Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
FPVsummituk's blog View Details
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 19, 2016 @ 04:23 AM | 860 Views
I only had one channel for the gearshift and diff lock......but I wanted to de able to drive in low gear and only lock the diffs when required.......so to do this I allocated channel 2 to a three way switch on the controller......then added a Traxxas T-Lock controller......part # 5697......to channel 2 on the Rmilec signal converter.......I then added a Y Harness to each A & B channel on the T-Lock switch......the gearshift servo lead was added to the A channel harness......the two diff lock leads were added to a Y Harness which was attached to one leg of the B channel harness......
So now the first position on the controller switch gives high gear/unlocked diffs.....the second position gives low gear/unlocked diffs......and the third position gives low gear/both diffs locked.......
But I also want warning lights on the instrument panel that can be seen in my goggles.....so, I added a cheap mini servo, modified into a directional switch, to each spare leg of the Y-harness from the A and B channels......LED lights were set into the instrument panel and attached to each servo switch......now I have one warning light for low gear and another for diffs locked......both shine directly into the on board GoPro.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 14, 2016 @ 10:10 AM | 2,310 Views
I decided that the RockApe's driver needed a companion to share his adventures with.......so I decided to add a Navigator, complete with a turning head.......I managed to cut enough of his back to expose the part that holds his head on, so I was able to cut it off, allowing me to keep the head and neck in tact.
I added a small servo into his back lining up the spigot with the centre line of his neck......I added a plastic tube to the spigot that was long enough to reach the top of his head from the inside.......I then drilled a hole through the top of his head and added a screw to hold it in place on the tube ( I wanted to be able to remove the head, should the servo need replacing)...... The helmet is held onto the head with double sided tape.......so it can be easily removed.
At the time I just added the servo to the steering, but I have since added it to a Y-Harness on the camera pan channel, so I can now make him look around while driving in a straight line.......as where ever the camera looks, so does the Navigator.
The photos shows the servo placement and the navigator seated in the truck.
This video shows the head movement.
Tonka Summit Animated Driver and Passenger (0 min 38 sec)

Posted by FPVsummituk | Apr 13, 2015 @ 10:56 AM | 3,071 Views
RockApe Specs:

Owner: FPVSummituk
Body: Tonka Bronco (1970s)
Chassis: Traxxas Summit
Esc: Tekin RX8 GEN2
Motor: Tekin T8 GEN2 1900kV Brushless.
Wheels: ProLine Desperado with Trencher X tyres.
Battery: 2 X Turnigy Graphene 7500 mAh 2S2P.
Tx Futaba T8FG Super Radio coupled to EZUHF Tx and 8 channel Diversity Rx linked to Rmilec Signal Converter.
EzOSD & GPS
GWS Single Axis PG-03 Piezo Gyro fitted to steering
Camera: GoPro HERO 2
RV Camera
LED Headlights
IP Warning lights: Blue LED - Low Gear. Red LED - diffs locked.
LED Rear Brake Lights
Truck VTx: RMRC 1500mw 1.3GHz
Relay VRx: 1.3GHz
Relay VTx: 600mw 5.8GHz
VTx Battery: Turnigy 2100mAh:
Relay HobbyKing DV Recorder
Goggle: Fatshark Dominator HD with 5.8GHz VRx, SpiroNet antenna
Headtracker: Fatshark Trinity Module
Weight: 26lbs.

Radio Configuration:

Channel 1: Steering
Channel 2: Diff Lock + Gearshift operated independently via a Traxxas T-Lock switch.
Channel 3: Throttle + Brake lights + Rear view camera + Ess One Plus engine sound module.
Channel 4: Lights+strobe lights
Channel 5: Headtracker pan + Passenger head movement.
Channel 6: Headtracker tilt
Channel 7: Passenger waving arm + Ess One plus Dixie horn.
Channel 8: Siren.

RockApe Accessories:

Reversing Camera activated automatically when reverse is selected.
120db Siren.
Actionman waves his arm when the Dixie horn sounds..
Passenger, The Navigator turns head left and right.
ESS-ONE PLUS - engine sound module and horn sound.
Police strobe lights
Roof Light Bar
LED headlights
LED Rear Brakelights
LED Low Gear warning light
LED Diffs Locked warning light
IP Warning lights: Blue LED - Lights on. Red LED - low gear/diffs locked
Gyro stabilised steering
EzOSD & GPS
Ground Station 1.3GHz to 5.8 GHz Relay. Antenna - Pepperbox for 1.3ghz and SpiroNet for 5.8ghz.
Truck antenna - 1.3ghz VTX - Mad Mushroom.
DV Recorder in the GS Relay to record direct from the 1.3ghz Vrx.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Feb 04, 2014 @ 11:54 AM | 4,221 Views
I decided to add a set of headlamps, so I found some on the Hobbyking site, http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...ke_Lights.html, they are twin LEDs, each lamp is made up from 12 high power LEDs, so with 4 lamps you end up with 48 LEDs, and boy are they bright.
They are quite deep, about 12mm, so they do stand forward a long way when surface mounted. So I decided to revamp the look of the whole front panel. The size of the LED sets determined the size of the headlamp surrounds and the size of the new radiator grille. I fabricated everything from 1.5mm ABS sheet and Perspex, and bought the aluminium grille mesh from eBay.
The lights are running from a seperate 6v battery and the attached photos show the light throw. The distance from the truck to the door is about 30 feet, and is the only illumination in the photo, so you can see that it should be fine for night driving, and I always have the Summit lights and the roof bar lights to turn on should I need any aditional light.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 26, 2014 @ 01:23 PM | 3,733 Views
I decided to make the RockApe more friendly. So I have adapted the actionman's arm so that he can wave to people. I bought a Turnigy TGY-778MG Alloy Case Digital Slim Wing Servo from Hobbyking. It is a very impressive little servo, I cut off the fixing lugs, removed the actionman's arm and cut a slot in his side to accept the servo. I held it in place with polymorph plastic, attached the servo horn to the arm and screwed it down to the servo. I added the servo lead to the siren via a Y harness, so now when I sound the siren the actionman waves to people.
Here are a few photos of the build.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Jan 18, 2014 @ 06:45 AM | 4,143 Views
I don't know if you remember, but when I first tested the RMRC 1.3ghz VTx and Vrx, I mentioned that I was getting a very slight video interference in the form of five fine blurry horizontal lines. At the time I put this down to either the RV camera or the pololu relay. But reading comments on the pololu site, it seems that it canbe affected by the pulses from the esc BEC lead, they advised adding a ferrite ring to the lead.
So looking on eBay I found this :-
Clip On Soft Ferrite Ring - ESC UBEC SERVO FPV RC 2.4G 5.8G TX FATSHARK UK
The great thing about it is that you don't have to disturb anything, it just clips around the lead as it leaves the esc, and best of all, the problem is totally solved, no more interference what so ever, and all for the grand sum of 2.44.
ImagesView all Images in thread
Posted by FPVsummituk | Dec 11, 2013 @ 12:10 PM | 5,300 Views
I have decided to build a long range, twin dipole antenna mount for my new EZUHF diversity Rx.
My criteria is that:-
I want the antenna to stand 600mm above the Tonka roof.
I want to be able to remove it, when required, so that I can just use the stock 150mm antenna.
I want them to be separated at the top by about 300mm.
I want it to be spring loaded so that it won't get caught up on overhead branches etc.
I need it to be able to fold flat for transportation in the trunk of my car.
It needs to be strong enough to hold the antenna weight in use without being either too stiff or too floppy.
I could only use plastic for support, as carbon fibre or metal, being conductive, would interfere with the signal.
So with all that in mind I started to design my mount. I purchased some 2mm dia. plastic rod, a length of rubber tubing, some metal springs, a reel of spiral cable wrap and 2 Spiral Cable Glands. I then ordered 2 x 24" SMA dipole antenna from RMRC. So, after adding a rubber grommet, 2 x steel bolts, washers, wing nuts and a sheet of plastic I was ready to begin.
The first thing that I did was make the base unit top, I angled each side to give the required separation required at the top of the supports.
Into each I added the plastic spring units.
The base was then designed to hold the bolts which would hold the whole assembly to the Tonka roof and at the same time retain the plastic rod via the rubber tubing.
With the rubber tube holding the plastic rods to...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 04:11 PM | 4,381 Views
As Nas (MyBee) said the other day, we have been working on a non-Arduino triggered rear view camera. I loved his RV camera, but said that I didn't want to get into programming, then he said that he thought that it could be done without the Arduino, and that was the time that he got me hooked. So several days of discussions, and Nas carrying out tests on MyBee, we decided on using the pololu relay switch to switch between cameras.
I ordered the camera and switch which arrived today, so with Nas's help I began the build, which turned out to be very simple.
Everything is wired up, the GoPro is now running through the pololu switch, and the camera is in location.
So I plugged it in and guess what, Nothing, just the GoPro, but no switching to the RV camera.
However, I attached it to a switch channel, and success, it switched from front to rear, no problem. So discussing it with Nas we agreed it was something to do with the throttle setting, or at least, how the Pololu switch reads the throttle input. Nas suggested that I should try to reconfigure the threshold values, using the supplied learning mode jumper.
This needs to be done for both forward and reverse throttle, after a couple of goes, I found that the best setting was zero to the wheels just about to turn, the Pololu switch then sets it mid way between the two, which means that, on the ground, the throttle movement just takes up the slack in the transmission, and the truck doesn't move. I also found that by just a...Continue Reading
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 03:57 PM | 3,652 Views
I used Calidave's body mount method, which uses the existing Summit body mount attached to the body so that it will just slide into the chassis and body clips applied below the chassis mount hold the body in place.
However, using this method the body can slide down unless there is something between the body and chassis to support the weight.
For this I have taken several rubber sealing grommets, cut a cross into the middle of the grommet, and push several one on top of the other over each body mount. You can add or subtract the grommets to get the right height and stance of the Tonka body on the chassis.
Not only does this method support the weight of the body, but it also acts as additional damping to eliminate vibration from the chassis over rough terrain, and the shape of the grommets make it look like a convoluted gaiter.
You can see how it looks in the attached photo.
Posted by FPVsummituk | Nov 20, 2013 @ 03:20 PM | 3,677 Views
I made a set of instrument dials that will fit the dial size of the Tonka IP.
They are saved as a JPEG and if printed off, full size, onto photo quality paper, will be fit behind the IP.
First I drilled each instrument dial leaving just the Tonka dial bezels.
Next I took a piece of clear acetate and cut it to fit on the back of the IP, around the steering wheel servo.
The photo image of the dials were individually cut oversize giving a couple of mm all round each dial.
With the acetate in place each decal was placed behind the dash and lined up with the holes in the dash and taped into place.
Once everything is lined up and taped, I then covered the whole area with duck tape, just to make sure that there would be no chance of moisture getting at the photo paper.

Click here to download a high resolution image.

This is how the IP will look once they have been applied.