KristofferR's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by KristofferR | Mar 16, 2018 @ 02:08 PM | 662 Views
A used Summit for sale appeared temptingly on a local site. It has long been on my wishlist and I decided to go for it. Completely stock and in good condition, save for two of the four LiPO:s that had, according to my voltmeter, been stored fully charged and were quite swollen. NiMH:s were fine.

Driving the Summit was interesting. The appearance was familiar as I have had two 1/16 Summit VXL:s before. The increase in scale and the low/hi gears and lockable diffs were unfamiliar though. The big Summit has a better CG for its width and length than the small one and it really showed - it almost clung to steep cliffs.

With locked diffs and low gear it was tremendously capable and easily mastered one of my favourite difficult trails. Walking back on the wide gravel road, the high gear and open diff setting allowed me to slide around and send jumps of different obstacles.

I got about 40 minutes of driving on the stock NiMH batteries which is very impressive too.

The first drive - well lets say this drives exactly like the videos show. As a trail companion it is probably perfect, mixing a bit of crawl, a bit of trail and a bit of bash equally well.
Posted by KristofferR | Mar 07, 2018 @ 02:07 PM | 963 Views
The Stampede is a good truck but one of several things I wish Traxxas would adress is the rear body post design. I have three of these bodies and they all crack, quickly and in the same place.

A bit of google work led me to an excellent test at rctech by MailManX.

https://www.rctech.net/forum/paintin...ny-photos.html

1-2 layers of drywall tape and a liberal smearing of Shoe-Goo (ventilate, ventilate!!) and the crack propagation should stop.

I got my drywall tape at ClasOhlson, the ShoeGoo at CDON (GåBra.se). ClasOhlson is a hardware store and CDON is a portal like Amazon. Now just have to find an equivalent to ”rubberized undercoating” in Sweden....
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 25, 2018 @ 01:35 PM | 1,172 Views
On the CC01, there is a screwed down plastic shelf that holds the ESC and receiver, as well as holding the battery pack in place. The reduction gear installation meant there was less space for the battery. It could fit in theory, standing on edge.

Removing the shelf and cutting it in two parts before screwing it back on provided shelves and space for a mid mounted battery. A forward dual strap mount is available too. Now my CC01 is capable of holding up to three 2200mAh LiPO:s in parallel which should provide a long runtime.

The LED installation is finished and the cables are held with hot glue and the interior fits nicely using the Tamiya-supplied pads and velcro.

Lastly, the crawler wheels are a little too big and to use them requires some mods.

Next up is weathering of the bodyshell. The plan is to use ”dust” in form of eyeshadow and layer of flat clear PS-55 paint. Painting my two Stampedes truck beds served as practice and resulted in a too flat finish for the Pajero.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 20, 2018 @ 02:18 PM | 1,461 Views
After watching some Youtube tutorials I realized that 1/ those people are completely amazing model builders and 2/ I lack the patience and motivation to try to reach that level.

I picked up some tricks and then embarked on my typical impressionist spree, using paint, brush, toothbrushes, Brillo pad, knife blades, tiny screwdrivers. various marker pens and makeup powder.

Various stickers finished the job, the part numbers and Japanese text from the CC01 ended up on the co-drivers pad!

So far I was ”done” twice but could not resist another go so this is the result as of now. It became more fun the further I got so I can understand the appeal of painting figures and dioramas!

Search words:
Tamiya
Hop Up Parts
rally interior
CC01 Pajero
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 19, 2018 @ 12:37 PM | 1,690 Views
The last few days I got around to painting the rims. I was not happy with the stock tires and wheels, and not really happy with my Dremel job.

At Banggood I found a set of crawler-wheels on five spoke wheels that had the ”right look” and after painting the rims white I think they will do fine.

Next up was the interior. I ordered a bunch of Tamiya X paint cans and used a cheapo brush. After an hour it looked pretty good from afar, now it can dry and I will do another layer or two and then move to detailing.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 12, 2018 @ 12:58 PM | 1,963 Views
I gave my kid a set of Trenchers for her birthday. They were used, but in very good condition.
We went out bashing and trailing in the snow. The cars really packed up heavy with snow and slush. The Trenchers were a lot better than the original tires on my truck.

When I hosed off the cars afterwards I ran the motors at max with the wheels in the air to empty the tires of water - I always punch opposing holes in the tires. Then the motor seized abruptly. This is running 2s on the beginner mode....

I opened it and the rotor was cracked. Options? New rotor is within budget, but maybe the case and windings are dead. No guarantee, cause I got the motor used, and in fairness it might have been punished on 3s.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 10, 2018 @ 10:34 AM | 2,845 Views
I am torn. On one hand, the ability to handle absurdly steep rocks and tricky lines was super fun. Driving ”transport” at 4km/h was super boring. The car looks awesome - in my eyes at least. More time and driving needed, and I am waiting for some better tires than the stock Rally ones. But I suspect I am a basher at heart.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 09, 2018 @ 10:59 AM | 2,277 Views
I started cutting and trial fitting the Tamiya Hop-Up interior to the Pajero. It looks awesome even unpainted.

Next action is to order some paint; I use ”dinominhobby.se in Borås, Sweden and will use Tamiya XF paints.

Plan. Overalls yellow, harnesses blue, helmets white and a black background. White would be more accurate but it will not look good. Undecided about white, yellow or black roll cage so far.

I have never painted an interior before so next is youtube and reading up on painting tips.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 05, 2018 @ 04:34 PM | 1,810 Views
The reduction gearbox is now fitted in my CC01. The chassis needed some cutting and the shaft is a bit longer than the 540 brushed motor so I had to use my Dremel to make some space. I packed the drive with grease and ran it on the bench before installing it in the car. Now with a 3:1 reduction, the CC01 is absurdly slow and I estimate it tops out at about 5-6 km/h with a 6-cell NiMH. With locked diffs it made light work of minor obstacles in my backyard.
Posted by KristofferR | Feb 03, 2018 @ 03:00 PM | 1,392 Views
The last week and a half were lost to the flu. I habe been very very sick. In the mail came some perks though; from eBay Japan a Tamiya rally interior that I will paint up and put in my CC01. From RCMart a 3:1 reduction gearbox. I think my crawler CC01 rally pajero will stand out among the crawlers, but I think the Rally Raid class fits a trail truck / light crawler perfectly.
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 17, 2018 @ 10:32 PM | 1,942 Views
Video of the Crazy Sukhoi. It is designed for indoors but it coped fine with a very light breeze and I enjoyed it so much I kept flying and charging packs until the wind picked up too much.

Crazy Sukhoi Autopartner /Meier Models (5 min 16 sec)

Posted by KristofferR | Jan 17, 2018 @ 06:18 AM | 2,365 Views
It flies again! My Claes Meier Autopartner Crazy Sukhoi resurrected! The missing Depron pieces were replaced with some new ones. I used permanent pen and redid the green/chequered/streak pattern by hand. Some BlenderM tape and UHU Por was needed to fix various cracks etc and all servo horns were re-centered.

CG was guessed, Dual rates set to 30% and first launch, ouch, super rear heavy. Combined with being a bit out of trim it was almost unflyable. Slow though so easy to land. Some adjustment of battery and some trim and it transformed completely, becoming very stable and nice.

It is very fragile though. I broke it several times on the board and pulled the fuse apart when clumsily removing the battery. Normal for Depron I think.

Anyway, I went through pack after pack until the wind started picking up too much. Very fun and being my first plane of this type I’m positively surprised and impressed!

First blog post on this https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...khoi-3D-depron
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 13, 2018 @ 03:11 PM | 2,354 Views
My old Multiplex Commander 2020 is ready to serve as a buddybox for my Easy Star.

Ebay-seller rcflieger96 was trusted with the Lehrer-Schuler-Kabel, he soldered a cable up and shipped it. Nice workmanship and it worked perfectly well.

The setting up was a first for me and I think it took about an hour to get it right. The MC2020 programming is old-school and very logical, but I still took a while to get everything right and the manual must be followed exactly. I had the manuals for both the MC2020 and my Cockpit SX 2.4 laid out and took it step by step. Eventually, all was setup nicely; even the spoiler slider worked on the pupil TX.

For anyone attempting: Remove any mixes on the mc2020 pupil transmitter. Make sure all ”pupil” channels are unchecked. Ensure PPM mode. Center everything.

Before trying the function, remove the prop or secure the plane. I was prepared, and sure thing the motor spun up the first attempt.

Now I need some pupils.
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 12, 2018 @ 06:00 AM | 2,874 Views
Today I skipped lunch at work and tried the Easy Star. It fits assembled in the trunk. Temps at -1C meant pain, I had not brought my transmitter glove.

Still, it flew very nicely and there was also some thermal activity; not that I had time to use it!

After three decades of LOS fixed, a short foray in drones, I don’t think this is my thing, but it is surely fascinating to sit “in” the plane and much easier to fly....
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 09, 2018 @ 04:12 PM | 2,014 Views
My Easystar FPV has a problem. I could not get a good picture in the Eachine EV800D goggles. I realized my middle age farsighted eyes could not focus close. Increasing the screen-to-fresnel-lens distance helped. But I still saw double and wanted to keep the neat disassembly feature.

I went and tried some reading glasses. About +1 or +1,5 felt OK for reading. For the goggles, I needed more. I bought one pair of 2,0 and one 2,5 and tried them. I could just manage with 2,5 but it was a strain.

In the end I hot-glued the lenses in series inside the goggle; +4,5 or 5,0? Great! Almost, one issue is when looking into the far corners of the screen, one eye looks in the gap between the lenses so it could be even better.

Now I can relax my eyes and still get a sharp look at the screen, easily identifying individual pixels. Looking forward to try it.

EDIT: UPDATE!
So, I have three flights under my belt with these googles, and while the lenses work fine, after a long flight when I pulled the goggles off to LOS land, I was seeing double for several minutes. So somehow the distance and the focal point does not match up properly. Not really happy with that, considering the LOS landing had to wait a while, depth perception is sort of important. So I need to find a better solution.
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 08, 2018 @ 04:04 PM | 1,840 Views
I got a hull from a friend. Electrics were dead so I threw in some leftovers. Tested in the bathroom sink. Water everywhere. Promising! Since the black hull and orange canopy looked incredibly toyish and plasticky I did my own Pollock with tape and paint. I broke most painting rules
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 07, 2018 @ 03:07 PM | 1,720 Views
So far
* Front brick cut off and remounted as skid
* Front suspension & hubs modded for travel and steering
* Body posts moved to center body over wheelbase
* Locked front diff (cog trick)
* Redesigned wheels using file+ dremel
* Body detailing began with various plastic pieces from kit - air inlet, radiator bar.
* Battery forward mount strap
* Front bumper cut and screwed to rear end
* Ball bearings everywhere

Today I did some weathering of the chassis. Check pics! Paints and eyeshadow. I looked at Dakar videos on Youtube and imagined what the underside would look like .

And I drove the car in freezing winter sun. It bounced and skidded and rolled upside down. Fun!
Posted by KristofferR | Jan 04, 2018 @ 05:35 PM | 2,161 Views
My CC-01 Rally Pajero is getting closer to finish. I eventually gave up the magnet body posts and used conventional ones, when driving on certain surfaces the body would bounce. The body is moved a bit to make the wheels fit better in the wheelhouses. The extra steering angle I managed to carve out was not appreciated by the driveshafts; they sometimes sound awful at full lock. Except for that it runs fine. An interior and roll bar is planned go give it a bit of a scaler look; the Lexan body is not ideal for detailing but I plan on some things like sliding windows, roof vent and tow hooks in addition to the mudflaps.
Posted by KristofferR | Dec 20, 2017 @ 12:05 PM | 3,060 Views
I cobbled together a DIY spray booth using a cardboard box, some kitchen fan filter inserts, tape, plastic kitchen film and a vacuum cleaner. I had the idea and refined it after watching Youtube; in particular
how to build a cheap spray booth airbrush painting secrets (10 min 23 sec)


No paint anywhere; although the solvent fumes came back through the open door after ten minutes so I had to open up everywhere.

Result was a positive surprise, I have not been successful with spray paint in the past, but the Tamiya plastic primer spray was very good to work with. I heated the can in a water bath before starting. I really did enjoy the painting and I can see myself getting more into this.

Made one beginners mistake laying too much on the ”sills” and got some runs on the first car. The paint sort of bounced off the cardboard and ended up 1/2” too high and covered ”double”. Some sanding will be needed.

Next time I will put something under the body to raise it above the bottom of the booth and allow some spray to go underneath.
Posted by KristofferR | Dec 17, 2017 @ 09:07 AM | 1,979 Views
I tried the FPV system on my Easy Star 2. The build was covered in previous posts. The plane flies very well and ”pops” nicely thanks to the carbon pieces.

The setup is a Runcam Eagle 2, an Immersion VTX and the Eachine EV800. Everything worked flawlessly. Since this was my first time with a VTX on a fixed wing - no flight controllers, RTH etc, I did a solid range test before: With the Multiplex TX in range test (LO POW) mode and the VTX on I wandered in circles around the plane and tried different TX antenna angles and all was well.

The EV800 screen sat on a tripod on the ground. I had no spotter and as this was my first try I wanted to focus on flight and picture quality.

One mistake though, as I was going through my mounting options at the bench I ended up putting the camera housing upside down and did not realize until I was on the field.... and did not bring the little programming cable.

Anyway, I hand launched, spent a storage charged 950 pack and landed on the snow.
I found an plane-to-antenna angle that appeared a bit weak and rotated the screen/antenna assembly to eliminate outside influence and the weak spot followed. As the sun was setting I also aimed out and into the sunset and the Runcam did excellent in the varying light.

Since I use a transmitter glove and fingerless gloves, finding the ”holes” in the TX glove after hand launching and getting control takes 1-2 seconds so my second start was done from the ground, piece of cake! The Easy...Continue Reading