flyenrw's blog - RC Groups
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Posted by flyenrw | Feb 07, 2018 @ 07:14 PM | 2,528 Views
I've noticed a frequency to the landing gear topic.
My concern is the small potential problem with it's design using rubber bands as supplied with the potential for breakage.
The rubber bands are stretched tightly over sharp edges of screw threads, as they stretch to their limits!
I've felt that an easy fix for this arrangement would be to fashion an outer tubular sleeve to prevent the cutting of the rubber as expanded, just simply slipped over the threads.
A lot of clever alternatives have been mentioned, but still focus on the rubber based method of spring.
Failure of this part can lead to considerable damage to the gear, as there are delicate weld joints and holes drilled narrowly close to the edge of the wire.
I mention this because, as this model ages, fewer replacement parts are available.
I've owned my plane for as long a time as the first comments on this forum, but have only in the past year started putting it together.
I can't lay claim to the idea of using springs in place of the rubber bands or bungee, but after having seen this idea in use, it seems faultless and maintenance free, so for my plane I've opted to use springs in place of rubber bands.
By placing 4 individual springs, I also felt that should one of them fail, there are still three more on each leg that add support for the gear leg, where if a bungee type is doubled and fails, the integrity of the support could be greatly lost by percentage of how many times it might be rapped around.
...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Sep 15, 2017 @ 09:40 PM | 1,723 Views
The weather! My Nemesis!
I am VERY THANKFUL! our damage and losses here in Florida was an acceptable trade off to anything otherwise.

It's been a while that I just haven't been able to build anything but patience!

I took a little time to start on the wing struts.
The metal material supplied in the kit is heavy. I know I keep saying this , but really!, why did they have to use such heavy metal.
It is almost indestructible! It seems to be a mix of aluminum and a low grade tin.

I decided to use K & S Aluminum Streamline tubing. I used 5/8 " for the leading strut and 1/2" for the trailing.
I have cut down the jury strut wing attach fittings , so that I can reduce the size of the jury struts from 9/16 to 1/4".
A little closer to scale!
Using Piper original drawings, I derived the semi- scale design and shape.

A great web-sight reference is Christian Sturm Super Cub Project. This is a full scale build with links to others and a link at the bottom of the page to Piper aircraft original drawings which I have referenced for my project. Noting the drawing s of the struts in the attached photos.

The main strut fuselage attach fitting is a Dubro 4/40 threaded coupler.
I rough cut a piece basswood after drilling an undersized hole to accept a 4/40 threaded rod that will to fit with-in the streamline tube.
I used thick CA to glue the assembly in place. On the exterior I finished off the end with a washer, which will give a...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Aug 10, 2017 @ 12:56 PM | 1,895 Views
Still unable to paint! I'm venturing a guess to wait another month! Every try yields disaster with the paint flashing off flat and discolored with all the humidity from rain.
So where I would have had the cockpit finished by now, the weather is adding time to be a little creative with the finishing details. Not such a bad thing when I review my choices for those cockpit details.

My prior paint scheme was 4 colors, inclusive of silver trim, but now it is more simple three colors, white, black and red.

The plane I am modeling has a lot of carbon fiber pieces in place of the conventional materials used.

Though I couldn't come across the scale representation of carbon fiber for this project, I enjoyed the effect the 3D carbon vinyl sheeting I have used will give.
The product is 3M 1080 CF12 Black Carbon. Peal and stick! You can use a heat gun to it if needed to shape tight curves and such. To see that type of detail look close at the middle panel to see the rectangular panel added for the cabin heat and fuel tank shut off, used on the full scale.

The carbon vinyl sheeting will be used on the wing tank covers, some inspection covers on the wing, exiting control covers, elevator access covers and some trim in the cockpit.

Another trip to Jo Anns Fabric yields another treasure I used for the wing inspection covers. I purchased a package of eye balls one would use making a stuffed animal or doll.
The clear part of the eye ball was domed just enough that...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jul 20, 2017 @ 08:13 PM | 2,727 Views
I've given the cockpit a second coat of paint, and when the humidity dies around here , I'll finish up a couple areas.
In the mean time while waiting, I disassembled the main gear, sanded and primed and gave the parts their second coat of a new color!
Still holding out for better weather.

So I got a little restless and decided to cap the wing tip curve with a bow of basswood to give it just a little more depth in appearance, though the motivation was how do I re-do the kit's navigation light and attach my own design to the wing tip!
If to look close at the wing-tip picture of the new basswood BOW, where it passed across the old light mounting area you can see the misshapen sanding the factory did to fit the light. The new BOW crosses this area with a large gap that I utilized with light plywood bracing as a channel to drill the wire routing hole.

As carefully as I could, I completely dissembled the kit's wing tip light cover from it's metal frame housing and then detached the light cover from a framework used to hold the two pieces together.
As I rapped the aluminum to build my replacement frame, I shaped a 1/8th inch piece of lite-plywood to help form the shape while bending and also give a base to recess the light cover just enough to mount the lens into it's new frame.

Being that the BOW is now a little wider at it's edge, I was able to drill a hole centered to the wing tip BOW and run the wire easily to the Navigation light.
I drilled a...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jul 13, 2017 @ 06:10 PM | 3,724 Views
If it weren't for the rain !, still waiting to have less humidity here.
I caught a small break yesterday and was able to shoot some primer and finish off a couple of small parts, running in and outside as I sprayed.
Not ideal conditions for painting.
Still yet, using Dupli-color acrylic lacquer in the rattle can, I primed a few pieces successfully!
I like this product because, when it dries, it is a good hard finish and not soft like enamel.
It also is a light spray out of the can, making finer detail easier to cover.
In my haste to keep moving when I use enamel, I always end up leaving smudge marks by touching the surface too soon.


Now to sand and fill the blemishes and the interior will now have a good start towards adding the colors I'll be using.
Looking at the panel picture attached , I have shown a crescent shaped panel for covering the rear window frame. It is used to overlap the glued edge of the clear plastic window that is glued to the frame. For the rectangular windows, I will add the same wood thickness, in strips, to hide the clear plastic window frame as it is glued in place.

The front floor board is now complete.
I added the rear seat brake pedals, made from plywood and push rods from carbon fiber, to the front break pedals.

Though REALLY out of scale, and incredibly cramped, it does the trick to fool the eye and turned out like I wanted! Trompe-l' oeil

Given the short reprieve to add a little paint , I was also able to finish the cockpit control sticks.
I have shown in one of the pictures, how simple and effective it is to use heat shrink tubing as a cover over the tape to add the look of a hand grip. The top of the stick is a servo eyelet filled with plastic filler, sanded and painted flat black.
Posted by flyenrw | Jul 08, 2017 @ 11:10 PM | 17,451 Views
I was able to complete the flying wires for the Empennage today.
I used 1-72 brass bolts with nuts and washers to attach the fittings to the tail.
The cylindrical tube that the threaded brass coupler is inserted, is a 1/8" aluminum tube cut to 3/8" length.
The factory drilled holes on the vertical and horizontal stab were opened for a 4-40 socket cap screw.
Very large and again, weight ads up, so I opted for a smaller screw and lined the drilled vertical and horizontal stab hole with a nylon tube to accept my smaller screw choice.
Using the Sullivan 2-56 thur-hole, for wire up to .034, threaded brass coupler, I was able to simulate the attach fitting used on the full scale Cub.
Again, it's not scale, but a close resemblance.

My main goal was weight.
By eliminating the .062 rod supplied and bulky nylon clevis, I was able to lightened the tail further.

The tail feathers are now ready to be covered.
Black , oh yeah!
It took a while to decide, as there are many good looking design ideas for the Super Cub, but finally I chose a scheme .
Honestly, it was a tough choice to make. some designs I admired are very challenging to work with iron on covering. Knowing that, I wanted some detail but without lots of over lapping in the design application.

I still need to install the elevator push rod to finalize the rear fuselage details and I decided to use Sullivan flex rod for the elevator operation.
Flex rod is fairly light...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jul 07, 2017 @ 07:25 PM | 14,476 Views
I still managed to scratched out a little build time with company visiting and July 4th.
I had earlier mentioned I wanted to tie the elevator half s together as one.
The kit as designed calls for a split piano wire connecting individually to each half.

I wanted less weight than two heavy rods and given the size of this plane and my intent to putt around the sky in slow scale like flight, I feel that to connect the elevators as one and use one push rod would work just fine.
Again eliminating the additional weight.
My thoughts are, if this were a 3-D Cub, that might be a more positive control link necessary if to use two push rods, but I have come up with a very simple design that is strong and torsion-ally very ridged. When trying to use any type of flat stock as a connector, I found a surprising amount of flex. When choosing the carbon tube, the flex disappeared.
So the connection is simple. I used a extremely light weight 4 mm hollow carbon tube which will be glued to each half of the elevators.
Using a 3/8" x 1/4'"bass wood block, I cut a receiving hole to mate the carbon tube. The basswood with the hole drilled, was cut to a one inch width.
I cut out a section of the leading edge of each elevator, glued and shaped the basswood block to the rest of the shape surrounding it.
When it comes time to install the horizontal stabilizers, the elevators will be covered and hinged to the stabilizer and secured to a level status with each...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 28, 2017 @ 08:55 PM | 3,280 Views
I used to enjoy rain.............now it's like Johnny, take your medicine, it's good for ya! I'm not making this stuff up.....it has been non stop! I just lost a half hours posting as lightening struck near by and the power went out.
Couple pictures of my nemesis!

One more interior panel and the cockpit sides will be finished and ready for paint, well some day! I shot those progress pictures and the main access door entry.
I've been looking at the landing light crevice and wanted to add something simple but effective.
As I looked into reflectors, I finally found a 12 mm plastic bowl suitable for a 5 mm LED, for a great value at .25 cents each at Fiber Optic Products.
I felt like I found gold to come across the size I wanted. Trouble is I have to paint them. but ALCLAD II paint to the rescue.
I've used their Chrome ( G ) before on a Stearman project, for the radial engine valve covers. I was pretty satisfied and surprised it turned out bright. A couple pictures for the end result. So I will spray the white reflectors with this finish.

I have used a lot of the very lite ply .020 in the cockpit and decided to frame the sides of the cut out of the landing light to clean up the edges.

My plane had a lot of dings and surface grinding by people that are looking at a time clock and not the project. If you look at the right side of the light box you will see a balsa insert block used to replace a very badly shaped crushed leading edge of the...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 24, 2017 @ 01:00 PM | 4,001 Views
Oh the weather.............just can't paint!
I was able to finish the floor boards with a final coat of polycrylic, possibly because it is a water based product,
( nothing flashed off ) , but when I shot the glass black for the pedals after primer coating, the surface turned rough and the gloss disappeared.
So...... that is going to become a re-do! Not for a while!
This has to be the wettest summer yet.
Enough moaning and groaning.
I've mounted the tail wheel with the carbon fiber arm and heavier duty springs.
Where I thought I might use the dome top aluminum nut used to cap the post of the tail wheel that came with some of the parts purchased for this project, I ultimately felt it was too large and opted for a simple wheel collar, so I cut the threads off the post of the tail wheel housing and applied a flat spot to it for the wheel collar set screw.
The picture side by side shows the improvement in height, lifting the tail by a 1/2". I believe it will also help get the tail on step gently as the wing angle of attack will already be better suited to lift, rather than at a more acute angle of attack!
Without having to apply a sudden burst of power increasing P factor, should tame the tendency of the plane to be squirrel y and require large rudder corrections before take off and no lift to the wing.
Having read the forum and feed back about this plane and tendencies, I formulated a couple of ideas to try, such as this one, in hopes of...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 13, 2017 @ 05:52 PM | 3,470 Views
Still raining and lots of humdidity!
Can't use it as an excuse, there's lots to be done!

I wanted to hide the servo and lighting wires so I started with fabricating a roof with wire guides. I'll be using an EMOTEC plug , ( found at Esprite models). because everything is small I'll have to enclose the plug into the wing root, that way the plug and wires will be less out of view when viewing the plane from the access window in the top of the wing.
I decided all the kit push rods had to go! All the kit supplies are VERY HEAVY. With all the plane torn apart as it is, it makes it so much easier to consider alternate methods.
I opted for pull pull wire....a very light weight system.
The Kit used heavy piano wire and full length nylon sleeves. All that has been removed!
I will join the elevator half's and use one carbon fiber push rod . I wanted to use a push rod centered from the inside center but it is just too small an area.
I mounted the Rudder servo in the cockpit, so the idea and design slowed my progress to detail the cockpit, but now that it is in place, onward ho!
Having mounted it inside takes more of the weight off the tail.
I have read lots of comments in the Super Cub forum about adding nose weight.
Where I can, I try to avoid additional weight to be added. Moving things around is always my first course of action.
Since I removed so much of the interior framing and with what wood has been used for detail added, it is less weight total than that removed...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 10, 2017 @ 03:11 PM | 4,090 Views
It's still raining!, I haven't seen this much rain in Florida in a very long time!
So wanting to push though with progress on my Cub, I filled the Boot cowl area of the fuselage with sheet 1/16th inch balsa to level it to the false frame wood stringers.
That way, when the rain stops, and the humidity subsides, it will be ready to sand, ( outside ) !
As shown on the starboard side, the forward top of the Boot cowl, where additional wood has been added, has been sanded flush , so that it is now level with the attached stringers.
As the fuselage nears completion, I'll take the entire frame down to a minimum thickness, enough to show the relief intended.
On the full scale plane, this forward area is covered in Aluminum sheeting. I wanted this area of my plane to be somewhat similar to the full scale.
The windshield area will now fit similar to the full scale, in that the post next to the entry has a stringer running down it's length which will allow for the windshield to fit flush against it's edge of that stringer.
When the windshield is mounted in place, the side post will be capped with the framing that also perimeters the base of the windshield, to hold the windshieldt in place .
I have cut about 1/4" of the model's windshield flange away to add the attachment detail I mention. Still a bit away from that part of my intended changes, but since I added the wood I though I would mention the reasons why.

I added a couple more cut outs to the forward...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 07, 2017 @ 08:50 PM | 4,130 Views
It's still raining, absolutely no way to paint! , so I got a little work done on the front floor board.

Though it's cramped as I knew it would be, I decided to add rudder and brake peddles and the appropriate connections to follow.
Even though it's not scale, I felt it looked too empty without them.
So, all those holes drilled either side of the elongated oval slots that the peddles fit thru will have the pictured chrome strap attached with a brass hex head #90 screw. When it is time to mount all of these parts they will just be glued in place from below.
On the full scale, underside the floor board , the peddle tube is captured with a strap that raps around the tubing allowing movement of the tube, so that the brake peddle can pivot back and forth.
On my floor board, the strapping is just for detail!
Again good ole Jo Ann Fabrics... these little strapping things are called spacer bars on their packaging. There were three sizes to the package. I've already used two of the sizes on this cockpit.
So a quick shot of today's work having cut out all the appropriate holes and drilled the screw holes for the straps on the front floor board.
Nothing glued or painted yet.
I'm leaving the floor board natural with a acrylic satin water based paint. The floor boards all have been sanded for their 3 rd coat, yet to be applied.

I finished off the front joy stick for the control joke.
The handled was made using trim tape rapped around the stick in four locations, covered in heat shrink tubing. The top is an eyelet filled with plastic filler and painted flat black.
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 04, 2017 @ 05:21 PM | 3,752 Views
Fresh out of the paint booth, still real wet outside from all the rain and more forecast. I decided to stop spraying when I saw water droplets developing on the surface walls of my paint booth. Just wanna see it finished! !, but I'm going to wait!

Started on my instrument panel last night and made a bezel out of ply and hardwood, for a Garman type GPS unit. I added some switches and fuses, mixture and carb heat pulls, all from basic stuff. Again, Jo Ann fabric shop for small beads of different shapes and sizes.
The switch bases are made from #80 brass washer and #90 nut glues together, then inserting a small bent piece of a pin cut to length, with a little paint turns it into a switch...at least for me!

Got a few things from Hobby City yesterday to convert into a tail wheel. I took a much larger 30- 50 size carbon fiber tail wheel arm and started to narrow it down as it is much too bulky, realizing that process before my choice.
I noticed this E-Flight Super Cub sits real low in the back at rest, with the stock wheel arrangement and to my eye I wanted to take away some of the hard angle created because of that and lift the back end.
Also following the complaint read on the forum that the stock wheel isn't a good choice as most felt it ineffective.
There was also another problem to overcome and that was one of weight. I have a Sullivan tail wheel, but I felt making my own design I could lighten the parts.
The end result will be something a bit...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | Jun 02, 2017 @ 05:42 PM | 4,384 Views
I couldn't prime or paint anything today because it rained most of the afternoon and here in Florida it's like a hot wet blanket is draped over you after raining. I managed just a couple little things earlier.
So give or take a little finish sanding on a variety of the parts, I hope to paint tomorrow!
I feel the control yoke and housing has progressed like I had hoped. Here and there a little frustrating, but overall worth it to me for the end result.
With individual pictures I wanted to show the parts made before assembly and nothing yet is permanently assembled, only placed together to show the planned location.
AS I earlier mentioned, there is no scale space up front with this model. Everything forward of the instrument panel is space needed for the battery.
Though I am still undecided , I may decide to jam the peddles into the front floor board just for the appearance.
As it is, I am adjusting space as I go, but only if you're inspector Clouseau would it matter.
To look at the front floor board you see the control stick and forward of the control stick, ( since the full scale is fly by wire controls ), you'll see an assembly under the floor with a sheave sandwiched between two brackets. This assembly would be used to loop the control wire in a connected circle of movement, back to the elevator and from the elevators bell horn , returning to the rear assembly of this control yoke at the passenger control stick.
For purposes of detail only I have...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | May 31, 2017 @ 11:55 PM | 4,531 Views
Sometimes it's the tedious things that sabotage a project but when I feel impatient, I stop , put what ever I am doing away and start again later.
I share this because I have found that with time, much like the endless hours of practice any of us perfect our specialties, at some point, it all starts to come together.
These few parts I have posted tonight have taken a few days to get this far.
To examine one of my pictures of the control yoke sheath, attached to the tube, you can see a wire stretched across to the tube, holding at it's bitter end, a small tube to be glued. I show this because it is a pain staking task! Here I have to use thick CA glue, which takes a while to set. When the parts are glued, they are not strong enough to work with, so I mix up JB Weld and surround the small tube with the JB Weld for the strength. It also gives the look of a metal fitting that has been welded into place.
The finished product you can see in another picture showing the # 90 nut and bolt I used to simulate a clamp around the aileron movement of the control tube.
I have made two ends. One for the pilot and one for the rear seat. these controls are used if to pilot the full scale plane.
The more I work with aluminum tube and sheeting the more I realize just how versatile it is to accomplish small scale detail.
I made two control sticks and the connecting clevises that attaches the cable to the control rod inside the tube.
The slow pace of these items...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | May 29, 2017 @ 01:16 PM | 3,954 Views
Towards the goal of finishing my Super Cub Cockpit, I really should be working on the side panels but the idea came to me while planning the next step and I just had to play it out!
I have wanted to change the look of the provided seats. I was dreaming up this elaborate scheme of adding wood face panels to simulate tufted upholstery, when I remembered I had used FLOCKING to simulate fabric. OH so much easier!!
The future design scheme of my Super Cub exterior will use the colors red, black, white and nickle.
So to add a little pop to the interior, using the existing seat, I gave them a very lite sanding ,where the new flocking will be applied, just to keep the bulk down, applied a quick undercoating of flat black paint as a base color so any lighter applied flocking would not show the lighter base color of the original seat and then I flocked the boarder and back of the seat with a charcoal color.
I feel the overall impression of flocking makes for a simple change and is very easy to apply.
I used a soft camel hair paint brush for a water base glue, much like a Mod Podge craft glue ... applied where I want the flocking to adhere, when it is all over glossy with glue, you are ready to apply the flocking.
The yellow colored cardboard Tube in Tube pictured has holes in one end where and when the two tubes are drawn apart you force air to expel the flocking placed inside, as you push the tubes back down on each other. Simple, 30 colors to choose....Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | May 27, 2017 @ 10:15 PM | 4,030 Views
To keep things moving along, I might get side tracked from time to time but only with the bigger picture in mind.
I worked a little more on completing the Instrument panel ,the floor boards and the seating and control stick.
I designed a simple frame conversion from the original cockpit seat magnetic attachment to give the rear seat a little more scale effect.
In addition to both seat frames finished, I created a seat belt hold down attach fittings. Shown on the rear seat temporarily taped in place.
On my trip to Jo Ann fabrics the other day, I spotted these spacer bars and thought I could use these for a few things planned in the cockpit. Sure enough , seat belt holders! More to come for their use.
While situating the seats I felt it was time to start on the simulated control yoke for aileron and elevator.
Using aluminum tubing and sheet aluminum , the end result is a start of the Super Cub control stick.
Started the control sticks shroud, used to attach the control sticks movement to the to lower horizontal tube. Using the full scale drawings and a post -it note pad I made a small paper template. Then traced the finish shape to the flat sheet goods and crudely cut it out. anything I could find to cut shape or file. Using an extra piece of 5/32" tubing used for the lower connecting control tube I burnished the shape with polishing the shape using an e-xacto blade holder handle. It was the smoothest hard tool I had at the moment.
Given what I am...Continue Reading
Posted by flyenrw | May 24, 2017 @ 03:50 PM | 3,956 Views
I have finished the lower starboard cockpit wall. By having both lower sides completed, I have now fit the floor boards intended. nothing will be glued into place until all the cockpit pieces are finished and I am sure everything works out as planned.
I have read here in this forum, the belief is, the landing gear mount is week.
It sure looks it!
When I cut out all of the upper framing, I had reservations of lost strength, but as I examined where the forces to the frame are applied, to me it looked like it was all from the bottom, where the landing gear attaches, so if anything, it should be stronger.
I have used a 3/32 birch plywood for the floor boards, and I feel that when all is sandwiched together with the lower fuselage framing glued to the floor boards, there will be an additional strength added by this lamination of framing and the landing gear attachment should turn out stronger.
Now that the floor boards are readied, the front seat was been trimmed to a height suitable, and temporarily arranged for mounting.
The fuselage frame side dimensions are not quite spot on, so the seat still appears higher than it should but if you take into consideration the lower door does not fall flush to the fuselage, if the hinge line were moved up, the proportions would be more appropriate, to have the seat flush with the entry frame but this is not a Top Gun model.
I am just trying to tweek it here and there as the challenge of adding a little scale.
The cockpit is really too small to add all the appropriate flooring detail as the proper distances are not achievable with the battery needed directly in front, so I feel once the control sticks are in place, the seats, side panels and dash should leave enough first impression.
I'll continue towards finishing the side panels and rear seat attachment.
I will have a false wall to the rear cockpit to accommodate the running of wires, out of sight.
Posted by flyenrw | May 16, 2017 @ 09:01 PM | 4,314 Views
I was torn between redesigning the seat or giving the impression, to simulate the Super Cub welded seat frame. I opted for the easier rout.
It is really not something you can see a whole lot of as it is inside the cockpit, but still yet, I wanted some resemblance to the full scale.
So I added some wood framing for strength to support the vertical 5/32 aluminum tubing and did the cross bracing in 1/16th aluminum tube.
All the parts were super-glued with medium viscosity.
It is yet to be sanded and fine tuned with a few more coats of primer and paint. If you look close, you can see the roughness in the finish as I just now sprayed the frame.

I somewhat followed the original Super Cub design.
Though not spot on, I didn't what to spend the time to fabricate everything from scratch, so I modified, ever so slightly the length of the original wood frame and built the new seat platform around those dimensions.

I really thought the magnet platform designed by E-flight was cleaver and very useful, so I decided to keep it. I like the idea of being able to remove the seat.
At some point I believe I will make new seats , but for now what came with the kit will be just fine.

When it comes time to fabricate the floor boards, I will have some wood blocking mounted to the fuselage frame below, that the tubular seat frame will be glued to as it passes though holes cut in the floor boards; this way it will take on a similar method and appearance as that of the full scale Cub.

This seat modification only took 3 hrs from concept to where you see it finished. I'll admit...... A few nights prior, my wife did ask me if I was mesmerized while I gazed at the full scale plans.

A little sneak preview of the Super Cub's instrument panel.
Posted by flyenrw | May 14, 2017 @ 05:47 PM | 3,930 Views
Here's the result of an 8 hr day. No idea where it went. They say time fly's when your having fun!

The instrument panel is about half way finished. Kinda pushed it a bit as I would like to see it in place soon. Several coats of primer and clear coat sanded and sanded and well, sanded. by the time the top finish coats go on, it should be good and smooth.
I went shopping at a Hobby Lobby of some beads, pins and things.
I plan on making some fuses, choke and the like for the dash board. I am working on the 3D radio equipment now and the Garmin G T X 327, popular for more current day aircraft.

The throttle handles are made from 3/32 aluminum tubing hammered flat. Bent around a couple of drill bits for the shape.
I then augured the pin into the flat to open the two sides of the tubing. I cut off the pin to fit the short distance, glued painted , and there you have it, a throttle handle.
They will be glued to a resting throttle position to the inside backside of the panel after the panels are finish painted.