A simple high quality 12Volt 100Amp Power Supply- Part1 - Page 26 - RC Groups
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Dec 05, 2010, 01:19 AM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Good news. I'll put a link to this post on the summary thread.

john
Quote:
Originally Posted by hubgar
<edit>.
The pictures below explain the connections.
Great thread, thanks guys.
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Dec 10, 2010, 07:59 PM
Thermal Chaser
Homesick_Angel's Avatar
This thread has made me a power supply hoarder. Every time I see one I find myself looking at the amp/voltage outputs. LOL
Dec 10, 2010, 08:24 PM
Registered User
Me, too! I had to discipline myself after no. 6!! Stopped looking, now.

Still looking for homes for a couple of mine.
Dec 10, 2010, 11:58 PM
Registered User
I finally decided to bite the bullet. A friend of mine bought a Meanwell PS and started charging his batteries at 10A (about 15 minutes for two in parallel). Argh... My laptop PS (4A) lets me charge one battery in about 30 minutes. Time for a change.

PS: HP ESP-115 (Model PS-5551-2, Part No. 216068-002)

From what I can read, the output seems to be 30A at 12V, which is more than enough for my iCharger 106b+ (10A max).

The pins to short to make it start are the following:

N N N N N
Y Y N N N
N N N N N
N Y Y N N

There are 6 tabs on one side and 4 on the other side. From left to right, the first two are 3.3V, the next two are 5V and the last two before the pins are 12V. The 4 to the right are ground.

The first time I powered it up, I was surprised it's very silent. In fact, I thought it wasn't working properly. The fans run at 100% on connection (self test) and then go down to a level where it's barely impossible to hear them. I guess they'll make more noise when I'll start charging, but it shouldn't exceed the self test level which is quite similar to my laptop. I'm very impressed so far, but I still have to charge two batteries in parallel (tomorrow).

Anyway, thanks a lot for all the help and to give me the idea to reuse something that was going to be thrown away.
Dec 14, 2010, 08:37 PM
Fly like never crash as always
tascheri's Avatar

Used Server PSīs


Does anyone know if these are any good? Itīs a deal ($70) for the whole lot. If size matters...



Wish I knew more.
Dec 15, 2010, 05:25 PM
Registered User
FLJetFlyer's Avatar

AWG for 25A?


jj and others,
what AWG cable are you using?
I have a couple of HP 12V 106A PSs (same as JJ). Not sure if I should get AWG 12 or 14. I have some 14 avail and fits perfectly inside the blades but I am not sure if it is big enough to handle max 25A.
I am thinking of getting 12AWG but not sure if it fits inside the blades without braking them.

Any suggestion greatly appreciated.
Thanks!!
Gaston
Dec 15, 2010, 07:46 PM
You can call me FANBOY!
Personally with that much power available I would go with 12. You should be able to make it work without breaking anything if you are careful.
Dec 15, 2010, 08:34 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
12 will work fine. 10g is too big, hard to solder because of the thermal mass and unnecessary. I personally would use HK's 12g silicone wire. Cheap, good quality and it is very flexible and malleable. The strands just move around to fit between the blades. Theoretically you should tin the wire first but I would just push it between the blades and heat the whole thing to solder it. Really easy if you use a big enough soldering iron so it stays hot.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisf testpilot
Personally with that much power available I would go with 12. You should be able to make it work without breaking anything if you are careful.
Dec 15, 2010, 08:50 PM
You can call me FANBOY!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604
I personally would use HK's 12g silicone wire. Cheap, good quality and it is very flexible and malleable. The strands just move around to fit between the blades. Theoretically you should tin the wire first but I would just push it between the blades and heat the whole thing to solder it. Really easy if you use a big enough soldering iron so it stays hot.
Thats the way I would do it. I order the good silicone wire from RadicalRC, surprisingly its not much more expensive than HK. Its $6 for 1 meter of red and black in 13ga. They have 11, 13, 14, and 16 but not 12. Always thought that was kinda funny for some reason.
Dec 15, 2010, 09:48 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
For what it's worth here are the recommended current limits for chassis wiring of various American wire gauges. This is for solid Cu from memory but won't be far out. Also you can pass more current - it just gets warm!

10g - 55A
11g - 47A
12g - 41A
13g - 35A
14g - 32A
15g - 28A
16g - 22A

Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisf testpilot
Thats the way I would do it. I order the good silicone wire from RadicalRC, surprisingly its not much more expensive than HK. Its $6 for 1 meter of red and black in 13ga. They have 11, 13, 14, and 16 but not 12. Always thought that was kinda funny for some reason.
Dec 15, 2010, 09:58 PM
You can call me FANBOY!
Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604
For what it's worth here are the recommended current limits for chassis wiring of various American wire gauges. This is for solid Cu from memory but won't be far out. Also you can pass more current - it just gets warm!

10g - 55A
11g - 47A
12g - 41A
13g - 35A
14g - 32A
15g - 28A
16g - 22A
You have done this a few times havent you

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm
Dec 17, 2010, 09:44 PM
Registered User
Hi extremely smart people.

I'm hoping for some help. I have an HP part #379123-001 that appears to have been mentioned here previuosly without resolution.

I have the following thread which contains a few detailed pictures that I am hope someone would be kind enough to review and reply to (here or there is fine).

RCTech forum thread

Thanks a lot for the time and help!
Dec 20, 2010, 03:24 AM
Registered User
Couple of mysteries. Don't understand where you get the big pin nos. like 1-12 and 53-54.

Ref pic 5, the 3rd from left is annotated with 5.14V and 'continuity to body'. Can't both be right.

The first step is always to find the short pin or tab. Yours is the 2nd tab pic 5. Ground this and see if this starts it. My HP DL360/380 only needs this mod so yours might be the same.

In any case, this will be needed even if another one needs to be grounded as well.

Let's know how this goes.
Dec 20, 2010, 09:22 AM
Registered User
Hi, Thanks for the reply.

The pin numbers are printed on the circuit board. by 1-12 i meant pins 1 through 12 (its just one big pin though).

i double checked the 5.14 noted and i had the meter backwards :| it does not ground to body.

So I soldered a wire to that second (shortest) pin and grounded it. Nothing.

Any ideas what to try next?

Thanks again!
Dec 20, 2010, 11:18 AM
You can call me FANBOY!
In most cases it takes two control pins to turn the supply on. And dont just go by the fan turning on as to whether or not its hot. I have a Compaq that the fans didnt turn on until there was a substantial load on it. I would try grounding both small pins that show voltage to the ground next to them while checking for 12+v on the large pins. One or the other or both should work.


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