Wayne,

Nice clean work. Really like the compact size of this supply.

Curiously, I note that your PS has three power forms yet you have soldered your +12V and RTN terminals to all available blade terminations on the rear of the supply. Makes one wonder - where do the -12V and +5VSB terminate? Presumably the small 'jumper' pins? The higher current +5VSB would likely have to use a few as a single pin might get a bit toasty at 7A.

Mark

edit: Nevermind. Found answer (thanks Google). Attached from a Russian website.

Originally Posted by Wayne Giles

I have just bought and converted an HP Power Supply DPS-600PB and it works fine. As it is difficult/impossible/expensive to obtain the mating rear connector, I have soldered a couple of 4mm test sockets between the blades of the existing connector which makes a convenient termination.
The extra low Z capacitor is only to reduce pk - pk ripple to about 60mV at full load and not strictly necessary.
BTW I think the only real ground pin is pin 8 which pins 6 and 10 should be commoned to in order to enable the main 12V output. Full Load regulation is only 0.11V and the overload characteristic is trip off at about 56A, break input to reset.
So as I paid £9.50, I now have a good 12V, 50A psu for just over a tenner!, ($16)

Wayne

Can you post dimensions? Can't seem to find anything on Google...this time...

(Just a guess from a few photos, these little buggers are 4" x 3" x 10" or so)

Added spec sheet for what appears to be a similar supply, just a slightly different number.

P/N 321632-501 - Noted in Wayne's post above
P/N 321632-001 - Similar to wayne's, seems to be available for less $$ in the US, I just bought two for $24 shipped off Fleabay...

Originally Posted by SpeedVision

Any reason why these couldn't be put in series for 24 volts?

Much like a battery, any DC power supply may be operated in series provided adequate provisions are taken to isolate grounds and cases.

I have been using a ground lift 'cheater' plug like this for almost 2 years...

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...26&postcount=6

Many others are employing similar measures to obtain dirt cheap 24V DC (or 15V, 17V, etc.). Extensive thread discussing safety and such here.

Mark

Originally Posted by SpeedVision

Can you post dimensions? Can't seem to find anything on Google...this time...

(Just a guess from a few photos, these little buggers are 4" x 3" x 10" or so)

Added spec sheet for what appears to be a similar supply, just a slightly different number.

P/N 321632-501 - Noted in Wayne's post above
P/N 321632-001 - Similar to wayne's, seems to be available for less $$ in the US, I just bought two for $24 shipped off Fleabay...

Good guess,Speedvision, actual size is 2.25" x 3" x 11".
I have bought two more to make a 24V supply up and you do need to isolate case of the upper one (in voltage terms) as the case is connected to the 0V rail. This is unusual with power supplies, as outputs are usually floating from earth. I assume it is a convention in Servers.
The problem is that the case is also connected to mains earth, so you cannot just connect the 0v of the second unit to the +12V of the first unit as this will put a short across the 12V supply on the first unit via the mains earth. It may well be that the 0V is only connected to the case at a single point and I will investigate this when my second units arrive. In that case it should be possible to lift that connection and retain mains earth on both units which overcomes the safety aspect.
It is also wise to connect a reverse power diode across the output of each unit to avoid either output being driven negative by the load current should the other unit shut down.

Wayne

I'm looking to put together a nice power supply. In looking at the OP, I'm wondering if there's a difference between PN 348114R-B21 and PN 348114-B21 (no "R"). I've found some of the "no R" units on eBay, and I'm wondering if those are the units to get.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

Hard to say from the photo - they certainly look the same. Someone may know what the R signifies but if not why don't you do what we all did?

Risk $40 and see how you go.

My guess is you will be in luck.

John

Originally Posted by motoguy1

I'm looking to put together a nice power supply. In looking at the OP, I'm wondering if there's a difference between PN 348114R-B21 and PN 348114-B21 (no "R"). I've found some of the "no R" units on eBay, and I'm wondering if those are the units to get.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=263602_263622

It is also wise to connect a reverse power diode across the output of each unit to avoid either output being driven negative by the load current should the other unit shut down.

I considered this long ago when I first started running some in series but decided as they were extrely well self protected and also very inexpensive it was not really worth the effort/cost . If one trips for whatever reason the fact that the other one is reverse feeding it does not seem to mater. Now, I have not let mine run for hours like this but I do not charge unattended either and if one shuts down I stop the charge(s) and reboot the power supplies.


A couple of years or so ago when many were starting to use MasTechs to charge A123 packs I warned often to use some form of reverse current flow protection. Some did and some did not ,some who did not later wished they had. Severrl around here (RC Groups) used a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier from Radio Shack which are rated 25amps / 50 volts

One of many such post

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...2&postcount=81

Charles

Originally Posted by Wayne Giles

Good guess,Speedvision, actual size is 2.25" x 3" x 11".
I have bought two more to make a 24V supply up and you do need to isolate case of the upper one (in voltage terms) as the case is connected to the 0V rail. This is unusual with power supplies, as outputs are usually floating from earth. I assume it is a convention in Servers.
The problem is that the case is also connected to mains earth, so you cannot just connect the 0v of the second unit to the +12V of the first unit as this will put a short across the 12V supply on the first unit via the mains earth. It may well be that the 0V is only connected to the case at a single point and I will investigate this when my second units arrive. In that case it should be possible to lift that connection and retain mains earth on both units which overcomes the safety aspect.
It is also wise to connect a reverse power diode across the output of each unit to avoid either output being driven negative by the load current should the other unit shut down.

Wayne

Great, thanks. So, just to it's clear from a rank amateur perspective, I can isolate the cases, float one AC ground, be sure not to touch the cases when plugged in and all should go well, correct? I recently connected 2 DL580's in the same manor and they are working fantastic...

If you do get your second 2 paired up in series, be sure to post your findings to this thread - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1#post13992510

Also, as a side note, many of us also wired up a simple neon light at mains voltage (our case 110v) and wired the positive to one case and the negative to the other. In the event the the ungrounded case goes "live" the light will illuminate giving a visual warning...

Originally Posted by everydayflyer

I considered this long ago when I first started running some in series but decided as they were extrely well self protected and also very inexpensive it was not really worth the effort/cost . If one trips for whatever reason the fact that the other one is reverse feeding it does not seem to mater. Now, I have not let mine run for hours like this but I do not charge unattended either and if one shuts down I stop the charge(s) and reboot the power supplies.


A couple of years or so ago when many were starting to use MasTechs to charge A123 packs I warned often to use some form of reverse current flow protection. Some did and some did not ,some who did not later wished they had. Severrl around here (RC Groups) used a Full Wave Bridge Rectifier from Radio Shack which are rated 25amps / 50 volts

One of many such post

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...2&postcount=81

Charles

Yes, and now our friends at Mastech have come out with EX models designed to eliminate the problem with reverse current flow in the event of power loss to the Mastech while charging. For us diehard A123 guys, having CC-CV is in a power supply is still a pretty nice way to charge them in a hurry...

For us diehard A123 guys, having CC-CV is in a power supply is still a pretty nice way to charge them in a hurry...

Agreed if you have 120AC handy at the field. I stopped using my Zip charges as soon as I go a charger that would do 20 amps and now I have chargers that will 30 and even 40 amps so my Zip charging days are history.

Charles

Quote from Speedvision
"Great, thanks. So, just to it's clear from a rank amateur perspective, I can isolate the cases, float one ground, be sure not to touch the cases when plugged in and all should go well, correct? I recently connected 2 DL580's in the same manor and they are working fantastic"

If you can float one ground from the 0V DC ouput then the answer is "Yes"
Do not float the case from the mains Earth as you have then lost the safety protection of the mains earth system, so that a fault on the mains side of that psu could make the case live. Thus you must retain mains earth connections, but can, if practical, float the DC outputs. I will try to do this on one of the units in transit to me and post results.

Charles,

On linear PSUs any reverse voltage at the output would invariably lock out that output by operating the re-entrant overload circuit. This is unlikely to happen on a switchmode psu as the overload sytem is different, but the diodes are necessary to protect the ouput electrolytic capacitors which otherwise would be damaged by the reverse voltage. They may be built into the unit already, but most likely are not as the units would not be subject to this condition in their intended usage.

Wayne

Originally Posted by Wayne Giles

"
Do not float the case from the mains Earth as you have then lost the safety protection of the mains earth system, so that a fault on the mains side of that psu could make the case live. Thus you must retain mains earth connections, but can, if practical, float the DC outputs. I will try to do this on one of the units in transit to me and post results.

Ok, thanks. Some/many of us are willing to take the "controlled risk" to float an AC mains Earth ground to one of the supplies. While this is not ideal, it's the chance I take for now... With that said, I welcome any information you can come up with to effectively allow the mains Earth ground to both supplies.

Originally Posted by SpeedVision

Ok, thanks. Some/many of us are willing to take the "controlled risk" to float an AC mains Earth ground to one of the supplies. While this is not ideal, it's the chance I take for now... With that said, I welcome any information you can come up with to effectively allow the mains Earth ground to both supplies.

A possibility would be to lift the mains earth on the upper supply (DC voltagewise) of the two units and connect two fairly hefty 15V Zeners ( 1N5352A?) back to back across the 12V output of each unit. This would clamp the DC ouput in the event of mains leakage on the upper unit to about + or - 32V and the chassis of the upper unit to + or - 16V subject to the leakage being low enough not to blow the zeners OC. Still not ideal, but would limit the risk to a much lower level than just floating the upper unit.
All subject to "At your own risk" of course.
Will post again when I have had time to examine the units in transit.

Wayne

Originally Posted by jj604

The part number I gave 348114R-B21 is the one that brings up the power supply if you do a Google search.

The label on the case has a couple of different numbers.

Part Number 3378676-501
Spare number 406421-001

Which return nothing on the net but might be useful to know.

jj604, can you clear a few things up regarding the part numbers relative to the 12v 100 amp supplies? Ideally a picture of the actual sticker on one of the supplies. Here's why:

First, 348114-B21 brings up supplies that look nothing like the supplies you pictured in all your posts...

I believe Remarketers or Refurbishers add the "R" making the revised number 348114R-B21

Example: http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/vn/en...72-465628.html

Second, Part Number "3378676-501" doesn't exist unless you drop 6, then it brings up a supply that looks like what you've referenced.

Third, the description for 337867-501 is "FOR PROLIANT DL585 G2 DL580 G3 ML5 G4"

Example: http://www.serversupply.com/MFGR/HP%...337867-501.htm

Fourth, the supply you referenced in the first post of your 12v 100 amp thread is the "HP PROLIANT DL580/ML570G3 RPS REDUNDANT POWER SUPPLY" which matches part number 337867-001, not 337867-501

I appreciate all your time and hard work, but I think some of these details make it difficult for us to separate fact from fiction. With that said, I'm not completely sure some of the vendors even know what they have since HP has all kinds of numbers and server models flying around.

In summary, after looking closer, looks like the third and fourth items above both have the DL580G3 server in their title which likely means their essentially the same - at least for our purposes.

Unless I'm delirious or way off base, I would suggest that you drop the
"348114R-B21" references in favor of the 2 numbers that seem to matter most which are:

337867-501
337867-001

Hopefully, this all makes sense and is correct. I'm just trying to insure that those who want to duplicate your efforts don't run into any roadblocks (or speed bumps) along the way. Thanks again for all your hard work.

Yep, that number now brings up a different looking supply. Sigh.

There's a big range of different "580" servers which can be very confusing. If it says 1300Watts it is likely to be the one though.

Best I can do is get a picture of the label on the original supply that started this thread and put it in the first post. The other two I have are in a 24V combo and you can't see the labels any more.

It's morning here and it will have to wait till I get home later tonight.

John

Think I found a picture of the label from one of your other threads.

This is for the 12v 1300 watt version:

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/atta...mentid=2974138