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Posted by hifinsword | Sep 06, 2016 @ 03:15 PM | 1,779 Views
GENERAL DISCUSSION
The manufacturer's recommended Center of Gravity (CG) is a good starting point, not the ending point. You don't pick a CG point and make it balance there. You balance your plane and find out where that point is. The "ideal CG" is that CG which achieves hands-off straight and level flight with no trim to the control surfaces.

A designer designs their aircraft around a datum line. That line is usually level with the horizontal stabilizer (HS), or more accurately, the horizontal stabilizer is usually level with the datum line. You usually won't find a datum line on the retailer's description so you will have to use the horizontal stabilizer as a substitute. If the plane has no HS, you can use the wing chord, or draw a line from the wing's leading edge to its trailing edge.

CAUTION:
The CG must stay forward of the Center of Lift (CL). As your CG gets closer to the CL, the CG range becomes smaller. Small adjustments to CG will make a larger difference to how the plane flies with less tolerance on where your plane will balance. How do you know where the CL is? Unless it is published, you won't. But it usually won't be forward of the mid-wing position. If your CG is close to this point, be careful on the maiden and be ready to abort during rollout if the plane exhibits any pitch-up early during the rollout.

FINDING CG
To find CG, put the battery in your plane and balance it. Move the battery till the plane's HS is level. If you have put...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Aug 28, 2016 @ 12:02 PM | 1,918 Views
EDIT: 11/23/2016 revision

This thread deals with the E-flite 1.2M Mk XIV Spitfire.

The next 2 Posts deal with CURVE mixes and NORMAL mixes available on some Txs.

CURVE MIXES to neutralize the pitch-up in the AR636A SAFE SELECT Rx in the E-flite 1.2M Spitfire

POST #1 only deals with CURVE mixes.
POST #2 deals with NORMAL mixes.

I originally posted a CURVE MIX in POST 1078 found here in the "E-flite Spitfire MK XIV 1.2m BNF Basic" thread. It is a CURVE Mix designed to neutralize the tendency of the AR636A SAFE Select Rx to pitch-up the Spitfire as the throttle is increased. The AR636A is found in the E-flite 1.2M Spitfire and others. I only have the AR636A in my Spitfire and cannot relate how these mixes will affect other planes with the AR636A.

SAFE ON; SAFE OFF:
Originally I thought I would only need a mix with SAFE SELECT ON, but it was apparent that a SAFE SELECT OFF MIX was also needed to neutralize tendency of the plane to climb as throttle is increased. It is not clear to me if the AS3X programming or the SAFE programming in the AR636A, or both is/are what is inducing the pitch-up effect. The 2 separate CURVE MIXES below are my SAFE SELECT ON & SAFE SELECT OFF CURVE mixes to counter the AR636A's pitch-up effect inflight.

WIND:
I have decided to drop the windy day part of the mixes, and use them instead of the values for no wind. When I flew today, 23 Nov 2016, I found the windy day values did better than the no wind values. There was almost no...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 29, 2015 @ 02:36 PM | 6,504 Views
This is my build of the PZ F4U-1A Corsair PNP (PKZ6075) version. The BNF is PKZ6080. The kit version is PKZ6070.
Link: http://www.horizonhobby.com/f4u-1a-corsair-pnp-pkz6075

MAJOR POINTS
- 1) Discontinued
This model has been discontinued. It is one of the best looking RC Corsair models in my opinion. As of late 2016, parts are still available.
- 2) Three-section flaps
This model is set up for scale-like 3 section flaps as did the real Corsair. You must add the servos yourself but everything else is there in place.
- 3) Rectractable LG
The LG mounts are already molded in place and the wires are installed for retractable landing gear (LG) as well. You just need to buy and install Retractable LG.

I hope to find this blog useful to follow its progress as I mod it. I also find having my planes on my blog helpful to quickly retrieve facts about them. This was my Christmas present for 2015. It was bought from ReadyMadeRC.com on sale for $124.99. On 27 Dec 2015 I started putting it together and finished in about 7 hours, including the flaps but not the retractable LG.

DATA
- ParkZone F4U-1A Corsair PNP
- Wingspan 44in 1120mm
- Length 36.0in 915mm
- Weight 43.4oz 1230g w/drop tanks;
- Weight 46.6oz 1320g w/retracts/flaps 30A ESC w/flaps hardware, retract-ready, tanks installed
- Servos used for flaps are TowerPro MG-90
- Battery used for COG measurements - 11.1V 3S 2200mAh 25C LiPo
- Motor - 15-sized 950Kv BL motor (PKZ5116 15 BL Motor)

GENERAL NOTES
The build...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2015 @ 03:33 PM | 7,530 Views
Main discussion thread here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1540050

My Experiences:
After reading the main discussion thread on this Dynam SBach 342, it was obvious some mods would be needed to get it right for flying. But I'm not the type that typically cuts into brand new airplanes and starts over with new parts. I prefer to take the slow road and replace parts as they break or wear out.

On this one I did a little of both. On the maiden flight my pilot ejected 3 times. A close inspection revealed the canopy only had 1 pair of magnets in place. The 3 in the canopy were there but the 2 matching magnets on the side rails were missing. My pilot also didn't fare well on the ejections so a mod was required to keep her in her seat.

On the 2nd flight the plane hit a divit (grass field landing) and the gear came off during rollout. Except for some small dents under the wing where the LG hit on the way off, and of course the foam tear where the gear used to be, there was no damage.

On the 3rd flight the left AIL came back jammed in the down position. That was fun getting her safely on deck with half flaps (pun), i.e. full down, but on only 1 side.

The fuselage was modded prior to flying by covering as much as possible with clear packing tape. That included the plastic cowling, which got a layer of Extreme packing tape inside and clear on the outside. By some accounts, it is prone to breakage and not be in stock very often.

Where to buy:
NitroPlanes....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 13, 2015 @ 01:49 PM | 6,911 Views
TABLE OF CONTENTS
POST 1 - Dynam Rapid STATS, WHERE TO BUY, OTHER THREADS
POST 2 - Dynam Rapid Parts and alternate sources
POST 3 - Dynam Rapid Receiver and Stabilization systems
POST 4 - Dynam Rapid batteries
POST 5 - Transmitter (Tx) settings
POST 6 - Dynam Rapid Landing Gear, Wheels, Pants
POST 7 - Cowling and forward fuselage battery compartment modification
POST 8 - Dynam Rapid motor mount mod
POST 9 - Dynam Rapid Assembly
POST 10 - Dynam Rapid landing gear mod
POST 11 - WHEN COMPLETE, Dynam Rapid Flight Testing

What this plane is not:
I was looking for a small plane (under 30in wingspan) so I could fly around the yard without going to the park. This is not that plane. It is fast and not that easy to land in a small space. The motor is a peppy 1500Kv BL motor. The recommended battery is oversize for this small an airplane at 3S 11.1V 850mAh. It has unlimited vertical and amazing acceleration. This is a park flyer and not a back yard flyer unless your backyard is acres and acres of land.

What this plane is:
I already have the UMX E-flite Carbo Cub SS, but I was hoping for something I could yank and bank a little more in that small size class. This Dynam Rapid is that type of plane! It is also sturdy enough to take a hit. I've been flying planes for a year so I also didn't want a small profile requiring a lot of cutting and gluing CF rods. I wanted a plane that is fairly simple and easy to assemble. This is that. It goes together quickly and easily.

Comparisons:
I've...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 09, 2014 @ 09:13 AM | 13,337 Views
POST 1 - Table of Contents (also protocols, frequencies, modulation types)
POST 2 - Various Protocols used in RC
POST 3 - The 2 major channel sequences
POST 4 - Walkera protocol
POST 5 - FrSky protocol
POST 6 - FlySky protocol
POST 7 - DSM2 & DSMX (Spektrum) protocols
POST 8 - Futaba protocol
POST 9 - KN protocol
POST 10 - HiSky protocol
POST 11 - IIX protocol
POST 12 - Various MicroChips used for RC in the 2.4MHz band
POST 13 - Cheerson (YD717 protocol)
POST 14 - Miscellaneous stuff that may or may not help


BACKGROUND:
I have tried to write this thread for others like me, i.e. non-geeks or non-hackers. I use that term affectionately. I admire the ability to understand software code and write it. And I admire those that understand electricity and how to wire things with diodes, transitors, etc. so they will do whatever you want. I have very little understanding of writing code or how to do much software installation unless it is written very plainly in English and in great detail. Wiring diagrams help very little unless they are very basic, but I really need actual pictures. I can solder enough to change out a battery terminal, but not much more. As I pick up bits & pieces of info here and there I will add it to my blog here.

GENERAL STUFF:
PROTOCOLS, FREQUENCY BANDS & MODULATION TYPES

1. Protocols: Protocols have to do with how signals are formatted. Each protocol has its differences in the signal's format. Protocols are...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jul 22, 2014 @ 11:58 AM | 7,347 Views
This is a short description of types of foam used in the RC hobby. I've also included a link to a great forum for foam suppliers.

Foam suppliers. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...11&postcount=2

Types of Foam

Depron - very light weight, brittle; NOT contact cement safe. DO NOT use Welders Adhesive or forms of contact cement with Depron. The only glues I have used with this and with EPS foam that don't dissolve them is Gorilla Glue and the Foam-Safe CAs. Recently I've even found that too much Foam-Tac, or Foam-Tac covered in a restricted spot on a surface will generate gases that dissolve EPS/Depron. Don't cover Foam-Tac with tape or a covering immediately after applying it, if it does not have the ability to let the gas off. I have recently heard of a new glue that is safe on EPS/Depron. It's Loctite Go2 Glue. I haven't tried it but will the first chance I get. Home Depot carries it. It's cheap and flexible, 2 important features I find attractive. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-1...4417/203437879

Elapor - blended EPS & EPP

EPO (Expanded Polyolefine) - Horizon Hobby (HH) calls their form of EPO, Z-foam. Takes clear packing tape well. OK to use regular CA.

EPE (Expanded Polyethelene)

EPP Expanded Polypropylene - (pool noodles) low structural strength; covers with low temp coverings; clear packing or shipping tape does NOT stick to very well; use a spray adhesive or FoamTac with 3M Blenderm, fiberglass tape (drywall type), NexCare, a clear surgical tape...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 10, 2014 @ 03:45 PM | 7,858 Views
Recharging LiPo batteries - the 80% rule applies to the storage capacity or AMPERAGE of the BATTERY, NOT THE VOLTAGE of a battery. For a 1500mAh battery that means it should not be discharged more than 1200mAh (0.8x1500 = 1200, or 80% of 1500mAh). You won't know that until you recharge the battery with a charger capable of showing you that, or you have a meter capable of reading those values before charging. A good charger will tell you how many mAh it took to completely recharge the battery back to 4.2 volts per cell. It should then be at the full capacity of 1500mAh.

A good rule of thumb to use for how far to discharge or fly a battery, is the nominal voltages associated with each cell, i.e. 3.7 volts per cell. If you don't go below 3.7 volts per cell, you won't hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) and damage your LiPo battery. Go below the LVC and you will most likely be putting back more than the 80% amp carrying capacity of your battery - NOT GOOD!

If you think you will be staying with this hobby, I recommend buying a quality BALANCE charger and stop using the cheap stock chargers that come with most RTF, ARF & BNF combos. They are OK in a pinch or on a trip where you don't want to carry a full blown charging setup. I won't recommend a charger or brand. New ones come out all the time but a good place to start is searching RCGs, or go to sites such as John Salt's for suggestions. http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html

I have found that new batteries will...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 28, 2014 @ 03:41 PM | 8,542 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

I am using the FX067C/FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly on both my V913s currently. One is on a raised and extended CF tail boom. The other is on a stock metal V913 tail boom.

UPDATE: FWIW as of 4/12/2016, the FX052 tail motor on my Bird #1 has 65 flights. Eight of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries. Bird #2's FX052 tail motor has 68 flights on it. Nine of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries.

The FX052 tail main and pinion gear sizes, and gear ratio allows the tail motor to work more efficiently than the stock V913 tail motor gears. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor.

I feel the FX052 tail motor gives me better tail control. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly needs to be shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here on Page 161 Post 2404: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2404

To use the FX052 tail motor most effectively you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts (screw holes) and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. The FX052 tail motor pinion gear is too large to fit thru the opening of the V913 gear housing. If you only want to use the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 06:08 AM | 8,946 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

These are the mods made to my #1 V913.

1) Swashplate mod. Hot glue and paper clip mod discussed in detail here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2139667
The new Heli-Factor aluminum swashplate (and main rotor hub & main blade holder) are discussed in my blog here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2258539

2) A new extended carbon fiber (CF) tail boom with raised tail motor mount was installed to be parallel with main motor shaft.
Boom and reinforcements to angle are CF tube and strips. The tail boom was extended about 1 inch, has 1mm thick sidewalls and is 10mm in diameter. The CF reinforcing strips are 4mm wide and 0.6mm thick. Horizontal stabilizing rods and vertical fins were removed initially but were reinstalled after about 5 months to deal with stress fractures. The torque from the tail motor twisting the CF boom resulted in stress fractures starting to show up.

I reinforced the stress fractures with dental floss wrapped around the boom and CA'd in place with thin CA.

More details are discussed in my "IDEA" blog entry on "Swapping the V913 tail motor & gear assembly for the FX052 tail motor & gear assembly" here.

3) Tail motor and gear assembly are from the Feilun FX052 helicopter. Some more info can be found here in...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 04, 2014 @ 07:03 AM | 8,932 Views
EDIT 4/11/2016: I did a review of the Heli-Factor aluminum upgrades here.

Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on the main V913 forum. Those with much more knowledge than I have will be better able to help. The link is here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676


I have included this Post also as Post # 28 in my BLOG entry, "WL Toys V913 helicopter Reference Source". Link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2255975

Update: As of August 2014, Heli-Factor has the aluminum upgrades to the V913 swashplate. It is available thru HobbyDirect. Also available are an Aluminum Main Blade holder and a Rotor Head or Hub.
Aluminum upgrade swashplate link:http://www.hobby-direct.com/v913-cnc...late_g371.html

If you haven't modded the V913 swashplate, the odds are you will sooner or later, or give up flying the V913. This is a "MUST DO MOD" in order to fly the V913. I've tried to consolidate the most popular ones here for future reference.

1) The ever popular paper clip + hot glue mod by nmemennth
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...6#post25163313

2) The copper tubing and wood screw mod by dan2pkheli
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1564

3) The CX4 CNC swashplate mod by fuzzyguy. This link is to his post in modding the V913 top frame plate and the anti-rotation bracket.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1185

Two aluminum swashplates are available for fuzzyguy's swashplate mod.

Link to the LynxHeli.com aluminum swashplate
http://www.lynxheli.com/product_info...ducts_id=23005

Or if you prefer, a link to the Xtreme.com aluminum swashplate
http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...oducts_id=8378
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 03:53 PM | 9,439 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

BACKGROUND:
I wrote this blog hoping it might help others when using a 3S batt on the V913. This blog entry is for using a main motor that is designed to run on 3S batts instead of the stock 2S batts. That means I did not use the stock motor or any of the F45, E-1003, or any of the stock brushed 370/380 size 2S voltage rated replacement motors we have been using. They are all designed for 2S voltages.

Finding a 3S voltage rated motor is not the problem in converting a V913 to 11.1 volts. I found some main motors compatible with 11.1 volt. The V912/3/5 PCB cannot operate on 3S voltages. That is still the limiting factor in this conversion. Anyone wanting to fly the V913 on 11.1 volts might want to convert the Rx/PCB over to a compatible one such as found in some of the Feilun FX series of helos. The newest ones such as the FX070C also have a FBL feature that might make them the ideal candidate. But you will need to purchase a Tx compatible with it as well.

A. THE Xtreme 380X vs SUPER 370 MAIN MOTOR
I used both the Xtreme 380 BB motor and the HB Super 370 motor. Even though both motors have improved power over the stock motor when using 3S batts, the 370 Super motor seems to be the more powerful motor. I ran the Super 370 main motor for 10 flts on 3S. In a crash it burned up the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:46 PM | 7,926 Views
Summary
REQUIRED ITEMS TO PARALLEL CHARGE:
FORMULAS:
PARALLEL CHARGE RULES:
Rule 1. All batteries must have the same number of cells
Rule 2. All batteries must be very close to the same voltage.
Rule 3. Do NOT charge batteries at a rate higher than the manufacturer recommends.

REQUIRED ITEMS TO PARALLEL CHARGE:
1) Charger (with power supply or DC power source)
2) Parallel charge cable or board
3) Balance cable or board (for multi-cell batteries)

To parallel charge any batteries, you will need a charger with a power supply (can be included or added on) and a parallel charge cable/board. Ready-made parallel charging cables or boards can be bought at your LHS but ProgressiveRC & BuddyRC have them. You will need balance cables if you are going to charge multiple cell batteries. You do not need balance cable for 1S batteries since there is no balance plug on 1S batteries.

TERMS:
1. Capacity = mAh (milliamp hours) values
2. C Rating = manufacturer's maximum recommended charge rate (i.e. 1C, 2C, etc).
3. Cells = 1S is 1 cell, 2S is 2 cells, etc.
4. Voltage = 3.7V/cell Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) & 4.2V/cell full charge. For LiPos only, that means a 3.7V nominal value to LVC per cell. That's 7.4V for a 2 Cell (2S) battery and 11.1V for a 3S battery. Maximum charge would give you 4.2 volts per cell or 8.4V for a 2S and 12.6V for a 3S battery. Add 3.7V for each cell above that for the LVC value and 4.2V for the full charge value for each additional cell.

PARALLEL...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:01 PM | 9,022 Views
This entry is now incorporated into my Blog as POST #12 in my blog thread entry here on "Reference Source for the WL Toys V913 helicopter" : https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5#post30546498

Discussion: This procedure is intended for Fixed Pitch (FP) helos pilots to set up their helo to fly a stable hover relatively hands-free. It is for helos with only 2 servo links to the swashplate. You should always trim your helo mechanically before using the electronic trim features of your transmitter (Tx).

Generally Collective Pitch (CP) helos must have a level swashplate. This is NOT the case for FP helos. Many first time FP pilots try to level the swashplate of their FP birds. A level swashplate may, or may not allow your FP bird to hover hands-off. What is important is whether or not you can enter a stable hover hands-free with your FP helo, regardless of the swashplate position, level or not.

There are FP conversions helos that have FP heads on CP frames, and have 3 servo links to the swashplate. This procedure does not apply to them or CP helos.

Step 1: Zero out any trim to the Aileron (AIL) and Elevator (ELE) on the transmitter (Tx) controls. If the Tx has sub-trim in a menu or sub-menu setting, zero that out also.

If you are only adjusting for drift, skip Step 2 and go directly to Step 3. Step 3 assumes servo arms are already adjusted at 90 degrees to direction of travel on all servos.

Step 2: CENTERING A SERVO See MATERIALS at bottom of post.
(WARNING:...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 13, 2014 @ 03:06 PM | 7,929 Views
My current Rotary Wing squadron is made up of 2 V913s, 4 V911s & 1 V222 quad. I've sold 2 Blade 120SRs, 2 DH 9116s, a Blade 300X & a Blade Scout coaxial helo, my entry bird into the hobby. I've given my g/kids 1 GW 9958 & 4 V911s.

My fixed wing squadron consist of a UMX Pitts & Carbon Cub SS, a Dynam 1250mm SBach 342, a 900mm TechOne Extra 330 & a 57.5 inch wingspan FliteTest Storch. I've crashed beyond repair a TechOne FunFly and a Dynam Rapid. I've sold 3 UMX planes (P-40 Warhawk, Mosquito, F-27 Stryker) & a Hobbico Cessna Corvalis.

I have a FliteTest Mighty Mini Speedster build kit I'm still sorting out. Eventually I'll have a plane with flaps, lights and retracts. I expect it will be the F-4U Corsair and/or the P-51 Mustang. I'm waiting for FMS to come out with them in them in the 980mm class rather than the 1250 size already out....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:58 PM | 6,444 Views
John Salt's site on Helicopters. Great info for the beginner.
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/

Model Airplane News tips on Electric Flight. More great info for the beginner.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/blo...ric-airplanes/

CaptJac's "3D is NOT for everyone" forum on RCGs. The title is self-explanatory.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1901484

NoFlyZone's "Beginners Guide to Motor and Prop Selection" forum on RCGs.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1136470

FliesLikeABeagle's software to pick motors and props.
http://flbeagle.rchomepage.com/softw.../webocalc.html

Sandancer's Build Log on the Schottky Bus-Tie Circuit. Allows you to use 2 sources for power to the Rx that back each other up. I don't have the skills to build one but wish I did.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2120160

HeadUpRC's link to airplane props.
http://www.headsuprc-info.com/propeller-faq.html

THE ROLE OF THE BEC IN YOUR ELECTRIC PLANE
by Ed Anderson
aeajr on the forums
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...8&postcount=23

"JST" connector confusion - the real story by John i.e. jj604 on RCGs. John's forum has links to many sources and helps to clear up the battery & servo connector confusion.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1493712

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

How many amps...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:33 PM | 6,924 Views
GENERAL ACRONYMS
There are some terms newbies may not be familiar with so here they are.

The terms here may be proprietary to Horizon Hobby, FlyZone, etc.
A = Amps
BEC = Battery Eliminator Circuit, refers to linear vs switching BEC (See SBEC below)
BL = BL as in a BL motor vs a Brushed motor
CL = Coefficient of Lift
CL = Center of Lift
ESC = Electronic Speed Control
FBL = Flybarless, lacking a flybar
LVC = Low Voltage Cutoff (Over 80% of battery capacity [mAh] used) - commonly equated to a nominal voltage as a reference, but is actually a percentage of storage capacity.
OPTO ESC = Opto = BEC part of the ESC isolates the ESC from the Receiver; more recently refers to a ESC w/out a BEC.
Rx = Receiver
Rxs = Receivers
SBEC = originally Smart BEC, now also used for Switching Battery Eliminator Circuit versus a Linear BEC; SBECs are much more efficient (stay cooler) than linear BECs.
Tx = Transmitter
Txs = Transmitters
UBEC = a Switching BEC referred to the Ultimate BEC (made by Kool Flight Systems [Jeff Myers, SEFF organizer]) or Universal BEC nowadays. Initially it was a standalone BEC but marketers have also commandered the term UBEC to use with ESCs that have integrated BECs.
V = Volts
W = Watts

Variations of Models or Rxs sold in various states of completion:
RTF = Ready To Fly; comes with a Tx, Rx, battery, charger, servos, motor & ESC (if BL)
BNF = Bind N Fly; comes with a Rx; Same as Tx-R (Transmitter Ready)
ARF = Almost Ready To Fly; the most ambiguous of acronyms;...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:18 PM | 6,508 Views
DSM2/DSMX compatible Lemon-Rx 6 Channel 3 axis Stabilizer/Receiver. The stab/Rx comes with or without a satellite receiver. It's $18.90 w/out the sat and $26.20 w/the satellite. I have 4 of these units in 4 of my 5 planes currently. Using a DX6i they are compatible with DSM2. Using my DX18 they are DSMX compatible. These are the reason I was able to move forward in the hobby (fly planes without crashing) and also why I am a Spektrum (DSMX) protocol user.
http://www.lemon-rx.com/shop/index.p...tegory&path=76

PowerUp 17g Micro Servo
Best deal ever on a 17g servo. Sold at HeadsUpHobby.com
$5.95 HURC SKU: H-240
Specs: Analog Metal Gear Servo

Wt. 17.5g /062oz;
Torque 3.0kg/cm, 42oz/in 0.13sec @4.8V
Torque 3.5kg/cm, 49oz/in 0.11sec @6.0V
Op Volt 4.8-6V
Dimensions 29.2x 11x 32mm
Wire 6.75in 220mm long (only downside to this servo)
Futaba compatible 3F spline
http://www.headsuphobby.com/Power-Up...?categoryId=-1

LiPo Battery Charging Calculator
http://www.progressiverc.com/chargingdemand This link shows the time it takes to parallel charge multiple batteries and gives the charger requirements.

2ZO - RC modular Power Supply John Salt's writeup on this power supply system says it allows you to add multiple Power Supplies to build a system that can use 110 volt power and not break the bank.
http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-power-supply.html

5 Outlet Universal Charge Cable from BuddyRC.com has a blank pair of wires plus 4 most popular connectors (EC3, Deans, XT60, 4mm...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 10, 2014 @ 10:31 AM | 6,254 Views
I posted the follwing below on the V912 forum as a recommendation to anyone wanting a cheap programmable Tx. The link to it is at the bottom of this blog entry.

The DH 9116 Tx uses the FlySky protocol used by many of the Chinese makers of helos such as Syma, Double Horse, FlySky, Xieda and WL Toys and I believe many others. It's not a 9X by any means, but will allow the beginner to at least reverse channels and set Expo and end points. It has only 1 memory feature.

"If you want to be able to save any settings and not spend a bunch on a Tx, get the DH9116 Tx for $7 at HobbyPartz. http://www.hobbypartz.com/67p-9116-26.html
The link still works as of 2/28/2015 but it is and has been out of stock for some time. It is best to do a search for it and buy somewhere else if you want to buy one. It's not the best Tx and you may even have to send it back due to poor soldering, or do some yourself, but it is cheap, and better than the V91x Txs for saving settings, setting Dual Rates, end points beyond 100% and reversing channels. But it is only 1 model memory saved.

Just reverse AIL & RUD from the stock settings to fly the V91x helos with it. Here's how: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...35&postcount=2
If you want the entire manual, see page 3 for settings on the DH9116 Tx here: http://customers.skymesh.net.au/~mat...ech_manual.pdf

I have 4, 2 of which I paid for. Two came with an unusable trim on a channel. They sent me a replacement one for free. I use one for my DH9116, one for my V911 & V913, 1 for my Xieda 9958 and one for spare parts."

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=4454