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Posted by hifinsword | May 31, 2017 @ 04:58 AM | 6,453 Views
INDEX: Links to Posts in this thread, my BLOG entry

POST #1. "Reviews/Data Reference Source on Aircraft & Buggies" AT BOTTOM OF POST #1.

POST #2. LINK TO Data comparisons on select EDFs and LG dimensions i.e. alternatives to stock Nose Landing Gear for the FMS F/A-18 EDF primarily.

POST #3. LINK TO "DX18 Setup for Throttle Cut for electric models" (also applicable to other Spektrum AirWare Radios)


my "DX18 Setup for Throttle Cut for electric models" in another thread (also applicable to other Spektrum AirWare Radios)

LINK TO "The Beginner's Guide to RC Protocols"

LINK TO "Lemon Stab Plus (+), & Lemon Stab/Rx setups"

LINK TO "What is the Center of Gravity? (CG)"

LINK TO "Common Types of Foam available"

LINK TO "The 80% Rule for charging LiPos (Lithium Polymer) batteries"

LINK TO "Parallel Charging batteries 101"

LINK TO "How to Mechanically Trim a Fixed Pitch (FP) Helo"

LINK TO "7 ways to reverse a servo, especially for use with a STABILZER" (POST #2 of my SOME BEGINNERS TERMS, , , link below)

LINK TO "My Favorite Links for Beginners Advice, etc."
--- POST #4. LINK TO my "4S Battery History"

--- POST #5. LINK TO my "6S LiPos in inventory" history.

LINK TO "Some Basic beginner terms, Small & Medium battery connector types, links"

LINK TO "Favorite Links -...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 20, 2017 @ 02:18 PM | 8,775 Views
Indicator lights 1 (LEDs nearest antennas) - Blue and Green

Indicator lights 2 (LEDs nearest pins)
- Red & Green SOLID colors

STANDARD 6-7 Channel Stab+ setup:

This POST is linked from here the "Lemon Stabilizer Plus configurations" thread.
This is a standard T-THR, A-AIL, E-ELE, R-RUD, GER- FLAPS, FLPS-GEAR setup. It could also be abbreviated as TAERFG.

NOTE: If your retracts have an impedance problem on Ch7/AUX2, the BIND port, POST #4 below has the flaps and retracts swapped on their port assignments. Also note I switched mode control in that post to SwG versus SwE in this post.

The setup below is an 8Ch setup. Ch5 is used to switch modes inflight. If you only have a 6Ch Tx and want to switch the modes inflight, please refer to the DX6i thread here for more info on setting that up.

Or you can go to the Lemon "The Official Lemon Instructions thread" HERE, POST 4. Open the PDF document "Lemon Stab Plus Essentials Instructions" attached at the bottom and read the Section titled "Using the Stabilizer PLUS with a DX6i" on Page 12.

If you have a 7Ch Tx, you will be able to set this up using Ch5 for the mode select. If you have a 8Ch Tx or higher, you will be able to use Ch8 for Master Gain control. The setup includes flaps and retractable landing gear.

This setup cannot be used with flaperons or dual ailerons. To use the Stab Plus...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Sep 06, 2016 @ 02:15 PM | 9,372 Views
I'm no engineer or aerodynamist. I'm sure there are technical differences for the different Center of Gravity (CG) terms that are tossed about. But to simplify this discussion, I am going to use the following terms - CG range, ideal CG, designed CG, published CG and measured CG.

-- A. The "Ideal CG" is that CG which achieves hands-off straight and level flight with no trim to the control surfaces.

You don't pick a CG point and make it balance there. You balance your plane and find out where that point is.

The recommended CG is a good starting point, not the ending point.

Airplanes have a "Designed CG". The engineers designing the airplane take into account what they want to achieve and design the airplane around those parameters. They know mathmatically where the CG should be based on their design. They design around a "Datum Line". You won't usually find a "Datum Line" in the RC model's stats. A common substitute for it is the horizontal stabilizer.

-- B. What is the "CG range"?
We'll leave helicopters and multirotors out of this discussion. In real airplanes, a "CG range" is usually discussed with the terms forward and aft CG limits used. It is a range of measurements that give you the best flight characteristics for the mission or phase of flight you are flying. The CG point moves as passengers embark or disembark, fuel is burned or received, cargo taken on or discharged, weapons...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 29, 2015 @ 02:36 PM | 14,359 Views
This is my build of the PZ F4U-1A Corsair PNP (PKZ6075) version. The BNF is PKZ6080. The kit version is PKZ6070.

- 1) Discontinued
This model has been discontinued. It is one of the best looking RC Corsair models in my opinion. As of late 2016, parts are still available.
- 2) Three-section flaps
This model is set up for scale-like 3 section flaps as did the real Corsair. You must add the servos yourself but everything else is there in place.
- 3) Rectractable LG
The LG mounts are already molded in place and the wires are installed for retractable landing gear (LG) as well. You just need to buy and install Retractable LG.

I hope to find this blog useful to follow its progress as I mod it. I also find having my planes on my blog helpful to quickly retrieve facts about them. This was my Christmas present for 2015. It was bought from on sale for $124.99. On 27 Dec 2015 I started putting it together and finished in about 7 hours, including the flaps but not the retractable LG.

- ParkZone F4U-1A Corsair PNP
- Wingspan 44in 1120mm
- Length 36.0in 915mm
- Weight 43.4oz 1230g w/drop tanks;
- Weight 46.6oz 1320g w/retracts/flaps 30A ESC w/flaps hardware, retract-ready, tanks installed
- Servos used for flaps are TowerPro MG-90
- Battery used for COG measurements - 11.1V 3S 2200mAh 25C LiPo
- Motor - 15-sized 950Kv BL motor (PKZ5116 15 BL Motor)

The build...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2015 @ 03:33 PM | 16,732 Views
Main discussion thread here:

My Experiences:
After reading the main discussion thread on this Dynam SBach 342, it was obvious some mods would be needed to get it right for flying. But I'm not the type that typically cuts into brand new airplanes and starts over with new parts. I prefer to take the slow road and replace parts as they break or wear out.

On this one I did a little of both. On the maiden flight my pilot ejected 3 times. A close inspection revealed the canopy only had 1 pair of magnets in place. The 3 in the canopy were there but the 2 matching magnets on the side rails were missing. My pilot also didn't fare well on the ejections so a mod was required to keep her in her seat.

On the 2nd flight the plane hit a divit (grass field landing) and the gear came off during rollout. Except for some small dents under the wing where the LG hit on the way off, and of course the foam tear where the gear used to be, there was no damage.

On the 3rd flight the left AIL came back jammed in the down position. That was fun getting her safely on deck with half flaps (pun), i.e. full down, but on only 1 side.

The fuselage was modded prior to flying by covering as much as possible with clear packing tape. That included the plastic cowling, which got a layer of Extreme packing tape inside and clear on the outside. By some accounts, it is prone to breakage and not be in stock very often.

Where to buy:
NitroPlanes....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 13, 2015 @ 01:49 PM | 16,541 Views
POST 2 - Dynam Rapid Parts and alternate sources
POST 3 - Dynam Rapid Receiver and Stabilization systems
POST 4 - Dynam Rapid batteries
POST 5 - Transmitter (Tx) settings
POST 6 - Dynam Rapid Landing Gear, Wheels, Pants
POST 7 - Cowling and forward fuselage battery compartment modification
POST 8 - Dynam Rapid motor mount mod
POST 9 - Link to Dynam Rapid Assembly
POST 10 - Link to Dynam Rapid landing gear mod
POST 11 - Link to Recommendations

What this plane is not:
I was looking for a small plane (under 30in wingspan) so I could fly around the yard without going to the park. This is not that plane. It is fast and not that easy to land in a small space. The motor is a peppy 1500Kv BL motor. The recommended battery is oversize for this small an airplane at 3S 11.1V 850mAh. It has unlimited vertical and amazing acceleration. This is a park flyer and not a back yard flyer unless your backyard is acres and acres of land.

What this plane is:
I already have the UMX E-flite Carbo Cub SS, but I was hoping for something I could yank and bank a little more in that small size class. This Dynam Rapid is that type of plane! It is also sturdy enough to take a hit. I've been flying planes for a year so I also didn't want a small profile requiring a lot of cutting and gluing CF rods. I wanted a plane that is fairly simple and easy to assemble. This is that. It goes together quickly and easily.

I've...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 09, 2014 @ 09:13 AM | 52,566 Views
POST 1 - Table of Contents (also protocols, frequencies, modulation types)
POST 2 - Link to Various Protocols used in RC
POST 3 - Link to The 2 major channel sequences
POST 4 - Link to Walkera protocol
POST 5 - Link to FrSky protocol
POST 6 - Link to FlySky protocols AFHDS and AFHDS-2 (w/telemetry)
POST 7 - Link to DSM2 & DSMX (Spektrum) protocols
POST 8 - Link to Futaba protocol
POST 9 - Link to KN protocol
POST 10 - Link to HiSky protocol
POST 11 - Link to IIX protocol
POST 12 - LINK to Various MicroChips used for RC in the 2.4MHz band
POST 13 - Link to Cheerson (YD717 protocol)
POST 14 - Link to DT-Link PROTOCOL developed by Detrum
POST 15 - Link to Miscellaneous stuff that may or may not help

POST 18 - LINK to Receiver Protocols
POST 20 - LINK to First Person View (FPV) Video Transmission frequencies

I have tried to write this thread for others like me, i.e. non-geeks or non-hackers. I use that term affectionately. I admire the ability to understand software code and write it. And I admire those that understand electricity and how to wire things with diodes, transitors, etc. so they will do whatever you want. I have very little understanding of writing code or how to do much software installation unless it is written very plainly in English and in great detail. Wiring diagrams help very little unless they are very basic, but I really need actual pictures. I can solder enough to change out a battery terminal, but not...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Sep 25, 2014 @ 06:02 AM | 4,803 Views
This BLOG entry is about the Freewing 80mm A-4E/F Skyhawk available at MotionRC for $329.00. The ARP Plus version is also available at MotionRC for $249.00. It comes without the BL motor and ESC.

PNP version plus a battery $395.96 + $89.50 shipping to East Coast United States Product Code: FJ21311PWB at RC-Castle.
Included Battery: Wild Scorpion 6S 22.2v 4200mah 60C Li-Po

PNP version $319.99 + $84 shipping to East Coast United States Product Code: FJ21311P at RC-Castle.

ARF Plus version $259.98 + $78.50 shipping to East Coast United States Product Code: FJ21311A+ at RC-Castle.


Why I chose the Freewing 80mm A-4 Skyhawk:

1. The primary reason I chose the A-4 is the NOSEWHEEL assembly has a TRAILING LINK (TL), not just the OLEO strut found on most other EDFs I've considered. I fly off grass exclusively. Unless you are sporting a nosewheel at least 3 inches in diameter, the nosewheel strut will not withstand the forces trying to rip it off when it hits a divit in a grass runway. Oleo suspensions can take upward forces, not rearward forces. Something as small as a deer's footprint will cause the nosewheel to sink. Once down in a divit, the forces are both up and aft. Rearward forces will drive the strut aft. With a TRAILING LINK suspension, a lot of those forces will be translated to the TL spring, forcing the nosewheel up and aft, not the strut. Although this A-4 has TL suspensions on the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jul 22, 2014 @ 10:58 AM | 14,428 Views
This is a short description of types of foam used in the RC hobby. I've also included a link to a great forum for foam suppliers.

Foam suppliers.

Types of Foam

Depron - very light weight, brittle; NOT contact cement safe. DO NOT use Welders Adhesive or forms of contact cement with Depron. The only glues I have used with this and with EPS foam that don't dissolve them is Gorilla Glue and the Foam-Safe CAs. Recently I've even found that too much Foam-Cure or Foam-Tac covered in a restricted spot on a surface will generate heat and/or gases that dissolve EPS/Depron. Don't cover Foam-Cure or Foam-Tac with tape or a covering immediately after applying it, if it does not have the ability to let the heat or gas off. I have recently heard of a new glue that is safe on EPS/Depron. It's Loctite Go2 Glue. I haven't tried it. Home Depot carries it. It's cheap and flexible when cured, both important features I find attractive.

Elapor - blended EPS & EPP

EPO (Expanded Polyolefine) - Horizon Hobby (HH) calls their form of EPO, Z-foam. Takes clear packing tape well. OK to use regular CA.

EPE (Expanded Polyethelene)

EPP Expanded Polypropylene - (pool noodles) low structural strength; covers with low temp coverings; clear packing or shipping tape does NOT stick to very well; use a spray adhesive or FoamTac with 3M Blenderm, fiberglass tape (drywall type), ...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 10, 2014 @ 02:45 PM | 16,026 Views
Recharging LiPo batteries - the 80% rule applies to the storage capacity or AMPERAGE of the BATTERY, NOT THE VOLTAGE of a battery. For a 1500mAh battery that means it should not be discharged more than 1200mAh (0.8x1500 = 1200, or 80% of 1500mAh). You won't know that until you recharge the battery with a charger capable of showing you that, or you have a meter capable of reading those values before charging. A good charger will tell you how many mAh it took to completely recharge the battery back to 4.2 volts per cell. It should then be at the full capacity of 1500mAh. HERE is a link to my BLOG entry "Parallel-Charging-batteries-101" that may help.

A good rule of thumb to use for how far to discharge a battery, is the nominal voltages associated with each cell, i.e. 3.7 volts per cell. If you don't go below 3.7 volts per cell, you probably won't hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) and damage your LiPo battery. Go below the LVC and you will most likely be putting back more than the 80% amp carrying capacity of your battery - NOT GOOD!

If you think you will be staying with this hobby, I recommend buying a quality BALANCE charger and stop using the cheap stock chargers that come with most RTR, RTF, ARF & BNF combos. They are OK in a pinch or on a trip where you don't want to carry a full blown charging setup. I won't recommend a charger or brand. New ones come out all the time but a good place to start is searching RCGs, or go to sites such as John Salt's for...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 28, 2014 @ 02:41 PM | 16,248 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here:

I am using the FX067C/FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly on both my V913s currently. One is on a raised and extended CF tail boom. The other is on a stock metal V913 tail boom.

UPDATE: FWIW as of 4/12/2016, the FX052 tail motor on my Bird #1 has 65 flights. Eight of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries. Bird #2's FX052 tail motor has 68 flights on it. Nine of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries.

The FX052 tail main and pinion gear sizes, and gear ratio allows the tail motor to work more efficiently than the stock V913 tail motor gears. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor.

I feel the FX052 tail motor gives me better tail control. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly needs to be shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here on Page 161 Post 2404:

To use the FX052 tail motor most effectively you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts (screw holes) and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. The FX052 tail motor pinion gear is too large to fit thru the opening of the V913 gear housing. If you only want to use the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 05:08 AM | 16,289 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here:

These are the mods made to my #1 V913.

1) Swashplate mod. Hot glue and paper clip mod discussed in detail here:
The new Heli-Factor aluminum swashplate (and main rotor hub & main blade holder) are discussed in my blog here:

2) A new extended carbon fiber (CF) tail boom with raised tail motor mount was installed to be parallel with main motor shaft.
Boom and reinforcements to angle are CF tube and strips. The tail boom was extended about 1 inch, has 1mm thick sidewalls and is 10mm in diameter. The CF reinforcing strips are 4mm wide and 0.6mm thick. Horizontal stabilizing rods and vertical fins were removed initially but were reinstalled after about 5 months to deal with stress fractures. The torque from the tail motor twisting the CF boom resulted in stress fractures starting to show up.

I reinforced the stress fractures with dental floss wrapped around the boom and CA'd in place with thin CA.

More details are discussed in my "IDEA" blog entry on "Swapping the V913 tail motor & gear assembly for the FX052 tail motor & gear assembly" here.

3) Tail motor and gear assembly are from the Feilun FX052 helicopter. Some more info can be found here in...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 04, 2014 @ 06:03 AM | 16,648 Views
EDIT 4/11/2016: I did a review of the Heli-Factor aluminum upgrades here.

Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on the main V913 forum. Those with much more knowledge than I have will be better able to help. The link is here:

I have included this Post also as Post # 28 in my BLOG entry, "WL Toys V913 helicopter Reference Source". Link:

Update: As of August 2014, Heli-Factor has the aluminum upgrades to the V913 swashplate. It is available thru HobbyDirect. Also available are an Aluminum Main Blade holder and a Rotor Head or Hub.
Aluminum upgrade swashplate link:

If you haven't modded the V913 swashplate, the odds are you will sooner or later, or give up flying the V913. This is a "MUST DO MOD" in order to fly the V913. I've tried to consolidate the most popular ones here for future reference.

1) The ever popular paper clip + hot glue mod by nmemennth

2) The copper tubing and wood screw mod by dan2pkheli

3) The CX4 CNC swashplate mod by fuzzyguy. This link is to his post in modding the V913 top frame plate and the anti-rotation bracket.

Two aluminum swashplates are available for fuzzyguy's swashplate mod.

Link to the aluminum swashplate

Or if you prefer, a link to the aluminum swashplate
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 02:53 PM | 17,113 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here:

I wrote this blog hoping it might help others when using a 3S batt on the V913. This blog entry is for using a main motor that is designed to run on 3S batts instead of the stock 2S batts. That means I did not use the stock motor or any of the F45, E-1003, or any of the stock brushed 370/380 size 2S voltage rated replacement motors we have been using. They are all designed for 2S voltages.

Finding a 3S voltage rated motor is not the problem in converting a V913 to 11.1 volts. I found some main motors compatible with 11.1 volt. The V912/3/5 PCB cannot operate on 3S voltages. That is still the limiting factor in this conversion. Anyone wanting to fly the V913 on 11.1 volts might want to convert the Rx/PCB over to a compatible one such as found in some of the Feilun FX series of helos. The newest ones such as the FX070C also have a FBL feature that might make them the ideal candidate. But you will need to purchase a Tx compatible with it as well.

A. THE Xtreme 380X vs SUPER 370 MAIN MOTOR
I used both the Xtreme 380 BB motor and the HB Super 370 motor. Even though both motors have improved power over the stock motor when using 3S batts, the 370 Super motor seems to be the more powerful motor. I ran the Super 370 main motor for 10 flts on 3S. In a crash it burned up the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:46 PM | 15,804 Views
Prior to parallel charging, you should be familiar with the 80% rule. My blog on the 80% rule can be found here:

Rule 1. All batteries must have the same number of cells
Rule 2. All batteries must be very close to the same voltage.
Rule 3. Do NOT charge batteries at a rate higher than the manufacturer recommends.

1) Charger (with power supply or DC power source)
2) Parallel charge cable or board
3) Balance cable or board (for multi-cell batteries)

To parallel charge any batteries, you will need a charger with a power supply (can be included or added on) and a parallel charge cable/board. Ready-made parallel charging cables or boards can be bought at your LHS but ProgressiveRC & BuddyRC have them. You will need balance cables if you are going to charge multiple cell batteries. You do not need balance cable for 1S batteries since there is no balance plug on 1S batteries.

1. Capacity = mAh (milliamp hours) values
2. Charge Rating = manufacturer's maximum recommended charge rate (i.e. 1C, 2C, etc).
3. Cells = 1S is 1 cell, 2S is 2 cells, etc.
4. Voltage = 3.7V/cell Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) & 4.2V/cell full charge. For LiPos only, that means a 3.7V nominal value to LVC per cell. That's 7.4V for a 2 Cell (2S) battery and 11.1V for a 3S battery. Maximum charge would give you 4.2 volts per...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:01 PM | 17,157 Views
This entry is now incorporated into my Blog as POST #12 in my blog thread entry here on "Reference Source for the WL Toys V913 helicopter" :

Discussion: This procedure is intended for Fixed Pitch (FP) helos pilots to set up their helo to fly a stable hover relatively hands-free. It is for helos with only 2 servo links to the swashplate. You should always trim your helo mechanically before using the electronic trim features of your transmitter (Tx).

Generally Collective Pitch (CP) helos must have a level swashplate. This is NOT the case for FP helos. Many first time FP pilots try to level the swashplate of their FP birds. A level swashplate may, or may not allow your FP bird to hover hands-off. What is important is whether or not you can enter a stable hover hands-free with your FP helo, regardless of the swashplate position, level or not.

There are FP conversions helos that have FP heads on CP frames, and have 3 servo links to the swashplate. This procedure does not apply to them or CP helos.

Step 1: Zero out any trim to the Aileron (AIL) and Elevator (ELE) on the transmitter (Tx) controls. If the Tx has sub-trim in a menu or sub-menu setting, zero that out also.

If you are only adjusting for drift, skip Step 2 and go directly to Step 3. Step 3 assumes servo arms are already adjusted at 90 degrees to direction of travel on all servos.

Step 2: CENTERING A SERVO See MATERIALS at bottom of post.
(WARNING:...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 13, 2014 @ 03:06 PM | 14,534 Views
When I started this hobby in 2011, I only flew helos. As I got more involved with the hobby, I eventually wanted to get a plane with flaps and retracts. I wanted to get the P-51 Mustang . Instead I got the PZ F-4U Corsair. After multiple crashes, it has been retired or waiting for HH to resurrect it like they have some of the other 1120mm wingspan birds recently in 2017. It was not the best plane to start out with for the warbirds category. But my favorite flying bird currently is the 1.2M E-flite Spitfire.

As of March 2018, my fixed wing squadron consist of
1) 1.2M E-flite Spitfire w/SAFE AR636A Rx
2) FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk All Volunteer Group (AVG) livery
3) FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk modified Pearl Harbor day livery
4) FMS 1220mm Super EZ (floats added with the new V2 fuselage in 2017)
5) TechOne 828mm/32.6 Venus F3P indoor flyer
6) TechOne 900mm profile Extra 330 (LEDs added for night flying in 2017)
7) TechOne 900mm FunCub
8) Dynam 1500mm/59" Cessna 188 (C188) AgWagon

Since I started this blog entry I've lost my UMX Pitts to a Georgia swamp. I've crashed and destroyed a 1120mm Parkzone F-4U Corsair, two 57.5 inch wingspan FliteTest Storches, a FliteTest Mighty Mini Speedster and a Dynam Rapid. The Mighty Mini Speedster hangs from my grandson's bedroom ceiling. I've sold 4 UMX planes, a Carbon Cub SS, P-40 Warhawk, Mosquito, F-27 Stryker. I sold one of my 1st ever planes, a Hobbico Cessna Corvalis. I've also owned, flown and sold a Dynam 1250mm SBach 342, Ares...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:58 PM | 13,464 Views
Much has been added since I first started this post. Beginners may want to read POSTs #s 7 and 10 first since the other posts were entered earlier and cannot be moved easily.

Table of Contents:

POST 1 - Favorites links below the Table of Contents

POST 2 - Link to 7 ways to reverse a servo, especially for use with a STABILZER

POST 3 - Link to Breaking in brushes on a Brush Motor

POST 4 - Link to Balancing & Tracking Rotor Blades (Helos) or Props (Planes)

POST 5 - Link to BSI's Foam-Cure versus Beacon's Foam-Tac + Gorilla Glue

POST 6 - Link to ThunderPower 610HVC 100 Watt 10 Amp AC/DC charger

POST 7 - Link to Just Starting out in RC? Some things to know.

POST 8 - Link to DX18 SETUP for Throttle Cut for electric models VERY IMPORTANT!

POST 9 - Link to ESC Calibration Also important.

POST 10 - Link to Starting out - A Beginner's Story


John Salt's site on Helicopters. Great info for the beginner.

Model Airplane News tips on Electric Flight. More great info for the beginner.

CaptJac's "3D is NOT for everyone" forum on RCGs. The title is self-explanatory.

NoFlyZone's "Beginners Guide to Motor and Prop Selection" forum on RCGs.

FliesLikeABeagle's...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:33 PM | 15,114 Views
These are some terms newbies may not be familiar with.

Common acronyms:
AETR = channel sequence 1-4 used in Futaba-based protocol; A=aileron, E=elevator, T=throttle, R=rudder
AC or A/C = Aircraft
AB or A/B = Auto Balance - same as AL
AB or A/B = Afterburner
AKA = Also Known As
AL or A/L = Auto-Level - same as AB
AH or A/H = Auto-Hover
CG = Center of Gravity
COG = Center of Gravity
CL = Control Line
CL = Center Line
EDF = Electronic Ducted Fan
FFF = Fast Foward Flight
FF = Free Flight
FF = Fast Foward
FT = FliteTest (Brand)
FT = Full Throttle
HS = Horizontal Stabilizer, usually has the elevator attached to it. AKA the small or rear wing.
IC = Internal Combustion engine or motor. Motors usually refer to electric motors.
LA = Low Approach - plane does normal approach but waves off before getting close to touchdown. Earlier waveoff than Low & Go
LE = Leading Edge (of wing usually)
LED = Light Emitting Diode
LG = Landing Gear
LNDG = Landing
MLG = Main Landing Gear
MR = MultiRotor
ROG = Rise off Grass/Ground
ROW = Rise off Water
RTB = Return to Base
RTH = Return to Home
RWY = Runway
S&G = Slow & Go; airplane approaches runway but just before touchdown, power is applied and a/c resumes flying.
TAER = channel sequence 1-4 used in Spektrum's (DSM/DSM2/DSMX) protocols; T=throttle, A=aileron, E=elevator, R=rudder
TD = Touch Down
T&G = Touch and Go; airplane lands, power is applied while rolling out or after complete stop and airplane lifts off again....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:18 PM | 13,117 Views
DSM2/DSMX compatible Lemon-Rx 6 Channel 3 axis Stabilizer/Receiver. The stab/Rx comes with or without a satellite receiver. It's $18.90 w/out the sat and $26.20 w/the satellite. I have used these for years in my 5 planes. A new Stab+ was recently released featuring an Auto-Balance feature not found in previous models. Using a DX6i they are compatible with DSM2. Using almost any advance Tx such as my DX18, they are DSMX compatible. These rate stabilizers are the reason I was able to move forward in the hobby (fly planes without crashing) and also why I am a Spektrum (DSMX) protocol user.
You can find them here under the Stabilizers / Telemetry heading.

PowerUp 17g Micro Servo
Best deal ever on a 17g servo. Sold here at
$5.95 HURC SKU: H-240
Specs: Analog Metal Gear Servo

Wt. 17.5g /062oz;
Torque 3.0kg/cm, 42oz/in 0.13sec @4.8V
Torque 3.5kg/cm, 49oz/in 0.11sec @6.0V
Op Volt 4.8-6V
Dimensions 29.2x 11x 32mm
Wire 6.75in 220mm long (only downside to this servo)
Futaba compatible 3F spline

LiPo Battery Charging Calculator This link shows the time it takes to parallel charge multiple batteries and gives the charger requirements.

2ZO - RC modular Power Supply John Salt's writeup on this power supply system says it allows you to add multiple Power Supplies to build a system that can use 110 volt power and not break the bank.

5 Outlet...Continue Reading