hifinsword's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by hifinsword | May 31, 2017 @ 05:58 AM | 3,858 Views
Below are some reviews I have done here on RCGs.

1. Dynam Hawk Sky V2 RTF
The RCGs review of the Hawk Sky V2 is here.
The product link is here.

2. XK A1200 RTF
The RCGs review for the XK A1200 1200mm wingspan RTF airplane glider is here.
The product link is here.

3. Halloween 1031 RTF Quadcopter
The RCGs review of the Halloween 1031 RTF Quadcopter with blinking lights is is here.
The product link is here.

4. WL Toys F959 glider
The RCGs review of WL Toys F959 glider is here.
The product link is here.

5. ASUAV RS220 Racing Quad
The RCGs review of the RS220 220mm FPV Racing Quad (Drone per GB) is here.
The product link is here.

6. FMS Super EZ
The RCGroups review of the FMS Super EZ is here.
The product link of the FMS Super EZ is here.

7. JJRC Q-39 4WD 1:12 scale Highlander Desert Truck RFR - Blue
The RCGs review of the JJRC Q-39 Highlander Desert Truck is HERE.
The product link for the JJRC RC Desert Q39 HIGHLANDER 1:12 4WD Truck RTR Blue is HERE.


I have also created a DATA REFERENCE SOURCE at RCGs for the following models.

WL Toys V913 Fixed Pitch helicopter HERE.

E-flite 1.2M Spitfire with SAFE HERE.

FMS 1400mm P-40B Warhawk HERE.

Dynam Cessna 188 AGwagon Crop Duster HERE.
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 20, 2017 @ 02:18 PM | 5,959 Views
Indicator lights 1 (LEDs nearest antennas) - Blue and Green

Indicator lights 2 (LEDs nearest pins)
- Red & Green SOLID colors

STANDARD 6-7 Channel Stab+ setup:

This POST is linked from here the "Lemon Stabilizer Plus configurations" thread.
This is a standard T-THR, A-AIL, E-ELE, R-RUD, GER- FLAPS, FLPS-GEAR setup. It could also be abbreviated as TAERFG.

The setup below is a 6Chs setup. Ch5 is used to switch modes inflight. If you only have a 6Ch Tx and want to switch the modes inflight, please refer to the DX6i thread here for more info on setting that up.

Or you can go to the Lemon "The Official Lemon Instructions thread" HERE, POST 4. Open the PDF document "Lemon Stab Plus Essentials Instructions" attached at the bottom and read the Section titled "Using the Stabilizer PLUS with a DX6i" on Page 12.

If you have a 7Ch Tx, you will be able to set this up using Ch5 for the mode select. If you have a 8Ch Tx or higher, you will be able to use Ch8 for Master Gain control. The setup includes flaps and retractable landing gear.

This setup cannot be used with flaperons or dual ailerons. To use the Stab Plus with dual ailerons or flaperons you must CHANGE THE WING'S AIL/FLAP CONFIGURATION UNDER THE AIRCRAFT TYPE MENU. Then go to CONFIGURATION 2 in POST 2 below. If you setup flaperons, be aware of the incompatibility of using flaperons and...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Sep 06, 2016 @ 03:15 PM | 6,961 Views
I'm no engineer or aerodynamist. I'm sure there are technical differences for the different Center of Gravity (CG) terms that are tossed about. But to simplify this discussion, I am going to use the following terms - CG range, ideal CG, designed CG, published CG and measured CG.

-- A. The "Ideal CG" is that CG which achieves hands-off straight and level flight with no trim to the control surfaces.

You don't pick a CG point and make it balance there. You balance your plane and find out where that point is.

The recommended CG is a good starting point, not the ending point.

Airplanes have a "Designed CG". The engineers designing the airplane take into account what they want to achieve and design the airplane around those parameters. They know mathmatically where the CG should be based on their design. They design around a "datum line". You won't usually find it in the RC model's stats. A common substitute for it is the horizontal stabilizer.

-- B. What is the "CG range"?
We'll leave helicopters and multirotors out of this discussion. In real airplanes, a "CG range" is usually discussed with the terms forward and aft CG limits used. It is a range of measurements that give you the best flight characteristics for the mission or phase of flight you are flying. The CG point moves as passengers embark or disembark, fuel is burned or received, cargo taken on or discharged, weapons released,...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Aug 28, 2016 @ 12:02 PM | 8,939 Views
EDIT: 24 Aug 2017 I just revised POSTS 1 & 2 to reflect my MIX orders since I have also reversed the SAFE SELECT mode switch from the defaults. If you notice any discrepancies, please PM me so I can correct them.

EDIT: 19 June 2017
The default picture format created by the Spektrum Tx is a BMP file. I recently converted them to JPG files so they can be seen directly on the thread without having to open them separately in a photo viewer or editor program.

EDIT: 4/1/2017 revision
I recently upgraded my ESC to 60 amps. That allowed me to move the battery forward and also add more weight to the front end. I can now move the battery so that the CG is 78mm, the published value. My usual flight CG was 85mm. The 78m CG REDUCES the need for the mixes, but does not eliminate the need entirely. The plane still pitches up, but not as much with more throttle. Accordingly the values have come down, since not as much down elevator is needed. If you decide to use these mixes, test first and adjust as needed. If the plane pitches down in a mix, reduce the values appropriately. If the plane pitches up, increase the values. But be sure you can turn the mixes OFF if you need to.

I find a neutral CG at 85mm for the best glide, at zero throttle. As THR is increased, a mix is necessary to keep the nose from pitching up. If I fly at a CG of 78mm, the nose is heavy at zero THR, but less mix is required to keep the nose down at full throttle. So it's best to pick your flying style for the day,...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 29, 2015 @ 02:36 PM | 11,757 Views
This is my build of the PZ F4U-1A Corsair PNP (PKZ6075) version. The BNF is PKZ6080. The kit version is PKZ6070.
Link: http://www.horizonhobby.com/f4u-1a-corsair-pnp-pkz6075

- 1) Discontinued
This model has been discontinued. It is one of the best looking RC Corsair models in my opinion. As of late 2016, parts are still available.
- 2) Three-section flaps
This model is set up for scale-like 3 section flaps as did the real Corsair. You must add the servos yourself but everything else is there in place.
- 3) Rectractable LG
The LG mounts are already molded in place and the wires are installed for retractable landing gear (LG) as well. You just need to buy and install Retractable LG.

I hope to find this blog useful to follow its progress as I mod it. I also find having my planes on my blog helpful to quickly retrieve facts about them. This was my Christmas present for 2015. It was bought from ReadyMadeRC.com on sale for $124.99. On 27 Dec 2015 I started putting it together and finished in about 7 hours, including the flaps but not the retractable LG.

- ParkZone F4U-1A Corsair PNP
- Wingspan 44in 1120mm
- Length 36.0in 915mm
- Weight 43.4oz 1230g w/drop tanks;
- Weight 46.6oz 1320g w/retracts/flaps 30A ESC w/flaps hardware, retract-ready, tanks installed
- Servos used for flaps are TowerPro MG-90
- Battery used for COG measurements - 11.1V 3S 2200mAh 25C LiPo
- Motor - 15-sized 950Kv BL motor (PKZ5116 15 BL Motor)

The build...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2015 @ 03:33 PM | 13,961 Views
Main discussion thread here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1540050

My Experiences:
After reading the main discussion thread on this Dynam SBach 342, it was obvious some mods would be needed to get it right for flying. But I'm not the type that typically cuts into brand new airplanes and starts over with new parts. I prefer to take the slow road and replace parts as they break or wear out.

On this one I did a little of both. On the maiden flight my pilot ejected 3 times. A close inspection revealed the canopy only had 1 pair of magnets in place. The 3 in the canopy were there but the 2 matching magnets on the side rails were missing. My pilot also didn't fare well on the ejections so a mod was required to keep her in her seat.

On the 2nd flight the plane hit a divit (grass field landing) and the gear came off during rollout. Except for some small dents under the wing where the LG hit on the way off, and of course the foam tear where the gear used to be, there was no damage.

On the 3rd flight the left AIL came back jammed in the down position. That was fun getting her safely on deck with half flaps (pun), i.e. full down, but on only 1 side.

The fuselage was modded prior to flying by covering as much as possible with clear packing tape. That included the plastic cowling, which got a layer of Extreme packing tape inside and clear on the outside. By some accounts, it is prone to breakage and not be in stock very often.

Where to buy:
NitroPlanes....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jan 13, 2015 @ 01:49 PM | 13,595 Views
POST 2 - Dynam Rapid Parts and alternate sources
POST 3 - Dynam Rapid Receiver and Stabilization systems
POST 4 - Dynam Rapid batteries
POST 5 - Transmitter (Tx) settings
POST 6 - Dynam Rapid Landing Gear, Wheels, Pants
POST 7 - Cowling and forward fuselage battery compartment modification
POST 8 - Dynam Rapid motor mount mod
POST 9 - Link to Dynam Rapid Assembly
POST 10 - Link to Dynam Rapid landing gear mod
POST 11 - Link to Recommendations

What this plane is not:
I was looking for a small plane (under 30in wingspan) so I could fly around the yard without going to the park. This is not that plane. It is fast and not that easy to land in a small space. The motor is a peppy 1500Kv BL motor. The recommended battery is oversize for this small an airplane at 3S 11.1V 850mAh. It has unlimited vertical and amazing acceleration. This is a park flyer and not a back yard flyer unless your backyard is acres and acres of land.

What this plane is:
I already have the UMX E-flite Carbo Cub SS, but I was hoping for something I could yank and bank a little more in that small size class. This Dynam Rapid is that type of plane! It is also sturdy enough to take a hit. I've been flying planes for a year so I also didn't want a small profile requiring a lot of cutting and gluing CF rods. I wanted a plane that is fairly simple and easy to assemble. This is that. It goes together quickly and easily.

I've...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Dec 09, 2014 @ 09:13 AM | 38,834 Views
POST 1 - Table of Contents (also protocols, frequencies, modulation types)
POST 2 - Various Protocols used in RC
POST 3 - The 2 major channel sequences
POST 4 - Walkera protocol
POST 5 - FrSky protocol
POST 6 - FlySky protocol
POST 7 - DSM2 & DSMX (Spektrum) protocols
POST 8 - Futaba protocol
POST 9 - KN protocol
POST 10 - HiSky protocol
POST 11 - IIX protocol
POST 12 - LINK to Various MicroChips used for RC in the 2.4MHz band
POST 13 - Cheerson (YD717 protocol)
POST 14 - Miscellaneous stuff that may or may not help
POST 18 - LINK to Receiver Protocols

I have tried to write this thread for others like me, i.e. non-geeks or non-hackers. I use that term affectionately. I admire the ability to understand software code and write it. And I admire those that understand electricity and how to wire things with diodes, transitors, etc. so they will do whatever you want. I have very little understanding of writing code or how to do much software installation unless it is written very plainly in English and in great detail. Wiring diagrams help very little unless they are very basic, but I really need actual pictures. I can solder enough to change out a battery terminal, but not much more. As I pick up bits & pieces of info here and there I will add it to my blog here.


1. Protocols: Protocols have to do with how signals are formatted. Each protocol has its...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jul 22, 2014 @ 11:58 AM | 12,079 Views
This is a short description of types of foam used in the RC hobby. I've also included a link to a great forum for foam suppliers.

Foam suppliers. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...11&postcount=2

Types of Foam

Depron - very light weight, brittle; NOT contact cement safe. DO NOT use Welders Adhesive or forms of contact cement with Depron. The only glues I have used with this and with EPS foam that don't dissolve them is Gorilla Glue and the Foam-Safe CAs. Recently I've even found that too much Foam-Tac, or Foam-Tac covered in a restricted spot on a surface will generate gases that dissolve EPS/Depron. Don't cover Foam-Tac with tape or a covering immediately after applying it, if it does not have the ability to let the gas off. I have recently heard of a new glue that is safe on EPS/Depron. It's Loctite Go2 Glue. I haven't tried it but will the first chance I get. Home Depot carries it. It's cheap and flexible, 2 important features I find attractive. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-1...4417/203437879

Elapor - blended EPS & EPP

EPO (Expanded Polyolefine) - Horizon Hobby (HH) calls their form of EPO, Z-foam. Takes clear packing tape well. OK to use regular CA.

EPE (Expanded Polyethelene)

EPP Expanded Polypropylene - (pool noodles) low structural strength; covers with low temp coverings; clear packing or shipping tape does NOT stick to very well; use a spray adhesive or FoamTac with 3M Blenderm, fiberglass tape (drywall type), NexCare, a clear surgical tape...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Jun 10, 2014 @ 03:45 PM | 13,160 Views
Recharging LiPo batteries - the 80% rule applies to the storage capacity or AMPERAGE of the BATTERY, NOT THE VOLTAGE of a battery. For a 1500mAh battery that means it should not be discharged more than 1200mAh (0.8x1500 = 1200, or 80% of 1500mAh). You won't know that until you recharge the battery with a charger capable of showing you that, or you have a meter capable of reading those values before charging. A good charger will tell you how many mAh it took to completely recharge the battery back to 4.2 volts per cell. It should then be at the full capacity of 1500mAh.

A good rule of thumb to use for how far to discharge or fly a battery, is the nominal voltages associated with each cell, i.e. 3.7 volts per cell. If you don't go below 3.7 volts per cell, you won't hit Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) and damage your LiPo battery. Go below the LVC and you will most likely be putting back more than the 80% amp carrying capacity of your battery - NOT GOOD!

If you think you will be staying with this hobby, I recommend buying a quality BALANCE charger and stop using the cheap stock chargers that come with most RTF, ARF & BNF combos. They are OK in a pinch or on a trip where you don't want to carry a full blown charging setup. I won't recommend a charger or brand. New ones come out all the time but a good place to start is searching RCGs, or go to sites such as John Salt's for suggestions. http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-battery-chargers.html

I have found that new batteries will...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 28, 2014 @ 03:41 PM | 13,761 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

I am using the FX067C/FX052 tail motor and assembly rather than the stock V913 motor and assembly on both my V913s currently. One is on a raised and extended CF tail boom. The other is on a stock metal V913 tail boom.

UPDATE: FWIW as of 4/12/2016, the FX052 tail motor on my Bird #1 has 65 flights. Eight of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries. Bird #2's FX052 tail motor has 68 flights on it. Nine of those flights were using 3S 11.1V batteries.

The FX052 tail main and pinion gear sizes, and gear ratio allows the tail motor to work more efficiently than the stock V913 tail motor gears. I'm hoping it will last longer than the stock motor.

I feel the FX052 tail motor gives me better tail control. The V913 tail boom is 10mm and the FX052 tail boom is 12mm so the replacement assembly needs to be shimmed onto the 10mm boom. Steve_ discusses the FX052 tail motor and assembly more here on Page 161 Post 2404: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=2404

To use the FX052 tail motor most effectively you must also use the FX052 tail gear assembly. The tail motor mounts (screw holes) and the pinion gear are different from the stock V913 gear assembly. The FX052 tail motor pinion gear is too large to fit thru the opening of the V913 gear housing. If you only want to use the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | May 13, 2014 @ 06:08 AM | 13,840 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

These are the mods made to my #1 V913.

1) Swashplate mod. Hot glue and paper clip mod discussed in detail here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2139667
The new Heli-Factor aluminum swashplate (and main rotor hub & main blade holder) are discussed in my blog here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2258539

2) A new extended carbon fiber (CF) tail boom with raised tail motor mount was installed to be parallel with main motor shaft.
Boom and reinforcements to angle are CF tube and strips. The tail boom was extended about 1 inch, has 1mm thick sidewalls and is 10mm in diameter. The CF reinforcing strips are 4mm wide and 0.6mm thick. Horizontal stabilizing rods and vertical fins were removed initially but were reinstalled after about 5 months to deal with stress fractures. The torque from the tail motor twisting the CF boom resulted in stress fractures starting to show up.

I reinforced the stress fractures with dental floss wrapped around the boom and CA'd in place with thin CA.

More details are discussed in my "IDEA" blog entry on "Swapping the V913 tail motor & gear assembly for the FX052 tail motor & gear assembly" here.

3) Tail motor and gear assembly are from the Feilun FX052 helicopter. Some more info can be found here in...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Apr 04, 2014 @ 07:03 AM | 14,128 Views
EDIT 4/11/2016: I did a review of the Heli-Factor aluminum upgrades here.

Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on the main V913 forum. Those with much more knowledge than I have will be better able to help. The link is here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

I have included this Post also as Post # 28 in my BLOG entry, "WL Toys V913 helicopter Reference Source". Link: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2255975

Update: As of August 2014, Heli-Factor has the aluminum upgrades to the V913 swashplate. It is available thru HobbyDirect. Also available are an Aluminum Main Blade holder and a Rotor Head or Hub.
Aluminum upgrade swashplate link:http://www.hobby-direct.com/v913-cnc...late_g371.html

If you haven't modded the V913 swashplate, the odds are you will sooner or later, or give up flying the V913. This is a "MUST DO MOD" in order to fly the V913. I've tried to consolidate the most popular ones here for future reference.

1) The ever popular paper clip + hot glue mod by nmemennth

2) The copper tubing and wood screw mod by dan2pkheli

3) The CX4 CNC swashplate mod by fuzzyguy. This link is to his post in modding the V913 top frame plate and the anti-rotation bracket.

Two aluminum swashplates are available for fuzzyguy's swashplate mod.

Link to the LynxHeli.com aluminum swashplate

Or if you prefer, a link to the Xtreme.com aluminum swashplate
Posted by hifinsword | Mar 30, 2014 @ 03:53 PM | 14,763 Views
Although your comments here are welcomed, anyone interested in the V913 should post questions about the the V913 on that forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1791676

I wrote this blog hoping it might help others when using a 3S batt on the V913. This blog entry is for using a main motor that is designed to run on 3S batts instead of the stock 2S batts. That means I did not use the stock motor or any of the F45, E-1003, or any of the stock brushed 370/380 size 2S voltage rated replacement motors we have been using. They are all designed for 2S voltages.

Finding a 3S voltage rated motor is not the problem in converting a V913 to 11.1 volts. I found some main motors compatible with 11.1 volt. The V912/3/5 PCB cannot operate on 3S voltages. That is still the limiting factor in this conversion. Anyone wanting to fly the V913 on 11.1 volts might want to convert the Rx/PCB over to a compatible one such as found in some of the Feilun FX series of helos. The newest ones such as the FX070C also have a FBL feature that might make them the ideal candidate. But you will need to purchase a Tx compatible with it as well.

A. THE Xtreme 380X vs SUPER 370 MAIN MOTOR
I used both the Xtreme 380 BB motor and the HB Super 370 motor. Even though both motors have improved power over the stock motor when using 3S batts, the 370 Super motor seems to be the more powerful motor. I ran the Super 370 main motor for 10 flts on 3S. In a crash it burned up the...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:46 PM | 13,124 Views
Prior to parallel charging, you should be familiar with the 80% rule. My blog on the 80% rule can be found here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=2183673

Rule 1. All batteries must have the same number of cells
Rule 2. All batteries must be very close to the same voltage.
Rule 3. Do NOT charge batteries at a rate higher than the manufacturer recommends.

1) Charger (with power supply or DC power source)
2) Parallel charge cable or board
3) Balance cable or board (for multi-cell batteries)

To parallel charge any batteries, you will need a charger with a power supply (can be included or added on) and a parallel charge cable/board. Ready-made parallel charging cables or boards can be bought at your LHS but ProgressiveRC & BuddyRC have them. You will need balance cables if you are going to charge multiple cell batteries. You do not need balance cable for 1S batteries since there is no balance plug on 1S batteries.

1. Capacity = mAh (milliamp hours) values
2. Charge Rating = manufacturer's maximum recommended charge rate (i.e. 1C, 2C, etc).
3. Cells = 1S is 1 cell, 2S is 2 cells, etc.
4. Voltage = 3.7V/cell Low Voltage Cutoff (LVC) & 4.2V/cell full charge. For LiPos only, that means a 3.7V nominal value to LVC per cell. That's 7.4V for a 2 Cell (2S) battery and 11.1V for a 3S battery. Maximum charge would give you 4.2 volts per...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 21, 2014 @ 12:01 PM | 14,634 Views
This entry is now incorporated into my Blog as POST #12 in my blog thread entry here on "Reference Source for the WL Toys V913 helicopter" : https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...5#post30546498

Discussion: This procedure is intended for Fixed Pitch (FP) helos pilots to set up their helo to fly a stable hover relatively hands-free. It is for helos with only 2 servo links to the swashplate. You should always trim your helo mechanically before using the electronic trim features of your transmitter (Tx).

Generally Collective Pitch (CP) helos must have a level swashplate. This is NOT the case for FP helos. Many first time FP pilots try to level the swashplate of their FP birds. A level swashplate may, or may not allow your FP bird to hover hands-off. What is important is whether or not you can enter a stable hover hands-free with your FP helo, regardless of the swashplate position, level or not.

There are FP conversions helos that have FP heads on CP frames, and have 3 servo links to the swashplate. This procedure does not apply to them or CP helos.

Step 1: Zero out any trim to the Aileron (AIL) and Elevator (ELE) on the transmitter (Tx) controls. If the Tx has sub-trim in a menu or sub-menu setting, zero that out also.

If you are only adjusting for drift, skip Step 2 and go directly to Step 3. Step 3 assumes servo arms are already adjusted at 90 degrees to direction of travel on all servos.

Step 2: CENTERING A SERVO See MATERIALS at bottom of post.
(WARNING:...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 13, 2014 @ 03:06 PM | 12,334 Views
My current Rotary Wing squadron is made up of 2 V913s, 4 V911s & 1 V222 quad. I've sold 2 Blade 120SRs, 2 DH 9116s, a Blade 300X & a Blade Scout coaxial helo, my entry bird into the hobby. I've given my g/kids 1 GW 9958 & 4 V911s.

My fixed wing squadron consist of a UMX Pitts & Carbon Cub SS, a Dynam 1250mm SBach 342, a 900mm TechOne Extra 330 & a 57.5 inch wingspan FliteTest Storch. I've crashed beyond repair a TechOne FunFly and a Dynam Rapid. I've sold 3 UMX planes (P-40 Warhawk, Mosquito, F-27 Stryker) & a Hobbico Cessna Corvalis.

I have a FliteTest Mighty Mini Speedster build kit I'm still sorting out. Eventually I'll have a plane with flaps, lights and retracts. I expect it will be the F-4U Corsair and/or the P-51 Mustang. I'm waiting for FMS to come out with them in them in the 980mm class rather than the 1250 size already out....Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:58 PM | 10,972 Views
Table of Contents:

POST 1 - Favorites links below the Table of Contents

POST 2 - Link to How to reverse a servo.

POST 3 - Link to Breaking in brushes on a Brush Motor

POST 4 - Link to Balancing & Tracking Rotor Blades (Helos) or Props (Planes)

POST 5 - Link to BSI's Foam-Cure versus Beacon's Foam-Tac + Gorilla Glue

POST 6 - Link to ThunderPower 610HVC 100 Watt 10 Amp AC/DC charger

POST 8 - Link to Throttle cut for electric models


John Salt's site on Helicopters. Great info for the beginner.

Model Airplane News tips on Electric Flight. More great info for the beginner.

CaptJac's "3D is NOT for everyone" forum on RCGs. The title is self-explanatory.

NoFlyZone's "Beginners Guide to Motor and Prop Selection" forum on RCGs.

FliesLikeABeagle's software to pick motors and props.

Sandancer's Build Log on the Schottky Bus-Tie Circuit. Allows you to use 2 sources for power to the Rx that back each other up. I don't have the skills to build one but wish I did.

HeadUpRC's link to airplane props.

THE...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:33 PM | 12,341 Views
These are some terms newbies may not be familiar with.

Common acronyms:
AETR = channel sequence 1-4 used in Futaba-based protocol; A=aileron, E=elevator, T=throttle, R=rudder
AC or A/C = Aircraft
AB or A/B = Auto Balance - same as AL
AB or A/B = Afterburner
AKA = Also Known As
AL or A/L = Auto-Level - same as AB
AH or A/H = Auto-Hover
CG = Center of Gravity
COG = Center of Gravity
CL = Control Line
CL = Center Line
EDF = Electronic Ducted Fan
FFF = Fast Foward Flight
FF = Free Flight
FF = Fast Foward
FT = FliteTest (Brand)
FT = Full Throttle
HS = Horizontal Stabilizer, usually has the elevator attached to it. AKA the small or rear wing.
LA = Low Approach - plane does normal approach but waves off before getting close to touchdown. Earlier waveoff than Low & Go
LE = Leading Edge (of wing usually)
LED = Light Emitting Diode
LG = Landing Gear
LNDG = Landing
MLG = Main Landing Gear
MR = MultiRotor
ROG = Rise off Grass/Ground
ROW = Rise off Water
RTB = Return to Base
RTH = Return to Home
RWY = Runway
S&G = Slow & Go; airplane approaches runway but just before touchdown, power is applied and a/c resumes flying.
TAER = channel sequence 1-4 used in Spektrum's (DSM/DSM2/DSMX) protocols; T=throttle, A=aileron, E=elevator, R=rudder
TD = Touch Down
T&G = Touch and Go; airplane lands, power is applied while rolling out or after complete stop and airplane lifts off again.
TV = Thrust Vectoring (used to direct EDF nozzle or point a prop)
TW = Tail...Continue Reading
Posted by hifinsword | Feb 12, 2014 @ 06:18 PM | 10,903 Views
DSM2/DSMX compatible Lemon-Rx 6 Channel 3 axis Stabilizer/Receiver. The stab/Rx comes with or without a satellite receiver. It's $18.90 w/out the sat and $26.20 w/the satellite. I have used these for years in my 5 planes. A new Stab+ was recently released featuring an Auto-Balance feature not found in previous models. Using a DX6i they are compatible with DSM2. Using almost any advance Tx such as my DX18, they are DSMX compatible. These rate stabilizers are the reason I was able to move forward in the hobby (fly planes without crashing) and also why I am a Spektrum (DSMX) protocol user.
You can find them here under the Stabilizers / Telemetry heading.

PowerUp 17g Micro Servo
Best deal ever on a 17g servo. Sold here at HeadsUpHobby.com.
$5.95 HURC SKU: H-240
Specs: Analog Metal Gear Servo

Wt. 17.5g /062oz;
Torque 3.0kg/cm, 42oz/in 0.13sec @4.8V
Torque 3.5kg/cm, 49oz/in 0.11sec @6.0V
Op Volt 4.8-6V
Dimensions 29.2x 11x 32mm
Wire 6.75in 220mm long (only downside to this servo)
Futaba compatible 3F spline

LiPo Battery Charging Calculator
http://www.progressiverc.com/chargingdemand This link shows the time it takes to parallel charge multiple batteries and gives the charger requirements.

2ZO - RC modular Power Supply John Salt's writeup on this power supply system says it allows you to add multiple Power Supplies to build a system that can use 110 volt power and not break the bank.

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