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Posted by rcbirk21 | Mar 10, 2014 @ 12:17 PM | 5,747 Views
awesome setup joe!

Originally Posted by joesmith285 View Post
Correct, the biggest problem with my 103 last year was the 10 minutes it took just to strap packs in, and it actually kept me from flying it very much. 10 minutes to strap packs in for a 6 min flight

I wanted the 108 to be much more practical so I spent awhile thinking about designing a battery tray. I was looking into having a CNC cut carbon one or something similiar. After some more thought, I came up with the idea to just use battery trays from my 700 size heli. They are cheap, strong, and definitely proven to hold up to the abuse they will receive in this plane.

Here are a few pics. I used long flat carbon pieces to spread out the load. They are bolted to the sides of the firewall and to a piece of aluminum angle that is bolted into a former just above the wingtube.
Originally Posted by jsmith285 View Post
Joe is using a Heli battery tray, straps the batteries together and drops it in, Click. Been testing these for awhile. And they hold well. 1/4" hardened Drill rod.

Posted by rcbirk21 | Feb 29, 2012 @ 07:10 PM | 6,347 Views
thanks jared!

Originally Posted by JClark View Post
Kinda late to the party but I will chime in anyway.
The first thing you should do with a multi-servo surface set up is make sure you mechanically match all servo arms and push rods. The easy way to do it is to tape the surface neutral. Set all servo arms on the surface to 90 degrees of the servo case. You will probably have to use whatever you are using to match the servos with and sub trim each servo center to get the true 90 degrees. Then hook one push-rod up and manually turn the turnbuckle till the servo no longer buzzes at center. Do this step with each servo making sure that whatever length arm you are using matches the measurement for the correct hole on the surface horn. So that means if you are using a 2" arm you would measure 2" up from the hinge line and that is the hole you put the ball link on. Once this is correct you should have a very close geometry on every servo on that surface. Then you can set your max throw matching (again one servo at a time). Once the servos are matched for full travel then you will be surprised on how little the servos fight anywhere in the travel if they fight any at all. Taking the time to do the mechanical match could save your plane.
Also I see a lot of guys not checking there set up's at least every couple months. You will be surprised at what you will find after your new plane and servo gears get worn in a bit. I can almost guarantee that you will find that you will have to fine tune the electronic match again. Usually not much but every little bit helps.
OK off my soap box now.
If anybody needs any more help with this just shoot me a PM and I will send ya my phone # and I can walk you through one if needed.

Posted by rcbirk21 | Jan 28, 2012 @ 10:24 PM | 6,347 Views
Posted by rcbirk21 | Jan 07, 2012 @ 10:52 AM | 6,504 Views
Posted by rcbirk21 | Dec 31, 2011 @ 06:45 PM | 6,508 Views
Originally Posted by Andrew Jesky View Post
Push Pull is really nice with the turnbuckles on there but if your looking to run pull pull buy this stuff right here

This is the stuff I use that is really good, it has zero-no stretch and just works awesome. You do not even crimp it just twist it and heat the wire up and the nylon bonds its self together.

34235T23 Thats the stuff I run right there its 120lb test. Just copy that into the mcmaster site and it will come up its a 7x7 strand low stretch.

thanks for the tip andrew
Posted by rcbirk21 | Sep 26, 2011 @ 06:39 AM | 7,523 Views
Posted by rcbirk21 | Sep 25, 2011 @ 07:40 PM | 7,170 Views
00071 (5 min 34 sec)

Posted by rcbirk21 | Sep 25, 2011 @ 09:48 AM | 7,452 Views
Originally Posted by heritageflyer View Post
Early AM first flight of the day for the Electric 104. Hope I got one from the afternoon when he opened her up and the skies were all blue and purdy...
Fresh video of the first flight after an assumed esc overtemp shutdown
Posted by rcbirk21 | Jul 30, 2011 @ 01:34 PM | 7,630 Views
Ben's words of wisdom when it comes to servo setup:

1.Servos break, they're servos, so yes someone could have a bad servo. Take your linkages off and move the servos and try to resist them with your hands. A weak one is pretty obvious.

2.Make sure your surfaces move smoothly. This really means "If you are having problems with your rudder, fix your tailwheel, it's causing drag and overworking your servo".

3.Make sure your servo arm is not too long. Most arms have several holes for exactly this reason, and drill bits work every time they are tried. You want 30 degrees on ailerons, 45 degrees on elevator (rudder is not as critical, 40 degrees or anything close) while you have MAXIMUM endpoint on the Tx on that channel.

We fix dozens of setups at fly-ins every year. The above suggestions take care of the servos. Just for thoroughness, here's the other things we fix:

4.Put 75% expo (in the correct direction! Negative on Hitec and Futaba, positive on JR and spektrum) on all surfaces.

5.Make sure the elevator servo doesn't have sloppy gears.

6.Make sure it's not a HobbyKing prop.

7.Take off, trim the elevator and rudder for it to fly straight.

8.Roll it inverted, if it climbs or dives move the battery to compensate.

If you look at the specs on any servo, youhave the torque in oz/in, but most installation are compromised, resulting in this torque being reduced. You can really easily tell how bad a particular install is killing torque by looking at the endpoint adjustment on the Tx.

To be "Right", the endpoint should be maxed out. On my Tx, that's 140% on the ATV (servo travel or endpoint) adjustment.

If my servo arm is too long, I can't use the full 140%, I have to turn it down. Every bit it is turned down is reducing the effective torque of the servo. On my setup, on 4S, I can be compromised down to about 115-120% before I start noticing. At 100%, I can definitely feel it.
Posted by rcbirk21 | Jul 20, 2011 @ 08:02 PM | 7,829 Views
104 battery strap (1 min 7 sec)

Posted by rcbirk21 | Jun 10, 2011 @ 09:02 AM | 8,150 Views
Check out the new kilowatt club!
Posted by rcbirk21 | Feb 28, 2011 @ 04:51 PM | 9,453 Views
Originally Posted by cmala View Post
When using fixed endpoints you need to adjust your endpoints per the instructions on the help button next to the fixed endpoints option in the castle link software.

Turn idle and WOT down to around 30%
Move throttle stick to WOT
Turn on power to ESC
Adjust WOT EPA up until ESC beeps recognizing full throttle then go about 3% more
move throttle stick to idle it will beep again
adjust idle EPA up until ESC beeps recognizing idle stick position then go about 3% more

Then you leave your EPA alone. If you want to adjust anything after that to change the "feel" of the throttle curve you need to use something other than the end points

thank you cmala for the perfect explanation of how to do the fixed endpoint adjustment!
Posted by rcbirk21 | Feb 12, 2011 @ 12:33 AM | 8,638 Views
I pledge allegiance to the planes
of 3DHS, Scott Stoops and Andrew Jesky fame.
And to the flightline for where we stand
with our transmitter in our hand.
One group, under Ben, with batteries and stick time for all.

Posted by rcbirk21 | Feb 09, 2011 @ 09:54 PM | 8,729 Views
So finally got some pics of some new vinyl I had designed by Mr. Nick Frederick of

awesome stuff, couldnt have asked for much better. Feel free to contact him if you want a set for your own osiris (just tell him you want my osiris package...i think its the only one he has made so far)