Rajah235's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by Rajah235 | Mar 20, 2013 @ 07:58 AM | 2,926 Views
I eventually found this site that has a selection of small machine screws, nuts
& self tappers.
They specialise in model trains, repairs, kits, tools, drills & bits 'n' pieces.
> http://www.dccconcepts.com/index_files/DCCcontact.htm

I ordered & received some 1.4mm x 8 mm self tappers & 1.5mm x 10mm
M/C screws + nuts to mount the 250GT mixing arms (1 : 1.8 ratio), onto the stock 9116 blade assy.

See pics...

The other supplier has some "Jewellers" micro taps & dies.

They range from .7mm to 2.0mm.
They may cut the thread on the stainless steel push rods but not sure.
They work fine on brass rod.
> http://www.gemcuts.com.au/prod2601.htm

I bought a set to try them out.
Posted by Rajah235 | Feb 27, 2013 @ 12:12 PM | 2,644 Views
Hi guys 'n' gals,
Well, for some un-known to me reason, the S 16D motor will not perform as I expected in the 9116.
Possibly due to the fact that it's designed to run on 12 volts,
where-as the crappy stock motor is a 7.4 volt motor & we're chucking up to 8.4 volts into it.....
(See below for more recent info.)

The bench test of both at various voltages gave the same results, re; the current drawn & the RPM's they ran at.

I'm surprised that it didn't perform as expected, given those results.

So, I'd advise you to use either the AFC Systems BB 180 "A" or "B" motor or the Xtreme180 Pro "A" or "B" motors.
Either one will do, as they are the same, save for the pinion positions..
They both come in pairs & have "replaceable brush assy's" (of a sort & hard to find at a reasonable price)
& have ball bearings, but the AFC 180 BB "A" & "B" motors are a little cheaper.

There are still a couple of us looking for a good, fully serviceable replacement.
It just hasn't been found yet.

Now.....Where did I leave my hat?
Salt & pepper anyone? Maybe a little BBQ sauce will help?

ps. At least now I have a great slot car motor if I ever get back into it.
Fully re-balanced & sounds as sweet as at 50,000 RPM.

[edited 2nd March 2013]
For those that are interested in the original motor specs....
This is as close to, if not our beastie, that I can find after many...Continue Reading
Posted by Rajah235 | Feb 21, 2013 @ 04:15 AM | 3,365 Views
Here are the step-by-step mods for the S 16D motors.
I hope they are clear enough.
All up, it should only take about a one hour or so, depending on what tools you have available & your dexterity.
(No offence meant or intended, coz I know that you're all more than capable..)

1/. I always mark the end bell's original position in the can. Just a small scratch mark on both.

2/. Remove the brushes. (I mark the top of each with a small screwdriver & note the +ve & -ve brush. This is not necessary but I like to keep things organised.)
2a/. Spin the armature & note where it centres in the magnetic field.
(A tad more on this, later.)

3/. You'll need a 1.5 mm allen key to remove the 4 motor/end bell screws.
3a/. Remove the end bell & take note of the insulating washer's position.
It's there to stop the commutator from short circuiting & must go on FIRST when re-assembling the motor.

4/. On a solid flat surface, very carefully, (& from the outside), remove the bronze bush from the end bell, using only hand pressure.
(No need for the sledge hammer yet, but you can tap it out with a small hammer, if necessary.)
I used a small -ve, (flat), jewellers screwdriver applied all around to pop it out.

5/. The can end bronze bush can be tapped out using a jewellers screwdriver that just fits inside the bush.

6/. Using the same jewellers screwdriver, insert the ball bearing into the end bell.
It's just a very neat press fit. Make sure it'...Continue Reading
Posted by Rajah235 | Feb 12, 2013 @ 02:02 PM | 2,204 Views
"We just want the facts M'am." Dum dee dum dumm. (Dragnet theme.)

The "A" motor is the one with the pinion further on the motor shaft. (Confirmed.)
Not knowing the configuration of the heli they fit...I don't know which one drives what spur gear. ie; Upper or lower?

There are no arrows/marks etc on either.
The only differences are the pinion positions & the +ve & -ve leads are reversed.

The "A" motor. C/W rotation from the pinion end.
Ticks over at .24 volt @ .42 Amps.
1.0 volt = .48 Amps.
1.5 volts = .5 Amps.
2.0 volts = .52 Amps.
2.5 volts = .55 Amps.
3.0 volts = .57 Amps.
3.5 volts = .57 Amps.
4.0 volts = .57 Amps.
4.5 volts = .57 Amps.
5.0 volts = .54 Amps.
6.0 volts = .53 Amps.
7.0 volts = .53 Amps.

Stalled current at 1 volt (running & manually stopped) = 2.4 Amps.
....".........."........."..2 volts......"................"............"........ = 3.2 Amps.

The "B" motor. CCW rotation from the pinion end.
Ticks over at .2 volt @ .40 Amps.
1.0 volt = .55 Amps.
1.5 volts = .60 Amps.
2.0 volts = .62 Amps.
2.5 volts = .65 Amps.
3.0 volts = .65 Amps.
3.5 volts = .66 Amps.
4.0 volts = .67 Amps.
4.5 volts = .67 Amps.
5.0 volts = .67 Amps.
6.0 volts = .69 Amps.
7.0 volts = .66 Amps.

Stalled current at 1 volt (running & manually stopped) = 2.25 Amps.
....".........."........."..2 volts.....".................."................"... . = 4.4 Amps.

& the relative RPM's of each?.......They sounded about the same.
(I'm not going to mention what voltage I got them up to though.)

Surprising results from the "A" motor. The "B" motor sounded so much sweeter at the (not posted)......"slightly" higher voltages.

The 1st image shows the differences between the S 16D brushes/springs & the tiny 180's.

NB: The 180 BB's have a leading & trailing brush assy. on both motors.
Posted by Rajah235 | Feb 02, 2013 @ 07:26 AM | 2,886 Views
Hi guys 'n' gals,

For those that are interested, a new un-modded heli weighs in at 234.3 gms or at least, mine did.

On to the good stuff...
I just received the spare "internal plastic frames" set & decided to see how the Super 16D would fit.
I made up a ~2mm thick spacer to fit under the motor, so that it sits level with the top of the recess. (The 180 sits in this recess, as you know.)
The S16D is mounted at 90 Degs to the original but this makes changing brushes easy.
Gee. You never thought you'd read that for a 9116, did you?

I had to scrounge through my small self tappers box to find some that would not touch/foul the armature winding but just large enough to hold the motor.
I also had to elongate the frame's original mounting holes (inwards), a tad but it fits real nice.

I haven't installed it in my heli as yet but it looks like I'll only have to modify/remove a small portion from both the "angled side plates"
to accommodate the slightly wider girth of the S16D.

The pics show how much "overhang" it has in more detail. Only about 2mm both sides but requiring the side plate mod/cut/slicing 'n dicing a tad.

More to follow......soon, I hope.

I encountered a slight glitch.

One of the old 16D's that I picked up has an 8 tooth pinion, which I duly removed.
I tried it on the new S16D & oh horrors....it slid onto the shaft. (Well, it was a solder on type, after all. Strange but true.)
Naturally, you cannot solder to these...Continue Reading
Posted by Rajah235 | Jan 17, 2013 @ 10:05 AM | 2,218 Views
Hi guys 'n' gals,

Here's the post regarding the details on the Super 16 D motors...

> https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...7#post23830662

They do look very promising.
Posted by Rajah235 | Jan 17, 2013 @ 09:05 AM | 3,241 Views
Hi guys 'n' gals,
I starting this blog with the 1st small mod that I thought of to fix the servo arm slide.

Just made a small plastic washer & super glued it to the push rod.
Image #1.
Seems to work quite well. (But see servo mod below.)

I've also taken up Mike's suggestion, of the thin plastic washers on both sides of the main blades. (Image snagged from his blog...) Thank you Mike.
Image #3.

I added one or 2 very thin ones to the blade gripper assy to reduce the lateral movement of the blades.
Image #2.

I later replaced the standard servo with a Turnigy 1440A, because of the arm flexure problem & bought 2 Dubro # 929 .047" ball sockets.
I also bought a 1 mm x 300 mm long brass rod for the push rod.
You'll only need ~12 mm of it.
These were duly fabricated, fitted & function extremely well.
Images #4, #5, #6.

Steve posted a really great suggestion on how to keep the Tx display lit up.
I carried out the reasonably quick mod & found it very easy to accomplish.
Image #7.

Regarding the reliability problems associated with these cheap main motors & the brush assy in general,
I took a closer look at them. (Thanks to Steve's image of his destroyed motor.)
The brushes appear to be mounted at 90 Degs to their pre-shaped contact surface.
Image #8.

I also bought a 28mm diam. Alloy heat sink & had to bend it slightly to fit the 180 motor & trim a little angled bit off the bottom to fit correctly.
The 28mm one is more suited for this than the...Continue Reading