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Posted by VicT | Today @ 01:17 AM | 450 Views
The purpose of separating the Cirrus ailerons is for spoilerons and flaperons. Inboard flaps can be lowered 4-5 degrees and each aileron can be lowered 4-5 degrees so the whole trailing edge can be cambered into a thermal airfoil section. Moving the D switch from this position 1 to 2 will put the inboard flaps max down and both ailerons reflex max up for spoilerons. The 0 position has matching ailerons and flaps in the neutral camber position.

The stock ailerons are connected to ch 2 with a Y cable. The left aileron Y is connected to the left white fuselage fixture (lff). This middle plug in the fixture must be removed and replaced with a single cable that will be connected to ch 6/left aileron channel or LAL. Use a small Phillips head screwdriver to remove the 2 screws holding the lff to the fuselage. Then remove the 3 screws securing the 3 black male connectors but before doing this put Sharpie pen marks on the forward and aft plugs since they are the flap and light connectors. The middle connector will be removed and taped over to prevent it from being accidentally used.
Posted by VicT | Yesterday @ 10:29 AM | 749 Views
On my last flight I found the throttle setting where level flight (SAFE On) exists with full landing flaps. You read on the top line of your DX TX display. My setting is 46 percent. After landing I opened up the throttle curve program and turned it On and set point 3 at 46 percent. Then I set point 2 a little below at 41 and point 4 at 54 percent. This gives a flatter throttle slope to allow fine tuning when I turn onto base and final approach. Now I can reduce throttle to a nice glide slope setting and just use rudder to maintain localizer/azimuth/runway centerline. Its no Cat 3 but much better than prehistoric RC flying.
Posted by VicT | Oct 15, 2018 @ 10:04 PM | 742 Views
I like to stop the prop while gliding especially if I use a folding prop. Here is a link to the ESC Instructions.
https://www.horizonhobby.com/pdf/EFL...CInstSheet.pdf

I was able to get to the two fast tones programming step but no further. I called Horizon Tech and they said the Cirrus ESC can not be programmed. I could get a Maule 40 amp ESC for $30 or a V900 60 amp ESC for $60. Both are programmable.
I ordered an Aerostar 60 amp RVS ESC. I use it on my Maule with floats that has flaps on channel 6 and reverse on channel 5 using the 3 position E switch. The Aerostar is easy to program for prop brake. You have to have the prop stopped in order to have the ESC reverse the motor/prop direction. Reverse should be fun on the Cirrus for stopping and backing up on the runway.
Posted by VicT | Oct 15, 2018 @ 09:24 PM | 708 Views
I have many places where I fly RC and I have to carry the model and TX out to the runway or takeoff spot. For models like the high wing Apprentice, Valiant, Beaver, or Maule I use a retractable wire handle to lift and carry the model. The handle can be used to hang the model from a ceiling. The low wing Cirrus is different and so I use 65 b Spiderwire fishing line attached to the fuselage. I wrap the line with a clove hitch, put a drop of CA on the knot/toothpick and sink the tooth pick into the foam fuselage. When dry I test the pull strength of the string and joint. See...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 14, 2018 @ 10:51 PM | 890 Views
Tyvek hinges work very well as they can be used with regular CA and most foam airframes. Applied like Monocote hinges (but with CA rather than an iron) they are very strong and they dont stretch. I try and use them on ailerons, flaps, elevator and rudder. Here I use them on the canopy and receiver belly door for the Cirrus.

Get a Postal or Fedex envelope that is Tyvek. Sand both sides with 100-220 grit paper lightl to rough up the surface for CA. Use an accelerator on one side either the foam or Tyvek. Cut Tyvek into 1/8 wide strips. When applying CA use a very small amount and press down using clear Monocote backing as CA will not stick to this type of plastic.

The Cirrus canopy has 4 magnets and a foam tongue. Over time the magnets will either lose their magnetism or fall away due to heat expansion and contraction compared to the glue. Lose a canopy in flight? Good luck getting a replacement! Using the existing magnets and a hinge with a clasp increases the reliabilty of the latching design. You will never forget your canopy at home and no more canopys flying off the table at the flying field.

Start by applying a simple two strip hinge for the servo belly door. See pics. Then move on to the more complicated
Canopy....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 07, 2018 @ 09:44 PM | 5,519 Views
To improve air flow through the battery and ESC area I removed the RX and ESC. Using hemostats and a box cutter I enlarged the area from the ESC area to the receiver area. I added two intake vents and two exhaust vents aft of the canopy.

As a side modification I cut the bottom skeg area and installed a Dubro 1.25 inch Lite wheel. The axle is supported by two holes drilled into the white plastic belly pan. The wheel well area was opened up to aid in exhaust vents. I added a popsicle stick to support the battery holder and strap. It was moved aft an up just a little so cooling air can go under and around the 1050 4S ZOP lipo pack. Low temp glue gun was used to secure the battery holder and ESC. A poplsicle stick was glued between the fuse sides and the ESC....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 04, 2018 @ 09:30 PM | 1,357 Views
My first prototype wheel works but I feel a better placement will improve ground handling during landing roll out on grass and especially hard surface runways made from asphalt, concrete, or hard dirt/sand.

From past experience with my Calypso motor glider pictured below I think this is the ideal placement. The axle is directly under the leading edge of the wing. For the Conscendo a wheel housing would be required. I have some 1/32 inch ply that can be laminated to retain the axle bolt. Fiberglass cloth and epoxy will be used form the shape of the belly. Imbedding the wheel as much as possible in the fuselage will be attempted.
Posted by VicT | Oct 02, 2018 @ 09:12 AM | 1,418 Views
The approximate dihedral angle was measured as 21 degrees for Conscendo Advanced. Any angle between 18-22 will do. A greater angle will provide more turning performance with rudder only.

An alternative method is to cut the stock tube at the halfway point and insert a 4-6 inch long music wire bent slightly to create more dihedral. A straight 4-6 music wire can be put in to bring the stock dihedral back. The wire should be a tight fit and need not be glued in.

I taped the tips in place so they can be removed and replaced with tip plates made from 1/32-1/16 ply or plastic. A 4-5 inch long spar could be used to join the tip and wing. This will be a future project mod.

Here is a sketch of the dihedral angle:
Posted by VicT | Sep 28, 2018 @ 10:21 PM | 716 Views
My Calypso has a belly wheel and its useful in protecting the belly and it allows rudder steering on touchdown. A few times I have been able to steer the motorglider away from fences and obstructions. It works on hard surfaces, and dirt/grass surfaces. So I decided to make one for the CA.

I used a Dubro Mini Lite wheel 1.25 inches O.D. Using a 4 inch long 1/16 music wire I drilled out the .047 hole in the white plastic hub. I then used the same drill to drill out holes for the same wire. To keep the wheel centered I used two 1/16 wheel collars. The axle is glued to the white plastic receiver door using silicone to keep the axle from sliding.

I trimmed away some foam and pushed the servo cables down into the fuse cavity to make room for the wheel. I think that a 1.5 inch wheel would fit and might be better. The existing plastic skeg looks like it will interfer with the operation and I might remove most of that skid.
Posted by VicT | Sep 07, 2018 @ 08:54 AM | 1,334 Views
My good buddy lost his CA. It was the one with the big flaps, spoilerons, new Bangood motor, with turbo spinner and big blades. He said she climbed so quickly, then went into a thermal she went out of sight. Soaring angels took her....

Reminded me when I was given a Hobbie Hawk in 1983. No slopes in Fla so previous owner put a Cox 09 on a pylon. She climbed so nice but I could not shut the motor down. She was taken by the soaring angels.

Well the good news: My buddy bought two and Im working on skinning the second model with Keith Sparks plastic shields. Fuselage belly and aft turtleneck are done and the canopy is next. Yes she weighs more but the clear plastic looks so nice and the stiff plastic skin protects the squishy foam. A mini build with pics is planned for those that have ordered the $10 parts from Keith at Park Flyer Plastics.

I bought more motors and spinners and will experiment with some blades using a 4S pack that weighs the same as a Zippy 3S 1300 pack.

Sooner or later our hobby grade outrunner will need replacement. There are hundreds to chose from. I lucked out and found a Bangood motor that weighs 1 gram more but fits and can use a 3S or 4S pack. The 750 KV motor likes the higher voltage and bigger prop and does not get hot like the stock motor. Here are some pics....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Aug 29, 2018 @ 10:17 PM | 1,483 Views
38mm Diameter Turbo Folding Prop Spinner BB-Turbo-Spinners-38mm-x-4mm 2 $40.00
BB Turbo Spinner Collet - 3.17mm BB Turbo Spinner Collet - 3.17mm BB-Turbo-Spinner-Collet-3-17mm 2 $9.60

The following blades are for testing a 52 gram motor on 4S with stock 30A ESC:

Aeronaut Cam 12 Aeronaut Cam 12"X6.5" (30.5x16.5 cm) 7234-46-12X65 1 $12.70
Aeronaut Cam 10 Aeronaut Cam 10"X7" (25.5x18 cm)
Posted by VicT | Aug 21, 2018 @ 11:30 PM | 875 Views
Last time I flew I used an old 2200 3S that just did not have the voltage under full power amp load. So I was disappointed in Rapides climb rate. She glides fast and landing with spoilerons and full up still was too fast for me because I am used to flaps slowing me down. So I put away Rapide to finish up other projects and recently resurected Rapide. With success in programming my DX 9 and the Conscendo Advanced AR636 receiver for flaps and spoilerons I converted the Rapide to have the same flight mode features.

To solve the poor climb rate I installed an Admiral 2200 3S 45C pack with about 5 flights on my 102 inch Multiplex Cularis. I have been babying this pack for the last 5 charge cycles by selecting Lithium Ion (Lion) on my Hitech Black top charger. She shuts off at 99% and has about 91 percent capacity remaining (by LiPoly standards). So I dont over charge and this should increase charge/discharge cycles and keep voltage up during load. I stop flying when I read 15 percent capacity remaining on my Smart Meter or ISDT on board battery capacity meter.

I took the old non SAFE RX out and borrowed an AR636 SAFE receiver from a Commander. The receiver wires face aft and to get proper control movement for Self Level I had to install a reverser on the rudder and right aileron. The RX is attached to Lite Ply (with 3M Dual Lock). The plywood plate slides in to the cavity above the wing sockets in the fuselage. The bind LED faces forward so I...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Aug 19, 2018 @ 11:34 PM | 968 Views
AR 636 RX in another (larger/heavier) motorglider.
The DX9 spoileron and inboard flap program with flight modes worked very well with the Conscendo Advanced. So I removed a 7 ch RX and installed a 636 RX (Spitfire SAFE) in to my 10 yr old Cularis motorglider and used the program to see the differences. The 2.6 m/102 inch foamy is 4 lbs and 3 times as stiff as the CA. So she is much faster and is not effected by wind as much as the 1.5 m/59 inch 1.4 lb Conscendo.

The Self Level feature worked as well as the Conscendo gyro settings but is a little slower to roll level and to pitch level at all speeds. Full down stab restricts vertical dives to about 40 degrees down and so terminal velocity is much less than vertical. This makes high altitude dives more conservative and less prone to foamy flutter. No flutter was experienced.

My buddy has a Radian XL with an Apprentice Self Level receiver in her. I hope to put the Conscendo AR636 in her to see the differences.
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Posted by VicT | Jul 24, 2018 @ 11:04 PM | 1,521 Views
Separate flaps instead of flaperons or ailerons are more effective in decreasing touchdown speed and increasing descent rate.

Conscendo Advanced with flaps (0 min 3 sec)

Posted by VicT | Jul 23, 2018 @ 07:11 AM | 1,201 Views
After flying Conscendo Advanced (CA) with the ailerons as flaperons and spoilerons it was time to increase the performance by making flaps. Fortunately the stock 636 receiver has channel 6 operational and can be controlled by a 3 position switch (such as D on the DX 6 and up transmitters). The stock ailerons start at 160 mm from the side of the fuselage and I wanted more flap area so I filled in the hinge cutouts so that the ailerons start at 240 mm from the side of the fuselage. From inflight testing CA still rolls at a respectable rate even with less aileron area. However the increased flap area really slows CA down for low speed touchdowns. A plywood skeg provides protection for the flap ends during touchdown. Torsion springs (.020 O.D.) twisted provide flap return to plywood stops on top of the wing. One servo pulls on each string equally and amp draw is under .4 amps static. A music wire length adjuster and loop is provided so that the wings can be taken apart for storage and transport. 3M 40X tape is wrapped onto the trailing edge of the flap cutout and the whole flap is wrapped with this tape. This provides a good surface for the double sided poster tape that forms three over/under hinges. Tape is then placed over the exposed sticky side of the poster tape. The U shaped hinge is then pushed into the flap end and then twisted once before pushing the other end into the wing. The spring extends close to the aileron servo but does not come in contact.

Pictures to follow
Posted by VicT | Jul 16, 2018 @ 12:32 PM | 1,505 Views
There is a nice 104 gram 95C 850 mah 4S pack that will fit in the CA. Shorter motor runs in the 3-5 second time frame may extend motor off glide time and reduce weight. I plugged in a 90% charged 1500 4S 100C drone pack and after 4 seconds measured 23 Amps and 290 watts. I did another 5 second run with the Aeronautics blades and measured 20 amps and still high watts. Problem is the little. 28.8 mm motor got warmer so its either smaller blades or different motor rated for 3-4 cells. Will have to see what others have done. A 35 mm outrunner will fit with a little cowl trimming for cooling air.
Posted by VicT | Jul 13, 2018 @ 08:24 PM | 1,501 Views
Mounted the better Topmodel turbo spinner and Aeronautics 9.5x7 blades and on a Nano Tech 25-50C 1300 3S they pulled 13 A and provided 139 Watts static thrust. RTF with this pack and no underwing stickers is 692 gms/28.349=24.4 oz or 1.525 lbs 139/1.525=91 watts/lb.

This does not seem much but the climbout is not bad. I programmed up elevator so she climbs at 45 degrees in Self Level. With power off this elevator setting gives good speed for gliding. My thermal mode brings both ailerons down about 1/8 inch and up elevator slows her down. She does not thermal like my 10 oz DHLG but is fun anyway.

I set my motor timer for 5 minutes and landed with 30 seconds remaining. The pack had 12 percent remaining and total climb/glide time was 30 minutes. A second similar pack yielded 28 minutes and 31 percent remaining.

A lighter 4 cell pack should work to get faster climbs and lighter weight for thermaling.

I used 100 percent flaperons and 100 percent spoilerons. Self Level in roll axis works either left or right and I could not see a difference. With flaps I did not see the higher angle of descent that my DHLG shows. She slowed down but not as much as I thought. I will compare to the large center spring loaded flaps next. For now the 100 percent spoilererons work better with a higher sink rate. The nose up attitude is different but helps with tail down touchdowns first. Turbo Spinner with the center hold will pick up debris if nosed in...Continue Reading