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Posted by 1000MPH | Jan 31, 2017 @ 07:55 PM | 1,481 Views
I picked up a DM8 Spektrum module for Futaba a few months ago and finally got an antenna and replacement antenna mount to fit it in my 9C.
I've got a few things to test out with it including my Gyro Bee and a Sunbird.
I couldn't find any pics on the web showing what this setup looked like and what exactly was needed.
Posted by 1000MPH | Jan 02, 2017 @ 09:06 PM | 2,497 Views
After seeing Aaron and Bruce fly their Tweety JW's I knew I had to have one.
Then I got a chance to fly Bruce's this past week and started to get the build ready the day I got back.
Extremely stable plane for its size.

4 cell AAA battery in the fuse
MKS 6100 servos
extra bottom spar
carbon TE
Hoping to squeeze in a Hitec Optima 6 rec'r
2-3 layers of 3M extreme BiDi tape
Hobby King covering.
Posted by 1000MPH | Jan 02, 2017 @ 11:47 AM | 2,198 Views
This is a Prototype build using JW wing cores cut to a 30 leading edge sweep.
I'm going to try and build it similar to my 40oz Bee and Rebel DS wings to compare DS and strong wind frontside performance.

48" span using 30 sweptback JW cores
Stock JW spar system with custom joiners. 4 piece .240" carbon tube.
Carbon TE
Additional carbon spar to make an A-frame
5 cell AA battery pack
Std sized Hitec analog servos with Karbonite gears. Actually Tower branded TS-64
Hitec 6 channel Optima receiver
3 layers of 3M extreme bidirectional tape
2mm Coroplast winglets
4-40 hardware
Probably going with FG bagged elevons
Posted by 1000MPH | Dec 09, 2016 @ 05:11 PM | 2,014 Views
This is an oldie but I replaced the battery this week and wanted to post the build specs for future reference before I forgot them...
  • JW60 Standard (Classic) kit.
  • Hitec HS 5475 Std sized digital servos
  • 5 cell 2/3/A sized battery pack in the fuse. I'll avoid these in the future and stick with AA Eneloops.
  • fully taped and gooped fuse. Goop tinted with Testor's enamel
  • 2 layers of extreme tape on the bias
  • balsa fin (replaced a few years ago)
  • fixed TE 6" in and out board.
  • 2-56 hardware
  • bottom hinged
  • carbon sub TE
  • layer of goop on spackled foam and over last layer of tape
  • Monokote covering
Top speed was 177 IIRC, if it was blowing I usually put up a heavier JW.
Up close it has a bit more of a textured surface compared to my other builds that usually have 1 or 2 more tape layers.
Other than that, I think it was one of my best builds and it flies well.
Oh, I also ended up drilling and pinning (with .080" FG) the bottom spars and joiner when they loosened up. I had used Mercury rubberized CA and it let go... JB weld from now on!
When she was young , fast, and pretty...

and now the old lady looks like this..

Posted by 1000MPH | Sep 20, 2016 @ 12:44 PM | 3,084 Views
I need a replacement for my Gyro Bee that I killed a few months ago.
I'm trying very hard to build this one simple, cheap and lightish.
Target weight is 30oz.
Build Specs:
Bee II cores
Std Hitec servos: HS 425's.
4 cell AA Sanyo Flat pack.
upgrade to .25" Fiberglass rod to replace the std carbon tube spar
.080" fg rod arched I-beam in stock location.
5mm x 1mm carbon ribbon sub TE spar.
Strapping tape: approx 2 full layers of standard 3" Bee tape.
thinned goop
spackle used sparingly
Oversized 2mm coroplast winglets
balsa wingtips (not winglets)
Orange Gyro/Rec'r
Posted by 1000MPH | Aug 31, 2016 @ 07:47 AM | 4,656 Views
I'm starting on a plan to build 3 JWs by next Spring. The idea is to develop a quicker building, lower cost, lower weight, more versatile airframe than my usual efforts.

All three will be built from the JW "Classic" kit available from jwglider.com.
They will use standard sized servos and 4 cell AA nimh battery packs.
The current plan is to use only 2 layers of strapping tape and a simple covering design using Hobby King covering.
The fin will be the stock coroplast and the balsa elevons will probably not be glassed.
One difference is I will be building the first one with solid fiberglass rod spars instead of the stock carbon tube spars to prove if they are stiff enough and without a significant weight penalty for use in future builds.
Posted by 1000MPH | May 04, 2016 @ 11:24 AM | 3,865 Views
I was lucky enough to get one of these awesome planes a few month ago. I've only flown it twice with speeds less than 200.
This one is a lighter version. MKS 6125's with third bearing support frames, 4 cell AA battery in the nose. Quite an amazing plane and good looking in the air.

...Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Nov 21, 2015 @ 05:02 PM | 5,835 Views
Windburner- 48" molded plank. Incredibly fast. Maidened last Christmas.
MKS 6125's in aluminum frames with external support bearing .
Oversized control horns
AA 4-cell Eneloop pack fits perfectly
Approx 52oz AUW

...Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Oct 19, 2015 @ 10:42 AM | 81,966 Views
Started on a JW36 this weekend while waiting for spackle to dry on my Sonic.
The fuse was sanded round, thin gooped, and spackled.
4 pc .080 FG rods used for reinforcements.
I also cut out the noseweight bay using my standard method.
Pic is before I cut it out.
Posted by 1000MPH | Sep 28, 2015 @ 11:35 AM | 11,923 Views
This Moth was one of my first foamies. I loved this plane but constant rec'r problems (Berg) cause it's premature demise... twice.
I shelved it at least 5 years ago (edit: almost 8 years ago!). The fuse became a test for improving my "goop fuse" process and it came out beautiful. I knew it would no longer be a lightweight so I fully enclosed the sides and left only an access hole in the leading edge cutout. This meant all radio gear would go in the wing. At the time I was still using 72Mhz Electron rec'rs and they wouldn't fit. I ended up installing a Corona but then ripped it out last year and dropped in an Optima 2.4. New Hs-85s were moved further out and a custom 4 cell AAA pack was ordered from CanuckEngineering. I also added some spar reinforcements and a carbon TE. The elevons were reused, filled and glassed. The linkages are over/under style.
So much foam was missing from the rebuild that half this wing must be half spackle. It looks nice now but won't survive abuse, I'm sure.
I'm not expecting a 200MPH plane but will be happy if it flies nice up to around 150-175.
Current weight is 37oz but it looks like it might take 9oz to balance at the conservative 1.5" recommended CG.
Edit: AUW 46....Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Sep 11, 2015 @ 07:31 AM | 7,481 Views
Aaron over at jwglider has recently re-released the classic Bowman Sonic.
This one will be be built for medium DS. I'm not going for a record build just want one of similar weight to my DS Bees which are about 44-45oz.
Edit: AUW is approx 50oz. Must be due to less sweep and heavier main spar behind the CG.
I'm starting now with hopes that it will be ready by Thanksgiving.

5 cell AA Eneloop flat pack
Hitec Optima 6 channel 2.4 with battery telemetry.
Standard Sized Tower TS-64 servos. These are the old and excellent Hitec HS-635 Karbonite gear BB servos as far as I can tell.
.240 Solid carbon rods in stock location
.220x.092" Carbon subTE spars
3 layers of strapping tape
Monokote /Ultracote/HobbyKing covering. Edit: only HK covering was used with Ultracote flames.
Oversized "Bee Style" winglets
Fiberglass bagged balsa elevons
4-40 linkages
Posted by 1000MPH | Sep 01, 2015 @ 05:58 PM | 6,270 Views
This is the 4th of my "40oz Bee" series builds.
Again, this is not built for outright speed but for DS furballs and general DSing. I expect top speed to be under 170 and in the 100-150 range.
The kit is an old Bee with an extra exposed spar slot on the top of the wing.
It's also the first DS combat wing I've built with fiberglass bagged elevons.
I hope to maiden this weekend.
See my other blog posts for build threads and pics of this style build.

Here are the specs:

5 cell batt pack
4 - .080" Fiberglass rod spars.
.25 Solid FG rod in stock location
extra spar in the exposed spar slot, I think it was the stock carbon tube spar
.22" Carbon subTE spar
Standard Hitec HS-425 servos moved outboard and just in front of the stock spar location
3 layers of strapping tape
Monokote/Ultracote and Hobbyking covering
Oversized winglets
Upgraded balsa elevons bagged in 6oz fiberglass cloth cut on the bias,
4-40 linkages

Here is the extra spar slot I mentioned above. I bought a 6 pack of these when Ming switched production to the Bee II.

...Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Jul 28, 2015 @ 08:10 AM | 7,126 Views
After reading a few threads on cheapo vacuum bagging techniques I decided to give it a try on some Bee elevons.

I bought a food saver at Costco a few months ago to actually use in the kitchen with an idea in the back of that my head that I might be able to use it for bagging fins or elevons. I had come across several mentions of the technique in RCG.

The food saver came with a 10 foot roll of 11 inch wide bag material. It has one smooth side and one textured side to help with the vacuum. I had already purchased a quart of West Systems epoxy on Amazon several years ago for finishing out a few molded planes. My local plastics store sells fiberglass cloth by the yard. I bought 2 yards of 6 ounce cloth for about 15 bucks.
In some of the threads I read about using dry erase instead of mylars. After talking to a couple friends while flying they suggested I simply use plastic sheeting from Home Depot, I was wary but willing to give it a try.
I bought some 4 mil. I also bought a few cheap disposable paintbrushes. I was concerned about the brush is losing it's bristles so I CA'd the bristles into the ferrule.
I thought about it for another few weeks and then decided I had stalled long enough, it was time to give it a shot.
I cut a 6 inch wide by 30+" long piece of 4mil plastic sheet. Then 2 pieces of glass cloth approx the same size but on the cloth's bias.

Next I made a bag long enough to fit it all in including a few sheets of paper towel...Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Jan 26, 2015 @ 01:19 PM | 7,739 Views
WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 29
Root Chord: 12.25"
Tip Chord: 5.25"

WS: 60"
Leading Edge Sweep: 16.5
Root Chord: 10.25"
Tip Chord: 4.5"

WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 20.5
Root Chord: 10.1"
Tip Chord: 4.1"

Predator Wings
WS: 36"
Leading Edge Sweep: 29
Root Chord: 11.75"
Tip Chord: 4.6"
Full foil cores

WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 29
Root Chord: 12.9"
Tip Chord: 6.4"
Full foil cores

Frank Cavazos Model Crafts
WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 27
Root Chord: 11.9"
Tip Chord: 4.9"
Elevons: 1.1"-2.6" (reverse tapered)

Wing Warrior
WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 30
Root Chord: 15"
Tip Chord: 6"
Elevons: 1.1" to 2.5" (reverse tapered)

Ridge Runner
WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 27.5
Root Chord: 11.8"
Tip Chord: 5"
Elevons: 1.1" to 2.5" (reverse tapered)

WS: 36"
Leading Edge Sweep: 30
Root Chord: 10.75"
Tip Chord: 4.25"
Elevons: .75" to 1.5" (reverse tapered)

WS: 25"
Leading Edge Sweep: 35.5
Root Chord: 7.4"
Tip Chord: 3 .2"

Combat Wings

Wing Span: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 30
Root Chord: 15"
Tip Chord: 6"
Elevons: 1.5" to 3" (reverse tapered)

Zagi LE
WS: 48"
Leading Edge Sweep: 30
Root Chord: 12"
Tip Chord: 4.75"
Elevons: .9" to 2" (reverse tapered)

Speed Wing
Mini Speed Wing
WS: 24"
Leading Edge Sweep: 37
Root Chord: 8.5"
Tip Chord: 3.5

WS: 48" (23-3/8"ea)
Leading Edge Sweep: 30
Root Chord: 11-5/8"
Tip Chord: 5-5/8"
Posted by 1000MPH | Jun 12, 2014 @ 12:15 AM | 9,126 Views
To celebrate the re-release of the JW kits I've decided to start another one. I need a fun flyer for Weldon.

Target Weight: 70-80oz
Solid spar "pro" version
Full span elevons.
Balsa and spruce fin
Gooped fuse
Metal geared Airtronics fast std sized servos
5 cell AA flat pack.
All gear in the wing
2.4 Hitec rec'r
Posted by 1000MPH | Oct 16, 2013 @ 08:30 PM | 11,266 Views

Up next is the Bee II.
This is the second of the 3 Bee builds I'm doing for DS "furballing".
The main build thread is here in the DS Forum.

Here are the modifications:
5 cell batt pack
4 - .080" Fiberglass rod spars.
.25 Solid FG rod in stock location
.22" Carbon subTE spar
Standard Hitec HS-325 servos moved outboard and just in front of the stock spar location
3 layers of strapping tape
Oversized winglets
Upgraded balsa elevons
4-40 linkages

Target weight: 40oz
Posted by 1000MPH | Sep 12, 2013 @ 11:25 PM | 10,248 Views
I decided to build 3 40oz EPP wings.
All versions of The Windrider Bee 48" . The Bee, Bee II, and the BeEvolution.
I want these planes to fly fast but not too fast and I want them built tough.
I would like to be able to have three pilots fly them at the same time in what we like to call a "DS furball".
This is not combat, more like formation flying with a little bit of rubbing and bumping.
The Bee and Bee II should fly identical but the build will differ slightly.
I'm starting with the BeEvolution.

BeEvolution - a molded EPP combat wing from Ming at Windrider.

Here are the modifications:
5 cell batt pack
4 - .080" Fiberglass rod spars.
.25 Solid FG rod in stock location
.22" Carbon subTE spar
Standard Hitec HS-325 servos moved outboard and just in front of the stock spar location
3 layers of strapping tape
Oversized winglets
Upgraded balsa elevons
4-40 linkages

The build thread is located here.

Posted by 1000MPH | Jul 23, 2013 @ 12:01 PM | 10,699 Views
JW Fuses a la Stu:

I weighed my last fuse at various stages and will list if available. Also, the pictures are of several different fuse builds so try not to get too confused.

1. Glue the rear of fuse with full strength goop. Let dry. (2.1oz)

2. "Sand it round" with 50 grit. Not 80 or 120 etc. I use a belt from a belt sander cuz I can't find 50 grit at home depot or walmart. 50 grit seems to pull up less chunks, go figure.
Click this bar to view the small image.

3. Add whatever reinforcements you want. My latest and greatest is 4 pieces of .080" fiberglass. 80 cents for a 4ft rod. End result seems as stiff as the carbon ones I've made.

4 Create a noseweight space. I slice a long rectangle of foam out of the front of the fuse, cut the sides off and goop them back in their original spot.

5. Thin goop the raw EPP. Several coats if you feel like it but not too thick. I use 2 coats max.

6. Spackle over the gooped fuse. Hint, wet EPP or watery spackle helps with the first application, especially over thinned goop.

7. Sand, respackle, sand, Repeat until satisfied.
...Continue Reading
Posted by 1000MPH | Mar 07, 2013 @ 11:43 AM | 34,721 Views
Several people have asked how I do my flames...

The top is covered in one solid color and then the flames are cut out of Monokote or Ultracoat and added. I grabbed a gif from an r/c car site a while back and I modified it in PhotoShop (scale, skew) to suit my needs. Ultracoat is easiest because you can easily transfer the image to the paper backing. With Monokote it's best to 3m77 the stencil to the backing and cut around it.
It takes only about 1/2 an hour to cut out one wing.
Apply the flames in one piece (per wing) very carefully using the lowest heat setting that will activate the adhesive. Start near the leading edge and work along it. You can go back and adhere the flames then turn up the heat and seal really well. The Fluoro Monokote always makes an ugly gluey mess. Clean up with acetone.


View all Images in thread

...Continue Reading