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Posted by bluem6 | Dec 03, 2017 @ 07:59 PM | 1,891 Views
Still taking a break from quad stuff so here's another micro rc car. Got this on sale for $36 and it's not too bad. Had to adjust the steering a bit to get the most throw I can from left/right. From factory the trim to the too much to the left and still can't get it perfect but now the turning radius is much better. There is also no need to modify the battery space to accept the 520mah as it fits perfectly. So far there has been no diff issue like I had with the K989 and I've ran it pretty much full throttle on asphalt.

The internal is exactly the same but the remote is way different. The only complaint I have is there seems to be a slight "delay" from the remote and the car. You can definitely tell when you're doing a full throttle and try to turn...not good...

So far, the only modification has been to add LED to the body and it's awesome....however hot glue is just too hot on the body and some area has warped. Will take this mistake and be careful with my next install.

Final thoughts:
Great buy for $36, with higher ride height you can use this on asphalt and some rough terrain without any issue. The K989 has better performance but the Q35 doesn't need a smooth surface to...

...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Nov 09, 2017 @ 12:12 AM | 2,184 Views
Taking a break from quad stuff and just so happen to see this little guy in Youtube. The K989 is currently on sale at HK for $40 shipped from US location so I got one to try. Also wanted to have something small and try FPV on the ground. This little car is fantastic for the price. Yes, it's a brush system but it comes ready to drive. It included a battery (lipo I believe), USB balance charger and remote (look like a clone of the DX3 series).

HK did not send me this product to review, fully purchase from me because it was well Here are some thoughts on the car.

1. Full metal chassis (aluminum)
2. Runtime is pretty good
3. Decent range with remote
4. Receiver seems to be compatible with Lipo, cutoff around 3.4v
5. No steering slop
6. Can adjust to be a 'drifter' with tires and lock diff
7. Great value for the car, parts are cheap...

1. Be careful with the mesh from factory, received mine so tight that the spur gear was getting chew up a bit
2. Motor are extremely hot!!!! (I do not see it last very long with temp this high, will need some kind of extra heatsink or run in cool weather
3. No camber/toe adjustment (but not needed for the price...)
4. Diff can be a hit or miss, mine rear diff is still working but my front ones needed a little TLC. The plastic planetary gear and rings need to be inspect and remove any plastic. A few drop of diff lube, re-tighten the gears and we're good to go again.

1. Extra heatsink to help cooling the motor down. I can actually touch the motor after a run now compare to before, definitely a must..

2. 3D printed larger battery brackets, now I am able to use my 520mah and other larger battery and no more fumbling with tiny clips...

Final thought:
This is a great little car for the value and surprisingly fast for a 1/28 scale. The plan is to add a FPV system somehow without destroying too much of the body so stay tune....
Posted by bluem6 | Sep 24, 2017 @ 09:59 PM | 1,997 Views
My first attempted on a 3S build with 1104 didn't go so well. It was bad choice using 8500kv as it is to high and the motor would heat up to much to handle 3S. The quad (Flying Egg) handle 2S great so I kept it as is. I've recently purchase the Jumper X86 a few weeks ago but the performance is so weak. So I've decided to gut out the motor (1104 7500kv) and see how it would handle on 3S.

My previous KingKong 110GT had 1103 on them and they were decent and have been flying nicely but it's time for another build...


1. Racerstar 10A 2-3S Dshot 600 2in1 (16x16m spacing)
2. F3 flight controller (16x16)
3. 1104 7500kv motors from the Jumper X86
4. KingKong 2840 triblades
5. FrSky SBUS micro receiver
6. 450-850mah 3S
7. AKK A2 200mw AIO

My own "stack", the "red" part is a custom plate since the mounting holes is some weird dimension...Also I need to keep the stack very short or it will not fit once the cover is snap in place.

...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Sep 16, 2017 @ 10:36 PM | 1,886 Views
During the BG 11th sale there were some item that I purchase for pretty cheap (I think). This build is not and advertisement for BG. These are all parts that I have purchased and thought I would throw together a quick low budget build. I had a chance to do a quick maiden last night and surprisingly it's fantastic....

1. Frame - This was purchased through Armattan Production a few months back (~$10)

2. ESC - 4in1 Blheli_s 2-4S purchased through XT-Nite a few months back also ($14)

3. FC - Betaflight 3.1.0 Micro F3 Flight Controller 16x16mm ($6)

4. Motors - DXW DX1306 4000KV ($14)

5. Receiver - Tiny Frsky 8CH Receiver ($6-$7) with SBUS and telemetry

6. Props - Gemfan 3545 ($.01, think I got these when they were HK was having their prop sale)

Total cost so far = $50

To be continued...
Posted by bluem6 | Aug 16, 2017 @ 12:14 AM | 2,606 Views
I've completed another quad. First impression was very disappointing last week. The intention of this build was to use on 3S but going with 1104 8500KV was a mistake. The motor was hot and had so much vibration that tuning was very difficult. The frame came with 2840 tri and these props are pretty awesome in term of sound. They were super quiet and really wanted to use them. So after stripping it down and added more silicon dampener the vibration was almost gone. It was much easier to tune and decided to lower it to 2S instead. I was really surprise that even on 2S it had a lot of to finish the build I wanted to add some AKK AIO.

The distance between the aluminum is too small for any of the AKK that I currently have. The only one that would fit is a micro 800TVL cam that I had for a brush quad similar to this.

The transmitter is a 200mw VTX02 from BG. The problem is trying to fit all of this under the aluminum frame and the only place for the vtx is right behind the camera. There are no mounting holes so hot-glue to the rescue....just hoping that the vtx does not get hot enough to melt the glue.

Here it is completed..might change the jst to xt30 later on when new Tattu battery arrive.....

...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Jul 15, 2017 @ 07:23 PM | 3,077 Views
Back from vacation and currently in the process of building a 3S build with the KingKong 110GT. It's a cool looking frame with the plastic cover that protects most of the electronics.

Part's list:

1. 1103 8000kv (got a few of these when they were on sale and have been discontinued)

2. 4in1 ESC (got these on sale also for $11, highly doubt they are 20A 4S though....)

3. AIO VTX02 ($18)

4. Gens ace 520mAh 11.1V 30C ($7.72)

5. GF 3025 (these have been my favorite and very well balance and produce the least amount of vibration, will need to cut these as a full blade is too heavy on 3S and will cause the motor to get very hot....)

6. FrSky SBUS receiver

7. Revo F4 Micro (these have also been discontinued on BG, got them for $7)

Looking over the frame the main issue seems to be the mounting holes for the flight controller. The spacing is Not 20x20 but rather 19x26.5. There is not a lot of frame to drill holes for 20x20 and the only option I see is build a plate on top of that....

Another issue is the 4in1 esc that I have. I got these from GB when they were on sale but the hole spacing is not 3mm, more like 2mm and you cannot use metal screw. Two of them are for the positive rail and the other one for the negative....

Some ideas for the FC plate:

To be continued......................................... ....
Posted by bluem6 | Jun 26, 2017 @ 11:35 PM | 4,588 Views
My Hellbender 122 back from the dead. The other day during maiden it took a tumble and found out ESC1 was completely destroy and motor. I have no clue as what happened but after a few day of troubleshooting I still could not find the cause. So after a few visit to Dr. "Hakko" found not only the esc/motor was bad but the flight controller as well. Signal pin was shorted to ground for some reason and there was no visible traces of burn component on the flight controller. To be on the safe side, I decided to elevate the ESC off the carbon fiber frame a bit more so that + and - was not touching the carbon fiber. Electrical tape and wrap on those pins and rewrap to the arms. But doing so leave no room for the rear arm to hold the ESC and the motor wires. The wires are now 90 degree from the arm. This is probably one of my uglier build but at this point I just want it to fly lol. I did a quick maiden in the garage and a few punch out and so far so good....

Build parts:
1. Hellbender 122 frame (nice looking frame, different from my X frame with a little more room to work)
2. RacerStar 15A esc (I know why they discontinue these, the throttle range is not the greatest...especially around mid point. Even the older
LittleBee is better then these ESC)
3. Emax 1306 4000kv (these are some of the smoothest 1306 motors I have tried, the bearing and even at max throttle on 4S it has very little
vibration. No wonder they cost an arm and a leg...probably...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Jun 24, 2017 @ 09:44 PM | 4,130 Views
Running into some bad luck lately with FPV quads.

My favorite quad, the 100mm, has been down for a few days now due to an 'intermittent' dropout issue. First though it was a "loose" motor wire, apparently not because it is still dropping out of the sky at random. Thought it was a motor issue, nope...flight controller, nope. Looks like the issue is with the ESC but not just one, all 3 decided to die on me at different time. Yank all of the XM10A and threw it in the trash and replace it with LittleBee I had laying around. Seems to fix the it's flying not as "nice" as it was before and noob me did not copy the PID down before I decided to reflash the Piko BLX. It's flying okay but not the way I like it, not 'tracking' around corners as it was before. Did try to tune it a big yesterday but getting this stupid weird issue when I do a slow/large bank. Like it's 'auto' correcting itself. Come to find out the the XT60 connector might have been flapping and hitting the battery/frame...ran out of time to troubleshoot/fly so for now it sit and wait...

Second FPV quad is a 147 Verdin and after an 'upgrade' with a RunCam swift and vtx it flies like a drift does not like the pod and the extra weight...haven't had time to tune it so it also sit and wait....

Finished a HellBender 122 with RacerStar 15A (discontinued) and it flew great until a small drop and ESC1 clue why. Replace it and test it with 3S and 4S before taking it to the park yesterday. Two minutes into LOS flight to double check and down it goes. Manage to retrieve it and the whole thing is up in smoke. Look like ESC3 burst in flame. What the h***..............can it get worst???

So, my only flyable one are the Eachine 130, HobbyMate 130 and Micro. The Eachine 130 is a little under power and the HobbyMate need to go on a diet (I think) so my Micro is the only one that I fly and actually like at this point. Not a good month...........and getting frustrated with FPV...

Posted by bluem6 | Jun 13, 2017 @ 11:56 PM | 3,844 Views
It has been a few months now that I have flown the micro but it's back and better now. The issue I had before was then when I bank more then 30 degrees the quad would get this "weird" jerk or pull until I level it out again. Initial guess was that one of the esc had die when I try dshot 600 which took out the flight controller. The flight controller was replace and this new weird issue start popping up. There it sat in the garage for a few months as I had other quads to repair.

So...on Saturday night I decide to dissemble it and swap out the 4in1 esc and also wanted to swap the frame after watching Albert Kim video about a new 3d printed frame that he print out. After the disassembly I notice that one of the motor wire was cinched and it look like it was barely making a connection. Wait....was this the problem...YES!!! Bingo, spent the whole night rewiring all of the motor wires and got it maiden in the morning and I with the 'silicon ring' as dampening for the fc there was no drift at all...

Got to test it the other night and yep, no weird jerk when banking....only downside was the prop had to be cut a little more so it can swing freely without touching the aio vtx....really loving flying this thing on 2S and faster then the Eachine 130 on 3S.....

RIAC105 for 20x20

Posted by bluem6 | Jun 05, 2017 @ 11:52 PM | 4,510 Views
Here's my review of the HobbyMate X130 Kit thanks to HobbyMate of course. This build went very smooth, no issue with the fitment of the parts and and the carbon fiber is pretty good. There was no "black" residue on the edges however you might want to sand it down a bit to smooth out the edges especially where the battery strap goes through.

1. ESC in my opinion is the "star" of this kit, it's very small and support BLHeli_S Dshot 150/300/600 (no need to worry about calibration if you're using Dshot)
2. 4S capable
3. Frame is built for FPV, the addition of a "pod" is great and pretty much the norm now..
4. Frame, good quality and no alignment issue, everything came together like it should.
5. Motors are very smooth so far, no "grinding" noise from the motor and really surprise they can take 4S on triblade (will find out later...)
6. Accessories (plenty of motor mount screws, enough to use for another kit....)
7. Kit came with extra 3030 triblade props

1. Battery strap, not really liking these battery strap and don't feel they hold the battery in tight enough during a crash
2. The motor wires, they're definitely too small in my opinion. Even my "budget" RacerStar motor has thicker wire then these but will it affect performance, not sure....
3. No flight controller with kit however it really depends on the type of builder you are. Some would prefer to source their own some might want a simple...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Jun 05, 2017 @ 04:40 AM | 4,471 Views
I've received this bag thanks to Colcase for review. First impression is that it's small compare to my other lipo bag but was very surprise on how many batteries it can hold. The product look very good, no visible tears or loose thread.

COLCASE Lipo Safe Bag

*FIREPROOF EXPLOSIONPROOF SAFE BAG Inner surface was made of supreme fire retardant fiberglass nylon. 100% Fire Proof Guarantee ! Stands up
against fire and heat up to 1000 ℉(550 ℃).
*NO FIBERGLASS ANNOY Outer surface was painted with Fire retardant coating, no glass fiber will annoy anymore
*2-SLIDER ZIPPER Double-slider zipper make the lipo safe bag well sealed and convenient to use.
*SAFEGUARD LIPO BAG This flame retardant bag is a convenient way of safeguarding your Lipo batteries during charging, transit, and storage
*LARGE SPACE Enough space to place multiple batteries at once (about 15-20 pcs 2200mah 3S Lipo batteries) 198x150x135mm.

Comparison between the old lipo bag and the new one:

Warning label in the back:
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Posted by bluem6 | Jun 04, 2017 @ 06:25 PM | 4,377 Views
My micro quads family so far. All except for the Spadger 150mm...not sure why it didn't make it in the family picture lol. The top is a Verdin 147 and about half of them have been converted for FPV...

Verdin 147
Armattan 130 MRP
Fubar 130
Minimalist 130
Edge 100

Forgot to mention, the Fubar 130mm has RIP. About a month ago it took a tumble into the weed and was not found until two weeks later. One of the arm was cracked and I think the issue was the XT60 connector solder joint was loose. Since there was no power to the quad, the buzzer did not work and making it extremely difficult to locate in the field....

Lesson learn, do not 'hot glue' the power connector to the 4in1 esc. Loose is better so it can move without ripping the trace of the solder pads...
Posted by bluem6 | May 25, 2017 @ 01:49 AM | 4,311 Views
My first FPV video....been about 5 weeks now (I think). Still repairing almost after every time but nothing major so far and loving the freedom to go the whole

Edge 100mm FPV (6 min 52 sec)

Posted by bluem6 | May 07, 2017 @ 09:41 PM | 4,696 Views
It has been about a month now flying FPV instead of LOS and all I can say is, it's so Going behind trees, way high up and around the whole golf course...something that I was not able to do before with LOS. I've converted two of my quads info FPV. They're "ok" for LOS but flying the Edge 100mm with FPV is fantastic and since switching over to FPV I have been flying purely acro.

At this point, flying FPV is a lot more "expensive". So far I have gone through two AIO from broken antenna/pcb/camera and not to mention lots of broken

My next build will be a Hellbender 204 and this will be my first with an OSD...looking forward to trying FPV on a larger quad...

Posted by bluem6 | Apr 19, 2017 @ 11:07 PM | 5,249 Views
Finally got my 2S up and running again.....only had a few minutes to tune it so hopefully should be 100% over the weekend.

1. Frame: The frame printed great and very rigid with Taulman 910 but the designer did not address how to mount the dang battery...after many hours staring at it, velcro, tape, etc...decided to make it easy and just add a tiny 'hook' like on the Martian 95mm. Strip it down and alter the frame a bit to accept the motor wires better and two tiny hook on the side for the rubber band.

2. RacerStar 4in1 6A ESC: Something went wrong here, no idea but when I switch over to D-shot 130 to try it "fry" channel 1 on the PikoBLX clone. No clue what happen...took a few hour to narrow it down the the flight controller. No clue what happen...

3. Props: For some reason, maybe the frame or maybe props out of balance but a few test flight either pull the quad to the left when full throttle or it would develop a "drift" about about 30 second of hovering. Sometimes it would intermittently shot right to the roof but only on quick throttle up/down. Cutting it at different length did not help either....switch out for a KingKong props I had laying around and no issue. I just don't like how it fly with it so as a last resort put back my original props (3020 cutdown) and it's perfectly fine now...Seems like it's very sensitive to vibration or something..

4. VTX antenna protection: $25 lesson learn here, protect the antenna or else if it breaks and you try to re-solder it back be careful as there is a veryyyyyyyy tiny 'chip' that is near the center pin of the coxial....the VTX does not work well without it, only getting maybe 2 feet of good reception if that tiny thing is missing...

I know, the zip ties is uneven but I just wanted to get it done...haha...will fix it later when I know it has been flying okay. As a side note I have been flying acro 80% of the time and it's great, more crash but still
Posted by bluem6 | Apr 09, 2017 @ 09:17 PM | 5,417 Views
So for the past 2 weeks I have been getting into FPV with my Martian 95mm Micro until it broke. I am really digging this, this is really fun so far and here are some comparison between FPV and LOS:

1. FPV has a lot more crashes (so far lol), broken propellers, antenna missing, ESC/motor lead rip off...this could be because I am new and on acro
2. FPV=freedom ,no longer do I need to worry about where the quad is going just need to remember which way is 'home' lol.
3. PID tuning is so different, every little change affect how it fly/vibrate in the air...
4, For now, battery life has improve (no where as fast as LOS flying)

Over the weekend I flew my Edge 100mm outfitted with a TX03...all I can say is I can't wait for next weekend so I can fly again lol.

I've transplant the gut of the Martin 95 to a BEE-90 and that was a mistake. It does not have any mounting option so the FC has to be double side tape on and that's a no no with the piko clone. Without "dampening" material the vibration coming to the FC makes it un-flyable no matter the this is it's new frame below (waiting for AIO to arrive)..

Surprising this is a very strong frame, much stronger then the Martian or the Bee-90. I had some Taulman 910 filament left over and the frame came out very nice, strong...but only time will tell if it will hold up.
Posted by bluem6 | Mar 19, 2017 @ 11:37 AM | 5,742 Views
Finally completed a micro FPV after waiting for a set of replacement motors from BG.

No build log this time...waiting so long for the replacement motors that I just want to finish and try out FPV.

Will get some more photos/video later on this week...

Posted by bluem6 | Jan 21, 2017 @ 01:27 AM | 6,639 Views
Since everyone is into FPV these days lol...want to see what the fuss is all about. My guess is I will probably end up getting motion sickness a couple of minutes into it but the fun for me is the build. So....with that said, I see a micro fpv indoor build coming up. How about a brushless "whoop"?? I went through the 1103 thread and saw this design and thought I would give it a try.

Here's the plan:

Tiny Whoop Brushless by BdejaN

RacerStar 1103 10000KV

RacerStar 4in1 6A ESC

...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Jan 11, 2017 @ 09:37 PM | 6,342 Views
Getting smaller and smaller.... This time it's on an Edge 100x frame and trying out my first micro FC. Most of the time was spend staring at the frame, trying this and that to see what I have that will fit on this tiny frame. Decided to go with ZTW 18A esc (use) that I had laying around. Big mistake. After a couple of flight and tweaking BLHeli the motor start smoking. Either the ESC were defective or the "demag compensation" was messing with it.....smoke right when I try connecting to it with BLHeli suite. Decided to scrap the ESC as well along with the motor....

The only other ESC that will fit nicely that I had laying around was the DYS XM10A but only 3S capable. These ESC are so much better, no more "jump" issue when arming and the the min throttle is so much smoother and lower then the ZTW. I only wish I had order more when they were on sale from HK..

Part's list:

Frame: Hack this frame to remove the four corner since I am not using a 30mmx30mm FC. Dremel made quick work.

Mock up of frame with FC and after dremel work...

Motors: RacerStar 1306 4000kv (discontinued I believe)

Motor before soldering to ESC
...Continue Reading
Posted by bluem6 | Jan 09, 2017 @ 09:48 PM | 6,524 Views
Getting ready to wrap up my Edge 100x build and wanted to post a few correction regarding this clone from BG. I've only had about 4 flight but so far so good. The information on BG is incorrect especially the wiring of the ESC so make sure you check before you release the magic smoke

CleanFlight & BetaFlight Micro F3 Flight Controller Built-in PDB Buzzer Port 20X20mm For FPV Racing

There are 2 correction to the image posted on BG. ESC3 and ESC1 battery pin are incorrect and should be reverse. Both outer pad should be black/negative/ground and the inner pads are positive. Second the buzzer pins are also incorrect and should be reverse. The pin nearest the USB connector should be negative.

I've order it in November so I am not sure if they have updated it since then but be careful when wiring this up. Use a multimeter to check the ESC battery pins before you solder it up...

Corrected diagram: