Sandancer's blog archive for November, 2010 - RC Groups
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Archive for November, 2010
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 24, 2010 @ 08:43 PM | 19,841 Views
Corsair-Robart Goodyears.m4v (1 min 44 sec)

With the combination of the 90 rotating struts and the split bay doors, the Landing Gear on the Corsair is quite unique for a model of this size.

The nifty little sequencer makes everything work in unison, and FMS has made it really easy to hook into the electrical system including the Y-harnesses that are included.

The only improvement I could find on the main LG was changing out the stock wheels and tires. I chose the Robart 2 3/4" Goodyear ribbed tires w/spoked scale wheels. I was hoping to use the 3" Goodyear's, but the tire was to big to fit in the wheel well, so I settled for the 2 3/4".

To get them to fit properly so the spoked caps would fit on the wheels, I had to cut 3/16" off the axle. I tried several different collar combination's, but none would allow enough clearance for the hub cap. I finally came up with a simple way to hold the wheels on the shaft with the use of an O-ring. First I took a 10-32 die and threaded it on the shaft as far as it would go just to get some kind of bite to retain the O-ring. I then installed 2 nylon spacers both on the inside and outside the axle hubs to center the wheel where I wanted it. Once done, I slipped the O-ring on, adjusted it so the wheels would spin freely (I spun 'em a lot to make sure the O-ring stayed in place)! After being assured it was going to work, I installed the 8-spoked hub cap, checked the air pressure, and I'm good to go!

After all the pre-fab was done, I took the wheels apart and sprayed them with Krylon Metallic Bright Silver.

UP-DATE 11/29/2010: I change out the O-ring I was using to hold the wheel assembly on the axle with a 5/32" push nut.
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 15, 2010 @ 11:51 PM | 17,500 Views

After completing the Flaps and the 1-Piece wing mods I proceeded to get started on the wiring, and getting the electronics located where I wanted them.

Because of the cramped quarters in the cockpit, I thought that nifty recessed box in the wings was a perfect place to install the LG sequencer and the Landers Nav Light Controller. This worked out great as I was able to combine both the aileron and flap leads into 1 which only took up 6 of the 14 pins on the 14-Pin multiplex connector I was going to use. I then combined both the B and C leads for both of the LG assemblies to the sequencer thus eliminating another set of Y-Connectors. I then ran the sequencer lead to 3 more pins on the multiplex. The switched lead for the Landers Controller took up 3 more pins, and that left me 2 pins to hook up leads to the tail light. The leads for the landing light will come up thru the cavity just behind the box and run directly to the controller.

The multiplex connector comes up thru the opening in the fuse, and plugs into the RX already mounted in the cockpit. WaaLaa, no Y-harnesses and annoying excess wiring hanging around and cluttering up the cockpit! It looks like the only 2 Y-connectors I will need is the one combining the rudder and tail wheel steering servos to the RX, and the other to combine the tail wheel to the LG lead. That will work fine as they'll be tucked away somewhere in the tail.

This plane is fast becoming my favorite!

UP-DATE 11/28/
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 14, 2010 @ 02:20 AM | 18,146 Views
Now that the flaps are done, the servo sockets cut, the wiring ran for the Nav lights, and the holes cut for the Ma Duece guns, it's was time to glue the 2 wings together and make them a 1-Piece unit.

Because of the gull wing configuration, I picked to spots, one aft and one forward (as illustrated in thumb #1). I utilize (2) .3940" O.D. CF Tubing for spars, (1) 4" long for the aft location and (1) 8" for the LE location. To line up the holes on both halves I cut 2 pieces of 3/8" X 1/2" brass tubing and pressed them in the chosen location on one of the wings. I then lined the other wing up and squeezed the two together to leave an indexed impression in both wings. Knowing I was going to be using Gorilla glue with it's expansion properties, drilling the (4) 3/8" holes in the two wing halves didn't have to be in perfect alignment, but I did manage to get that process done to my satisfaction.

I then cut a 1/8" ply plate 2 1/2" X 3 5/8" to go in the base of the box for additional reinforcement and to serve as a foundation for the velcro I would use to secure the electronics I plan to mount in there.

After applying the GG in the spar channels and wing mating surfaces I secured the wings back on the fuse to insure a perfect alignment. To help corral the GG I ran some tape down the seams of the wings to subdue the GG expansion, and also put a strip of tape on the fuse to prevent any glue expansion from seeping out...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 08, 2010 @ 09:50 PM | 26,760 Views
In my opinion, the Flaps on the Corsair are AWESOME!

F4U Corsair Flaps (1 min 49 sec)

I have started the mod, and the starboard wing has been cut, channeled, hinged and pinned.

TIP: The design of the flaps being divided into 3 pieces on the Corsair was:
1: Because of the gull wing design it required the inner & center flaps to be separate by design of course.
2: The center & outer flaps were divided so the wings of the Corsair could fold up for storage on aircraft carriers.

The point I'm making here is....If your not freaky about scale, and you have no intention of making the wings fold up, which would be quite tricky with foam, then it would NOT be necessary to cut the center/outer flaps apart! They can be left as a 1-piece unit and still function.

Here are some preliminary pics of what I've done so far!

UP-DATE 11/11/2010: I've completed the starboard wing flaps today. I decided to go with the Dubro Heavy Duty Hinge & Cotter Pin . They worked out great when it came time to do the gluing. I was able to remove the cotter pins and separate the pieces while the CA dried so it wouldn't seep into the hinges. It will also allow the removal of one of the flaps if need be?

I used a piece of .020 High Impact Styrene 1 1/2" x 2" for the stiffener between flap 1 and flap 2. I ended up pinning flaps 2 and 3 with some CF rod and glued them together. I liked how solid this made flaps 2 & 3 that I decided to make...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 06, 2010 @ 12:10 AM | 18,503 Views
I am going to utilize the Ramoser 3-Blade VarioPROP with the Corsair.

With the VarioPROP the options are open to what combination will work best with the SK 580. In these pics I am showing the 15" scale blades and the recommended 13" scale blades.

I will also be able to install a 4-Blade hub, and have the option of running 4 x 13's, or go to a 2-Blade set-up, and experiment with 2 x 13", or 2 x 14" speed blades, or even 2 of the 15" blades?

My plans are to run a 5S lipo with this set-up, and as soon as it arrives I will post performance specs. respectively.

UP-DATE 12/07/2010: I thought I would preview additional options the VarioPROP offers for the Corsair. In addition to the 3-Blade set-up, I can also install the 4-Blade hub, and experiment with either the 13" & 15" Scale blades, or the 14" Speed blades which I will probably use in a 2-Blade configuration?...Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 11:40 PM | 17,030 Views

This mod took a little more time to complete as I had to split the forward section of the fuse so I could re-align the firewall correctly. Once everything was glued back in place I could then design the a new motor mount for the SK 580 to fit the Corsair.

I once again used the X mount that came with the motor. I then designed a firewall mount and then joined them together with aluminum tubes.

UP-DATE: 1/23/2011:
I've updated the attachments to show how I attach the motor mount to the firewall. I've also included pics of the TGY SK 5055-580kv retaining shaft collar that comes with the newer motors.

UP-DATE 2/16/2011: I received the up-dated Turnigy/FMS motor mount from Gary at CustomRC yesterday and wanted to post some illustrations of various options this new mount has to offer for those who have chosen to use the Turnigy motors in the FMS 1400 Warbirds.

I'm pretty sure this mount will adapt to other manufactured motors, but all I have are the Turnigy's, so that's why I'm using them as examples....Continue Reading
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 11:18 PM | 16,230 Views
I had to make some exhaust stacks for this bird. It only seemed right!

I used a combination of 1/2" x .014 brass tubing for the housing, and some 7/32" x .014 aluminum tubing for the exhaust stacks. Once I had the correct lengths and the pieces epoxied together I cut and sanded them to a 30dg. angle.

I then painted the assemblies with Dupli-Color dull aluminum and flat black in the exhaust tips.
Posted by Sandancer | Nov 05, 2010 @ 10:41 PM | 17,894 Views
Once again "Goofie" was excused and sent home. His replacement is the ESM WW II American pilot. Some serious surgery had to be done so he could fit in the cockpit.

To repaint the interior I first removed the blue paint with compressed air and a needle valve air gun. Once I got all the paint off I sprayed a coat of Dupli-Color Adhesion Promoter CP199 to seal the foam. I then painted the interior glare shield with Krylon Semi-Gloss Black. The interior was airbrushed using Model Master Interior Green FS34151, and the seat with MM Leather. I then did a pin stripe down both sides to simulate some aluminum channel with MM Bright Silver. The canopy was tinted with Ritz Royal Blue.

I followed John/Allelectric's hatch mod and cut the forward cowling to open up the battery compartment. When I'm done with all the mods and ready to repaint the plane I'll secure the forward hatch to the cockpit with glue and a couple of CF rods and make it 1-piece. I'll retain the 2 magnets to hold the cockpit/hatch assembly in place, and make a retainer piece for the front of the hatch to secure it to the cowl so internal air pressure won't blow it off.

UP-DATE 11/21/2010: I've got the Battery Hatch mod done. I made a retainer plate for the front of the hatch to secure it in place. Because the lower foam lip at the front of the fuse was a little feeble, I made a 3/32" ply plate to reinforce that area and glued it in with GG.

I had to enlarge the...Continue Reading