GlennS's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by GlennS | Mar 21, 2012 @ 06:26 AM | 5,611 Views
Put together an Eflite Advance 25e.
Very well constructed and quick assembly. Setup chosen was:
Turnigy 3458 900kV motor
4 x GWS Park HPX servos (fit in cut outs without modification)
FrSky receiver
Trust 55A ESC with 3A Switching BEC
4S 3700mAh Turnigy battery pack
APC 11x7 prop
AUW about 1800gms

Power to motor WOT is around 700Watts on 4S pack
Its a nice stable flyer. Its no speed demon but will do vertical.
Posted by GlennS | Oct 11, 2011 @ 11:21 PM | 6,565 Views
Picked up a Turnigy 9x transmitter at the amazing price of $38 the other week, postage was about $20 though.

Modifications made included:

- fixing up the bad quality solder joints on the radio switches.
- ditching the AA battery pack and replacing with a Sanyo 3000mAh lithium Ion 2S2P pack.
- the resistor mod so that the battery pack low warning comes on at 6.5V.
- tightened screws inside the unit around the gimbles.
- added a flash programming socket on the side. Used a single in line header glued flush with the side of the radio.
- reflashed with th9x software.
- changed the radio module for a FrSky transmitter from Extreme RC.

Its great value after these changes have been done. It would not be that reliable as a stock radio though without these changes.

Some challenges in getting the radio reflashed:

- used Ponyprog with a serial port adaptor that works nicely on other Atmel processors, but this wouldnt work. There are comments that the loading on the processor pins is higher than what the serial interface can drive.

- changed to a parallel port interface using direct connections and taking power from the radio from the 9x thread on RCG, that wouldn't work using DT-006 selection.

- tried another parallel port interface circuit from the web using different pins and AVR-ISP interface selection, that wouldn't work either.

- read that Windows 7 and ponyprog dont work properly on the parallel port so went to XP and had success using the original parallel interface...Continue Reading
Posted by GlennS | Nov 23, 2010 @ 05:26 AM | 8,770 Views
OK, so I stripped out the perfectly good working KK controller from the Tricopter and replaced it with the great design from Alexinparis.
This one uses a Wii motion plus for the gyros and a Wii Nunchuk for the accelerometers all hung together with an Arduino.
It goes pretty well, but vibrations upset the accelerometers. The accelerometers are for auto leveling while the gyros maintain stability in roll, pitch and yaw.

Latest vibration dampening for the accelerometers is having it sandwiched between two pieces of EPE foam. Its slightly better than the other arrangement using dense gyro packing foam.

The local Sunday market here has many Nunchuks using ADXL335 chips. Bought a couple and had great success with autolevel. Autolevel has saved the copter from dumbthumbs a couple of times now. It carries the GoPro around nicely.
Posted by GlennS | Jun 14, 2010 @ 05:56 AM | 9,330 Views
Based on Signguy tricopter design using Kapeinkuk controller.

2200mAh HC Flightmax Battery
3 x Murata Gyros from old twister helis
Atmel mega328 microcontroller
Assan Receiver
Towerpro 2410-09 motors
GSW Micro BB MG ~6kg Yaw servo
Centre hub made from 7mm ply
Arms from 12mm x 12mm Tasmanian Oak timber
AUW 990gm

Video: Reading
Posted by GlennS | May 29, 2010 @ 08:00 PM | 9,094 Views
Turnigy 3548-900 motor
APCE 11x8 prop
TowerPro Mag8 65Amp ESC
Hextronic BEC
Futaba standard aileron servos
Futaba standard nose wheel servo
GWS Park mini servos for rudders and elevator
5S 3700 mAh pack
Assan Receiver
Changed all wheels for 70mm diameter ones due to rough strip

Flies very nicely.
Posted by GlennS | May 04, 2010 @ 07:10 PM | 9,419 Views
After a short 5 minutes of flying my Vortex 32, my new Turnigy SK3548 motor died in flight. It also took out the speed controller .
Luckily I had the height to get the model back safely.
The motor looked OK, no burned windings, but a winding check with an oscilloscope revealed that one winding had a turns short.

So, why throw out a motor that is basically brand new? They are cheap but as it turns out, there are none in stock at the moment. The time, logistics and costs of sending it back probably don't make sense considering the cost ($25), so being the impatient type, I will have a go at rewinding it.

Removal of the stator was easy and did not require removal of bearings and heating as read in the threads.
The motor was simply screwed down to a block of wood held in a vise. A few layers of carborundum paper were wrapped around the stator and a pair of multigrips clamped over the paper.
Without a lot of force, the stator was worked lose and then carefully lifted up from the bearing tube.

Removal of the old windings was a bit more difficult than it looked. Each turn is 17 strands of 0.202mm wire (32gauge), and it looked like they would unwind together. This was not the case, so after counting the turns on a tooth, the rest of the turns had to be "hacked" out.

There were were a total of 5 turns per tooth and 12 teeth on the stator.

Only one slot was a little damaged where the insulation had cracked off. Will replace this with a some...Continue Reading
Posted by GlennS | Feb 14, 2010 @ 05:25 AM | 17,897 Views
Conversion of a Multiplex Fox glider to electric RC.

Setup using:
Hobbycity 10gm 2000kV brushless motor
APC 4.75x4.75 prop
HXT500 single aileron servo
GWS pico elevator servo
Zippy 300mAh 2S battery
12A Hobbycity ESC
Assan micro 4 channel RX
Magnet to hold canopy.
Fuse stengthened with 3mm CF tube.
Wing strenghened with 1mm CF rod.
A little right thrust on the motor.
AUW: 115gm

Had maiden flight today, flew nicely just requiring a little up elevator trim. It handled the wind quite well.
CG set at 32mm from LE of wing.
Its a little twitchy when it slows down, easy to tip stall if you dont watch it!...Continue Reading
Posted by GlennS | Nov 27, 2009 @ 05:17 AM | 9,560 Views
This model is another attempt at an AP platform that can be easily packed up and put together in the field or carried in a backpack.
The design was inspired by a Komet and Bujora's Magneto Wing.
The wings are hot wire cut and then glassed with 3/4 oz cloth. The fuse is also glassed with same. The wings are held on the fuse by magnets, so its easy to pull apart and assemble. So far no sign of wings coming loose!

An Optio S10 camera fits into the nose facing out the side. The model turned out to be suprisingly tail heavy and the first flight was handful. The camera was moved to the final location to get the CG correct without additional weights.
Performance is very good considering the motor is a small cheap generic 2200kV 20Amp outrunner. This was chosen for weight so as not to make the CG problem any worse! Thrust is only about 700gms, the model with camera weighs 865gms, so performance is not bad.
Wing loading is 10 oz/ft2. Its not a glider but very manoeuvrable and can be flown in higher winds.
The camera is fired via an infrared LED that is located on the edge of the camera access hatch. A plastic diffuser conducts the light from the LED to the IR sensor on the front of the camera.
The shutter decoder is a variation on the design posted by designsoft:
some years ago. I changed the code so that it would send the Optio camera an IR shutter command.
Overall its a success, the only thing that...Continue Reading
Posted by GlennS | Nov 27, 2009 @ 04:54 AM | 9,292 Views
After sitting on the plans for well over a year (maybe 2?) now, its time to have a go at a Jart.
Will try the lost foam method where the blue foam plug will be glassed and then later the foam plug will be dissolved.
Have cut the wings from blue foam and laid a three section spar in a channel cut with a soldering iron on a steel ruler. The spar is 6mm CF tube for most of the way and has 4mm lengths telescoped at the tips where the wing is thin.
The wing cores will be glassed with a couple of layers of 2 oz cloth. Can't make up my mind whether to balsa sheet them first though.

The fuse is made from 3 layers of 25mm blue foam sheet that was hot wire cut and a bit of sanding.... lots and lots of dust! Still a bit of sanding to go.............
Posted by GlennS | May 05, 2009 @ 06:12 AM | 10,009 Views
Built this simple foam cutter for making wings. It is based on this one from CRCC
using local parts.
Works nicely, although have to watch the start where the cutting bow can catch in the template LE.
Finish of the cut is a lot smoother than a hand cut with the bow.
The link describes the parts required and construction method pretty well.
Basically, the hinged bar at the lower front pulls the bow through the foam under gravity (weights attached to bar).
To cut a tapered wing, the root chord side of the bow is pulled by a string at the end of the bar and the tip chord side of the bow attaches to an intermediate point along the bar to achieve the ratio cutting speed from root to tip.
Posted by GlennS | Apr 02, 2009 @ 07:12 AM | 13,813 Views
Model intended for AP UAV experimentation.
- Large electronics bay for camera / GPS / telemetry / flight controller
- Pusher for unobstructed forward view
- Tiltable still camera pod
- Live camera
- Stable R/E/A control (some dihedral)
- Robust L/G
- Simple foam construction
- AUW < 2kg
- Wingspan ~ 55inch

Still camera: Optio S10 10 megapixel
Cam controller: Home designed PIC processor infra red
Speedy: Castle Creations CC25
Motor: Turnigy TP2409-12D
Propellor: APC 8x4E
Battery: 1800mAh 3S
Telemetry: 430MHz Manchester endcoded, Volts, Current, Power, mAh + spare analogue inputs, home designed
GPS: Trimble Lassen IQ
Flight Controller: ARM7 incomplete
Video TX: 2.4GHz FM video
Posted by GlennS | Feb 12, 2009 @ 03:07 AM | 10,499 Views
Canopy cracked on the Komet the other day, so had a go at making one from a coke bottle.
The old canopy was used to make a plug by covering the inside of the canopy with Glad Wrap.
The canopy was placed in an ice cream container upside down filled with sand. The sand was mixed with a little water so that it could be formed into "walls" around the edge of the canopy.
Plaster of Paris was then poured into the upside down canopy and left for a couple of hours.
The resulting plug had a few wrinkles in it from the Glad Wrap, so the wrinkles were filled with some Red Devil filler.
After the filler had dried, the plug was placed in a 1.5litre coke bottle with the bottom cut off. Any gaps between the bottom of the plug and the wall of the bottle were filled with some 20x50mm timber scraps.
The heat gun was played over the bottle and the whole bottle shrunk much like heat shrink tube.
After cutting the canopy section away it was cleaned up.
The resulting canopy came out pretty well.
Posted by GlennS | Jul 14, 2008 @ 01:18 AM | 11,685 Views
The BBAP1 is a design by Tony65x55.
After flying the BBAP2, I thought it would be good to build a BBAP1 and compare the two. Also was interested to compare the Clark Y wing and the KFM3 wing.
The BBAP1 has a longer fuse and looks a little less "guppyish".
It flew very nicely with the Clark Y, but the CG for the wider chord KFM3 was further back, so wasn't able to balance it at the field.
Its rudder/elevator only at the moment.

It feels a bit underpowered compared to my BBAP2 when flying with camera.

Motor: KDA 20-20L
Prop: APC9x6E
Thrust: around 750gms WOT on 3S
Battery: Loong Max 1800mAH
AUW: 760gms without camera, 1000 gms with camera and controller
Receiver: Corona RD820

Cost in cellfoam.. around AUD12.00
Posted by GlennS | May 10, 2008 @ 04:02 AM | 12,246 Views
This design came about because I needed a camera plane that would pack down to a size where it could be hand carried. The model needed to carry a small compact camera around 200gms.
The fuse is 2 x 1inch laminated pieces of blue foam, hot wire cut.
Wings are hotwire cut EPS foam with carbon rod spars and carbon rod sockets in each wing to take the joiner rod.
The wings are glassed with 3/4ounce cloth and Polyurethane.
The winglets are screwed in with nylon bolts for easy removal.

It came out a little on the heavy side, 700gms without camera and 940gms with camera, so it needs a good throw for launching. Might make another set of wings with just tape on the leading edge and no glass for a lighter build.

The wing also has short aluminium rod locators that fit into the fuse either side of the joiner. The wings are kept in place by a spring loaded U shaped pin that goes though both locator rods.
The motor is a United Hobby 20-22L with a 9x6 prop.
A canon camera fits in the fuse. A PIC processor decodes channel 5 and fires the camera shutter.

Picked up a cheap plastic storage box that the AP wing fits in nicely for $12, that will reduce the boot rash.

2008-11-08 Update:
Changed the motor to a Towerpro BM2409-12 and prop to APC 8x4E. Now has heaps of thrust. Exended width of elevons to 38mm to give a little more authority. The rolls were a bit sluggish. This should make launches easier as it tends to nose down a little on takeoff.
Also changed thrust angle a little for a good compromise between full power and glide.
Now have an Optio S10 camera, saves nearly 100gms on the old one.
Built up a little IR shutter interface based on "Tugboat"s design and added some code to drive an IR LED.
Posted a video from some months back:
Posted by GlennS | Oct 20, 2007 @ 09:22 PM | 12,482 Views
Have finally finished my new AP plane.
Its a design from Tony65x55 called a BBAP2. It stands for Baby Blue Aerial Photography 2.
The blue in the name is because its made from blue foam.
Mine is made from Cellfoam 88 foam (white) although the monobloc is a chunk of 50mm blue foam. (Actually two 25mm thicknesses laminated).
Instead of the KFM wing on the original design, I thought I would try a Clark Y.
The wing was hotwire cut from medium density white foam and then braced with CF spars, one flat 10mmx2mm vertically across the join and two 4mm tubes most of the length of the wing.
The wing has a 3 degree dihedral.
To strengthen up the trailing edge, balsa aileron stock was glued to the TE.
To further strengthen up the wing, it was glassed with 3.4 oz. cloth and Cabots Crystal Clear PU varnish. The glassing made it quite tough.
The horiz. stab was also glassed to make it a bit more rigid.
The motor is a TP BM2409-18, which has no problem hauling the 1050gm model around.
It takes off in a few metres and gains altitude fast.
The model is only rudder elevator at the moment, but will be adding ailerons later.
The fuse is suprisingly rigid and the monobloc makes a great strong place for the LG and motor mounts to attach to.
Camera is a Canon A430, which weighs about 216gm with batteries.
Unfortunately, the video is only 10 fps at 640x480. The still photos are great though.
Link to first video:
https:...Continue Reading
Posted by GlennS | Oct 05, 2007 @ 10:41 PM | 12,660 Views
Weights of some building materials:

1mm PCB fibreglass with copper cladding removed = 2000g/m2
1/16th light ply = 600gm/m2 (from web?)
DVD clear plastic disc 1mm thick = 1326gm/m2
DVD clear plastic disc 0.5mm thick = 700gm/m2
DVD complete = 1500gm/m2
3mm balsa from Bunnings hardware = 450gm/m2
3mm light ply from Monton (poplar ply?) = 1300gm/m2
3.5mm plywood from Bunnings = 2100gm/m2
2.0mm model ply from Hallam Hobbies = 1300gm/m2
3.0mm Cellfoam 88 sheet = 143gm/m2
5.0mm Cellfoam 88 sheet = 267gm/m2
Posted by GlennS | Sep 13, 2007 @ 05:30 AM | 15,346 Views
Here are some photos of my simple bow. Its nothing special, but does the job for what I need. The wire is stainless steel fishing leader from local Kmart store. The wire is about 750mm long, a nice size for cutting wings up to 1.4 metre wingspan or so. The power supply for it is a home made unit that puts out from 10 - 20V, about 15-20V is right for the bow. It uses about 2.8 amps @ 20V.

Profili (available as a free web download) is used to print the templates that are cut from masonite.
The foam blocks have these templates tack glued at each end with a light spray of 3M77.
A pin or 2cm length of piano wire is set into the nose of each template to help guide the bow when starting. See photos.

I mark 1cm graduations on each side of the foam block near the templates so that while cutting the foam, a helper on the other side of the block calls out the numbers and I make sure that my side is going past the same graduations.

The storeman at work keeps an eye out for big pieces of foam for me, although this foam is usually low density stuff. A local foam fabricator sells about 4 densities of foam. I find the medium grades a good balance between strength and weight.
Posted by GlennS | Aug 29, 2007 @ 04:54 AM | 14,014 Views
This is a telemetry setup for my models so I can monitor performance from the ground.
The most useful report is mAh used, so I can land the model at the right time and not over discharge the pack.
The telemetry transmitter in the model monitors the voltage, current, instantaneous power, temperature and total mAh energy used from the pack.
Data is sent back to receiver that is mounted on the RC transmitter handle.
Transmitter and receiver are home built and designed.
Power output from the telemetry transmitter is only a couple of mW, but range is more than enough for practical use.
There is the occasional packet dropout when 150metres or so away, but the next packet is usually received. It is set up to indicate no signal when 3 consecutive packets are missed, so far this has not happened in flight.
Data is sent once a second, and the TX powers down between.
The transmitter end uses a pic microcontroller and 433.92 MHz module. A 100Amp hall effect current sensor is used.

The unit is currently installed in an electrified 40 size gas plane.
Posted by GlennS | Jun 20, 2007 @ 06:45 AM | 14,434 Views
Se5a Biplane based on Tony65x55's plans.
Made using Cellfoam 88 5mm sheet and EPS monoblock up front.
Wings heat formed over wooden mold.

Flies nicely!
Painted with Bunnings sample pot of acrylic, thinned 50/50 with Windex and airbrushed on.


AUW: 390gm
Static Thrust: 470gm @ 8500RPM (100W)
Motor: Apex Mini 300 using 31 turn delta wind
Receiver: GWS R6NII modified with microprocessor PPM decoder
Battery: 1300mAh 12C
Prop: 8x4 APCE
Posted by GlennS | May 12, 2007 @ 05:16 AM | 16,291 Views
Was getting worried about carrying Li-Po's in the car after a modeller's car was recently burned to the ground just up the road from home.
His battery went up for no reason (possibly damaged after hard landing?).
The car was totalled.

Fluffy Monster (John) picked up a couple of Ammo boxes from the local army disposals store. Thanks John!
They are tough and made from steel.
After hacking out a block of EPP to fit inside the box, I now have a nice battery transport box. OK, the EPP will burn, but the box is steel and airtight, so hopefully it will be safer than batteries sliding around in the back.