taggrrr's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by taggrrr | Jun 14, 2008 @ 11:07 AM | 3,723 Views
A few shots of yesterday's progress... I've got a lot to learn about working with shrink covering.

I forgot to mention that in the original phase, i replaced the suggested 3.5 oz. noseweights with the flight power pack. Just four "eneloop" AA cells soldered up to a uni jack. 2000 mAh. Should be close for CG

Posted by taggrrr | Jun 01, 2008 @ 04:57 PM | 3,660 Views
I"ve started a new sloper for the bigger days here and just can't help changing a few... Well, lotsa things as the kit comes together. Our LZ's are so brutal

First, I reinforced the wingtips internally by cutting slots and epoxying in 1/8" ply pieces about 1/2" wide... And cut off the first 1/4" of the leading edge which was replaced with 1/4" polyethylene "icemaker" tubing. I then ran PU glue along both triangular gaps that were created between the tubing and foam and wrapped 2" strapping tape over the LE from tip to tip.

Secondly, I reduced the sub TE spars to around 1/4" square to save unneccesary weight as i,

Thirdly, Layered the entire wing and Fuse.in roofing tape bonded with 3M 90 and rolled out with PU glue.

Fourth, "should have been third" Replaced the suggested 3.5 Oz. noseweights with four NiMh AA size cells wired up to a uni jack.

Next, Several layers of thinned LW spackle with sandind in between. Once the surfaces are smooth enough, i'll paint the Fuselage thinned Goop then epoxy spray paint.

I think i'll cover the flight surfaces with Monocoat and skip the Goop...

Oh yeah ! I'm adding a rudder for added complexity and drag just because...

Posted by taggrrr | Apr 19, 2008 @ 05:21 PM | 4,365 Views
My friend Mark maidened his Cularis a few weeks ago and did the same thing that i did to mine...Short flight,Sudden stop, Broken nose...
I offered to put 'er back together as he was going off island for a while and i have a little experience with this particular repair.
I used 3M 4200 adhesive to re-attech the foam parts and PU/RT tacked on with 3M 77 to add needed support to the area.
Now i have to fair it out with thinned LW spackle and sand to shape for paint topcoat...
Posted by taggrrr | Mar 24, 2008 @ 11:45 PM | 5,219 Views
Finished the little bird yesterday. Easter !
Great kit, Very nicely mfg'd. Very detailed instr.

Decided to experiment with the graphics a little... For LOW weight and because i just wanted to, I airbrushed these wings with a mixture of "Food color and Denatured alcohol. Wow... Looked great till it dried. The canary yellow and crimson red faded in front of my eyes to tan and pink so i did it again with vinegar instead,,, Hello it's Easter right... Same results Oh well, i tried
Next try... Kool Aid ! thinned with R-alcohol for quick drying... Not bad
Veeery light. Fractions of a gram added, acceptable looks ! Fruit punch is pretty bright.
I also tried some chalkline chalk with water which stained everything i tested it on a lovely but boring brick red or slate blue. I've seen some flourescent chalks at the LHS "H" being for Hardware in this case Might be worth a try too !

Guess i'll try Acrylic water based pigments next time.

The elevator is sanded extremely thin and the covered with thinned GOOP, two coats. Light Strong and Flexy. Surprisingly tough !

Posted by taggrrr | Mar 13, 2008 @ 10:39 PM | 4,142 Views
Pull-Pull full flying T-Tail 4 Fling... Say that five times FASST
Posted by taggrrr | Feb 13, 2008 @ 01:49 AM | 5,442 Views
Hey there,
Check out this repair of a severed front end/ motor mount on a Multiplex Elapor Cularis 2.6 M E-Glider.
Started by re-attaching the nose piece with 3M 4200 marine adhesive/sealant. The fast cure one. It's white and veeeery gooey when applied but extremely effective. Just scraped off any excess sqeezing out of the area and set aside to cure for several hours.
After drying I sanded to shape with a rotrary flap disc, u know the one with a bunch of pieces of sandpaper on a round disc with a shaft for a dremel chuck.
Next using "ajroahkni's" style I "targetized " the entire front end in two overlapping layers of Henry's roofing repair tape, adhesed with P/U glue rolled on as thinly as possible.
A little light weight spackle to smooth things out once its dry, and it's time for a spiffy new paint job after some quick sanding.
This technique yielded an amazingly light and strong shell over the repaired foam in two hours of bench time. The shell feels not unlike a fiberglass cast without the weight or the "stink".* I think i'll have to go fly 'er real soon !