Originally Posted by feathermerchant

I think he's building a setup for his club.

That would explain it.

I still think a 24V buss would be an advantage for the guys with the higher output chargers.

Feathermercant is right - we have exchanged some emails.

Nowadays we have a 110V power rail in our club, so everybody needs his own PS and charger.

The idea is to build a 12V and 24V power rail, each one with at least 2000W.

The 24V power rail is intended for electric helis and the 12V for other guys who just charge Rx packs and small airplanes packs. Their chargers just works in 11V-18V input range.

So wiring those PSs in parallel is supposed to work?

Thanks.

Quick question for the group.

I personally don't own a LiPo charger.

What is the highest voltage most chargers accept?

I think 30 volts, for FMA PL-8 and an Icharger or two, but others will know.

It depends on the charger.

My Hyperion 720 SDuo3 accepts up to 29V.
My iCharger 208B up to 32V.

I know that iCharger 3010 handle up to 38V and the Thunder Power 1430 up to 36V.

Usually high power chargers can handle at least 28V and low power chargers at least 18V.

Best Regards.

Thanks..

What is the difference of these PSs??

-> Hp 337867-501 Hp 900w

-> Hp 364360-001 Hp 1300w

-> Hp 406421-001 Hp 900w

They are all 900W (110V) / 1300W (220V) for Proliant Dl580 and Ml570.

Can I easily power them up for standalone use???

Thanks.

Originally Posted by xandrios

Quick question for the group.

I personally don't own a LiPo charger.

What is the highest voltage most chargers accept?

I need to sell one of my 180W Hyperion Duos......

Reported

Originally Posted by SkyRaptor

What is the difference of these PSs??

-> Hp 337867-501 Hp 900w

-> Hp 364360-001 Hp 1300w

-> Hp 406421-001 Hp 900w

They are all 900W (110V) / 1300W (220V) for Proliant Dl580 and Ml570.

Can I easily power them up for standalone use???

Thanks.

They're all the same supply, just with different part numbers / spare numbers. This supply is capable of being powered up for standalone use and is the primary subject of this thread.

See post #2 for detailed instructions on how to make it work.

Noteworthy about this particular power supply is the fact that it requires a unique power cord (or soldering skills) and is extremely loud (to my ears at least).

Mark

Originally Posted by 376782

Finally after several attempts to get the supply to hold voltage with load I believe I have the answer. Instead of jumpering pins 30, 31 and 34 together just jumper 34 to 31 and tie pin 30 to +12V. So far I can now load up to 45 amps and the output drops just 100mv (12.9V to 12.8V). I do believe I will have a double gin and tonic to celebrate. I had almost given up and tossed the supply. Now I hope I can get more as I believe this is one nice compact supply capable of delivering 65 amps. I plan to series up a couple for 24V which be a piece of cake seeing as the negative is not tied to chassis ground.

Dave

Hi all, a few months ago I was struggling to keep steady 12V output under heavy load on my DPS800GB. I tried many ideas but with no success. Then I gave up and put the supply on the attic. Yesterday I came back on this thread and saw solution presented by 376782. Now all I can do is to confirm that it works for my supply as well Many thanks for all who showed interest in my problem and of course for 376782 who shared his discovery

Thanks feathermerchant,

but I was just thinking that if I could lower the UVP

of a cheap 48v server PS to around 28V, then running

it in series wouldn't be necessary.

Just a thought.

Originally Posted by extreme heli

First I would like to thank all those in this and other similar threads for the invaluable info regarding these sweet little units!

Second I would like to share for those interested in perhaps tinkering a wee bit that I have found the voltage threshold for the HP turbine cooling fans by lots of experimenting with various resistors to turn the fans as slow as possible without triping an error.

Using a 2 Watt 10 Ohm resistor spliced into the positive leads of each fan yeilds 5.55V to the fans and with pins jumped for a solid green and ready supply, produces about 1/2 the RPM at full speed as the stock unit is just in standby mode.

The trick I have found though is to leave the pins tripped in the ON position otherwise it will trip an error if just left to sit in standby, as it spins too slow in this mode and sees it as an error.

I have overloaded the unit to 1000W fed by only 120V without issue on my load rail...and a big smile Temps remained very reasonable, only really warming up when fully loaded. I only plan to use the unit mostly for light/med duty in the shop for now, so listeningn to tunes, phone, and hearing myself think is more priority. Next step up in airflow would be 2W 6.2Ohm resistor giving 6.25V to fans still a solid step down from even stock standby mode, might be considered if constantly running at max and in hotter climates.

I wanted quiet, thats what i got, take from it what you will.

Darren

Can you please tell me what you mean by "The trick I have found though is to leave the pins tripped in the ON position otherwise it will trip an error if just left to sit in standby, as it spins too slow in this mode and sees it as an error."
I have several of these supplies and really need to slow down the fans before I can use them. I have tried resistors but do trip out on low fan speed.

Thanks,

Dave

Originally Posted by Wayne Giles

I have just bought and converted an HP Power Supply DPS-600PB and it works fine. As it is difficult/impossible/expensive to obtain the mating rear connector, I have soldered a couple of 4mm test sockets between the blades of the existing connector which makes a convenient termination.
The extra low Z capacitor is only to reduce pk - pk ripple to about 60mV at full load and not strictly necessary.
BTW I think the only real ground pin is pin 8 which pins 6 and 10 should be commoned to in order to enable the main 12V output. Full Load regulation is only 0.11V and the overload characteristic is trip off at about 56A, break input to reset.
So as I paid £9.50, I now have a good 12V, 50A psu for just over a tenner!, ($16)

Wayne

im glad i found this post .. thank you!! .. I have a few of these power supplies and could never figure out how to get the 12v out ..

Voy