WARNING: This solution is for PSU with HP PART NUMBER 0950-3794. It is not working for similar PSU's with
HP PART NUMBER 0957-2183.

I have couple of HP PPA0008 (HP part number: 0950-3794, FRU A6093-69021).
It is PSU with 2 independent input AC lines and +12v 5A and +48v 20A output.
Inside server (actually i took them from I/O expansion module for RP8420) they work in parallel and connected
together using interconnection board. The interconnection board images are attached in case you're interested.
GND is not common for 48v and 12v . It is around 10v between 48v GND and 12v GND (48v GND is negative).
The 12v standby output is always on. To enable 48v output you have to connect A1 and C3 (check image) to the
12v GND and use button between 2A and some positive pin (i use 4C). Falling edge (button disconnect) on 2A
triggers the switch.
Pins 1D and 2C somehow related to 48v output adjustment, but i don't need it and didn't bothered much with research.
The PSU is managed by some PIC controller (PIC16F873) with attached EEPROM. Im sure some of control lines are used for
I2C or other kind of digital communication, but i'm not interested to research more into it.
Most power and control lines of both PSU-s are connected on interconnection board. Notable difference are pins
1B and 1C. For one PSU 1B is connected to the 12v GND, for another it is 1C. I suppose it is to set PSU I2C address for
communication, but maybe i'm wrong. Control lines are gathered into 2x7 pins connector, where one half is 12v GND
and another half you may see on image.
Control pins on PSU are compatible with 2.54 dupont connectors, which are very common.
Hope this information will be useful.

Update: For redundancy purposes PSU uses 2 independent AC lines. On image with open case you may see doubled elements.
Of course you may use single source AC line, just connect it to both AC inputs of PSU. I uploaded images of server side AC connector
and AC filter.

Originally Posted by gsf

Hello guys!

Does anybody know anything about powering on HP PPA0008 48V 20.8A power supply?
Maybe someone has a pinout?

Here are some images attached

And a table with what i had already discovered about it.

I will greatly appreciate your help!

Then power it with 220V in, I get nothing on main output high current connector, and nothing on any pin of the control marix connector.

Are these any good http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-POWER-SUP...zcwgpvM0Mq9H3w

I searched but didn't see much

That HP PPA0008 could be interesting for Revo dualPowerlab users as I think it will take up to 50v input.

How big are those power supplies and can you get that parallel board?

The metal case is 52.5x14.2x6.2cm. Actually it is a bit longer, because of those "tips" (sorry, i'm not a native english speaker, can't select correct word) above AC and DC connectors, but one may cut them if necessary.
Few times i seen 51V output when used 1kOhm resistor between 1D and 2C, but PSU OVP seems kicked in, and resistor was pretty hot. With 20kOhm i seen 48.8. The parallel board is on photos i uploaded, it was taken from RP8420 I/O expansion unit, and i'm sure you may get 3 of them from RP8420 (6 PSUs in the RP8420, 2 in I/O expansion unit). But nothing special in this board, it is totally passive and just connects control and power lines of both PSUs, except pins 1A and 1B. The AC board has 2 connectors with embedded filters for 2 independent AC lines (for input power redundancy), each PSU get both AC lines (top 2 pins is 1st line, and bottom 2 pins is 2nd, 2 central pins are for AC ground and connected to a PSU case).

Originally Posted by prototype3a

That HP PPA0008 could be interesting for Revo dualPowerlab users as I think it will take up to 50v input.
How big are those power supplies and can you get that parallel board?

Where to buy good screw type terminals for the power supply? I'm planning on using cable that is 50mm2 (1/0 gauge) or thicker, so I would like to get some heavy duty terminals. I mean terminals like you find on MAAS SPS-50 II (picture below).

Why on earth would you want to use 1/0 cables?

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

Why on earth would you want to use 1/0 cables?

Going to use it to supply power to a car while flashing. If I use let's say 3m (10 feet) cables, so @ 100A I will get around ~0.4V voltage drop + the voltage drop at the connectors. I don't want to get much more voltage drop.

Flashing draws 100A? I don't understand.

I think it would be cheaper and easier to set the power supply under the hood and run and extension cord.
100A @ 12V = 10A @ 120V.

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

Flashing draws 100A? I don't understand.

Some newer cars require quite a bit of power. During flashing anything can turn on, 50A cooling fan, all the lights etc. The voltage cannot drop below 13v, so the power supply needs to able to supply the needed power. If the voltage drops you might end with a car that won't start and some messed up modules, which can cost few thousand each.

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

I think it would be cheaper and easier to set the power supply under the hood and run and extension cord.
100A @ 12V = 10A @ 120V.

Engine bays aren't always clean and they can be quite toasty. For example my car has 105C thermostat so the engine bay is quite hot during summer. Running the power supply in hot conditions isn't optimal if you ask me. So I prefer to put the power supply next to the car. So I would need to find some good terminals for cables.

I have installed many tunes and have not had any of those problems. If you really need those amps, you had better bolt the wiring from the power supply to the battery. I wouldn't expect battery clips to carry 100A very well. If you plan on doing this a lot, female Deans at the battery may be a good idea.

Underhood temps may be high, but the power supplies like I sell are less sensitive to heat than your car battery. And they don't care about dirt unless you start throwing dirt inside them.

Originally Posted by feathermerchant

I have installed many tunes and have not had any of those problems. If you really need those amps, you had better bolt the wiring from the power supply to the battery. I wouldn't expect battery clips to carry 100A very well. If you plan on doing this a lot, female Deans at the battery may be a good idea.

Underhood temps may be high, but the power supplies like I sell are less sensitive to heat than your car battery. And they don't care about dirt unless you start throwing dirt inside them.

If I remember correctly BMW now says you need power supply that can provide more than 100A for new BMW's. Flashing a tune and updating the entire car are two different things. I've had my current 50A power supply quite a few times close to it's max. Sure you can connect directly to battery if you want to mess up the on board battery management system. In BMW the battery is typically in the trunk and you would need to pull the interior panels to access it. Thus it isn't affected by heat. BMW generally got jump starting posts in the engine bay that are meant to be used to supply power to the car. Proper battery clips (made from copper) can easily handle way more than 500A. Back in the army we had to start most of the equipment during winter with jumper leads. Most of the equipment had 200A batteries, so cold starting currents for those are in the range of 1000A. Didn't have any issues with proper battery clips. I'm planning on using JD200, which is capable of providing well over 100A with 240v supply. I know server PSU can handle quite a bit of heat. Sure I could put the power supply over the hot engine, thus making the cables quite short, but why? Using deans isn't practical if the you got different car each time. Only practical way to connect is battery clips.

All that is beside the point, all I wanted to know is where to buy those proper screw type terminals. I got them In my current power supply and I like them.

Originally Posted by sparkysko

As far as i know, all the delta supplies appear to be using intel loadshare for the current sharing. I tied together three 580 supplies and they output 225 amps collectively. It appears to go into the loadshare mode after the first load is applied ( i believe load has to be greater than 20 amps). Then they automatically assign a master and slave. For loads under 20 amps, i believe just the master supply handles the load. You can hear a difference in the fans when they go into current share mode. (theh stay in that mode until they are rebooted)

My blue wire is the current share that i tie together. I havent tried bumping up the voltage in current share mode, i left them at the stock voltage (12.8)

Each one does 75 amps, so getting 225 out without it tripping overcurrent is some good stuff.


Ignore the fact that im briefly drawing 30a from a 20a breaker. Do not attempt at home.

Which pins did you connect the blue wire???

That should work even for a BMW!

So I have my ps working and in theory can deliver 800 watts but my charger only pulls 35. Is there a quick way to pull a larger load to see how the PS responds short of purchasing a few 100 watt 12v halogen bulbs to setup a test?

I've seen haywire mentioned but I'm unsure what that means or how I would scale the load up to test at various wattage.

Thanks for any suggestions