VicT's blog View Details
Posted by VicT | Jan 19, 2019 @ 10:39 PM | 1,072 Views
A handle is convenient for hoisting or carrying a flying boat like the ICON A5 in and out of the water. The handle can act as a place for a hook to hang from a ceiling rod or hook. With grooves in the handle you can orientate your model in a nose down or up attitude depending on your CG and where the hook is placed on the handle. Here is an example using the 52.5 inch ICON A 5. Music wire can be used but in this case normal coat hanger wire is used to support the 53.5 ounce (3.3 pound model). You will need wheel collars, plyers, a round file or Dremmel to make grooves in the handle wire.

This technique was adapted from handles that were made for an Apprentice, Timber and Valiant foamy models.
Posted by VicT | Jan 14, 2019 @ 01:41 AM | 1,500 Views
Thanks to Lonny I have extra floats for my second modification. My land floats work great with stearable front wheels and fixed aft main wheels but I want a set for water ops. The full scale Maule has longer floats in the front and some of our models (mine is heavy and has an aft CG) need more buoyancy aft of the step. So Im experimenting with a plug to extend the stock floats. Here is a 3.25 inch plug extenstion. The step will be in the same location but there will be more floatation buoyancy forward and aft of the step. The plug extension will be from Home Depot and its a magenta/light purple shade. It can be wrapped with white trim Monocote and 3 M 20X packing tape for strength and surface protection. The strut mounting plates will be relocated to the original positions for land/water swap out.

Ill be posting this in the float flyers section for input as well as the wheeled forum....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Jan 13, 2019 @ 09:49 PM | 1,382 Views

The above link will take you to the post that has more info on how to make this handle. It is an adaptation of handles that I have made for the Apprentice, Valiant, and Maule.
Posted by VicT | Jan 08, 2019 @ 07:59 AM | 2,038 Views
I really like the concept of the Radian: simple. However when its time to land you better be willing and able to force her down with tight turns and then nosing her into the grass, ground, sand, concrete, whatever. Hand catching is possible but the only way to slow her down is to get to near stall speed and risk the minor crash damage. Since most of my sailplanes and motorgliders have flaps or flaperons I decided to install my own flaps. Yes I have tried spoilers and they are better than nothing but with about the same time and effort flaps are better in my opinion.

What size? I recently installed some old Radian Pro wings that have flaps and ailerons but very little dihedral. They worked fine with AT6 Texan 636 receiver settings that were loaded in. However I felt that more flap area would be better so I increased the chord width of the flap. I put some yellow tape on the wing for a visual cue before making cut marks. I knew that because of the curved trailing edge I would not be able to have a continuous flap hinge but also knew that keeping the flaps short with a trailing edge connector link would work out OK.
Posted by VicT | Dec 29, 2018 @ 04:05 PM | 1,212 Views
The inside of the NT Radian cockpit is crowded with the electronic devices for the LED system. You can tidy up the cockpit by moving all but the white balance plug outside of the fuselage. Tools required are a small box cutter and CA with accelerator.
Posted by VicT | Dec 01, 2018 @ 08:59 AM | 1,346 Views
To make de thermalizer or parachute landing descents properly the pitch Control surfaces need to be designed properly. A large elevator or full flying stab are the most common. For the FT Radian Ive added 3/32 balsa pieces that increase the elevator surface area about 350%. I drilled a clevis hole as close to the hinge line as possible. The servo strains to push full up because of the pushrod system.
If I can find the right up angle with fuse descending level I will refine the design.

First test results showed that there was not enough elevator up deflection for proper level vertical descent. I was able to slow down with power off and porpoising took place but there was forward speed even with a 10 mph headwind. I was expecting a drift downwind but it did not happen. After 20 seconds I stopped the test but found out I had no elevator control because the elevator servo had moved forward in the foam cut out and was free to move around so I had not push back to command up elevator. The model stalled and hit the ground in a nose down attitude. The fuse was seperated at the forward wing mounting area and compression wrinkles were seen. The forward magnet seperated from the clear canopy. At the crash site the rudder and elevator servos still worked but because of the pushrod system there was no elevator control.

Repairs consisted of using Loctite plastic 2 part epoxy to glue the magnet back to the canopy. CA was used to reinforce the magnet to foam mount,...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Nov 28, 2018 @ 11:58 PM | 2,061 Views
The stock Radian motor is a 480B BL Outrunner Motor; 960Kv Reverse Shaft PKZ4716 The shaft is 4 mm OD.
The stock folding prop is a 9.75 x 7.5 black plastic design with a 7mm thick base that uses a pin type axle that is held in place when the 51 mm OD spinner is secured to the backplate with two screws. I am using yellow painters masking tape to keep the pins from following out when the spinner is removed.

Using a new Glacier 1300 3S Lipo static current is 19 amps and 190 watts.
Using a new ZDP 1050 4S 70C static current is 28 amps and 360 watts

This is a 360/190 or 89% increase in power and could be used for short but fast climbs with the stock 30 amp ESC.

An aluminum spinner with matching Graupner CAM blades such as 11x8 would improve the strength and climb performance as well.
Posted by VicT | Nov 27, 2018 @ 01:48 PM | 1,725 Views
The clear plastic firewall is glued to the white fuselage foam with a soft white adhesive. Blue paint covers both and can easily be removed for sanding and applying tape, paper or cloth. Ill be using cloth and CA to reinforce the seam/ fuselage area. Then paint. If paint cracks that will tell me to fix the crack and whatever has caused the crack.
Posted by VicT | Nov 24, 2018 @ 10:04 PM | 1,739 Views
The stock 10.75x8 Valiant prop measures 19 amps and 226 watts using a 2200 3S 45C pack.
A 10x6 Master Airscrew Prop measures 27 amps and 406 watts using a 1500 4S 100 C China Hobby drone pack.

Both fit in the modified top battery door/compartment of the Valiant. This 406/226 = 1.79 or 79% increase in power should increase speed and vertical performance and still be under control the 30 amp ESC limit.
Posted by VicT | Nov 18, 2018 @ 10:04 PM | 1,398 Views
I made 8 launches and landings over an 18 minute span to test 8 different patterns and the effect of the COB light in the cockpit. The COB strobe pattern definitely helps with orientation when flown low and beyond 200 ft. The 3M Dual Lock failed a few times to hold the light on the headrest cockpit bulkhead and I will need to improve this. The interior stock LED lights work OK to light up the cockpit but in flight they would be better used if installed on the leading edges of the wings. So thats another nice to have mod.
Posted by VicT | Nov 12, 2018 @ 05:47 PM | 1,189 Views
Paul did an excellent job pointing out the OLD Radians shortcomings with incidence and weak structure. After fixing those issues he improved performance with removing slop at the servo output arms and flight control horns. I think the new stab and incidence has been solved but the same long servo arms and horns are used with Z bend slop. I have used CA and baking soda to make a rock hard CA joint and will try this on the nylon Night Radian holes. I usually make a drill out of the pushrod wire I am using. That way there is no slop at either hole.
Using clear tape over the wing protects and strengthens the wing with only 1-2 ounces of added weight. The CG of 91.4 suits Pauls Radian and can be a target for anyone that has questions of their Radians CG.

Ive compared both the old and Night wings and except for the fuselage ends and lights they are pretty much equal. The flaperons are the best part of the video. Those that know the value of flaperons will appreciate his flaperon design. Those that do not will say you dont need flaperons.

Paul has 2 inch wide flaperons that are bottom hinged. Most will use simple tape but with Z bend hinges from Tyvek or double sided tape you will have a much stronger hinge. I have a mockup on an old wing panel and will use Robert hinges to see if hinging can be made quicker and easier.
Paul starts the flap about 2 inches away from the fuselage and the flaperon is 23 inches long. He says that 18...Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Nov 12, 2018 @ 12:23 AM | 1,458 Views
With most of my models I can taxi around and if needed go to System Setup on my DX9 and look at something or adjust a setting. RF is disabled and when I do this one of my models starts up the motor at low throttle. Of course I go back to transmitting and the motor stops turning. I then disconnect the drive battery and resume my System Setup work then go back to powering up the ESC and receiver. I bind all of my models with the throttle off and with loss of signal the motor stays off. Not sure if its an anomaly or faulty ESC. An arming switch, or plug would be nice to have in or on the model but most do not use it. Ive purchased and used the Deans Safety Plug but want to know the source of the problem. Any one have some ideas?
Posted by VicT | Nov 10, 2018 @ 05:35 PM | 1,791 Views
I flew the old Radian in places that required confined space landings and steep approach angles. I made 12 inch long flaps and they worked but I wanted more flap area to get more lift and drag. I experimented with a segmented flap design so that the curved trailing edge could use hinges but not bind when flaps were deployed. I found a plastic tube and music wire that acts as a trailing edge coupler. Now the majority of the Radian trailing edge can be used for a flap or flaperon. Servos can be imbedded into the fuselage sides or into the wing panels. Since the FT Radian requires the light plugs be connected I think a 4 pin plug could support the positive and negative power requirements of the lights and servo. The fourth pin would be for the flaperon signal wire. Deans makes a small black or red 4 pin connector that would require soldering. Here are some pics of the flaps and a removable wing tip for a 62 inch wingspan sport wing.

I will post build pics when I start the project....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Nov 10, 2018 @ 04:34 PM | 1,707 Views
I lost the two wing bolts and had to purchase some from ACE hardware. I used my Dremel to remove the threads near the Philips head so I could tie a loop of fishing line around it. I can now tighten the bolt and when I remove the bold it is held to the wing with a hole and some CA glue. See Pics
Posted by VicT | Nov 06, 2018 @ 08:06 PM | 1,857 Views
On the third flight the right wheel and axle departed inflight. I was able to find the wheel but the axle was lost in the tall grass. With 3 fully charged 3200 3S packs ready to fly I removed the remaining wheel and used 20X tape over the wheel pant opening. Our club field had short grass so sliding takeoffs and landings were made without incident. The forward mounted main landing Gear and the slightly lower CG prevented nose overs. Full up elevator and flaps helped on early lift offs. I used to use wheel pants for inside gym floor operations. The sliding was fun to do.

On hard surface runways removing the wheels and using plastic from milk bottles could be a better alternative to wheels. Sometimes wheels will trip and cause the model to end up inverted on the runway. Skis or wheel pant devices that allow sliding may offer better ground operations...depending on the surface. On grass the wheel pants allowed shorter ground roll outs and may help out in precision landings in confined space operations.
Posted by VicT | Nov 05, 2018 @ 01:51 PM | 1,727 Views
I damaged a FMS servo when the nose wheel fairing interfered with my foam plane holder. I heard it buzzing and when I removed the plane the servo made noises but did not move the rudder or nose steering. I wanted to fly soon so I removed the FMS servo and replaced it with an ES08 MD2 12 gram metal gear one. The stock servo arm did not fit the new EMax servo so I used one of the arms that were included. The small arm included was too small so I used the largest arm in the box. The holes for the pushrod clamps had to be drilled out and I had to open up the servo mount in order to clear the CF tube stiffener. I used a Dremel with wire drills to do this work.

The taxi tests are very impressive with a much tighter turining radius. This will help in making 180 degree turns to avoid going off the pavement or when avoiding obstacles. I increased the expo to 60 percent to help with small corrections during takeoff and landing rollout.

I wanted to inform Horizon of my problem and when I talked to Sean at technical he said he would send me a 330 reverse servo to my address with no charge. Now thats service! I will use this servo to replace the EMax servo if and when it fails. This model is popular where I fly and others may need a servo replaced. See pics and this video.
Posted by VicT | Oct 25, 2018 @ 03:34 PM | 1,810 Views
Here are the steps and pics showing you how I installed the prop bands. You dont have to have them but they help reduce drag and when you start up there is no single blade hanging low to cause an imbalance....Continue Reading
Posted by VicT | Oct 25, 2018 @ 03:24 PM | 1,595 Views
I like to have the blades folded up against the fuselage to reduce drag and to minimize start up imbalance loads on the prop shaft and motor. Airspeed will not do this for all the times but the bands will.

The FT prop shaft has a flat that should be moved forward using a file or Dremel tool. Then two bands are put behind the adaptor and the blades and yoke is mounted. See the video for how it works. In the multiple start ups and folding the blades fold up against the fuselage.

FT Radian gets Goody Bands (0 min 14 sec)