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Posted by Tom Hunt | Jan 06, 2017 @ 05:45 PM | 1,527 Views
NOTE: updated on 3-6-17

A lot of modelers seem to pretty clueless as to how to determine the "scale" of a particular model.

It is not all that difficult. The model wingspan (in meters) divided by the full scale wingspan, in meters, (query Wiki if you want fast answers) is the scale.

If the full scale aircraft had a wing span of 11meters and the model is 1100mm (1.1 meters) then the the scale is 1.1/11 or 1/10th.

Here is a list of the some of the most popular past and present Warbirds offered.

Grouped in ever larger sizes and grouped by color, this will give one the idea of which models pair well with the other for realistic static photography.

Posted by Tom Hunt | Mar 26, 2016 @ 05:45 PM | 6,645 Views
Hey guys and gals,

Decided to bash a Dynam Tempest into a bit of a better looking model.

Things that are wrong with the original
  • Color scheme
  • Nose too long
  • Aft fuselage too short
  • Landing gear does not have enough fwd rake for grass fields
  • canopy to far fwd
  • Exhaust stacks not very scale.
  • 3 blade prop not scale
  • decals
  • no radiator in cowl inlet
  • NO WW2 warbird had right thrust!
  • chin inlet wrong shape!

What I will fix:
  • Color scheme (will use proper Dark Green / Ocean Grey / Medium Sea Grey scheme of all post 1941 British Aircraft
  • Nose too long (Shorten 1")
  • Aft fuselage too short (move tail back 1.25")
  • Landing gear does not have enough fwd rake for grass fields
    (replace crummy retracts with FMS 1400mm versions and rake fwd a bit)
  • canopy to far fwd (move aft .5")
  • Exhaust stacks not very scale. (3d Print new exhausts)
  • replace prop with 3d printed near scale 15 x 10 CCW rotating (viewed from the cockpit) 4 blade prop and spinner
  • Decals (probably make my own or get Callie to do them)
  • no radiator in cowl inlet (3D print representative radiator)
  • NO WW2 warbird had right thrust! (remove right thrust (3deg) and mount motor straight ahead)
  • chin inlet wrong shape! (fix, of course!)

Let's get started.

Posted by Tom Hunt | Jan 30, 2016 @ 01:35 PM | 7,814 Views
Hi Guys and Gals

Presented below is a make-over of the very first DF Spitfire MK1a that came out of the mold that Stuart sent me for flight test evaluation. It came to me in bare white foam but in all other ways was representative of a production model in shape and function.

I decided to make this a "B" scheme (mirror image camo of the "A" scheme found on a stock DF spit) Mk1a flown by Robert Stanford-Tuck around May 1940 during the "phony war". GR-P N3249.

First I needed to resize the horizontal tail to match the full scale. It was decided to make the model with a 10% larger tail to make it easier for novice to intermediate fliers to fly. I printed out a scale size tail and cut the stock model one to size in planform first. The I marked the middle of the foam on the LE and TE to give myself something to sand to. I also marked the approximate "high point" of the airfoil on the top and bottom surface.

Sanding EPO is not pretty. You have to use some pretty coarse grit <100. After rough sanding, one can go over this with 180-200grit, but do not be too concerned if you don't get it too smooth....Continue Reading
Posted by Tom Hunt | Jan 20, 2016 @ 06:03 PM | 11,249 Views
Hey Guys

when doing my "full" mod of the Durafly 1100mm P-40N to accept the Turnigy Retracts

I realized that anyone that is willing to buy the full retracts (the struts at this length are NOT available separately) just for the struts, could modify the stock retracts/struts to except the oleos.

Here is how it goes.

First you need to take your dremel and a cut-off wheel and cut off the existing 3mm landing gear leg about 20mm from the trunnion.

then you need to file/grind a flat on the inboard side of the stub strut for the grub (set) screws on the new Oleo strut. NOTE the flat you file may not necessarily be exactly parallel to the fuselage centerline as the set screws put in the oleo leg are not put in the accurately. you may have to adjust the flat a couple of times, so do NOT grind/file too deep at first.

Next you need to grind or file the alum oleo strut so that it clears the motor housing of the retract. A flat is already provided, but it must be made slightly deeper and longer. You also need to open up the wheel axle hole to 3mm just as I did in the full retract mod.

slip the strut on and lock tight, test and go fly. very easy!

have fun
Posted by Tom Hunt | Jan 17, 2016 @ 01:46 PM | 7,385 Views
I have modified one of the earlier Durafly P-40N prototypes I had gotten from Stuart Warne at Hobby King to accept these Landing gear units. They offer the same 100deg forward rotation with the 90 twist to stow flat in the wing like the P-40 and F4U.

It is quite a bit of work as these are far from being drop in replacements for the stock solid strut units. But if you are interested in repeating this, keep reading.

You will need:
a dremel tool and a 1/8" router bit.
a disk or belt sander
3/16" (5mm) wood dowels
#2 sheet metal screws.

Let's get started.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Oct 25, 2013 @ 10:39 AM | 12,087 Views
HI Gang

I have decided to put this mod in my blog rather than clog up the thread in the electric warbirds section.

I recently acquired a "kit" version of the new Durafly BF-110 which includes no electronics, but I did acquire the retracts as these were specific enough to the aircraft for me not wanting to go at it alone. I also picked up a pair of mating prop adapaters to the props/spinners supplied.

With this said, I had to buy my own motors/esc's and servos. I also chose NOT to install the rudder servos, nor the tailwheel servo as I plan on using differential throttle to steer on the ground and in the air. I thought the weight savings would allow me to add functional bob drop instead.

let's get to it.

Motor choice and instalation:
I chose a pair of BP 2212-13 (1000kv). I did have to ream out the stock prop adpaters to 3.2mm (1/8) for these motors however. I have a small lathe in my shop, so this was no bother.

I had to add a bit of plywood in front of the supplied mounts in the nacelles to position the motors properly under the cowl.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2013 @ 03:03 PM | 11,009 Views
I have decide to create a directory of my foam model bashes.

FMS 1450mm P-51D (V1) to B (way before FMS decided to make a "B") Status: complete model still in good flying shape.

FMS 1400mm Bf-109(?) to BF-109E night fighter. Status: complete model still in good flying shape.

FMS 1400mm MK9 Spitfire to MK5. Status: complete model still in good flying shape.

FMS 1400mm MK9 Spitfire to MK12. Status: complete model still in good flying shape.

FMS 1400mm BF-109F bash and repaint Status: completed, model still flying

Durafly 1100mm MK24 Spitfire to MK21. Status: completed. model still flying

Dynam 1200mm Tempest bash and repaint: Status: in process
Posted by Tom Hunt | Jan 28, 2012 @ 08:54 AM | 6,835 Views
Hi Guys

Here is two sneak peeks at a couple of projects I will be attacking this year.

Probably first will be the bash of the new PZ Mk9 Spitfire into a BoB Mk1a. I began by creating a new canopy plug.

The white part is the external armour plating found on the early marks. (Mk9 had internal plating). It was made by the 3d printing process. The sliding part of the canopy is also "flat sided". It was much different looking than the "buldged" canopy of the later mks.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 29, 2011 @ 03:34 PM | 16,592 Views
I spent the entire day putting the 11 servos in the wing for all the "stuff" that is hapenning out there.

centerline bomb drop
each wing:
1 aileron (eflite s-75)
2 flap (2 eflite s75s in LH wing, 2 HS-55's in RH wing beacuse the rotate opposite one another)
1 bomb rack bomb drop (FMA s-70)
1 dive brake (FMA s-20)

I also made new device hinges in my favorite machine as the stock ones rotate in the wrong place (the hinge line is inside the device, NOT on the bottom of the wing)...Continue Reading
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 23, 2011 @ 02:38 PM | 18,318 Views
Got to work some today after writing a product review for FLY Rc.

I have decided to drop a single 250Kg (scaled of course) on the centerline trapeze. I did my best to replicate the trapeze based on the info I had. It hinges just behind the chin scoop and attaches to the bomb through a slotted fitting at the CG of the bomb.

I used an old FMA S90 servo for a drop mechanism. It is a simple swing-out-of-the-way pin arrangement through an eye bolt on the bomb. I think the pictures can tell the rest.

I still can't do movies yet, but plan on soon. For now a simulated drop is depicted last....Continue Reading
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 03:25 PM | 16,165 Views
Yanked out the supplied servo plate as it was not quite fitting the HS-81 (rudder) and HS-85BB (elev) servos I used. Mounted them on some hardwood rails and glued them to fuselage relieved some foam to get the servo wires forward.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 01:44 PM | 16,320 Views
FMS installs the antenna mast on the top of the canopy backwards. It should be upright, not aft swept. To turn it around requires a very long small tip phillips screwdriver (with a hole poked thru the canopy floor) or you cut a window in the bottom. Just loosen the screw and turn 180 degrees!
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 01:33 PM | 16,159 Views
I desired to remove one elevator pushrod and join the two elevators together. I also needed to relocate the elevator pushrod on the RHS. It just sticks to far out of the model to look good.

Because the tail plugs in from each side, so would any joiner to the elevators. I went thru my brass scrap box and found some telecoping square tubing. A long piece glued to one side will slip into a short piece on the other. Once I glued the tube in, I did not like the load transfer in torsion so I added some doubler plates on the top and bottom with 1/64th ply.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 08:11 AM | 16,079 Views

My spinner/adapter nut thread (or the thread on the prop adapter on the motor) was a little "tight and rough". If you find yours to be this way too, just rub some soap on the threads and spin the nut down by hand a few times.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 07:04 AM | 16,033 Views
The G+C 600kv motor and mount is a tight fit in the cowl, so I dremeled out the foam a bit. I also enlarged the hole passing the wire through to the fuselage area.

The Motor mount (with the included right thrust) was a bit too much right, so i had to put a couple of washers behind the mount on the right side to get the spinner centered on the cowl. The vertical alignment was right-on!
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 22, 2011 @ 06:59 AM | 16,010 Views
Ok Guys

gotta get started... flying season is almost here. This weekend seems to be a real bust here in the NE... too much wind, rain and such, so I am going to get started.

I started by pulling off the decals on the fuselage and checking it for "scale". Lining up the canopy on a scaled three view from a trusted source (Monograph series from the czech rep) I found the cowl area short about 1/2" and the lower radiator short by almost as much. The second I will fix to get my bomb-drop and trapeze in the correct place. All other proportions seem very well represented on the fuse and fin.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Apr 20, 2011 @ 05:37 PM | 17,447 Views
The model arrived in excellent shape, no outward damage on any parts. (kydawg1, sorry about your wing tips!). It does have just one quality issue.

The cowl is missing the magnet on the top front side (though the slot was put there for it) and the slot AND the magnet are missing on the fuselage side.

since I bought the kit, I cannot comment on any of the electical components.

I check the model against a very good czech drawn three view and the model is very close to scale. The only descrepancy I could find is the horizontal tail is slightly large in span and chord than it should be for this scale models. The outbd dihedral is a bit high, but not that noticeable.

I will be bashing mine into a JU-87D3 bomb dropping version. 1 250KG bomb on centerline and 4 50Kg bombs on the wing racks.
Posted by Tom Hunt | Feb 21, 2011 @ 06:18 PM | 17,484 Views
Did not pay attention cutting the horn balance off the model to make it "scale". I failed to realize (until today doing some reseach on the F4U) that the horn balance does not extend all the way to the LE of the stab.