dmrcflyr2's blog View Details
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 26, 2014 @ 09:55 AM | 3,744 Views
I was taking some comparison pictures of my FA-45S and the new 56 I just got. Seeing as they are the same size crank case, I wanted to see what all physical differences there were between the two.

I also figured since it was out I would put it on the stand and run a tank through it. It started on the 3rd flip. I had a MA 11x6 propeller and Omega 10% fuel.

I recorded 10,500RPM @WOT and a nice 2400RPM steady idle. This is one sweet running engine and the one Saito that I have the most run time on. Although I am not sure how much it really is. It is also the engine I have had the longest; I think I bought it around 2000.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 23, 2014 @ 01:20 PM | 4,886 Views
I strapped my newly acquired 91S to the test stand today for its inital few runs. Normally I am a stickler about adhering to the manufacturers break-in instructions; however I do not necessarily agree with what Saito states.

First they state for a 91 open the needle valve 2 1/2 full turns from closed. I open it 3 full turns. Then they state do not run the engine above 4000 RPM for the first 10 minutes of operation, but they do not state whether or not this 4K is acheived @WOT with the needle valve or the intial needle settings and only run 4K using the throttle setting. Most manufacturers state to run at WOT and achieve the RPM range with the needle valve.

Either way this is what I did: Open 3 full turns and run the engine at various throttle settings througout the fuel tank(s). I assure you 3 turns open is a VERY rich setting. I did not allow the RPM to go above 8000 max on the first tank. I was using a Master Airscrew 14x6 propeller.

I have been breaking in Saito engines since 1991 and I have never had a premature failure, or any failure of any kind on one. So I am quite sure my procedure will yield a favorable result again.

This engine started on the first flip and ran like it had already been run before. Sure it will benefit from a bit of leaning in a few tanks, but it ran quite well. It would hold a steady 3300 RPM idle on this initial tank too. I ran 2 tanks in total today. There was a nice cloud of white exhaust drifting through the neighborhood...

I was comparing this engine to my 65 a few days ago. I took the carbs off of each and compared them side by side. You can see how different they are, and the throat size of the 91 is enormous.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 22, 2014 @ 10:12 AM | 4,376 Views
It had to happen some time; I could not let this engine sit around forever. I just put 2 tanks of Omega 10% through the engine. I strapped an APC 10x6 on it , swapped out the glowplug that was in it. It was not a standard Enya plug, in fact it looked like a Fox plug with a big idle bar. I typically do not run plugs with idle bars in ANY engine unless absolutely necessary. It was not in this case.

Following the instructions for starting and break-in, I put about 5 drops of fuel into the carb and flipped the prop several times. It took exactly 1 flip for this engine to start!! I had the needle valve set to 3 turns out which was a bit much.

Using my tach I leaned the mixture until I had 8500 RPM @ WOT. This may sound like a lot but it was still blubbering rich, although it would run without the ignitor on.

Tank 2 I leaned it to 9000 RPM. I will run sesequent tanks leaning slightly each time until I get to about 11K-12K RPM. The listed RPM range for this engine is 8K-16K RPM. I do not fly pylon racers or anything like that so I will not lean this above 12K PRM on the ground for general flying.

I had the air bleed screw set to the mid way closed setting, a good setting for any air bleed carb to begin with, and the engine would hold a very nice 3000 RPM idle. Transistion was not ideal as yet but it is just the first few tanks. At no time did the engine stall or hesitate at all through the runs. I would hold WOT for 10-12 seconds and then drop to mid to low for 10-12 seconds.

All and all just another high quality Enya engine!
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 10, 2014 @ 05:58 PM | 3,781 Views
I have just recieved the second Enya SS 40BB I have owned. I sold the first after it had been broken in on the bench. This one will never be sold. There is just something about the Enya engines that screams quality and this engine is an example of that.

No longer made this late 80's design, I believe, features a cast iron hand lapped piston which when broken in properly broken in will last an indefinite period of time. Dual ball bearing supported crankshaft easily accessed with the front end removed. There is no removeable backplate on this engine, just the front end. The machining is second to none and the simple yet tried and true air bleed carb makes tuning a piece of cake. This is certainly not the strongest 40 sized engine out there but the quality and simplicity of design make it a classic.

As soon as I sold my first I regretted it, I won't be making that mistake again.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 06, 2014 @ 03:23 PM | 3,962 Views
So I had sold several other engines and an airplane to purchase my Christmas gifts to myself. I also recieved in the mail today a NIB Saito FA-91S that a wonderful member on this forum parted with. It is about 98% complete, but for the price I cannot complain. The few items missing are the prop washer, proper prop nuts and the 12mm x 14mm box head wrench. The wrench I have plenty of and the prop washer and nuts can be obtained from my LHS, so no problem at all.

I can tell this engine has never had a drop of fuel through it by the look, feel, and smell of it. I actually sold a well used no box FA-91S to help fund the NIB one I was looking for.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 06, 2014 @ 03:05 PM | 3,915 Views
So I picked up another nice deal here from a fellow member on this forum. A very WELL used Enya 60-4C, for $50. It was engine only no box, tools, or exhaust. There are very high resolution pictures in the ad so I knew what I was getting.

I immediately began the normal tear down. It seemed to have decent compression. Numerous dings and clear signs of good solid use.

With the front end off I immediately could tell this was not the original set of bearings in this engine. The front was a sealed kind, sealed on both sides which is usually not done. The rear looked good and both felt ok. Although the front had a bit of damage; the front seal was pressed in a bit. The crank shaft, amazingly, tapped right out of the front end leaving both bearings in place. I quickly and easily tapped the front bearing out to better inspect it. It will do for now. I also saw some damage inside the front end from when the rear bearing had been removed. A pretty nice chunk of the bearing shoulder was taken out. We will see how this affects operation, but it should be alright. That can be seen in the last picture.

I did not remove the valves as they felt nice and smooth with no sticking at all. When I removed the rocker arm holder I found the head screw beneath it was not torqued at all.

The piston came right out and had no dark areas on it at all. The view of the valves showed some running but no hot spots or excessive carbon build up. It looked pretty darn good really.
...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Nov 30, 2014 @ 12:30 PM | 4,348 Views
I have owned this engine for about 3 years now. I am pretty sure that I bought it here but I cannot find the deal. Maybe I got it from RCU, either way it was a used engine in excellent shape when I bought it. It has been on my Tower Uproar 40 for the last 2 years and logged about 15 flights. It has been nearly a year since it was run last so I thought I would take it off the airplane, clean it up, and prep it for storage. I am not flying anymore so it needs a good prep before storage.

I took the front housing off to see the bearings and crankshaft. The bearings still felt good and the crank shaft easily tapped out with a rubber mallet without heat. The front gasket is gone, deteriorated. When this gets to run again I will pop the front housing off again and seal with Permatex Motoseal gasket maker. Until then, I'll leave it.

The head and valves look like new still. I cleaned the inside with standard rubbing alcohol followed by being blown out with the air compressor. A nice coating of Marvel Mystery oil for the insides and bearings. Final assembly and turn the prop over. No compression... No problem. Even though I did not disassemble the rockers from the center piece, nor did I remove the timing housing, the valves still needed a bit of adjustment. It had compression when I removed it from the plane, but in the process of disassembly the timing changed a bit. Maybe the screw holding the rockers in place was not properly torqued. Each arm was a bit...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Nov 27, 2014 @ 07:25 AM | 4,834 Views
Well as life would have it things have changed in my RC life. I have less time and desire to drag airplanes to the field, thus I am pretty much done flying for the foreseeable future. I still love engines and will run them occasionally. The collection has changed much since my last post. I now only have the following:

ASP 52 2-stroke - it is coupled with a Hangar 9 Tango 40 on craigslist for sale.
OS FS-30 4 stroke is on craigslist coupled with a Sportsman Aviation WACO 30.
Saito FA-56 4-stroke on craigslist coupled with my SIG Citabria

Items I am currently keeping

NIB Enya 80-4C
Enya 46-4C on my Tower uproar
Mecoa 46 2-stroke recently purchased.
Saito FA-65
Saito FA-45S
Magnum 61 4-stroke parts engine, been trying to give it away without success.

I hope to be purchasing a NIB Saito FA-91S but some of that depends on pending sales of the airplane/engine combos above. They are not listed here as I am unwilling to ship airplanes.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | May 04, 2014 @ 10:51 AM | 4,668 Views
I found a deal I couldn't pass up on an OS FS-30 4-stroke. I am going to put it in the Waco ARF that I had originally planned for the Magnum 30. Seeing as the Magnum is not a hand starting engine, I am selling it.

This OS is used and in very good condition. I did my normal disassembly, inspection, and cleaning prior to running it. Internally it looked very good; sorry no pictures. I did not re-set the valves; I figured I would just run it as is and adjust them if necessary. NOT necessary! This little engine started on the first flip! Thats my kind of engine. It has the exact same mounting dimensions as the Magnum so no mods will be necessary in mounting to the Waco, when I get back to it.

Quite honestly the Magnum was the reason finishing up the Waco has not been a priority.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 29, 2014 @ 12:23 PM | 5,583 Views
I ran and continued the break-in of some engines today.

First was The Little Gem, Magnum FS-30. This little engine continues to impress me. As I mentioned in an earlier post, as the compression increases the difficulty in starting decreases. It took a whopping 6 flips to get it running today. Of course the key to hand starting a four stroke engine is properly priming it. Not all engines prime quite the same.

I always start with the tried and true full throttle, cover the carb opening, and turn the prop over until fuel comes out of the carb. Close the throttle and turn the prop over a few more times. Although this engine draws fuel in easily using this method getting it into the intake is another matter. This engine needs a bit of fuel shot into the head through the glow plug hole. Once that is done it fires right up. I am running a 10x6 APC on this engine and it posted 8300RPM at WOT and ticked over nicely at 3100 PRM at idle. I did begin to adjust the low speed needle; I closed it about 1/4 turn. Transition is from idle to full throttle is nice as long as I don't really advance it too fast. I deem this engine ready for mounting into the Waco 30 it came with.

Saito 80 GK
This engine is on about the 4th tank. I inadvertently installed the MA 14x6 on it today instead of the 13x6; I did not notice this until after the run. As mentioned above about priming, this engine does NOT suck fuel up into the carb very well using my normal method. I have seen this...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 24, 2014 @ 06:57 PM | 5,054 Views
Finally I scored a NIB OS FS-90! The previous 2 were not pristine like this. The first, which I no longer have, was well used. The second had a low but undetermined amount of time on it. This one looks just like it did 30 years ago from the factory. Granted it has a bit of dust and 30 years of exposure. According to the fellow I bought it from, it was purchased many years ago and installed into a P6E and hung from a ceiling all these years. When the original owner passed his widow gave this engine to the fellow I bought it from.

I intend to break this engine in according to the instructions and then find a suitable plane to call it home in. My second is currently up for sale on RCU but I am seriously considering pulling it back and keeping it. As it is a low time engine I would have an excellent source of spare parts just in case. Parts for these are quite difficult to get, however finding entire engines does not seem to be as hard seeing as I have purchased 3 in the last 2 years.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 23, 2014 @ 03:29 PM | 4,576 Views
Well I have 3 hard earned tanks of fuel through this little engine. The break-in is going well and the compression is starting to increase, as felt by my hand. This has by far been the most difficult engine to get started that I have ever owned. I don't own and don't believe in electric starters, so this is my burden to bear. I am sure that had I used an electric starter I would not have had the issues getting it running. But as the compression comes up it gets easier to start each time. In fact the last run of the day took and amazing low 10 flips to get it running.

I may have also been hampered by my glow plug selection. The middle plug is the one I had been using and got one tank run on. I just took it out of my plug box and I am not sure the make. I cannot see any print on it. I thought I had a few OS 'F' plugs but they must all be in my other engines. The plug on the left is a new Hangar 9 2 cycle Super Plug. I used this on the 2 tanks of fuel today. Perhaps it's longer reach aided in starting. The instructions for the engine just state a 'hot' style plug designed for 4 stroke engines. Eventually I will get another OS 'F' or a Fox Miracle plug. For now the Hangar 9 will stay in it. The plug on the right, IDK, I was using it just to make sure my ignitor was still good after the darn thing wouldn't start on the hundreds of flips required to get it running.

On the last tank I had it running up to 8000 RPM and it would hold a low speed of 3500 RPM without having even begun to adjust the low speed screw. I think I can safely set it for about 9000 RPM for flight with the 10x6 APC.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 22, 2014 @ 07:54 AM | 5,670 Views
I just picked up a new little 4 stroke engine, a Magnum FS-30. I got this in a package deal from a member here. I also got the long since discontinued Sportsman Aviation Waco 30 biplane. More on that in a nother post though.

There is a certain member on this forum that really despise this little gem. I will find out soon enough if this hatred is justified. The box is very attrative and the paper contents are just as impressive. A very comprehensive set of paperwork comes with it along with a single allen key and muffler assembly. This engine is NIB and has never seen a drop of fuel. I will be evaluating it for ease of starting and overall handling. Check out the price listed on the box. I am unsure how old this engine really is but I paid nowhere near the price on the box for this engine. RC Forums are great places to buy engines!

I will be starting the break-in process this weekend and when the mini servos arrive early next week, I will start the Waco/Magnum project.

Well it took some time but I got it started and running. I knew it would be a bit difficult being a ringed engine and the compression being low intially. I compounded the problem by not having my glow ignitors fully charged. I think the first 30 minutes I spent trying to get it running for the first time was due to them. Once they were charged up and really making the plug glow, a few shots of fuel into the chamber and about 5 good flips and it was running.

A quiet little thing. I ran about 8 oz of fuel through it and I am letting it cool now before another run. As per the instructions I left the ignitor on for the first minute, then I removed it and leaned it just enough to keep it running rough at half throttle. I would put the ignitor on periodically just to hear the increase in RPM and keep it going.

I am running a 10x6 and Omega 10% fuel through it.
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 16, 2014 @ 12:58 PM | 4,641 Views
At one time I had 2 of the engines I have since sold the one that came with the box and tools. It looked to be the one with the most run time. So down to this one that I detailed disassembly and cleaning of below from Dec 2013.

I put it on the test stand yesterday for a run and I took some videos. I did not get it primed well enough when I first started it; it took longer than normal to get going. Apparently the last time I had it on the bench I had it set pretty darn rich as it died immediately when I took off the glow ignitor. I don't know if I thought it looked so noew it needed to be broken in or what, but I leaned it out to my normal 8500-8800 RPM with the MA 14x6.

Such as this damn addiction is, I also just made an offer on a NIB FS-90 from RCU. I will detail that engine when it arrives. Seeing as I am not really building planes from kits anymore, especially larger kits, I am not sure if I really need 2 of these engines again. But since I like to have the newest most pristine engines as possible, this one might find it's way to the classifieds along with the TF Red Box P-39 I bought for this engine.

Here is a link to the 3 videos of the one tank I ran through it.

Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 08, 2014 @ 04:40 PM | 4,828 Views
I have put 4 tanks of fuel through the 80GK as of this writing and the break-in process is nearing completion. The rest really needs to take place on an airplane BUT I don't have one for either of the mid sized Saito's I have.

I took the chance to run all three engines today just as a general comparison of starting and operating characteristics. I hand start EVERY engine I own 2 and 4 stroke. So obviously one of my evaluation points is how easily an engine I own starts.

Of the 3 Saito's my favorites from a overall operating characteristics to include cold/warm starting, throttle transition, and idle, are in order 65, 91, 80.

The 65 is just a sweetheart in every way. It takes the least prime, it is the easiest to start, nicest idle and excellent transition. This engine has at most 7-8 tanks of fuel through it. It averages 2 flips to start.

The 91 is a VERY close second. When this engine was purchased it was well used; so it is fully broken in. This engine might take 3-4 flips to start.

The 80 is a real BITCH of an engine. It takes the most effort to prime it; in fact both times from cold it needed fuel shot into the glow plug hole before it would fire up. The compression ratio is so high it kicks back and literally tore my leather glove up just getting it started. Granted it is not broken in but it really pours out the exhaust smoke. I have it set at about 3 full turns open. When I started to try to lean it a bit it detonated and threw the prop. Obviously,...Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Mar 02, 2014 @ 03:58 PM | 5,151 Views
I fired up the 80GK I recieved last week as detailed below. Since I am never parting with this engine I figured I would begin the break-in processe. I have run 2 full tanks of Morgan's Omega 15% through it today. I used a MA 13x6 for the prop. Ordinarily I would run 10% but I needed to finish up this gallon that I purchased when 10% was not available.

I also used the header and muffler from the 91 I have instead of the one that came with the engine. I think I will purchase a new steel header, as the one that cames with this engine was AL. I am not sure how long Saito provided AL headers, but this is the first one I have ever seen and I have owned over 15 different Saito engines.

I set the needle valve to 2 full turns open from fully closed and ran the first half of the tank at 4000 RPM by adjusting the throttle. I shut it down after half a tank and let her cool down before the next run.

The videos are from the second tank. Initially it needed a few drops of fuel injected into the glow plug hole; it fired up immediately then.

Holy cow! I brought the engine in to cool and just now went back to touch it. Man it has a very high compression ratio! A 1993 vintage might be the original compression ratio of 15.5:1 as listed here
It is quite stout. What a beauty!

Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 29, 2013 @ 01:08 PM | 5,426 Views
I was bored today and decided to open up a couple of engines for an internal inspection. First off was my ASP FS 61 which has about 1 hour of run time on in, bench and flight time. By looking at the inside I would have been hard pressed to believe I have run it that much. Note how much larger the intake valve is compared to the exhaust valve.

The other engine I opened up was my trusty Saito FA-45S. I have had this engine for a number of years, >10, but I don't know how much total runtime it has. Again, by looking at the internals it doesn't seem like much. See how the intake and exhaust valves are the same size in this engine?
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Dec 14, 2013 @ 02:02 PM | 5,176 Views
I now have (2) os FS-90 4 stroke engines. I just recently purchased my second one from a member here for a very good price, well under $100. It is just the engine, no box, paperwork or tools.

When it arrived it would not even turn over. The seller did not think there had been much run time on the engine but let me know the condition. As I always do with used engine purchases, I completely disassembled it. It had been run but by the looks of it not more than a few tanks. It was gummed up from the fuel/oil residue hardening inside.

I cleaned it up and very thoroughly and had it on the bench today. Just as my other FS-90 it started on the first flip. Soon it was turning a 14x6 at 8500 RPM. It would turn it more than that but this is usually where I set my 4 strokes while on the bench.

Now I have 2 very nice running FS-90's and no planes for them....Continue Reading
Posted by dmrcflyr2 | Jul 26, 2013 @ 02:14 PM | 5,590 Views
I scored a NEW Saito 65 from craigslist unexpectedly. The story is I have been watching this ad for a Saito 65 for about 3 months. When it would expire the gent would repost with a dollar or two off the price. The ad stated the following:

I have a Used SAITO FA-65 .65 FOUR 4 STROKE RC ENGINE with PROPELLER and NOSE CONE. This engine had been well taken care of and very little use on it.

It always had the same 2 pictures and from them it looked to be in good condition. I finally emailed him and asked what his bottom dollar was. It was located about 2 hours drive north of me and I really did not want to drive that far just for an engine. So his answer back was $110 shipped. I can't remember what it was originally listed for but the last price in the ad was $127. The same fellow had a few other RC odds and ends that were nothing special.

So I took a chance and sent him a check, that was his preferred method of payment. Additionally, this engine was just engine no tools or box; he offered a prop and spinner but I declined on those items.

When the engine arrived as I usually do with used engines, I opened up the back cover, remove the muffler and do a general inspection of its condition.

Aside from a bit of dust, it looked pristine. It did not have the smell of oil or fuel, in fact it smelled like they do right out of the box. After removing the back cover my suspicions were confirmed. This engine has NEVER seen a drop of fuel. Here are a few pictures of it.

I can see that the glow plug is the standard one shipped with Saitos and even it has never seen combustion. All in all I think I scored a pretty darn good deal here. I just had to share.

I have run about 5 tanks of fuel through this engine and it is one of the finest Saito's I have ever had. It starts on the first flip and transitions instantaneously from idle to WOT. All in all it is definitely a keeper.