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Posted by buildem336 | Jan 05, 2010 @ 12:32 AM | 10,933 Views
The first upgrade I did is run it on my WK-2801TX and stiffen the Head dampening. You can use the Blade 400 head dampening shims to stiffen the 60B head I used 5 shims per side and that made the performance improve making it more agile and got rid of wobble it had when doing tic tocs. Stiffer dampening is only needed for 3d flight.

2801TX settings
If you put the RX-2801E and run your Walkera 60B with your 2801TX here are my settings.

TRVADJ - 100% on all except rudder at 120%L 120%R Throttle 150%H 150%L
SWAATS - Swashmix - Elev -100% Aile -100% Pit. -63%
GYRHLD - Gyrosens - Gyro/Aux2 0:82% 1:80%
Throhold - Thro Hold - Hold Pos -20%
Elev - D/R 100% Exp +20%
Aile - D/R 100% Exp +20%
Rudd - D/R 100% Exp +25%
Throttle curve:
Norm - 0-30-100-100-100
St-1 - 100-flat across
St-2 - 100 flat across
Norm - 20-35-50-75-100
St-1 - 0-25-50-75-100
St-2 - 0-23-50-77-100

Here is a video with 2801TX and stiffer head dampening.

Walkera 60#B Stock with 2801TX (4 min 50 sec)

Posted by buildem336 | Jan 04, 2010 @ 11:00 AM | 11,055 Views
Here are the settings I am using on my Walkera 4g6 with the 2801TX.
Make sure you are making 0 pitch at center stick. These settings will work with any motor you put in your 4g6.

TRVADJ - 100% on all except rudder at 120%
SWAATS - Swashmix - Elev 79% Aile 79% Pit. -58%
GYRHLD - Gyrosens - Gyro/Aux2 0:81% 1:80%
Throhold - Thro Hold - Hold Pos - -10%
DR&EXP - Elev - D/R 100% Exp +30%
Aile - D/R 100% Exp +30%
Rudd - D/R 87% Exp +25%
CURVES - Thrcurve - Norm - 0-35-100-100-100
St-1 - 100-flat across
St-2 - 100 flat across
Pitcurve - Norm - 31.5-41.5-50-75-100
St-1 - 0-25-50-75-100
St-2 - 0-23-50-77-100
Posted by buildem336 | Dec 26, 2009 @ 10:14 PM | 11,511 Views
Here are some adjustments for my Walkera 60#B with the 2601TX.

The first thing I did was check for Loctite and was happy to find that everything that needed it had it. Second I disconnected the main motor turned on the heli set my 2601TX to idle up and mid stick throttle to check if I was making 0 pitch at center stick. It was very close a couple of turns on the ball links and it was ready.

Now to mess with the Dipswitches.

Now with all dip switches off and knobs at 0 Turn on dipswitch 10 Exp/Throttle curve. Now the V2 knob leave alone at center 0. Turning the V2 Knob toward the pos side speeds cyclic up around center and turning it to the neg side slows things down so leave at 0 this should be nice and stable.
The V1 knob set all the way clockwise to 100% pos this gives you more HS around center stick making HS more consistent and the tail holds better. Now turn off switch 10 to save settings and return knobs to 0.

Now with all dip switches off and knobs at 0 Turn on dip switch 11 Total pitch and normal mode pitch curve. Now the V2 Knob controls total pitch range I set my V2 knob to 4 clicks toward the Pos side from 0. This should give you about 12 pos 12 neg pitch. Now the V1 Knob Turn all the way counterclockwise to negative 100% this gives you almost no pitch at center stick in normal mode making the transition from Idle up to normal mode when landing smoother. Now turn off switch 11 to save settings and re-center knobs to 0.

Now gyro adjustments.
...Continue Reading
Posted by buildem336 | Apr 29, 2009 @ 12:52 AM | 13,781 Views
For anyone that wants to know how I adjusted my 4g3 to fly its best here is a step by step. Now this is for the early 4g3 with the RX2605.

If you have the newer RX2605A then just skip the step where I trim it all the way to the right plug in the heli and then to the left after the 4g3 initializes. On the newer RX I have tuned that does not apply anymore just leave the trim centered.

This is how I adjusted my heli to get rid of the tail kicking out and get the most performance out of it.

1. With a fresh pack I put my rudder trim all the way to the right
2. turn on the radio, initialize the heli and
3. then turn the rudder all the way to the left.
4. If in a hover the nose keeps turning to the left, I dont trim it to the right, instead I give it more rudder mix in the 4n1, a little at a time.
5. re-initialize, give it full left trim after its done initializing and keep giving it more rudder mix till at full rudder trim left the tail holds pretty steady.
This alows the tail to have the most available power to it.

Put a fresh battery pack before we start adjusting for switching between normal mode and 3D mode

Make sure both knobs are center, turn on dipswitch 11, and now the V1 knob controls how much pitch the heli makes at center stick in normal mode, so I turn it down to the second dot from center going to the negative side. That gets rid of the jumping when going from Idle up back to normal mode. If you still get jumping give it more to the negative...Continue Reading