Sandancer's blog archive for February, 2011 - RC Groups
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Archive for February, 2011
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 05, 2011 @ 03:47 AM | 19,576 Views
I did a major modification to the B-25 TONDELAYO landing gear.

I didn't like the looks of those big bulky bay doors hanging down when the landing gear was deployed, so I adapted the mod I did with the bay doors on my "Auntie Samantha" P-51, and made them disappear.
Once again, I utilized the Microgear sequencer to get them to do what I needed. Like the P-51, I got the doors to close after the Landing Gear deployed. First thou, I needed to figure a way for the doors to clear the struts in the closed position. The solution was quite simple, I just cut slots in the doors so they would clearance the legs.

Once I figured out what I needed to do with the doors, I sat out to replace the wheels with something more scale. For the nose wheel I chose the DuBro 1 3/4" spoked wheel. For the main gear I first tried a 2 1/4" wheel, but there wasn't enough clearance to close the doors completely, so I settled on a set of Robart 2" diamond tread Goodyears.

With the Microgear controlling the LG/Bay doors, and those Goodyears, the TONDELAYO is looking Goooood!

B-25 Tondelayo__Landing Gear (3 min 37 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 04, 2011 @ 01:40 AM | 20,994 Views
Take my word for it......wiring this plane will take patience, preservation, and a degree in Electrical Engineering, (just kidding). It's really not all that hard to do, just don't let any of those tags come loose!

NOTE: The original review of this plane on the Nitro website stated that they were using a 4s lipo. FMS recommends a 3s lipo so I am using a 3S 3300 30C lipo in mine. Over time it has been proven to be the correct lipo for this model. DX Stickman/Lee, among others, have reported shorter life spans on the stock motor when they tried using 4s!

On my plane I have 16 leads from each wing, 10 leads coming from the tail, and 9 leads coming out of the nose. Couple that with 3 y-connectors, and 2 tri-connectors, not to mention the ESC leads......I have my work cut out for me.

To simplify the Nerve system and make it less confusing I am once again using Futurlec multiplex Headers. On this system I needed to cover the sixteen leads from each wing so I used a 20-pin Header for both. It does take time to solder each harness together, but in the long run, if I need to remove the wings it's simply a matter of unplugging the two harnesses and the ESC leads.

UP-DATE 2/07/2011: I changed the ESC lead to the XT60 connector, and wired in the CC 10A BEC. I pulled the ESC red lead from the connector and insulated it with heatshrink.

I mounted the Lander Nav light controller and the Microgear sequencer on the inner hull with Super blue velcro....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 04, 2011 @ 12:26 AM | 18,525 Views
Wellllll....once again, I had to do some work on the tail feathers to get them to waggle properly!

Early on I noticed the rudders seemed to be a bit stiff, but after flexing them numerous times they seemed to loosen up a bit? After gluing them on to the elevator with epoxy and hooking the control rods on in the correct orientation, I noticed the main control rods were bowing out when fully extended, not to mention the associated servo hum! I could not find any linkage binding anywhere so the only logical reason was the foam rudder hinges. I ended up re-hinging the control surfaces with pin hinges and that cured the problem.

While I was fiddling with all the linkage I noticed they were all installed with the cut ends of the Z-bends facing the foam and a couple were actually rubbing against the foam. Not wanting to run the risk of one of those ends digging into foam during a flight, I decided to re-orientate them in the correct position with the ends on the outside.

Once I was assured everything was operating in a smooth manner I installed the elevator/rudder assembly on the fuse. Once installed I proceeded to run a servo test to once again make sure everything was going to be okay, but once again I was having a binding problem? Upon closer examination I found the rudder linkage was pinched between the fuse and the elevator. The channel that was cut in the fuse section was not wide enough to clearance the control rod. After making a couple small...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 03, 2011 @ 11:02 PM | 18,870 Views
The pics I have seen of the "TONDELAYO" show a green tinted upper windshield visor. I decided to match that, so after removing the canopy I applied a couple of light coats if MM Green with the airbrush on the inside of the 2 visor panels.

While I had the canopy off I blew all the old paint off the foam cockpit with an air gun sporting 100 psi. I then cleaned it with some warm soapy water followed up with a wipe down with alcohol. Once dried I applied a coat of Adhesion Promoter, painted the dash flat black, the cockpit with MM Interior green, and the seat backs with MM Leather brown. Once the paint dried I reattached the pilot and co-pilot with some hot glue, and then re-glued the canopy back on with Formula '560' canopy glue.
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 03, 2011 @ 10:26 PM | 17,787 Views
I got the Radio pod from Hobby Lobby along with the decal proofs of their B-25 "Apache Princess" livery. I have been thinking I might change the livery to the "Apache Princess" as I have physically seen the girl close up on a couple of occasions. If I can come up with a close match to the green camo I'll do it, but right now I don't want to re-paint the whole plane, just the areas where the decals would need to be replaced.

I made a mold of the original radio pod and used Polymeric Isocyanate casting resin to form the two halve pieces. Once they hardened I glued the two halves together with epoxy, filled the seams, sanded and painted.
Posted by Sandancer | Feb 02, 2011 @ 02:25 AM | 15,524 Views
Once again I had to get in there and change out all that fiberglass with Carbon Fiber.

First I cut to length the two .394 CF rods to replace the fiberglass wing spars.
Tip: I found that if I tapered the tips of the CF rods, they will slide into those wing clamps much better and with less friction.

Once I got the two spars cut and tapered, I proceeded to remove the flat fiberglass spar and replace it with .325 x .125 CF using GG as the bonding glue. Once the glue had dried I filled the seams with Squadron putty, sanded and re-painted the wings with a mix of MM Azure blue and white to match the blue underside of the wings and nacelles.