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Posted by Low Pass | Apr 18, 2010 @ 09:09 PM | 6,786 Views
As a quick build in between other projects I decided to make this Vulcan using plans from Kepa. But the original size was too big for me (and my car) so I scaled it down to 80% and did some other modifications. The main reason for this plane to try my new key chain camera I bought on ebay and I needed a pusher plane with a lot of wing area to fly very slow but fast enough to follow an EDF.
Kepa's build thread is here:https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1141491
Now that I had my first flights I really like it and fly it even without the camera. It is hard to throw and I wish I had retracts on it. But it is fine as is...
Here is not a video of the plane but from the key chain camera instead:
The flight of the Vulcan.wmv (5 min 26 sec)

Posted by Low Pass | Mar 24, 2010 @ 12:41 AM | 6,244 Views
The Tony is a nice streamlined Japanese WWII fighter and is often seen in its typical camouflage paint scheme. Before I started this project I had to decide between Mig-3 and Ki-61. But another Mig is already in the queue, so I chose the Tony and I'm happy with it.
With this scheme and the flashy red and white it looks really beautiful up in the sky. I like to fly by in a low pass, just to watch the colors and the slim lines of her. And since she is very light you can then chase her around in very tight turns.

The plans and the whole build thread can be found here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1136790

Scratch built Kawasaki Ki-61 Hien "Toni", wingspan 900mm/35" (3 min 5 sec)

Posted by Low Pass | Mar 18, 2010 @ 09:56 PM | 6,772 Views
After the loss of my Hyperion Cap 232 I had to put a new balsa plane on my wish list and I thought of Hyperion again, but this time to the Helios. One nice day some good friends surprised me with a big birthday gift and now it is my favorite plane. I switch between all the other planes, but the Helios is always with me when I go out to the field. I can do everything with her a jet or WWII fighter would not be able to do. I'm not a 3D pilot and this plane can do enough 3D for me. If you go full throttle in knife edge, it makes a knife edge loop out of it.
I use the same motor as in the CAP: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=5690 together with a 9x6 prop and a 100g 1300mAh battery, which gives me about 8 minutes of flight.
There is only one big complain I had with my CAP and now again with the Helios: The landing gear comes off easily if you don't do anything. When I took out my Helios the very first time, I made a taxi test and lost suddenly the wheels, they came out with some thin plywood that held the screws alone (see below). Some epoxy and longer and thicker screws helped. Later I epoxied the whole damn thing including the screws into it, so it can never be removed anymore (at least I hope that). Now it already survived even rougher landings and just enjoy the flying part.
Posted by Low Pass | Oct 25, 2009 @ 01:15 AM | 6,984 Views
I actually built the Su-37 before my L-39, but I ran into few problems before I could enjoy the first successful flight months later.
The Su-37 is made after plans by Jetset44, but of course I had to do my own thing: Adding retracts. This caused some changes in the design. Not only the retracts had to be incorporated somewhere, but also the suggested 6x4 props would be too big. Smaller props require higher RPMs, higher KV motors.
I did not want to get into that vicious cycle of adding weight, needing more power what adds weight again etc. So I tried some light heli motors first (43g: http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=5245) together with the Suppo/Supersimple 40 ESCs (now marked as 35/40) http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idProduct=6461
But since I used blue core (had a lot laying around) I had to put in more reinforcements into the wings and fuselage. In the end the plane really got too heavy for these motors and they got overloaded. I also have to warn everyone to use the Suppo 40 ESCs for EDFs or other high KV motors. I have logged flights with my EF-16, where they cut off at 25A and were totally hot. You can use 30s or 50s but not the 40s. So after the first unsuccessful flights I decided to change the motors and the ESCs. In addition I first had simply screws with nuts countered against each other as axles for the TV motor mounts. But on one flight one came lose and the motor got stuck in up position, where I had to abort the flight and put it into...Continue Reading
Posted by Low Pass | Oct 06, 2009 @ 10:16 PM | 7,878 Views
As I upgraded my EF-16 (see below) I had the original 55mm EDF laying around and I looked for a plane I can build around it. So I started to make plans and built it out of blue core.
You can find all the details here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1073657
And here is a movie:
L-39 Albatros scratch built foamie, RC model plane, 55mm EDF, blue core/depron (3 min 37 sec)

Now, 3 months after the built I still enjoy flying her like on the first day. But I gave up on making the rudder work. There was only this one position for the servo and it the worst for the rudder. So I removed the servo and glued the rudder surface. It flies fine without rudder, no knife edge though.
Posted by Low Pass | Oct 02, 2009 @ 12:41 AM | 7,453 Views
This is a really nice jet and again it is fine just as it comes from the shop, but... As I said below, I cannot leave it as it is...
It happened, that our rough landing strip took the toll on the front wheel. It became lose and I decided to put a retract in. I decided for the Robart 124. They are sturdier than the GWS ones, but have a weak point too. See below.

The main landing gear is not so obvious in flight and the front gear disappears. Here is a video:
Exceed RC F-18C with front retract (3 min 32 sec)

Later I also added rudder, but I'm not satisfied yet. I cut the rudders along the markings and that is way to big. They act like ailerons and you can make rolls with it I wil cut them again to 2/3 length or so....Continue Reading
Posted by Low Pass | Oct 01, 2009 @ 11:23 PM | 6,784 Views
As my first EDF plane I got the EF-16. In my favourite local hobby shop AeroMicro I was advised that this was the most popular EDF plane they sold. And I have to say it is really a nice flyer, even just plain stock. There was only one problem, I'm a terrible thrower and it happened that before I was able to correct it, the nose got wrinkled on the ground . My other problem is: I cannot just leave a plane as it is
So I decided after flying it for a long time just stock, to put retracts on it and take off from the street like my other planes. Of course the bigger weight had to be compensated with more thrust and so I got myself a 64mm EDF (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=4238) and a stronger motor (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...idproduct=6387) and it is now the fastest plane in my fleet.
Here is a video:
Phase 3 EF-16 upgraded with 64mm EDF, retracts and rudder (4 min 26 sec)

I just realized I have to make shorter comments, again some parts are cut off below: #2: "The wire is guided and contains a loop to be flexible" and #4 "I hat to dremmel the foam pretty thin and poured in a thin layer of epoxy for stabilization"
Posted by Low Pass | Oct 01, 2009 @ 09:53 PM | 6,361 Views
Originally I got an UltraFly P-51 with flaps and retracts for a long passed birthday. It took me some time to build it up and on my maiden flight it was first all ok (of course scary like every maiden), but I handled it. I got it higher and tried a first loop. But it flipped over and went into a dive. I tried to pull it up and it flipped over again etc until it bursted into thousend pieces on the street. Three months later the next maiden and it happened again. After recalculating the CG it urned out it should have been almost an inch backwards. The plane was beyond repair, so I started to make a copy out of cell foam and reused the canopy, compressor intake, exhaust lines and decals. This one looks pretty much the same as the old one, but really fllies with the right CG.
Unfortunately I didn't make a plan and took only this pictures of the built.
By the way, the tail wheel is connected to the rudder servo what was not intended in the original plane. But it is more scale. Because of the shorter distance to the main wheels, the take off is a bit tricky, but can be managed.

Scratch build P-51 Mustang made from cell foam with retracts and flaps (3 min 27 sec)

Under the snapshot image below some words got cut off. I wrote this:
Despite the fact that cell foam is very brittle, this wing turned out very stable. It doesn't bend and can withstand some hits.
Posted by Low Pass | Sep 27, 2009 @ 12:26 AM | 6,849 Views
Hyperion Cap 232, balsa, aerobatic, (3D): I wonderful plane, I loved it. It was always going where you pointed it. It could do all kinds of maneuvers, just a great plane. Unfortunately I got to comfortable with it and it became a victim of one of my dare-devil-actions. How long can you do a flat spin down from the clouds and how few feet from the ground can you save it...?
Well, I did it for some time until once one of those plane-catching plants we have here, stretched out and held on to the wing tip, so it couldn't get up anymore Now it rests in peace and I definitely have to get another balsa plane, very likely a Hyperion again.
Posted by Low Pass | Sep 26, 2009 @ 11:58 PM | 6,563 Views
Lets start with my GWS Zero: I bought the white foam glider version for about $25, just for learning taking off and landing on the road.
This combo is a great power plant for the Zero. Mostly I flew with an 8x6 prop 2 blades later. Since I took my Parkzone FW190 out of service, the pilot found a new home here.
Over the time I added flaps and changed the angle of the H-stab, since the trimming was very speed dependend and the Zero ballooned up with full throttle. Getting the H-stab parallel to the main wing fixed this.