Posted by Jack Crossfire | Sep 16, 2021 @ 11:00 PM | 12,125 Views
So the lion kingdom finally got a set of retaining rings & the tool for ending the motors slipping off. It should now be possible to use wide offroad tires. 1 fell swipe of the full faith & credit ended a year of problems. Full faith & credit is sometimes worth a lot more than being creative.

The tool is too big to fit in the 6mm retaining rings, but is necessary to put them on. Once on, the tool can easily fit to take them off. There is a choice between angled tips & straight tips, but they're all different sizes. The smallest tip is only straight. What helps is using a metal shaft to twist apart the retaining ring just enough for the tool to get in.
Posted by aero nishi | Sep 16, 2021 @ 05:35 PM | 12,453 Views
RC Factory Step One BABY with Whoop FC - automated flight (0 min 40 sec)

Whoop FC was installed to RC Factory Step One BABY. Since it flies with brushed motors, I used brushed FC, Happymodel BeecoreX FR F4.

○Betaflight Setting
The setting is very simple because it uses only two motors. The right wing motor was connected to the motor 1 connector of the FC and the left one was to motor 2 connecter. The differential thrust was set to control yaw by rudder. The betaflight cli commands were as follows:

# mixer
mmix reset
mmix 0 1.000 0.000 0.000 -1.0 #Motor1
mmix 1 1.000 0.000 0.000 1.0 #Motor2
set small_angle=180

PID Setting
Since the yaw axis control was used to control the motor speeds, only yaw PID settings were necessary. I used P 15 I 0 D 0.

Board Alignment
FC was placed inside the fuselage as shown in the photo. The board alignment was roll -90 pitch -135 yaw 0. Since FC gets very hot, it is recommended to remove the canopy and cool down after each flight.

GWS 25mm wheels were installed for takeoff and landing in the gym.

This is optional but BeecoreX has OSD and VTX, so you can turn it into an FPV plane by simply connecting a camera (Runcam Nano 3, weighs only 1.1g!). Be careful of cooling FC. It may be necessary to place the FC outside the fuselage.

○Like an Indoor Rubber-Powered Airplane
You can fly Step One BABY with the above settings. I attached a hex file I used to make it fly like an...Continue Reading
Posted by simages | Sep 16, 2021 @ 02:42 PM | 10,186 Views
Never got into "correctly" programming of a 6 servo Sailplane, but started to program a few Acro models with Crow/Butterfly and implementing spoilers on a couple....... That's when I knew it was time to get serious about actually programing my Stealth DX18 to create models for a better experience and of course for flying success!

So, I started to search for help on the configuration and setups for my two 6 servo sailplanes and that's when I came across Sherman Knight, aka Duworm and Red Sailplane where his work is available.
Total of 250 pages, Holy C***, worth every dollar!
Posted by mojowoykin | Sep 16, 2021 @ 11:28 AM | 10,030 Views
Hey All,...

If anyone is interested...
I can post these in the classifieds,..
shoot me a PM .
I can also meet up locally in San Diego county.

We Plan on some caps and warmer stuff in a bit.

you can also email me from


All windsocks are now Orange unless requested differently.

Black and white, heather green and heather Blue
$20 plus ship($8) or local pickup in SD county

Individual Requests will be considered
...Continue Reading
Posted by C5000052 | Sep 16, 2021 @ 10:21 AM | 9,691 Views
Hi, Iíve just completed this kit I bought. I originally had one that my father built for me in 1967. Iíve tried to use the original colour scheme. I hope you like it. Thanks Keith
Posted by PittSpecial | Sep 16, 2021 @ 01:39 AM | 13,246 Views
For Part-2 then, go to:


Work got in the way, as usual and some family obligations so, for two (2) nights I have made some slow progress to finish up that Top Hatch and ways to secure it.

First, I had to make planking frame around the Top Hatch cover itself to provide some rigid strength and so the same with the FUSE side.

Just a lesson learn here that you would want to glue in the End-Cap formers at the FUSE end (both sides) before you proceed in cutting the underlying Ply platform which is right underneath the Top Hatch Cover. Why? Because the factory only provided a thin and weak end-cap plywood formers and when you start sawing these just come unglued but, not to the point of any damage but, still just a heads UP.

At time of this write-up I have finally figured out a way to secure the Top Hatch cover to the FUSE by using some lose magnets from a Park Zone 480 Brushless motor and at the FUSE end a machine bolt with a large metal washer. I have not tried it yet because the glue that will hold the magnets is presently curing.

Okay, I am tired so, here's some pictures of my rather slow progress less the magnets.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Sep 15, 2021 @ 09:25 PM | 13,760 Views
Pressing down on the board in just the right way got the servo to glitch reproducibly. Only after thoroughly cleaning the PWM trace, the problem finally appeared.

There was a micrometer scale break in the trace, completely invisible when it was dirty. It's believed to have been there since the board was made. The board was made with a dedicated buck converter for the servo. An xacto nicked it while cutting a wire to the buck converter. The oldest photo is too small & dark, but some grotesque unsharping reveals 3 slightly brighter pixels in a row where the break was spotted later.

The break only cost $35 in unnecessary new servos. The previous $150 of servos were bought during the lunchbox days to solve common wear. Fixing it required soldering a jumper wire, despite such a small break. Merely tinning it wouldn't do the job.

With the electronicals working again, it became clear that the steering is still loose. This PID controller might need a highpass filter.
Posted by NELICOPTER | Sep 15, 2021 @ 08:52 PM | 11,584 Views
Over the last couple years I've had a Sailfly-X, Mobula 7, and Crux3.
While seeking performance improvements and a replacement frame for the Crux 3 I started mucking around with 3d printing Aerodynamic motor pods strung together with carbon fibre rods.

Currently I am using ABS and 1mm solid carbon rods. The designs are my own and I used tinkercad. They hold the motors captive so in the 3 inch frame for example, they allow for only one screw to be used rather than 2 or 4 screws, saving 1-2 grams of AUW on top of the 1.8g of the crux.

The durability of the frames is yet to be fully determined but I crashed the smaller frame and broke the camera but not the frame.

My 65mm prop size frame is only 1.8 grams (compared to a mobula 7 frame which weighs 4.4 grams) and uses Mobula components. The AUW is currently 18.5g with a trashy 1.7g camera. Soon I will have the EX0802 motors which will shave off another 0.5 of a gram, and if I get a diamond fc then I will shave off about another gram, a runcam nano 3 will reduce it by 0.6

The 3 inch frame weighs 3.8 grams compared to the stock 5.6 grams.

I have more parts coming

This project is very much a work in progress, more is to come.
Posted by AlkaM | Sep 15, 2021 @ 01:11 PM | 14,028 Views
First off thanks to Bob for the idea and the testing.

A while back I was approached with the idea of making a brushless speed controller that would work on a standard slot car track. There were a number of challenges that we had to solve in order to make this possible. We needed an esc that would turn on and run at a very low voltage, self start and run as soon as current was sufficient. The goal was to make the brushless motor work and feel much like a brushed system where the speed is controlled by varying the input voltage.

The hardware for sub 2v ESC
The stm32g071gbu6 MCU was used
No gate drivers, We are not worried about switching speed as the esc will be in 100 percent duty cycle operation at all times.
Texas Instruments low gate threshold voltage P and N mosfets are used,
Attached you will find a PDF of the schematic. Also the kicad project files. with layout and gerbers

The Software
The firmware is a modified version of AM32 with the signal detection, arming and throttle removed.. replaced by starting at 100 percent immediately. Please physically mark any esc's that have this version of the firmware on, it's not safe for other applications!
The auto startup can be halted by applying a solid high signal to the input. This will make the ESC enter the bootloader mode where it can be re-programmed or settings altered.
A built binary for the board is also attached.
There firmware and github project can be found here: ( will be added soon)

please feel free to use the chat for any questions about the ESC or brushless slot car control in general. If there are any other slot car drivers out there let me know what you think.

Brushless2 (0 min 44 sec)

Slot car ESC, operation from 2 to 17V. 100k Rpm. (0 min 32 sec)

Posted by kopterheld | Sep 15, 2021 @ 10:43 AM | 12,188 Views
iFlight Nazgul5 V2 with XING-E 2207 1800KV 6S motors with SucceX-E FF, 45A ESC's and improved frame, RaceCam R1 camera with 25-800mW VTX
BG Coupon: BGC429D5 or DRONES6 -

My Video with EN subtitle
iFlight Nazgul5 V2 F7 RaceCam R1 upgraded 2021 (5 min 46 sec)

Flown with the new TBS Ethix Mambo transmitter and a Crossfire module

iFlight RaceCam R1 which is the same as CADDX Ratel V2

...Continue Reading
Posted by Old_Pilot | Sep 15, 2021 @ 07:29 AM | 12,894 Views

I've used vellum (tracing paper) to cover a few of my birds (Alvin, Clearprint, Helix, etc). It's a lot stronger that tissue, but not as strong as Mylar, has no directional grain so it shrinks uniformly, and it accepts paint readily.

You can also use brown paper, but it's heavy. I've never tried the iron on fabrics, though lots of people have had great success with it
Posted by newelectro | Sep 14, 2021 @ 04:47 PM | 13,365 Views
Posted by Mad_angler1 | Sep 14, 2021 @ 01:44 PM | 15,031 Views

In this video I give a complete overview, review and teardown of the Scout HD FPV Goggles for HD Zero from Fat Shark.


Posted by pewe galendo | Sep 14, 2021 @ 11:55 AM | 13,505 Views
This is my first RC car. I build it gradually, part by part. The first parts I bought were the wheels and tires, then the chassis, axle and so on.
I really want the RC car that I build will have good performance.
Posted by xplaneguy | Sep 13, 2021 @ 11:11 PM | 16,326 Views
It's been a very busy summer...but lots of fun!

Is there anything better in this hobby than scoring amazing deals and even freebies from local modelers and friends? Yes, enjoying those old models with friends!

In my case, most folks are just thrilled that someone is willing to invest time and energy into making these old models airworthy, and enjoyed again. That was my mission this summer and the result has been very rewarding. Some aircraft required restoration and others were almost ready to fly.

There's a nice mix of 1/4 scale gas, vintage glow/nitro, electric powered aircraft, sailplanes and vintage kits. All have been flown except the PT-19 and the sailplanes. Currently, my favorite to fly is the Balsa USA 1/4 scale Piper J-3 Cub with Zenoah G23 gas engine. It took about two weeks to get it refreshed and upgraded. It's a sweetheart to fly and looks amazing in the air!

There are a number of vintage fun-fly gatherings in the works with models of all shapes and sizes. I'm looking forward to an exciting time, sharing a passion with great friends.

Keep 'Em Flyin!...Continue Reading
Posted by Sammy70 | Sep 13, 2021 @ 08:13 PM | 15,948 Views
FlyingBalsa Doozy autogyro
Posted by mtdoramike | Sep 13, 2021 @ 07:24 PM | 16,422 Views
This was a little orphan project that I picked up and felt sorry for so I decided to finish it. It had been kicked around from pillar to post with noone taking the time to give it a little love so I adopted it. I put about 150 hours in it to get her presentable enough to be adopted out. I named it "How's it Hangin? BR549.
Posted by mtdoramike | Sep 13, 2021 @ 07:18 PM | 15,863 Views
I loved building the Pat Tritle design Yoda's Ark so much, I desided to build a larger version. The original measure like 26" in length. So I found a fiberglass hull 33" long and thought this work make a good candidate for this project. I had to do quite a bit of build up on the front deck of the hull about 1 1/2" to get the right profile and cut 1/4" off the top of the sides and transome. Built the wood framing to install in the hull and about 400 hours later, here she is. I call her the Lucky Lady.