Have you ever wondered…
Which brand of battery is better? Are they all the same? Is the “Industrial” version better than the regular version, or how about the “Plus” version? Does “Heavy Duty” mean it works better? Are the private labeled batteries rejects from the name brand battery manufacturers?
I found myself wondering the same things, and decided to do a series of tests.
I picked a variety of batteries. While my list is far from exhaustive, I think this is a good representation. The graphs are pretty full, but if I have made any glaring omissions, additional data may be added in table form.
Alkaline battery capacities are listed at a reduced load that is typically well below the demands of a lot of our lights. The capacity is reduced at higher load levels. Energizer lists the following capacities for comparison:
AAA 1.250 Amp Hours
AA 2.850 Amp Hours
C 8.350 Amp Hours
D 18.000 Amp Hours
Posted by bigtruck169 |
May 07, 2015 @ 03:29 PM | 3,474 Views
cheap DLG for $75 with hotwire foam -https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1532669
old thread, but lots of talk on the hotwire material -https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=436753
Posted by bigtruck169 |
Apr 29, 2015 @ 10:56 AM | 3,553 Views
LED Lumen to Watt
To replace a 100-watt incandescent bulb, look for a bulb that gives you about 1600 lumens. If you want something dimmer, go for less lumens; if you prefer brighter light, look for more lumens.
Replace a 75W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 1100 lumens
Replace a 60W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 800 lumens
Replace a 40W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 450 lumens
KONTRONIK FUN480 3300KV WITH KPG4.2
COMES IN ORIGINAL BOX.
My plans changed i decided to go pylon instead of folder.
i'd like $120 plus shipping and fees, so $130 out the door
you could do the following setups on this
13x8 on 3S, pulling 38A, glider, warmliner to 2.5m, Siren, Orion, all esprit glider etc..
14x6 on 3S pulling 31A, glider, very warmliner up to 2.5m (slower, more thrust)
10x12 on 3S pulling 45A small pylon racer, 50", decent speed, Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, plasma etc.. sunracer
10x12 on 4S pulling 74A, fly burst, up to 8 seconds throttle, Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, plasma etc.. sunracer
10x17 on 4S pulling 90A, fly burst up to 5 seconds throttle. Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, . sunracer, xplane, viper
14x14 on 4S, fly on switch, 3 to 4 seconds burst, 100A ESC
Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, . sunracer, xplane, viper
12.8x13 on 4S fly on switch,...Continue Reading
Creating a solid mount for the motor is imperative. Attach wood to the inside of the hull with epoxy and mount your motor mount to the wood. Be warned that the plastic hulls are generally on the thin side and will have a good amount of give to them. This is another reason to use wood to stiffen the area where the motor mounts. Don't be surprised if there is some slight "twisting" of the hull when the motor is fully torqued.
When getting a rudder, it is possible to get a rudder with a built in water pick-up for the cooling system. When using these, it is very important to get the prop as close as possible to the rudder. The prop wash is what forces the water through the tubing. No prop wash, no flow. The forward motion of the boat is NOT enough to move the water through the tubes. (Learned that one the hard way
Posted by bigtruck169 |
Feb 17, 2015 @ 11:28 AM | 5,949 Views
1 hp = 746 Watts.
EDF - 85% exhaust reduction Fan swept area( FSA)
you want it the exact same size as the rear of the edf tube, but in a normal configuration, you could vary the size of the opening depending on what speed you want more thrust at... a smaller opening will give less initial thrust, but will give more thrust when the plane is up to speed, allowing a higher top speed, where a larger opening will give more initial thrust, but will give less thrust once the plane is up to speed, meaning a lower top speed....
FSA caluclater - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1160865 http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/info...alculator/#FSA
the longer the inlet duct, the larger the inlet area should be. a good compromise would be an 85% FSA inlet, with an 85% FSA exhaust area. as a rule of thumb, you should never go smaller on the inlet, than the exhaust are
Intake area depends on the complexity of the internal ducting. corsair Nut had and F86 with an intake area roughly 70% of FSA and it performed very well. With a straight duct, smaller intake.area will work well. In complex shaped duct, I doubt that intake area would have worked as well.
Having said that, try to aim.for an intake area between 85% and 100% of your fans FSA. This will give you the beas performance overall. The smaller the intake area, the faster your top end speed will be, but static performance will be lower.
Latrax was founded by Jim Jenkins in 1977. The first R/C toy was the Alpha, followed by the Lancia Stratos, Mustang Cobra, 77 Camaro, and the 1979 Firebird. On the Hobby side, the first Latrax Hobby R/C was the Corvette, followed by the 1979 Firebird, Porsche 917, and the Hustler Buggy. I believe that there was a Latrax Cigarette Racing Boats, one that was a toy model and a second one as a Hobby model. As far as I know, those where the only Latrax models available, along with the parts accessories.
What makes this story so ironic was the fact that Mr. Jenkins sold Latrax to Brinkmann in 1980. And a few years later, around 1982, Brinkmann closed down the company because it was not part of their core operations.
With that said, Mr. Jenkins went on to co-found Traxxas in 1986, which was about 9 years after he establish Latrax. Today, his son, Mike Jenkins is sole owner of Traxxas, a company that was built on top of the Latrax brand.
It would be great if someone would write a bio on the origins of Latrax and the people behind it and how it led to the creation of Traxxas.
description **PLEASE READ THIS** for anyone looking at this model displayed in my showroom and wondering if I will sell it? PLEASE DONíT ASK!!! I get numerous requests from TC members wanting to buy cars displayed in my Tamiyaclub showroom, and to be honest I get very annoyed when people ask to buy something that is clearly NOT FOR SALE!! This car is part of MY COLLECTION and...Continue Reading