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Posted by scruffy1 | Dec 03, 2017 @ 01:26 AM | 1,625 Views
i'll hopefully post a bit about beginner's fpv stuff soon-ish, but as an interim taste, here's a few pics of my bespoke light weight micro-fpv camera mount for the bonsai - only half a decade after the early adopters suggested the possibility in my build log in this very blog back here

the initial trial with a similar tiny camera simply bunged on the nose with cable tie worked passably, but the nose obscured the view somewhat

raising the camera, and moving it forward takes full advantage of the 120º vertical field of view made a lot of improvement

full details of the "build" are over at the fpv threads here
Posted by scruffy1 | Sep 03, 2017 @ 03:35 AM | 1,922 Views
this is just a convenient reference in my blog to direct you to the more extensive review in the appropriate thread over at multirotor drones

i'd like to thank nigelsheffield for encouraging me to try out this mode of flight, because prior to actually having a go at it, i wasn't at all fond of quadcopters

on reflection, i had the same low opinion of dogs until i was obliged to live with one, and now she's my favourite pet; she likes my discus launch gliders more than this thing though

here's me fanging it (thanks to my son for the video, and also for demanding i buy the quad for his birthday... maybe at some stage he'll want to try it himself )

Eachine H8S-3D Fun!!! (3 min 25 sec)

Posted by scruffy1 | Aug 23, 2017 @ 10:51 PM | 2,551 Views
i have just received the above device for assessment, and there is a more comprehensive review (and more to come as i have a chance to test it out) over here:

in essence, this is a full range 8 channel receiver with an integrated high sensitivity variometer, specifically designed with glider pilots in mind

it's the perfect small package for f3k and their powered ilk, and small enough that it will fit in mosquito sized craft as well
Posted by scruffy1 | Aug 18, 2017 @ 06:49 AM | 2,487 Views
pretty much a blu-baby clone, and all credit to Tony65x55 for a great design which i have largely followed in proportions and layout

my spin on it is slightly larger (just shy of 37") and will use 2s for primary training,and probably 3s for the intermediate mode with ailerons and very likely a kline-fogleman airfoil - those things are fascinating and completely out of kilter with traditional aerodynamic profiles... and very easy to build compared to traditional streamlines ... i really feel the urge to try one

mine is also way more complicated than the original, because.... i can't help myself

anyway, this entry is just to announce the build, and direct anyone who is intrigued to check out the more protracted descriptions of the project, and a selection of photos of the process

hope you like it; there's a few pics below to get you clicking on this link
Posted by scruffy1 | Aug 17, 2017 @ 11:59 PM | 2,408 Views
everyone has their own ideas; do what you like, but here's what works for me

while i appreciate that local vendors may well offer advantages in terms of quality control and after sales service, you need to realise that they are selling the same stock as everyone else (unless you get burnt by cheap pirated knock-offs), but adequate research on the forums and using your google-fu will help you find significant bargains

please note that whilst i sometimes link "affiliate items" that garner me some small rewards for referral, that doesn't alter the price versus buying from a direct link, and i am very open about the process - in fact, i am often too lazy to modify the link to my benefit

in any case, my reviews and comments on stuff are without fear or favour - i have nothing to lose by telling it like it is, because if i think something is a steaming crock i won't be directing you to buy it anyway, and if it's good, i'm pleased to be able to enlighten you

when you buy local, the added cost is like buying extended warranty - you pay for it, you might benefit from it, but in effect you are buying something you hope to not need - it's a bit like disability insurance... which i admit i'm glad i have, because all the spare time i have to write on this forum is being sponsored by mine ... but my life is more valuable than toys, so i take a calculated risk on toys that i don't with my health
yes, that's what we play with, and i am happy to call it for what it is

in...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | Aug 01, 2017 @ 03:05 AM | 2,672 Views
the depron frenzy continues

inspired by the flydreams "bird type power unit" i set to it, and the result is documented over here

teaser shots below
Posted by scruffy1 | Jul 28, 2017 @ 04:29 AM | 2,669 Views
i'm in the midst of making a 24" (600mm) rudder / elevator, low wing. light weight depron plane

figured it belonged over in the foamies scratchbuilt, but posted here are a few teasers - further write up can be seen at the link :

depron is pretty fast and fun to build with, despite never having used it before - the foam-cure glue is interesting - still not fond of all the cobwebs it makes, but my technique is improving rapidly
Posted by scruffy1 | Jul 03, 2017 @ 03:15 AM | 3,680 Views
the mini lipo voltage sensor for frsky is small and useful, but unlike its larger sibling with onboard readout, it has no inbuilt polarity protection

that's the price you pay for having a unit weigh 2.8gm versus the bigger version at 5.2gm - for some the extra heft is negligible, but for smaller planes that's ballast you don't want - if i want to read cell voltages on the ground i have a lipo cell checker

anyhow, there was discussion in the taranis "how to" thread about the whole idea, which included this advice from aloft hobbies about it

Warning - The MLVS has no polarity protection! Great care should be used to make sure you ALWAYS plug in the battery correctly. If a battery is plugged in backwards, it can fry everything connected to the receiver, and the receiver too. We strongly advise to use the slightly larger SP-FLVS instead, it features polarity protection.

i discovered a balance connector at hobbyking that could act as a donor, but other leads up to 6 cells can be found at other suppliers with some google-fu

alternatively, crimp on a standard servo plug, double check the polarities and leave the flylead attached to make it easier to use in a plane
Posted by scruffy1 | Jun 19, 2017 @ 05:52 AM | 4,588 Views
recently, for the first time ever i got my hands on a decent quantity of depron, and decided it was time to give it a go

inspired by the micro r/c kits from banggood, and reminiscing on the free flight nieuport 11 (bébé) sesquiplane model i built for a friend last century, i was taken by the colour of the grey depron being plenty silver enough to make a great choice for the nieuport

the general gist of it was initially discussed over here in a thread in the scratchbuilt indoor and micro part of the forum, where the plans and a full size baby are on view

there's some posts on my initial trials with heat gun, rolling, hot water and rudimentary oven based mould, but it was all pretty so-so, and i decided to go big and make a bespoke mould from wood with aluminium plates, sorta the depron version of a foccacia press

i give direct thanks to dan schwartz who generously sent me a copy of his original plan, which i borrowed from (amongst other sources) to make up my own version - the one i concocted was modified by necessity due to the available oven space

a quick trip to the local bunnings hardware procured the necessary stock for my take on it :
  • 400x140mm marine ply base ($2 from the offcut bin for a bigger piece trimmed for free, with enough left over for a perfect sized base for a building board)
  • 2.7metres of 11x11mm pine strip
  • 10 metres of 15cm wide 0.3mm "weatherflash" aluminium flashing
  • 5/32" x 36mm bolts with matching sets of washers and wingnuts
  • (i
...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | May 24, 2017 @ 11:21 PM | 4,587 Views
i recently bought the described product from banggood - minimum rc spacewalker; make me immeasurably richer using the affiliate link provided - immeasurably as in very small reward, but hey! i'll take what i can get

it included a motor, but not the one they showed with the kit

product specs from my measurements are :
  • motor core 16.61mm long, 21.10 overall to end of shaft
  • 7mm core diameter with 1.0mm shaft; prop hub has correct bore for the supplied shaft
  • the propeller is markedly asymmetrical (see the pics) and there are neither mounting lugs nor screws, despite the illustrated product showing both
  • overall weight 4.1gms for components, propeller is 1.2gm but will be less with required trimming and balancing, no doubt

the mounting "hole" on the (presumably) nylon hub is 2x2mm suggesting this hub is for probably a component for one of the carbon stick fuselage models; the "front" hole forward of the 2x2 fitting is 1.35mm diameter, and might lend itself to mounting in a 1.5mm carbon rod with a little "encouragement" - see pics

the tiny motor turns over nicely unloaded on a 3.7v 1s lipo

however, due to not being what i saw in the product pics, the proposed use in either a sopwith pup or minimum rc spacewalker is not going to be possible without substantial modification

all in all not a bad product, but the buying experience was somewhat spoiled by inaccurate product details - but for ~ $4 delivered as part of the job lot, i can't get too disappointed even if i can't use it as planned
Posted by scruffy1 | May 15, 2017 @ 08:43 PM | 5,290 Views
banggood has recently been selling a selection of plug in modules for transmitters that enable them to utilise other protocols than the host transmitter, although up until recently they have been limited in their variety of compatibilities

although it was possible to flash them for other protocols, this required some degree of nerd capability, the latest iteration iRangeX IRX4 utilising stm32 firmware does a whole lot of protocols that are enabled via the transmitter interface on Taranis as long as the transmitter is updated to the 2.2 firmware

for those users relatively new to taranis, this may be less painful than if you have a whole lot of stuff already programmed using 2.1, although in my limited applications prior, the model i wanted to move across did so painlessly

there's a thread to help over here , where i wrote :
things i would note for other potential owners :
  • if you want to do any internal soldering, do it before you put the module in the slot - that sucker is in there for good without some specialised removal tools
  • this video for firmware upgrading is essentially correct, but there are a few minor hiccups (like the downloaded file for the upgrade needing to be renamed with *.bin extension because windoze doesn't do that automagically), and simply loading it to the sd card as suggested didn't seem to work, whereas using companion (eventually) did
  • this page was helpful, but make sure you also check the "multimodule" box in the edit
...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | Jan 05, 2017 @ 07:50 PM | 5,424 Views
my success rate for powering up things with a jst connection first "try" has frustrated me since the beginning - i generally find that by the time my fingers obscure the leads when i try and plug them, it's a 50% chance i'll be holding them in the wrong orientation as i try and connect, and then have to juggle a small plane and the battery

i have started using a permanent marker on my jst connectors to mark the negative side obviously black

problem solved !
Posted by scruffy1 | Dec 31, 2016 @ 11:23 PM | 6,100 Views
read all about it over at the build log here, or for those already watching, skip to the final instalment here

teaser shots below - more at the links above
Posted by scruffy1 | Dec 22, 2016 @ 12:06 AM | 5,714 Views
almost there !

just a teaser to encourage some further viewing over at the build
Posted by scruffy1 | Oct 31, 2016 @ 04:58 AM | 5,803 Views
due to medical problems, i am not up for discus launch at the moment, and even looking at the sunshine burns me as if i have turned vampire

so perhaps appropriately for the horror theme, it was time for a frankenplane

more about it as the build proceeds over here

oh, and it's halloween...

i already had the idea to take my 1.7m antares 'foiled thermal wing, and graft it to a tepid-liner electric fuselage... not as decidedly frosty as my canary

building the fuselage was a tiresome consideration, and balancing the components would require some careful consideration and planning, which i was lacking inspiration to do

then in a minor tidying shuffle, having dragged out as yet unattended boxes containing some of the many kits i have accumulated, i rediscovered the partially built sig riser which i had been bequeathed from a deceased estate via a circuitous association

the fuselage "box" was already done, and the fin and rudder glued but not sanded; the wing stock was incomplete, and the stabiliser lost to me

more problematically, the plans were awol, even though i could find a low res copy on line, and the proportions were too big for the wing i had to play with

so... utilising what i had, i fudged an appropriate horizontal tail, and trimmed the rudder to lose a bit of superfluous area

kudos to curtis suter for his excellent spreadsheet at his tailwind gliders site which allowed me to crunch some numbers using the fixed moment arms and wing i had to work...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | Feb 10, 2016 @ 02:39 AM | 7,278 Views
hobby king had another sale (as you do), and the binary was up for just north of $110aud - outrageous !

so i bought another one, as a spare, because that's half price, and around $20 cheaper than when i bought the first one almost 4 years ago when the pacific peso was at parity with the greenback (ah, good times )

arrived today, and there's been some changes

the "new" wing has carbon "spars" skinned, rather than inset, and the foam is now yellow - not the original hot pink - and it seems otherwise similar density, although the carbon reinforcements are wider on the left wing - maybe to accommodate launch forces, or maybe just random, given it's not a "right handers only" machine

the pod has a reinforced floor anteriorly - good, because it saves me having to do so pre-emptively, and it's lighter too by a tad already reinforced

the tail is the same as far as i can tell, except that there is now a nod to some aerodynamic rounding of the edges where previously the surfaces were all flat plate

the boom is now très slick; still rolled carbon, but the skin is way smooth, and it's lighter too, with a pre-slotted fin groove

there's a wire for the pushrod to the elevator, and some tubing to route it through the boom i guess

the wing mounting hardware and glass cloth and stab mount seem unchanged, as does the launching peg rod

i am so, so, soooooo tempted to go light and make it up as a v1 with pull string rudder and elevator,...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | Jan 18, 2016 @ 02:02 AM | 8,117 Views
well, it had to happen i guess

several thousand successful flights, and then... this

my repairs to the fin last time it cracked at the boom join (yet again) included some fibreglass reinforcement to the fin underneath the film covering, and so instead of the fin yielding, i transferred the stresses to the slotted boom, which must have cracked (again)

one launch too many, and the fin detached; there was a fierce flick roll and then lawn dart!! - but luckily after a recent period of deluge, the grass was fairly long and spongy, and the soil was still soft

i'm amazed that the canopy remained uncracked, due to clever padding to stop the pod from digging into it on impact (took me two prior dead canopies to effectively recognise a solution), although the rear of the pod has detached from the boom - unsurprising as i never sanded the boom to key it

the rest of the fuselage barring the tail tip that came off with the fin is pretty much good to go even so

the rear hold down bolt was unable to release (the "keyhole" is burred), and i had to twist off the rear mount, after removing the flaperon servos and pushrods

all in all it was a pretty clean procedure

i have already bogged up the crush area with microballoons, after splitting the top skin to facilitate peeling it back to expose the damaged foam

the spar in broken, and i shall research the best way to reinforce it

ultimately i will use finish cure to the reattach the delaminated skins,...Continue Reading
Posted by scruffy1 | Dec 28, 2015 @ 09:36 PM | 8,598 Views
help is what i will need in getting up to speed with my new toy

the original taranis generously supplied by mark bolton over at BoltRC decided to get the horrors at binding to d8 receivers, and despite the best efforts by me and then his helpful tech types, it refused to co-operate

the time was ripe to upgrade to the taranis plus, and i spent my own $ on the exchange, so any positive (or less positive) things i have to say in this thread will be entirely without pecuniary interest, although i hasten to add that having been "loaned" the original model made me no less honest in my opinions... but it did get me a very cheap introduction to the potential of this radio

thanks mark !

so, if you are new to taranis (like me) or have had one for a while but never really got to fiddling with the system, you may not already be on the 2.0 (or later) firmware

lucky for you i already got that idea - you can marvel at my instructions here

companion Tx is great, but has its own peculiarities, and the next posts will address some common issues i have discovered, and tamed

please note i will be moderating this thread to try and keep it relatively concise as a resource for new users, and i shall use my web powers to summon the expertise of nigelsheffield, who obviously has a clue from my previous contact

so, there's an intro... the next few posts i shall secure for personal lists of stuff, and edit to try and keep it tight - feel free to add to the posts, or pm me if there's glaring error or dead links, and i'll try to fix things

enjoy !