smooth, last a long time between seal changes and never stick . I change the oil every 5 to 10 hrs use depending on running conditions. About every forty hours or when the forks start to leak or develop excessive slop I change the pistons, seals, and bushings and if the shafts look good re polish and reassemble. Try 60 wt oil at this point. I find it best almost always once the forks have some time on them.
Try these tips will try to get some photos when I service the new forks that came with these bikes, and also a few rear shock shots. Probably on Johnny's rcdirtbikeaction.com site. Good luck.
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