Sandancer's blog archive for February, 2013 - RC Groups
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Archive for February, 2013
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 21, 2013 @ 11:53 PM | 38,375 Views
The P-51B "Old Crow's" re-furbished Cockpit with the Malcolm Hood Canopy!

I've taken another step towards my re-furbished build of the P-51B "Old Crow" built and flown by NASCAR legend Jack Roush!

To keep scale with Roush's "Old Crow" a new canopy would have to be installed, so from the advise of our friend Tom Hunt, I purchased the Malcolm Hood canopy for the E-Flite P-51B from Park Flyer Plastic. The PFP E-Flite Malcolm canopy was actually pulled from the mold Tom made back when he did his P-51D to B bash.

The Malcolm canopy is a perfect fit for this new FMS P-51B. After I carefully peeled the oem canopy off, trimmed the end and side pieces off the Malcolm, it was just a matter of laying the canopy on the cockpit and following the lines with a Sharpie. Very little plastic had to be removed from both the front and rear of the canopy, and I mean VERY little! There is about a 1/4" on both sides that has to be removed as well. On the cockpit itself, both corners of foam at the windshield had to be sanded down a bit to clearance the Malcolm and that was it.

Once the trimming was done and I had a perfect fit to the cockpit, it was time to up-grade the cockpit itself. The next step was to remove the seat back and dashboard decal. The black paint FMS uses in their cockpits isn't the greatest, so it didn't take me long to blow it all off with my needle blower and 120psi. Once the paint was removed, I wiped everything...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 19, 2013 @ 05:12 PM | 38,055 Views
This is my Prop/Spinner & FMS G&C 4250-540kv set-up for the P-51B "Old Crow"!

I'm going to show how I set up the prop, spinner & 540 motor in preparation of my P-51B conversion to Bud Anderson's Old Crow that Jack Roush rebuilt back in 2001.

P 51B G&C 4250 540kv Dyno Test (4 min 21 sec)

I went thru my usual routine of weighing and balancing the blades, backing plate and spinner combo prior to the dyno run-up test.

As I did on the Big Beautiful Doll, I did Nick/v8Truckin's 1mm zip tie mod to increase the pitch to 10 +-. Because I didn't like the penetration the 17mm bolts had in the ny-locks I changed out the oem 3mm X 17mm philips head screws with 3mm X 20mm Hex head cap screws so I would insure I got adequate thread penetration thru the 3mm ny-locks.

Before I mounted the prop combo on the DuBro balancer, I needed to paint the yellow stripe on the spinner to coincide with the spinner on the Old Crow. The technique I used to accomplish that was to first mark border lines with a pencil where I wanted the stripe to be. Using a pic I had found of Jack's spinnner, I estimated about a 33% division between the red & yellow strips. Carefully following the pencil marks with 1/4" masking I then covered the remainder of the spinner with blue painters tape. Having the spinner mounted on a backing plate I took a 3/16" dowel to use as a pivot. That way I could spin it so I could apply the paint evenly. *Note*...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 15, 2013 @ 01:44 AM | 37,586 Views
The FMS P-51B and her Tail Feathers!

I'm going to start out with the P-51B's rear end, as that's where I encountered most of my problems!

When I first cycled the tail wheel, I managed to get 2 cycles out of it before it went dead, and of course, it was in the up/closed position! This is the first time I've had one of these PZ-15094 mini E-Tracts fail on me, not to mention being concealed by a couple of bay doors. I disconnected the extension and ran the lead directly off my MT-1 multi-tester and still couldn't get it to react, so the next step was to figure a way to get the doors open so I could get in there and extract that little sucker?

Actually it's a pretty simple solution. There is a pin in each door hinge which also retains the torsion spring. By pushing the pins towards the rear of the plane I was able to release the doors and had full access to the tail wheel assembly. Fortunately, I already have a couple of those tail wheel assemblies so there's no problem replacing it, but I am sure that when I contact Philip, he'll replace it, no questions asked.

Now on to the second problem. When I went to test fitting the elevator to the fuse for the Un-Boxing review photo shoot, it wouldn't seat properly, there was a 1/8" gap between the two. When I tried to pull it back out it was stuck. When I finally got it to release, the plastic male piece that was attached to the elevator broke loose and remained in the plastic female piece in the...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 12, 2013 @ 11:13 PM | 41,503 Views
This is my Un-Boxing and evaluation of the new FMS 1450mm P-51B Shangri-la!

As I reported on the FMS 1450mm V7.5 P-51D BBD, they have, once again, done their homework!

FMS has added a few new amenities to the "B" which I think most of us will like.
Most notable is the new sliding battery tray part #ST-110. Right now they don't list the slider rails as a part, but it won't be hard to come up with something that will work.
The radiator scoop is now open, but IMO I'm not so sure it will serve any function, as one of the vent holes is right behind it, and there really isn't anything in line for in-coming air to cool.
There is now a handy quick disconnecting wiring harness assembly for those of us who likes the 1-piece wing configuration.
The cockpit assembly now has both an entrance and 2 exits holes for ventilation, but I'm not sure the one magnet mounted in the rear will be enough to keep the cockpit locked in the fuse? As on the V7.5 "D", the pilot is full figured, and is held in place with 2 screws along with glue, but I found that the glue on mine didn't adhere to good, as he fell out as soon as I removed the screws.
*A note on the canopy*. There has been some discussion on the possibility of changing the canopy to the Malcolm hood utilizing the canopy off the 1400 Spitfire. Philip sent me one, and as Tom H stated, the Spitfire canopy is to small. The "B" canopy is 10 1/8"L X 4"W X 2 7/8"T.

With the...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 12, 2013 @ 08:06 PM | 39,680 Views
This is my build of the FMS 1450mm V7.5 P-51D..... "Big Beautiful Doll"

When I was un-boxing this plane, I quickly realized that FMS had done their homework, and there wasn't going to be much needed to get her airborne!

FMS P-51D Big Beautiful Doll (8 min 30 sec)

Big Beautiful Doll's specs:

Wingspan: 1450mm/57"
Length: 1240mm/49"
Weight: 2050g/72.3oz.
CG: 110mm from LE
OEM Battery: 14.8v 2600mAh Optional batteries: 4S 4000mAh or 5S 4000mAh
ESC: 65A w/5A SBEC
Motor: G&C 4250-540kv

My electronic specs:

RX..........OrangeRx Futaba FASST Compatible 8Ch 2.4Ghz Receiver
Flight Stabilizer....RX3S OrangeRX 3-Axis Flight Stabilizer V2
Sequencer....Micro Gear sequencer.
Lazertoyz Maxi Lite....Lazertoyz Maxi lite controller.
Motor.....G&C 4250-540kv
ESC......FMS OEM 65A
Aileron servos...FMS 9g servo #SU-123
Flap servo.........FMS 9g Digital servo #SU-124
Inner LG bay door servo.....Hextronik MG-14
Tail Wheel steering servo....HXT900 9g
Elevator servo...... Hitec HS-82MG Micro Metal Gear Servo
Rudder servo.......HK 929MG 9g

FMS suggested throws:

~~~~~~~High rates~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Low rates~~~~~~~
Ailerons: 28mm/1" up & down....................17mm/0.7" up & down
Elevator: 40mm/1.6" up & down..................24mm/0.9" up & down
Rudder: 25mm/0.98" left & right................21mm/0.8&...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 12, 2013 @ 01:11 PM | 38,709 Views
The Big Beautiful Doll's ~~Spinal Tap!~~

Let's face it, our scale WWII Warbirds are now equipped with a computerized control system. This is how I managed to get every thing to recognize each other.

UP-Date 3/19/2013: To expand my battery options in the BBD I enlarged the battery bay so I can fit my 5S 4000 lipos as well.

I utilized my hot knife at 75% heat and carefully melted the foam walls back about 3mm ea. It took me all of a couple of minutes to complete the mod. Now I can slide both my 4S 5000 & 5S 4000 lipos all the way forward to the stops.

I also changed out the inner Bay door servos with a set of Hextronik MG-14 metal gear servos.

The tail wheel steering servo was also changed out to a HXT900 9g. servo.


I'll start with the wings. I changed out the oem PZ-312s with a set of PZ-514s "FMS V7.5 P-51 BBD: The Landing Gear!", and then sequenced them with the bay doors using the Micro Gear sequencer.
The next step was controlling the Nav lights. Because I installed a tail beacon on the rudder, lights in the cockpit, and of course the landing lights "FMS V7.5 P-51 BBD: The Nav Lights!", I needed something to control them so I chose to use the Lazertoyz Maxi lite controller.

Once I had all the wing wiring figured out, I needed to devise a way to simplify the connection between the 1-piece wing configuration "FMS V7.5 P-51 BBD: The 1-Piece Wing!" and the controllers in...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 09, 2013 @ 02:44 PM | 38,442 Views
The Big Beautiful Doll's Power Plant!

This is my run-up test and installation of the FMS/G&C 4250-540kv motor.

G&C 4250 540kv Test (4 min 11 sec)

As you could see in the vid, the G&C 4250-540kv produced 929W at 63A off of a 4S 5000 30C lipo. I also ran a test (no vid) using a 5S 4000 30C lipo and got 1220W at 72A, so with a 5S this 540 will eat up the oem 65A ESC in short time depending on flying style. I will probably move up to a 85A + ESC if I choose to run a 5S lipo.

Prior to re-installing the motor back in the plane, I took the time to do a little detailing in the engine compartment. Once again FMS has done a great job in making sure there is adequate ventilation thru the engine compartment, so there's very little, if anything to do! I just repainted it with MM Green Zinc Chromate , and that was it! Besides the nice wide open lower chin scoop, FMS has made the two side ventilation screens now functional. They are ducted into the engine compartment and help add to the ventilation.

I am also pleased with the new engine mount configuration as it appears the circular plastic mount is well secured in the foam. That and the motor X mount, the whole assembly appears to be rock solid. There were a couple of changes I did make thou.
1. There were 4mm nuts used as spacers on the 3mm philips head mounting screws. I felt this created to much spacing between the spinner and the cowl for my liking so I used a couple of flat washers instead.
2....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 07, 2013 @ 03:49 PM | 39,013 Views
The Big Beautiful Doll's Navigation Lights!

FMS P-51D BBD_Nav Lights (3 min 55 sec)

Because I was going to add a few embellishments to the BBD's light system, I had to do some mods to the existing nav lights so I could use the Lazertoyz Maxi Lite controller. Observing the nav lights were working off a 5v input I knew there had to be a resistor somewhere inline? Sure enough, there were 75 ohm resistors embedded in the shrink wrap at the LEDs. The Maxi has built in resistors to handle 3v 5mm LEDs such as those FMS uses in their wing nav lights, so having two resistors on the same line would diminished the mcd output of the LED. After removing the resistors, re-soldering, and installing new shrink wrap, I re-installed both the red/port & green/starboard LEDs back in their respective housings. I have the nav light leads wired into the 16-pin harness and plugged into the "solid on" ch. 3 on the Maxi controller.

The next step was to install a beacon light in the rudder. I cover how I went about doing that on the "Tail Feathers" section. Because of the limited size I had to work with, I chose to use a 3mm flat top red LED with 10,000mcd / 115 output. I installed a JST connector on the 32ga. red/black silicon wire lead, and have it plugged into "double blink strobe" ch. 7 on the Maxi.

With the beacon light mod done, it was on to the cockpit illumination. I used two 5mm diffused red LEDs anchored on with a couple...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 06, 2013 @ 12:00 AM | 39,206 Views
My BBD 1-Piece Wing Mod!

I'm going to illustrate how I go about making the wings a 1-piece unit.

The first thing I always do is eliminate those 3mm philips head anchor screws. On the BBD I chose to use (2) 6-32 X 2 1/2" hex head cap screws in the rear mounts, and (2) 6-32 X 2" in the front mounts. I had no problem tapping the rear mounts as they consist of a 3mm nut encased in a plastic anchor assembly embedded in the fuse. The front mounts, on the other hand, proved to be a bit of problem! They consisted of (2) 3mm T-nuts embedded in some kind of high density foam, not plastic....foam? Needless to say, when the 6-32 tap hit those T-nuts there wasn't much securing them in place so they let go. I ended up having to cut the whole anchor assembly out. I'm kinda happy I did, as I'm not sure how long that configuration would hold up?
My solution was a piece of 9/16" X 1/2" X 85mm UHMW plastic. I drilled and tapped the two 6-32 holes 75mm apart. I then drilled several holes in the plastic anchor for the glue to penetrate and bond to. After securing the plastic mount with epoxy, letting it set for 30 min., I dripped several drops of water in the seams and applied a generous amount of GG securing the whole repair with tape to help corral the GG expansion. Once everything was dry I applied a coat of Krylon Bright Silver and I was good to go!

Before I ever glue the two wing halves together, I like to make sure I have all the mods done...Continue Reading