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Posted by Oblivion | Nov 19, 2009 @ 03:18 AM | 6,983 Views
i have a lot of 2200 3cell lipo's which fit in all my planes but the art tech pitts special required a 1500 pack.

after some checking i found a way to fit a 2200 lipo into the pitt's, and still retain a good CoG.

you need to open up the very front section of the rear batt box. right behind the landing gear.
the batt then slides vertical, ala "hobbyzone super cub lipo mod" and its situated only just in front of the CoG.
with the extra weight of the larger pack it does seem to be the perfect location for it.

once you have cut enough room for the lipo to slide in vertical you need to move your ESC to the firewall in the front battery box to help recover a little bit of forward Cog.
once i get 3x short servo extensions the Rx will also join it in the front battery box to allow more room for the battery's plugs and cables in the rear box
also try route the wires along the side so the battery does not snag or rest on them when its inserted as it may prevent the batt from fitting all the way in.

See pics below.
Posted by Oblivion | Oct 01, 2009 @ 05:13 AM | 5,391 Views
heres a template to make your own wing spars for the parkzone corsair.
Then you can make an improved spar and have it perfected and ready to go before you remove your existing plastic spar.

all pages are A4 size. print without scaling and you will have a 100% scale copy of the corsair's spar.

EDIT: old link removed. please use the PDF's below, posted by wolfcub.
Posted by Oblivion | Sep 03, 2009 @ 12:17 PM | 4,778 Views
some pics for use around the forum. no real importance
Posted by Oblivion | Jun 07, 2009 @ 02:22 AM | 5,540 Views
copied from my post in the super cub thread



im looking at the kodak easy share c1013
10mp, and about 80usd/109aussie.

im thinking about bending a bit of left over lexan flashing off my RC truck body in a U shape to fit over the top of the fuse and under the wing, and mount the cam with a kind of sling mount setup on one end.

this way it can easily be swapped left to right if needed, and the wing helps secure the lexan mount

maybe a lacky band or six for a bit of additional securing.

this is what i had in mind, its almost finished.

i cant do the final bend around the face of the camera and cut out a hole for the lense because well, i dont have the camera yet

i need to glue + screw the sling/strip to the camera hanger
trim off excess on other side of plane. then i'll probably cut that end in a way that i can hook rubber bands onto it and stretch under the belly and over to the camera side.

camera weight will be carried by the sling
camera will be held firm to the fuse with lack bands running side to side under her belly
maybe a few lacky bands around the cam/fuse somehow for good measure "ala rtr" setup.

...Continue Reading
Posted by Oblivion | Mar 19, 2009 @ 12:58 AM | 5,367 Views
thought i'd post this here as i havent seen this idea before.

on the NEcub flyer videos (youtube) he uses the wire tip of a solder gun to cut his foam and after a bit of thinking i got a great idea.

i got a bit of thin wire as its easy to work with and requires less heat, and put a curve in the end then heat it with a cigarette lighter and it works like a champ at cutting foam cleanly.

just a few tips:

1) bend the wire a tiny bit narrower than your desired groove to be cut as its better to come back for a 2nd pass and open it further rather than have it too wide as you cant replace the foam once its cut out.

2) i used a paint texta to mark the required depth on my wire. again, better to be conservative than go overboard

3) dont get it too hot (ie dont get it near glowing hot) or the heat radiating from it will cause the foam to melt out wider than the wire without you even touching it

4) rest your hand lightly on the wing or fuse to steady your movements as you go.

5) if you need to apply a bit more pressure to get it to cut then the wire's gone cold and your best stopping and re-heating.

the rod was a nice tight fit into the channel.

it'll take maybe 10min to do a channel like this for my 4mm carbon fibre tube.
ive now filled over the top with white "neutral cure" silicone and then used a business card to smooth it over and remove excess so the wing has a perfectly smooth surface again.

i also used the heated wire trick to add ice cream sticks to the battery box area for support, and will do my ailerons this way also.
Posted by Oblivion | Jan 09, 2009 @ 12:21 AM | 5,564 Views
when i weigh things on the digital scales at work ill add them here for reference.

super cub:

stock landing gear wire complete with 2 tyres 16g
Stock front tyre. (tyre only) 2g
Nosram Vtec 5cell nimh 1400 pack (for BEC) 110g
stock gearbox with motor g

Eflite 920kv brushless motor (corsair) g
Posted by Oblivion | Jan 04, 2009 @ 03:31 AM | 6,299 Views
installing a spektrum receiver and seperate ESC is quite an easy install so i wont go into details on the hookup, but heres a few tips on how i mounted mine and fitted a lipo but can still use the stock nimh packs too.

With this mod i can use a stock nimh in the standard location via velcro straps, OR fit a 2200mah 3cell lipo upright in the front of the plane, also using the stock velcro straps as emergency battery supports incase the battery door comes open for some reason.
i simply loop the velcro between the positive + and negative - wires on the battery and link the straps together.
if my batt door opened the battery could only move maybe 1/2" , which is nowhere near enough for it to drop free of the plane and cause problems.

i removed the stock battery box/rx mount from the plane and cut away the front section up to the start of the velcro strap. (see attached images)
this rectangle gave me enough room to fit my lipo upright yet still retained enough of the stock battery box/rx mount to allow a nimh pack to be fitted and also still mount my spectrum receiver in the standard location.
i also cut off the forward 2x receiver lock arms that usually hold the stock Rx in place.

with the hole in the rx/batt box i then got a scrap bit of lexan from one of my RC car bodies, i guess a bit of a flat plastic drink bottle of some sort or a thin bit of balsa would work great too.

i cut the lexan to fit in what was left of the radio/batt box. basically it sits on...Continue Reading
Posted by Oblivion | Jan 04, 2009 @ 03:12 AM | 5,802 Views
once i changed out the stock receiver and remove the ACT sensors i found the sensor hole in the front window improves airflow into the electronics bay.

i opened this ACT sensor hole up very slightly to allow improved air intake.

then a few days later i had the cowl off the motor, and everyone knows theres a little air ram moulded into the bottom of the cub's cowl.

right behind that is where the motor wires go into a hole so they can enter the electronics bay of the plane.

At this point the firewall of the plane has a nice long oval shaped opening but the wire hole only uses a very small portion of this firewall oval.
(see picture below, the opening has been marked with a black texta for easy viewing)

using a knife and some patience i opened up the wire hole so it is now the size of the oval shaped opening in the firewall, and also opened the hole up right the way through the plane and into the electronics bay.
the opening inside the plane is about 3-4x larger than the stock hole for the wires, improving air intake past those wires and into the elec bay.

the end result is an oval shaped opening in the firewall that tapers back into a large hole inside the plane, and its directly inline with the air ram on the cowl so it should get force fed a fair bit of air.

the firewall was not modified at all. it just uses more of the opening near the wires.

cheers, Bliv
Posted by Oblivion | Jan 04, 2009 @ 03:05 AM | 5,794 Views
Paint Scheme + printed Decals

for the green and yellow design i had searched google for images of super cubs and found the paint scheme i wanted to use, except i chose a brighter green.

i saved the image to my desktop and used paint to expand the image until i could hold my cub up to the monitor and see the image was of very similar size.

i then sticky taped a bit of A4 paper to my monitor and traced around the scheme. once done i removed from monitor, flipped the page and followed the traced lines on the reverse side so i had a flipped image.
one for the left and one for the right hand side of the plane, both identical.

i then used the 'tracing paper' (regular A4) onto the side of my cub with a pen and painted it by hobby paint brush's.
i had also taken the original black window decals and stuck them on a flat bit of paper. traced them and painted them onto the plane by hand also.

for the boxing kangaroo i found an image i liked and then printed it in black and white as a test.
then adjusted the image size until it printed in the size decal i wanted, and set the printer to high quality print mode and again used regular A4 paper to print the image.

once dried, i used XXX-main lexan picture glue on the back of the image and also on the wing area, then stuck it to the wing + a smaller version to rudder. you can also use parma fas-koat, or probably even wood glue or eurethane to stick it the printed image to the plane.

tip: because its printer ink on...Continue Reading
Posted by Oblivion | Jan 04, 2009 @ 12:19 AM | 5,746 Views
Howdy all,
my name is Glenn and i'm from Adelaide, South Australia

ive been into RC's for about 7 years now and have finally ventured into the world of planes with the hobbyzone super cub and parkzone F4U corsair

My current list of toys are:

Traxxas Nitro 4Tec Pro - touring car
Traxxas Jato - 2 wheel drive nitro stadium truck
Traxxas Tmaxx - with big block conversion + extended chassis
Traxxas Revo 3.3 - with a big block conversion
Venom Night Ranger II helicopter.
Venom micro rescue (the cheap little tiny indoor ones)
FMH Hobby Tiger Shark - nitro boat

i then got a parkzone corsair and decided i should learn to fly a trainer first so i got the Super Cub.

i got my hobbyzone super cub in about november and have found it to be an awesome plane for the very low price.
extremely durable, very easy to learn to fly. doesnt need a large area and is very forgiving in flight.

After a few flights i started to get the hang of the cub so i decided to push myself a little by doing a mod to it now and then and all were simple and very effective thanks to the wide range of knowledge on the "ultimate super cub" thread here in RC groups.

some of the things ive done are:

custom paint scheme with printed image of a boxing kangaroo glued on the wing + rudder.
for the main colour scheme i used parma fas-paints and coated the whole plane with water based eurethane. (thanks to Raz for the tips with using eurethane as a cover coat)

3s 2200mah Lipo mod
DX6i radio + Schulz 20a brushed ESC
aileron mod
air intake mod (help keep the electronics cool by improving airflow)

and im going to flatten the wing once i get to my LHS and buy some rod to reinforce the wing with.

this is my first ever blog, so go easy mate

cheers, Glenn (aka Obliv)