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Posted by VicT | Mar 14, 2019 @ 01:38 AM | 1,182 Views
As an experiment I want to see how the TT would perform as a motorglider but still retain the sportplane qualities. I removed the stock landing gear and installed the Valiant 1.2 gear which saves about .7 oz but is about half the area drag. I installed the Aerostar 60 amp ESC and activated the prop brake. With 10/6 folding blades on a 55 mm B+B aluminum spinner and 2200 4S she pulls 33 amps and 470 watts. She pulls very strongly.

The flight test was successful and I am pleased with the performance of the folding prop and Valiant landing gear. There is enough thrust on the smaller prop to maintain full up elevator (in SAFE Self Level) and climb at a near vertical pitch angle. At 200-400 ft with the motor stopped and flaps retracted she has a much better L/D glide ratio. Driftdown times are increased so that with 2:42 minutes of power used there was a 9:21 flight. There was 45 percent remaining on the 3200 4S 40C Kinexsis lipo pack so total flight time can be extended. However the style of flying is different than most flyers in my club.

The motor glider uses the motor to climb and glide. The glide can be slow or fast depending upon thermal and lift activity. On my test flight it was around sunset so wind and lift was scarce. However on sunny days between 10-2 lift is usually enough to maintain altitude and depending upon wing loading increase or climb. Ill be comparing her to more dedicated foamy motor gliders like my Conscendo, Calypso, Radian...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Mar 07, 2019 @ 10:27 PM | 1,090 Views
Ive flown my Turbo Timber with 3S 2200 45C Admirals, 1500 4S CHNL 100 C cells and Turnigy Graphene 2200 75 C 4S cells. The performance on 4S is the most desirable but endurance is not as good as 3S. The Graphene was tested and started out at 90 percent charged. Flying consisted of 5 max power climbs to 300 ft. 5 inside loops. 15 aileron rolls and 5 takeoffs and landings. This took a little less than 5 minutes using the DX9 power on timer. Total flight time was about 7 minutes because of power off glide times. Capacity of the Graphene 4S pack started out at 90 percent and at the end of 5 minutes was measured at 31 percent remaining. So 90-31= 59 Percent in 5 minutes or 59/5=11.8 percent/minute. If flying were to stop at 15 percent remaining then a total of 90-15= 75 percent would be used. This would take about 75 %/ 11.8 %/min X = 6.35 minutes. A 3200 4S 40 C pack has been recommended by Horizon and will be tested for similar endurance time.
Posted by VicT | Mar 07, 2019 @ 07:37 PM | 1,049 Views
All dimensions in millimeters.
Posted by VicT | Mar 05, 2019 @ 10:11 PM | 1,140 Views
The 60 amp Aerostar has advantages over the stock Turbo Timber Eflite 50 amp ESC:
1. With an extra channel you can reverse the rotation of the motor/prop for reverse thrust during surface operations.
2. The brake can be programmed on to stop the prop from windmilling. This reduces drag but also allows the ESC to go into reverse. I have not been able to turn the brake on for the stock Eflite 50 amp ESC
3. The ESC is rated for 60 amps which might be needed for 4S and larger props

The Aerostar has two leads. The 3 wire lead gets plugged into the throttle channel 1 for the AR636 that came with my Turbo Timber (TT). The second lead gets plugged into channel 5 (gear channel) and switch C is programmed to say Forward thrust for position C0 and 1 and Reverse Thrust for position C2. I use F0,1,2 for low to high rates and expo. The flaps are on channel 6 (Aux 1) and SAFE Self Level is on Aux 2 or channel 6. Using the Digital Switch Setup I have programmed position B0 and 1 as Self Level On and B2 as Off. Switch C0 and C1 are programmed for forward thrust and C2 as reverse thrust. I have not programmed in any Flight Modes but may after a few test and trim flights....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Mar 04, 2019 @ 01:40 PM | 1,538 Views
Weather not too good now so made up some nice to have mods for SST. Based on experience with regular Timber.

For picking up the loaded model Ive installed a retractable handle. It can be used to hoist the float plane in and out of the water/weeds/docking area. Also for hanging from the ceiling. Coat hanger and bends or wheel collars.

The folding wing storage and transport mod has been around since Orville folded his bicycle for Wilbah! Use an old necktie or parachute cord and bungee to keep the wings against and on top of the fuse. Be careful that the anti collision red strobe lense does not dent the trailing edge flaps. The Ace hardware folding step stool can be used to sit butt, stand on or invert SST for feeding Lipos to the belly.
Posted by VicT | Mar 04, 2019 @ 07:36 AM | 1,467 Views
Stock rudder linkage throws are good enough for 180 turn arounds. Nose lights are nice and bright! Here is a short video.
Posted by VicT | Mar 04, 2019 @ 01:20 AM | 1,686 Views
Stock 10BL 800 KV motor with 50 amp ESC and 3S 2200 and 4S 2200 Turnigy Graphene
11/7 3 blade prop
26 A, 256 watts, 45 A, 650 watts
With 10/8 5 blade Eflite Spitfire 1.2 prop
24 A, 235 watts, 50 A, 690 watts
Posted by VicT | Feb 26, 2019 @ 11:05 PM | 1,169 Views
The Turbo Timber comes stock with a Cirrus 3 bladed 11/7 prop. I wanted to see how my 1.5 Timber would like with a 5 bladed 10/8 prop from the Spitfire. I reamed the prop out to fit the prop adapter and with a longer 3 mm bolt fitted the stock 2 bladed spinner to the prop adapter. Ill have to measure the amp draw so not to exceed the ESC limit.
Turbines can have many blades and here is the Pilatus PC21 5 bladed version
Posted by VicT | Feb 23, 2019 @ 08:40 AM | 1,024 Views
Just measured my Cirrus 22T 1300 KV motor (not the TT 800 KV motor) and on an Aerostar 60 amp RVS ESC and CHNL 4S 1500 100C measured 55 amps and 717 watts static. Looking forward to measuring a 13 prop for amps and watts on the TT. I know prop will unload in the air and should be below the 50 amp ESC spec.
Posted by VicT | Feb 20, 2019 @ 04:00 PM | 1,194 Views
Swapping out the Timber RX for the V900 RX solved the problem of wing rocking at full throttle with SAFE on or off. This is because the V900 was designed to go much faster than the Timber. There is proper pitch and roll with SAFE on at full speed and at slow speeds.
I recommend the V900 RX instead of the Timber RX for the AVISTAR ELITE.

Rimfire 46
(Max constant amps 60, max surge 100 amps) max constant watts 1100, max surge watts 1850
With a 13x4 APC 72 amps and 1400 watts measured

Castle Edge 100 amp ESC
Turnigy Graphene 5S 5000 lipos
Posted by VicT | Feb 18, 2019 @ 01:06 AM | 1,302 Views
I purchased a used Heron and installed an AR 636 programmed for the EFlite Spitfire. Ive flown both and so I purchased an open stock AR636 but had Horizon put the program in for me. I installed the RX so the long coaxial antenna would go forward and all the wires would be tucked away aft. I had to install inline reversers on rudder, elevator, and aileron to get proper Self Level servo movement. Later I can program the receiver to reverse those RX channels and remove the inline reversers. The RX is very close to the CG and a 2200 3S Admiral Lipo can fit under the RX if an aft CG is desired. I flew the maiden with the pack forward so the restrainer strap would keep the pack from sliding.

The maiden was at sunset and was only 3 minutes long but it was enough to put down elevator trim in to fly hands
off. Then I turned on Self Level to verify proper correction. Flaps were lowered and confirmed that down elevator trim will be needed to pitch down with Self Level On. She will fly very similar to my Multiplex Cularis with its AR 636 SAFE Select Receiver....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Feb 10, 2019 @ 02:27 AM | 1,693 Views
A top battery door and compartment for any model offers a more convenient method to load and remove your battery pack because you don't have to pick the model up and hold it inverted. With a belly door there is greater risk of the door opening because of G loading from inside loop and landing G forces. I've seen many planes flying around with the battery hanging down being held only by the connectors! Those are the lucky ones as battery separation means a loss of control and crash damage. Battery back up methods are highly recommended but won't be discussed here. Converting the stock belly battery door to a top door can be done with a little effort and time. TheTimber 1.5 and 1.2 meter wingspan designs are discussed here.
The battery door is cut just forward of the Timber windscreen. The thinnest part of the pack gets loaded first at an angle. Once the pack is inside there is plenty of room for fore/aft CG adjustment using foam blocks as spacers. Inside the former battery compartment is the larger 60 amp Turnigy Aerostar RVS (reversible) ESC but the stock ESC will fit as well. A balsa plywood floor/ceiling separated the top battery compartment from the bottom ESC compartment and offers increased structural strength between the fuselage sides and the motor mount area and the landing gear area.

As of Feb 2019 the following pics show the different packs that can be loaded thru the top hatch. Refer to Horizon Hobby Airplane Technical people to find the largest 3 or 4 cell pack that will fit in the stock Timbet belly door. Any of those should fit the thru the modified top door and top battery compartment.
Posted by VicT | Feb 07, 2019 @ 11:56 PM | 2,509 Views
Why hinge the canopy? Even though there are 4 magnets holding the canopy to the fuselage you know that eventually they will lose their strength or the glue will fail and the canopy will depart when you are flying. The hinge and latch are a redundant method of keeping the canopy attached to the fuselage in case one or all magnets fail. Having the canopy attached to the fuselage eliminates the canopy being blown off the table or onto the ground with a gust of wind.

Previously I usedTyvek paper hinges glued with CA as a hinge and they worked fine for about 30 or 40 opening and closings. However my plane holder overstressed the rear hinge and rather than replace the torn hinge I replaced the front and aft paper hinges with Robart hinge pins. The plastic is ribbed and a steel axle is rugged. I used a 1/8 drill to make the holes in the fuselage and canopy and low temp hot glue to keep them from coming out. See pics
Posted by VicT | Jan 31, 2019 @ 09:51 PM | 2,463 Views
The Night Radian fuselage twists left and right and is OK. But if you are used to stiffer foamy motorglider fuselages like the Multiplex or Flyzone designs then here is an alternative to clear or fiberglass tape. Materials needed are 1/64 thick plywood and Loctite Plastic Mender epoxy. Midwest Products sells 1/64 x 12 x 24 via Amazon for $24.61 and can last a long time for strong lightweight reinforcement projects. A 16 long x 25 mm wide piece is all you need for reinforcement. A box cutter slices the fuselage about 11 mm deep at the tail end and 25 mm deep at the thick fuselage end.

Place a straight edge on one side of the fuselage (see pic) and use a box cutter to make multiple cuts or slices deep into the fuselage. You dont have to go all the way through to the other side. Measure the cut to 11 and 25 mm deep. Fit the ply into the slot and push in as far as you can go. Mark the excess sticking out and cut just inside the marked line. This will ensure the ply is not outside the soft foam but insides. Any mark or slot can be filled with lightweight modeling sparkling putty. Since CA needs air to dry and there will be very little air at this joint use Loctite Plastic Epoxy as this will harden without any air to the joint. The epoxy will also give you plenty of time to position the plywood unlike CA that can harden in a few seconds. I weighed the plywood before epoxy and it was 1 gram. I smeared epoxy on both sides of the ply but did not weigh it. I estimate the epoxy at 1 gram for a total of about 2 grams weight. I usually use 3M 20 or 40 X clear packing tape know that this would weigh more if wrapped around the fuselage area. My fuselage had a slight left twist that required right rudder trim. After the plywood was inserted into the sliced fuselage I used the clear tape to pull the fuselage into an opposite twist to counter the warped fuselage.
Posted by VicT | Jan 19, 2019 @ 10:39 PM | 2,627 Views
A handle is convenient for hoisting or carrying a flying boat like the ICON A5 in and out of the water. The handle can act as a place for a hook to hang from a ceiling rod or hook. With grooves in the handle you can orientate your model in a nose down or up attitude depending on your CG and where the hook is placed on the handle. Here is an example using the 52.5 inch ICON A 5. Music wire can be used but in this case normal coat hanger wire is used to support the 53.5 ounce (3.3 pound model). You will need wheel collars, plyers, a round file or Dremmel to make grooves in the handle wire.

This technique was adapted from handles that were made for an Apprentice, Timber and Valiant foamy models.
Posted by VicT | Jan 14, 2019 @ 01:41 AM | 2,983 Views
Thanks to Lonny I have extra floats for my second modification. My land floats work great with stearable front wheels and fixed aft main wheels but I want a set for water ops. The full scale Maule has longer floats in the front and some of our models (mine is heavy and has an aft CG) need more buoyancy aft of the step. So Im experimenting with a plug to extend the stock floats. Here is a 3.25 inch plug extenstion. The step will be in the same location but there will be more floatation buoyancy forward and aft of the step. The plug extension will be from Home Depot and its a magenta/light purple shade. It can be wrapped with white trim Monocote and 3 M 20X packing tape for strength and surface protection. The strut mounting plates will be relocated to the original positions for land/water swap out.

Ill be posting this in the float flyers section for input as well as the wheeled forum....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Jan 13, 2019 @ 09:49 PM | 2,806 Views

The above link will take you to the post that has more info on how to make this handle. It is an adaptation of handles that I have made for the Apprentice, Valiant, and Maule.
Posted by VicT | Jan 08, 2019 @ 07:59 AM | 3,468 Views
I really like the concept of the Radian: simple. However when its time to land you better be willing and able to force her down with tight turns and then nosing her into the grass, ground, sand, concrete, whatever. Hand catching is possible but the only way to slow her down is to get to near stall speed and risk the minor crash damage. Since most of my sailplanes and motorgliders have flaps or flaperons I decided to install my own flaps. Yes I have tried spoilers and they are better than nothing but with about the same time and effort flaps are better in my opinion.

What size? I recently installed some old Radian Pro wings that have flaps and ailerons but very little dihedral. They worked fine with AT6 Texan 636 receiver settings that were loaded in. However I felt that more flap area would be better so I increased the chord width of the flap. I put some yellow tape on the wing for a visual cue before making cut marks. I knew that because of the curved trailing edge I would not be able to have a continuous flap hinge but also knew that keeping the flaps short with a trailing edge connector link would work out OK.
Posted by VicT | Dec 29, 2018 @ 04:05 PM | 2,623 Views
The inside of the NT Radian cockpit is crowded with the electronic devices for the LED system. You can tidy up the cockpit by moving all but the white balance plug outside of the fuselage. Tools required are a small box cutter and CA with accelerator.