Posted by Rogosi | Yesterday @ 10:41 PM | 547 Views
I've decided to finally try building something. Been interested in gliders over the past year or so and we've been trying to get more people in our club involved as well. Figured I'd get something larger and more "scale" in general and this one came to mind. Simple design and hopefully simple to build as well. It's not going to be exact scale in final product or livery.
Posted by Old_Pilot | Yesterday @ 02:35 PM | 2,129 Views
Almost finished with the drawings, and decided to take a break and build the landing gear frame. Support struts are 1/8", axle is 3/16. Bent the struts using my bending tool, and soldered them up using my wire frame jig, using brass tubing collars to hold the pieces in place whilst I solder....
Posted by unboxingexp | Yesterday @ 12:00 PM | 2,548 Views
Here is my take on a Minilongrange design: I used a 533 Switchback Pro racing frame, 4mm Gatehunter X arms, Brotherhobby 2004 motors, Gemfan 5126 bi-blades, M80pro GPS, Caddx Baby Ratel II and a Rush Ultimate plus VTX. Overall, I like this design a lot. I'ts not well suited for freestyle but perfect for cruising.
Minilongrange build + test (8 min 1 sec)

Posted by djmoose | Yesterday @ 08:24 AM | 3,143 Views
CYModel 84" Lavochkin La-7 ARF: Part 2 of episode 3: We will attach both the ailerons and flaps as well as final mounting of the servos and connecting the turnbuckles.
Thanks so much for watching!

"Like the La-5, the outer leading edge of the wings were equipped with metal leading edge slats, which again necessitated that the pitot tube be mounted to the lower surface of the starboard wing. It appears that, like most of the La-5's, the La-7 was equipped with fixed trim tabs on both ailerons, and that these trim tabs were bendable on the ground."
Moore, Jason Nicholas. "The La-7 in Detail" Lavochkin Fighters of the Second World War, Fonthill Media Limited, 2016. pp 127

How to attach the Ailerons/Flaps and wing servo hardware on the CYModel 84" Lavochkin La-7 ARF (11 min 33 sec)

Posted by Old_Pilot | Jan 27, 2022 @ 12:51 PM | 5,459 Views
I've spent the last 2 days simplifying the Caudron.....slab fuse and feathers, lighter wings, and tab-in-slot for the formers and I have to write the code to cut it. Wing ribs are 3/32, LE is 1/4 sq, TE is notched for the ribs, Feathers are 3/16, TE and ailerons are 1/8, formers are 1/8 lite ply, firewall is (2) 1/8" laminated ply. Managed to lower the wing loading by almost 2 oz/sq'll take me a day or so to write out the blanks and pieces.....probably cut her next week
Posted by Frank Feldhaus | Jan 27, 2022 @ 01:59 AM | 6,853 Views
Hello everyone,

I bought an old kit from Einar Johnsson some time ago. It is the Saab Viggen in scale 1:8. This model was powered years ago with a Ramtec DF . The kit is already scale built. It consists of a large number of fiberglass attachments. I have attached some pictures of the kit.

Data of the model Saab Viggen AJ-37 Einar Johnsson:

Wingspan: 130cm
Length: 190cm
EWD 1į


BF100 BF turbines
BVM hopper tank
Kevlar tank CMJETS
electr. landing gear

The model gets a scale retractable landing gear. A drawing of the complete landing gear will be made in the future. The landing gear will be driven by three JP Hobby ER-200 Alloy Electric Retract Motor. In advance it is necessary to see if the dimensions of the main landing gear fit in the wing.

Unfortunately all fuselage spars are missing from the model. These must be made in advance.

I traced the model in the CAD Rhino V5 drawing program. The fuselage is much narrower than the original drawing from Saab. Here the large inlet was enlarged in favor of the RamTEC DF.

to do list:

- draw a scale landing gear
- draw a turbine mount
- .....

...Continue Reading
Posted by Dirty Dee | Jan 26, 2022 @ 11:59 PM | 7,014 Views
There are various techniques people have been using, but I want to share the workflows which have worked for 2 of my designs:

600mm Wingspan Lippisch P.13a

840mm Wingspan Pusher Prop Horten IX

What is Thin-Wall?
Simplest terms, this is a slicing method where the printer extrudes a single perimeter of material with zero infill. The walls of the part will in turn have the same thickness of the nozzle. This may vary as you can have a nozzle over-extrude (print thicker) or under-extrude (print thinner) based on parameters defined in the slicer software, or if you are using a "foaming" filament which has an expansion rate that is dependent of flow rate and nozzle temperature.

The other feature with thin wall is internal structures are designed in a manner that they are perceived as an "exterior surface" by the slicer software. These internal structures are then spaced in such a manner than when the single perimeter is printed, it fuses/welds itself to the adjacent surface.
Posted by old4570 | Jan 26, 2022 @ 08:30 PM | 7,581 Views
Crashed MT flies again (6 min 2 sec)

A) Looks like my battery capacity down .. ( Zippy 350 2s )
B) Wing struts were broken .. So BBQ skewers and rubber bands .. That one little screw that holds the wing = Not enough !
C) Another stupid dog walker ...

Looks like I have to start my landing pattern when I have the one minute warning ...
Posted by Old_Pilot | Jan 26, 2022 @ 06:51 PM | 7,940 Views
For RickC_RCAV8R
Posted by Alan 3D | Jan 26, 2022 @ 06:44 PM | 7,864 Views
I wired the smoke Evac controls for a large Mall. I wired the detectors, control panel, actuators and the relays that turns massive fans on all over the top of the building for smoke Evac. The Smoke Evac is designed for two things. To help keep people in the building from getting asphyxiated from smoke and protect the merchandise as well as reduce smoke damage to the rest of the building.

For those insisting on keeping
LIPO batteries inside, there is an option for a smoke Evac system which you can make. Basically it's blowing the smoke out of the containment box bunker to outside preventing smoke damage inside. The air that goes into the box and blown/ sucked out can come from outside or inside.

Post number 10 on link below for Smokey vac diagram.
Posted by Joaquin DP | Jan 26, 2022 @ 05:05 PM | 8,074 Views
So i recently bought a new Aeroscout S 2 and after a few initial flights the plane started making constant buzzing noises coming from the front end of the plane (under the battery). I also have very limited movement of the rudder and elevator, and no movement of the ailerons. Is there anything i could be doing wrong and is there any way to fix this? The noise is much louder at first and then quietens down after a few seconds and it also seems to change when I move the sticks and trim. Is there any way to stop this noise as well as improve my control of the other parts of the plane? Attached is a link to a video of the noise
Posted by Alan 3D | Jan 26, 2022 @ 03:05 PM | 8,446 Views
Most of my lipos of many sizes are kept in Tin Cans Outside. Why because these are a potential fire hazard. A few of my batteries are stored in square tins with covers. My largest batteries are in drywall lined tool boxes and Ammo Cans each battery partitioned from one another. Plenty of holes for venting if a fire was to occur. A sealed container will make any lipo fire more intense. Maybe even explode. No known container will contain a lipo fire, especially the smoke which can be lethal. It has to be vented.

The majority of the Tin Cans I use come from food. The largest being the Cracker Can where you can put 3 or 4 other Cans inside that large Can. Even room at top if you wanted to put in something like sandbags over lipos. Or room for something else.

There are many sizes and you probably throw the stuff away everyday. Some of the stuff you don't have to do anything with it. Just put your battery in the Can or if you want to cover then you can use a second Can or a tuna fish Can as a lid which often you'll have to add something to the lid to make it fit on firmly if that is what you want but in most cases that's not what I do.
All most all of my can lids are not firmly stuck together and can easily vent preferably upward but not totally necessary. They are usually in another container or pan to help the Cans stay together and in one position which is usually upright but again not necessary. You can lay the Cans down also inside another container preferably...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Jan 26, 2022 @ 10:14 AM | 8,876 Views
The Arrows Marlin comes with no receiver and I chose the AR637T for itís Forward Programming features, Telemetry, and AS3X /SAFE gyro features. I replaced the stock 40 A ESC with an Avian 45 A ESC for itís advanced telemetry, ease of programming, and for reverse thrust. With a SMART 2200 4S the lipo sends info to the ESC then to the RX and then to the NX8 transmitter.

I have been using spoilerons on all of my models using the DX9 and NX8. However with flaps the DX9 requires the more complex sailplane type program. It can be done but the NX8 is so much easier because of the 2 aileron, 1 flap choice in the Airplane type program. In the Flap System menu (see pic) there are 3 columns: Flap, Elev, and Crow. I have assigned FM (transmitter Flight Modes) to various phases of flight.

I plug the right aileron into chan 2 and the left aileron into chan 6. The roll gyro levels the Marlin with just the right aileron and needs no adjustment in the gain menu. I use the default gains for all 3 axis and do not set up a switch or dial to adjust gains. Likewise I have been using the default angle limits for aileron, elevator, and rudder and the Marlin reacts normally. I am using 50% aileron to rudder mix for all phases of flight except for B2 Manual Mode where I want axial rolls without any rudder mixing.

Flight Modes are set up on the B, D, and Throttle Switch. B0 is SAFE, B1 is Circle Mode, and B2 is Manual Mode. The majority of my flying is in the B0 SAFE...Continue Reading
Posted by ARGliding | Jan 26, 2022 @ 08:11 AM | 9,177 Views
Very Budget RC Bomb Drop (0 min 19 sec)

Posted by Raoul Mitgong | Jan 25, 2022 @ 09:20 PM | 10,019 Views
It's amazing that all logic with regard to the functioning of the world and the outcomes of its events continues to be thrown out the window amidst the pandemic.

Otherwise intelligent people have bought into the trope that "if just all the people were vaccinated ( "X" times) and wore masks inside and outside of their homes that the covid issue would go away.

Here is stuff that "Experts" have said and that has been proven:

1. Vaccinated people still get covid-in fact- most people with covid at this time are already double vaccinated.
2. A vaccinated person with covid can still spread the disease.
3. Vaccines MAY help people with covid to not have serious symptoms.

Give the above facts and occurences how on earth is this lame vaccine supposed to stop Covid?????

If the polio vaccine were as bad as the covid vaccine 90% of Americans would have been at least affected by polio, today.