Jack_LaLanne's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by Jack_LaLanne | May 08, 2015 @ 02:39 PM | 3,836 Views
Finally got around setting up flaperons in ardupilot on apm 2.5.2 in my flyfly asw28. This plane is really fast and comes without flaps.

See my example configuration below fwiw. Should work the same way on pixawk. This is on ardupilot 3.x something

I connected apm 2.5.2 outputs as follows:

1 = 0
2 = elevator servo
3 = ESC throttle
4 = rudder servo
5 = port servo
6 = starboard servo
7 = 0
8 = 0

Inputs as mapped in 9xr transmitter:

1 = AIL
2 = ELE
3 = THR
4 = RUD
5 = 0
6 = 0
7 = ID2 (full switch)
8 = P3


RC5_FUNCTION=24 ("Flaperon1")
RC6_FUNCTION=25 ("Flaperon2")

FLAP_IN_CHANNEL=7 (where the ID2 switch is on the tx)


With this exact configuration

*aileron stick on the tx controls the starboard and port servo as expected for the aileron input.

*In stabilize and auto modes, starboard and port servo move as expected for ailerons.

*When ID2 is switched on the TX, both port and starboard control surfaces move up evenly and smoothly.

*Now moving the aileron stick controls both servos in the same aileron fashion as before, just with the zero position moved upwards on both sides, as expected.

*Also true for autopilot control in stabilize and auto modes.

Now I connected pan / tilt to the free ouput pins 7 and 8, and set up the free channels 5 and 6 on the transmitter to my pan tilt pots.


RC7_FUNCTION=6 ("mount_pan")
RC8_FUNCTION=7 ("mount_tilt")
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Feb 25, 2015 @ 05:46 AM | 5,728 Views
Used a cat5 type cable and sub-d connectors to hook up servos and other electronics inside wings with the fuselage.

Ckick 'view all images in thread'

This is based on CAT5E SF/UT with four twisted pairs of AWG26 copper wire, foil shielding, braid and an outer plastic coat. I bought this exact cable DRAKA UC300 HIGH SCREEN 26

[/URL]Plastic coat was removed to save some weight. This can be achieved by setting an exacto knife to the shortest length and carefully cut along the length of the cable. Then twist the coat to make it come apart.

4 sections of cable were made for wing and fuselage portions of the connection.

For the joints, asw24 ends and subd terminals were pre tinned and connected. For ground connection, the braid was twisted and soldered to one pin and connected with the subd housing on both ends.

The soldered joints were then filled with epoxy for strain relieve and protection and were then covered with tinfoil such that braid and connector were covered, with the aim to have a continuous connection between wings and fuselage portion of the cable.

Here, the fuselage sections was stripped entirely of all shielding and for ground line, an extra wire was deployed. But it might be better to keep a part of the original material.

To hold the braid/cable together and to allow good connection between foil and braid shielding as well as tin foil on the joints, discontinuous sections of shrink tubing was used.

Fuselage and wing roots were widened to allow subd to...Continue Reading
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Aug 08, 2014 @ 10:28 PM | 6,212 Views
Working on a new sailplane, the ASW28 from FlyFly Hobby.
Build details here
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Jun 24, 2014 @ 12:25 PM | 5,566 Views
Orange juice plastic bottle cut and half and spray painted with resin color to match easy glider pro fuse.
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | May 29, 2014 @ 05:51 PM | 7,138 Views
1120 MHz biquad - thanks to ibcrazy for the inspirational diy instructions thread and feedback
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | May 27, 2014 @ 05:13 PM | 5,896 Views
Received an Eagle Tree V3 pitot tube from Ready Made RC in the mail today.
The tube is super light, my off scale scale says 2g.
Shipping was super fast with just 1 week from U.S. to EU at a fair rate.

I recommend both, the shop and the tube.

Now I need to decide where to mount the device on my pusher easy glider - either in the nose, which would allow for plug free wiring or on top off a wing where it would be more crash proof.
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Dec 10, 2013 @ 08:51 PM | 7,244 Views
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Oct 30, 2013 @ 05:13 PM | 6,220 Views
First time on the field today with the RangeLink. Also maiden for the easy glider pro pusher layout after some modifications. In the rural open just before sunset. See pictured setup.

The RangeLink in Micro Power Mode does at least 30 m (100 ft) LOS until significant frame (LED blinking) loss.

In Low Power mode with the TX on the ground and me on my bike with the fuselage in hand I could go a mile non LOS without any sign of signal (LED blinking) loss.

It went quite well. With 2x 110g 11V pack in the very nose (1 needed for FPV gear and the other to simulate FPV gear weight) and the 4Ah flight battery moved a bit forward, the plane is balanced. Holding it with fingers under the wings at the COG indicators it noses down.
That way, with the motor off and without trimming, it will glide smooth and level.
Starting and subsequently landing I tried to gain trust. All seems very reliable. One thing to improve: The thrust angle is a bit too extreme: The plane climbs too much on throttle. For FPV I am seeking a very stable and smooth control so I will tilt the motor down by a few degrees and retry.

The equipment was transported to the field inside the fashionable glider bag from IKEA (4 USD)

I am now waiting for my mobius cam to arrive. This is a camera that can record and output 720p video at 60fps, costs only 60 USD and thus replaces my good old Aiptek.


Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Oct 22, 2013 @ 03:43 AM | 6,756 Views
1,2 GHz TX bought from best offer buy along with 12 CH "digital" RX.
With the pictured heatsink mod, it did not puff so far in up to 30 min ground tests.

Information: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1884589
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Oct 22, 2013 @ 03:23 AM | 6,705 Views
Dug out this old electret mic board, which I think was sold as cctv product. To be used with a 1,2 GHz TX which runs on 12 V so it would be nice if it would take that voltage.
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Oct 20, 2013 @ 11:28 AM | 7,182 Views
What's that smell? Turnigy MG90S Metal Gear Servo burned for no obvious reason...
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Mar 29, 2013 @ 08:14 AM | 7,312 Views
Happy Easter to those celebrating and to everybody else I wish some nice and hopefully work free days!

Testing Rangelink
Fig 1 and 2 show how I configured Rangelink for initial testing. Stock tx and rx antennas are used in a ground test in a presumably RF noisy residental area. With the tx in a top floor appartment and rx at only 10 cm height, at a tx power of 500 mW or 200 mW it was possible to walk 1km without any failsave and sporadic failsave respectively behind buildings, trees, etc.I figured that this would be particularly interesting for people flying copters at a very low level. And more interestingly to me it seems like there is quite some range potential for fixed wing LOS flying in the open.

Rangelink RX -> Easy Glider Pro
I then continued to install the Rangelink rx in the plane. With FPV and other electronics including a 500 mW 2,4 GHz video transmitter located in the front of the Easy Glider fuselage, the Rangelink rx antenna was mounted to the vertical stabilizer. The coax on the shipped 1/4 wave dipole antenna is too short, so a new antenna was created: rg58 cable was cut and fit with a male SMA connector to suit the female SMA on the rx located inside the fuselage under the wings (fig. 3). From there the coax runs over the fuse to the vertical stabilizer and ends in the 1/4 wave active dipole element, consisting of the dismanteled rg58 core on the one the side facing upwards and of course on the other side the rg58 shielding was soldered to slug and...Continue Reading
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Mar 28, 2013 @ 07:46 AM | 13,502 Views
As very well characterized by the below video, some units of the Turnigy 9XR radio ship with a mechanical problem.

Turnigy 9xr elevator gimbal problem (1 min 39 sec)

As you can see the vertical movement of the right joystick is faulty. It does not center and lags behind. Strikingly the faulty axis movement as seen on the display is representing the exact servo movement, which obviously renders the radio useless. I would not recommend to try and control any model with this.
In another thread rcgroups users described how they addressed the problem on their own. My 9XR was affected as well and I used the described method to fix it and took pictures in the process:
  • Step 1: Unplug and remove the radio battery.
  • Step 2: The 9XR ships in two foam halves. Seat the radio in the top half (fig. 2) during the repair. This prevents stress on the sticks and switches.
  • Step 3: Remove all screws and position them on your table so that you remember their location. (fig. 1)
  • Step 4: Lift up the backcover and find the faulty spot as indicated by the red arrow in fig. 2. Not a visible movement of the green PCB with the pot is causing the problem, but merely a lack of contact.
  • Step 5: Cut and insert something between the pot pcb and the transmitter housing so that mild pressure is applied (fig. 4)
  • Step 6: If you feel save about it reconnect the battery now and test the gimbal function. Else put the backcover first.
  • Step 7: If your fix works, apply two drops of CA in order to secure the just inserted bit between the radio housing and the pcb.
  • Step 8: Reassemble the radio. See fig. 1 for screw configuration.

I hope this helps.
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Mar 26, 2013 @ 06:04 PM | 12,255 Views
I received a lot of new stuff including a Turnigy 9XR R/C radio and a rangelink long range system (LRS). The creation of a cable was needed to connect the two:
The 9XR pinout on the module port matches standard JR configuration. Top to bottom: PPM signal, +6V, +BATtery, GrouND, ANTenna (fig. 1).
The Rangelink transmitter must be provided with PPM, BAT and GND. The three pins are not in direct vicinity on the 9Xr end due to the JR configuration. So a servo connector with 3 terminals cannot be used. Since no spare 4 pin connector was available, a novel connector was created from two pre-wired JST plugs (default plug type on some low discharge battery packs). Removing one of the pins and its wires so that the +6V pin on the 9XR module port remained unused resulted in the needed configuration: PPM, none, +BAT, GND. The plugs were trimmed to match and glued together with CA. The wire terminals were soldered to the according wires on the Rangelink R/C transmitter connector providing a plug and play cable (fig 2).
The adapter with JST plug fits well on the rather long 9XR module pins, protecting them from shorts and avoiding unintential removal. The Rangelink transmitter was taped to the 9XR and the module slot was protected using fiber tape (fig 3 and 4).
Posted by Jack_LaLanne | Mar 19, 2013 @ 07:14 PM | 6,630 Views
drafting stuff to paint or glue to the wings. thanks to KC for providing the various rcgroups logos banners