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Posted by navigator2011 | Aug 11, 2020 @ 01:17 PM | 6,248 Views
Just a quick shout-out to all the Fusion 180 flyers out there to recommend installing protectors onto your LIPO balance leads. The protectors simplify unplugging the balance leads after charging without feeling like the wires are getting ripped loose from the connector.

Securing LIPO Balance Lead Under Fusion 180 Canopy (1 min 53 sec)


There are a wide variety of sites that sell these protectors. Following is a link to a vendor I went with:

Lipo-Balance-Charging-Port-Protector-Saver

Of course, the protectors are bulky and interfere with installing the canopy onto the heli! As a solution, I zip-tied a small loop of elastic string onto the front of the frame so that I can tuck-in the protector before putting on the canopy. The elastic loop really works well, it doesn't look ridiculous on the heli, and it doesn't get in the way of anything else under the canopy.

I haven't yet tried it, but I bet this will also work well with the Blade 150S, the 180CFX, as well as the Trio 180CFX.
Posted by navigator2011 | Jul 27, 2020 @ 08:19 PM | 7,953 Views
Hey guys, just a quick note to say that if you're tired of trying to fit the stock canopy on your Blade 150S, consider using a 180cfx canopy. The 180cfx canopy goes right on without any modifications needed. As an added benefit, the orange color is a lot easier to see against the treeline!

Blade 150S with a 180cfx canopy (0 min 42 sec)


After pulling the trigger on two brand new 180cfx canopies, I was very happy to discover that the orange canopies fit easily without requiring any modification to the canopy holes. So, from now on I'll be using orange 180cfx canopies and reserving the stock 150S canopies just for a backup.
Posted by navigator2011 | Jun 30, 2020 @ 05:50 PM | 7,600 Views
Hey guys, I had a stock elevator servo die on me, leading to an epic crash. I assume all my recent crashes killed the servo. It's just the electronic part of the servo that's bad, the gears feel fine. I will definitely hang on to the servo gears for future use!

It appears that replacement stock servos aren't going to be available until July 20th, at the soonest? Thus, I can either shelve the heli or pull a servo off my Blade 150S. Not liking either of these choices, I decided to install some DS-895-hv cyclic servos from a crashed Oxy2.

After putting a couple dozen packs through the Fusion 180, I think the Lynx DS-895-hv cyclic servos are a great alternative to the stock servos. It is worth mentioning, however, the Lynx servos seem to have a greater throw than the stock servos. I did observe some binding of the grip links when moving the swash plate to extreme positions during the installation. This didn't seem to affect flight at all, but it may be necessary to reduce the travel of the Lynx servos.

The Lynx servos also seem to affect the required length of the servo links. That is, the servo arms of the Lynx servos seem to be a bit closer to the swash plate. Since I already shortened the servo links when I installed a 180 CFX rotor head, I didn't want to shorten the servo links any more. So I relied upon electronically adjusting the servo neutral positions to center the swash plate on the main shaft. I may do a mechanical adjustment later on, though.

It...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Jun 23, 2020 @ 07:12 PM | 5,108 Views
Anyone that owns a Blade Fusion 180 can attest to the fact that replacement DFC follower arms are impossible to find, even a year after the Fusion 180 was first introduced! So if we lose a DFC follower arm, what are we to do? One solution put forth by Horizon Hobby is to just pick up a Trio 180 CFX follower arm set. Well, the Trio arms come in sets of three arms, so I guess one could pick up two sets to get three pairs of arms for the Fusion 180.

Another solution is to install a conventional 180 CFX FBL rotor head onto the Fusion 180. I know many people love DFC rotor head systems, but I prefer conventional FBL systems on my helicopters. I decided to give the conventional FBL system a go after finding my DFC follower arms getting a bit difficult to turn after several crashes.

The first step was to figure out which parts to buy and to make sure they are compatible with the Fusion 180. Although the 180 CFX has been discontinued, it is fortunate that the conventional FBL system now finds a home on the Blade 150S. Also, the Fusion 180 and the 150S both include the original swash plate and feathering shaft from the 180 CFX! At this point, I was pretty sure the FBL system would work on the Fusion 180. Of course, it remained to be determined whether the FBL would simply bolt onto the Fusion 180. To get started, I ordered the following list of parts:
Essential Parts:
...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Apr 26, 2020 @ 03:06 PM | 8,747 Views
For a while, I've been using a battery cable adapter to run Align 2s lipos from my Align Trex 150X in my mCPX BL2. I have a lot of Align packs, and I didn't want to pull the trigger another bunch of packs for this helicopter. I'm not a fan of storing a lot of battery packs throughout the year, and so I like being able to use the same battery packs in different helicopters.

The battery cable adapter has worked well, but as I have ramped up the amount of flights on the mCPX BL2 the cable adapter has increasingly felt a bit bulky. I've always appreciated the battery tray on the Trex 150X--there are no wires to get in the way, just plug the battery pack right into the tray. The Align 2s battery packs fit so well in the battery tray of the mCPX BL2 that I decided to install a compatible plug into the battery tray and get rid of the battery adapter cable altogether.

The biggest part of this modification involves mounting a JST-XH 2.50mm (1x3) straight plugs onto the battery tray of the mCPX BL2. I obtained a package of JST-XH 2.50mm (1x3) straight plugs from Hansen Hobbies, Inc. With the tools I had on hand, the only way I could think of doing this is by melting the plug pins through the deepest part of the battery tray. I installed a plug onto an old lipo, loaded the lipo into the battery tray and then pressed the plug against the deep end of the battery tray. Next, I used a soldering iron to heat the plug pins until they pushed into the plastic of the battery tray.
...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Mar 04, 2020 @ 10:32 PM | 11,070 Views
In a previous blog about my mCPX BL2, I ended by mentioning that I was going to install a MicroHeli frame, MH-MBL2005. Unfortunately, just a few grass hits was enough to cause all kinds of damage to my mCPX BL2. As to be expected, the usual weak spots include the canopy posts and the boom mount, as well as the boom itself. Once the boom splits and gets loose in the frame, the boom can fall off the heli during a flight! I discovered this firsthand upon wrapping the tail motor wires around the main shaft.

One thing that really is upsetting about the stock frame is that the canopy posts break so easily. I actually had a canopy post fall off while I was removing the servos. I have never experienced more fragile plastic! And, many other people have reported the tips of the canopy posts just shearing off, leaving the canopy free to flop around unattached. I like that the MicroHeli frame includes carbon fiber canopy posts. There's just no way the carbon fiber posts are going to break without putting up a fight!

Unlike the fragile stock frame, the MicroHeli frame includes carbon fiber frame sides that screw onto metal bearing blocks. The boom mount is also metal and includes a screw to tighten the boom mount onto the boom. Coupled with a solid tail boom, this frame should be able to handle a few grass hits with ease. Probably won't be long before I know for sure!

Assembling the MicroHeli frame is similar to any other helicopter frame. The screws must be thread-...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Feb 22, 2020 @ 06:28 PM | 6,766 Views
For a long time, I've been waiting for Horizon Hobby to come out with an updated mCPX BL. It's finally here! Horizon Hobby has revived their super successful mCPX BL in the form of an mCPX BL2, which now includes Safe-Z mode and Safe mode. Some people have reported having some trouble setting up the Safe-Z mode and the Safe mode on this helicopter and encountering glitches during flight. I'm not sure whether it makes any difference, but I did avoid the Safe modes and put everything into 3D mode. To get 3D mode all the time, I assigned my DX9's channel 5 to a 3-way switch and then put all the switch values to -100. Aside from going full 3D, I set up my DX9 by the book, and my mCPX BL2 flies just fine. It's unclear to me whether suppressing the Safe modes has prevented the glitching others have seen.

I've had a few months to become accustomed with this model. So far, I've been using my mCPX BL2 primarily as a backup for my Align Trex 150X since they can use the same batteries. For a long time, I've been posting that I like my Trex 150X more than my mCPX BL2. But I have to admit, I've been really enjoying flying my mCPX BL2. Even though the Trex 150X is built like a bigger helicopter, this mCPX BL2 is really growing on me!

Although there are batteries available for the mCPX BL2, I am using my old Align 300 mAh packs from my 150X. They're a perfect fit in the battery tray and they relieved me from having to buy a bunch of new packs. I put a couple of small...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Oct 23, 2019 @ 02:04 PM | 8,274 Views
One of the great downsides to owning a Blade Nano S2 are the dampeners that sit on the lower canopy posts and support the receiver board. The canopy posts are prone to breaking in crashes; even minor crashes. Once a lower canopy post breaks off the frame, the board is no longer effectively supported and can wiggle around inside the canopy. This can make the Nano S2 quite a bit more challenging to fly as it flops around in the air! And, once two canopy posts are broken, you can forget about flying the Nano S2 until a new frame is installed. Many times, I've been able to extend the flying life of my Nano S2 by manipulating a paperclip to resemble missing canopy posts, but it's a serious pain!

Another problem is that the dampeners tend to tear loose from the board, owing to their super pliable nature. Once again, this leaves the board free to flop around unsupported inside the canopy. It's not that replacing a dampener isn't easy; it is easy, just slide a new dampener onto the canopy post and coax the rubber through the hole in the board. Done! The problem is Horizon Hobby only sells new dampeners with a replacement board, for $70 before tax, shipping and handling! I hope this policy changes soon. There's no way I'm going to buy a new board to simply replace a torn piece of rubber.

In a previous write-up, I talked about using sewing thread to fasten a torn dampener to the board. Sure, that works, but not all that well. The sewing approach tends to push the...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Oct 06, 2019 @ 08:58 PM | 5,894 Views
As many will attest, nano-sized helicopters are excellent teachers. Crashing anything larger can be a frightful prospect, chiefly due to the cost of parts and the time of repairs. One small mishap can end a flying session and leave one with a bunch of fully charged packs to discharge. But not with the nanos -- they just bounce off the lawn over and over again! This level of durability leaves one free to experiment, and thus can greatly improve learning new moves that would otherwise be out of reach.

As with any helicopter, there are some parts that are particularly susceptible to damage. In the case of the Blade Nano S2, the board dampeners can be a particular source of frustration. It's not that the dampeners are particularly prone to being damaged, but rather once they are damaged, the only way to get new dampeners is by purchasing a completely new board! But this makes replacing a simple piece of rubber a nearly $70 endeavor -- on a helicopter that retails for $100! Obviously, Horizon Hobby should be offering the dampeners separately for a much more reasonable price. So, nope, I'm not paying that price when the receiver board in my Nano S2 is perfectly fine.

The other day I had a particularly nasty crash, on concrete, that put my Nano S2 under my parked car! While I was pleased that my Nano S2 was still flyable, I was concerned that, once back in air, the helicopter was flopping all over the place. Back at my bench, I pulled off the canopy and found one...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | May 20, 2019 @ 08:03 PM | 11,988 Views
After flying my Blade Nano S2 enough to wear down the performance of the stock, brushed motor, I decided to install Horizon Hobby's brushless upgrade, BLH3325, into the S2. I chose to basically copy the install posted by HF member, Chris1683 in the HF thread, Ideas about brushless upgrade, because, well, it seems like the best way.

As many nano-enthusiasts will attest, keeping the weight of the nano as low as possible is an important factor. The weight of the nano can affect everything from tail hold to flight time, as well as climb-out and flipping performance! Before the installation, I weighed the S2 without a battery. The scale waffled between 26g and 27g, but seemed to settle on 26g, as shown in Fig. 1. I decided to pull the HH brushless motor and ESC from my Nano CPS since I knew that they would add only about 2g, overall.

One key to keeping the weight of the brushless upgrade on the low side is getting rid of the connectors that come with the upgrade and shortening the wires as much as possible. Of course this makes soldering even more difficult, and it's not easy for me to see such small solder points. I almost felt like I was soldering blind!

As shown in Fig. 2, I removed the brushless ESC from its shrink-wrap and then soldered on new, slightly thicker wires. The only decent place to mount the ESC is on front of the receiver board, and the stock wires were getting in the way. So I removed the stock wires and soldered the thicker wires to the...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Dec 13, 2018 @ 08:32 PM | 18,711 Views
I absolutely love my Trex 150X for flying around my front yard, practicing maneuvers. I've been putting 6-7 packs through the 150X every morning for nearly a couple years, now, and I love it! Perfect size for my front yard, and super quiet too! All I really hear is the blades ripping through the air. There's a lot of negativity about this heli, so I thought I'd post about my positive experience with my 150X and a few tips that may be helpful.

Although I have a few bigger helicopters, I like to use micro helicopters to migrate new skills from my simulator to the real world. Like many pilots, I have a mental barrier to trying something completely new with a larger, more expensive helicopter. And then there's the intimidation factor--it's enough to just freeze my hands! My solution to this gestalt was to buy a Blade Nano CPS and then convince myself that it's disposable and thus crash-able.

I made a lot of progress flipping and flying inverted with the Nano CPS, but I became increasingly frustrated with the behavior of the brushed motors, the twitches, and the tail blow-outs. I have arrived at a skill level where more crashes are caused by the helicopter's anemic power and tail authority than my dumb thumbs. So I pulled the trigger on the Trex 150X.

The 150X's performance is so much better than the Nano CPS, and also my Blade mCPS, particularly in the tail area. Continual tail blow-outs had been just killing my Blade helis! The 150X, on the other hand, has...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | May 27, 2018 @ 01:30 PM | 20,301 Views
After having so much fun with my brushless-upgraded Blade Nano CPS, I decided to pick up a Blade mCPS. It seemed that the mCPS is a bit better supported by Horizon Hobby, or at least most of the parts listed on their site aren't discontinued like with the Nano CPS. Being just a bit bigger than the Blade Nano CPS, the mCPS seems better built and more refined than the Blade Nano CPS. Upon flying the mCPS, however, I soon discovered the stock brushed motor in the mCPS is pathetically weak, maybe even weaker than the Nano CPS! I could actually hear the brushed motor losing power throughout each pack I flew, and the mCPS had nearly zero climb-out towards the end of the pack. There have been many discussions in the forums about potential causes of the mCPS's anemic power output, but I immediately knew that the mCPS desperately needs a brushless motor upgrade!

Unlike in the case of the Nano CPS, Horizon Hobby still offers a plug-n-play brushless upgrade for the mCPS. There is a wide variety of different approaches to installing a brushless motor into the mCPS, and many pilots have posted builds using various powerful brushless motors and ESCs. The easiest way, however, is to just go with Horizon Hobby's brushless motor, BLH5104, and brushless ESC, BLH5105, as shown in Fig. 2. Unfortunately, this brushless motor and ESC add about $50 plus shipping to the cost of the mCPS, pushing the total for the BNF version close to $190! Since I really wanted this compact helicopter...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Jan 11, 2018 @ 07:19 PM | 20,784 Views
In a previous write-up, I discussed installing a brushless motor into a Blade Nano CPS. I realize that many owners are satisfied with the stock brushed motor, but mine was incredibly weak and would start bogging in as little as one minute into a flight. Now, with the brushless motor installed, this little Nano CPS has plenty of power for a helicopter of this size, and noticeable motor bogging is a thing of the past.

With the power problem solved, it was then time to put this helicopter into practice. The first step was to get some bigger battery packs. It had become clear that the more powerful brushless motor was making quick business of gobbling through the stock packs. To extend my flight times, I picked up six Glacier 220mAh 45C battery packs from Buddy RC for $2.99 a piece. These packs fit perfectly in the battery tray without weighing down the Nano, and they give me solid flight times of 3:00 without any sign of decreased motor performance. I've been flying these packs daily for about two months, and there's no sign of puffing, the packs are always cool after flying, and the cell voltage always settles to around 3.84V. Nice!

I typically like to fly six packs during a flying session, and never less than three packs if I'm crunched for time. There was simply no way I was going to be charging this many packs with the stock USB charger that comes included with the Blade Nano CPS. I had thought about picking up a parallel charging board, but I've had good...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Nov 26, 2017 @ 09:12 PM | 25,038 Views
Lately, I have been trying some new moves with my two 180CFXs, and I've plowed them into the grass a few times. Admittedly, I'm not very quick with throttle hold, but even still it seemed like a lot of parts got damaged in each crash. So, I thought, it would be nice to have a small helicopter that could bounce off the lawn and still keep flying.

Hoping to spare my 180s some grief, I pulled the trigger on a used Blade Nano CPS. As advertised, the nCPS does actually bounce off the lawn and keep flying. But many times it bounces off the lawn just because its brushed motor is so anemic. Searching online, it didn't take long to discover that many people were unhappy with the brushed motor in the nCPS. Some pilots have reported installing a brushless motor upgrade into the nCPS with positive results. It seems there's a brushless motor upgrade BLH3325 for the discontinued nCPX, but not for the currently available nCPS. With decent soldering skills, however, the BLH3325 upgrade is reported to work well with the nCPS.

I managed to source the BLH3325 upgrade for a relatively low price on eBay. As shown in Figs. 1-2, the BLH3325 upgrade includes simple instructions, and has all the plugs necessary to be easily installed into the nCPX. I decided to leave the plugs installed until I successfully tested that everything was working correctly.

The first order of business was to remove the stock, brushed motor and then install the brushless motor. The brushed motor seems...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Oct 17, 2017 @ 08:29 PM | 20,545 Views
There can be no doubt that the Blade 180CFX is a bit less discussed since the Oxy2 helicopter came on the scene. I have an Oxy2, and I love it, but I still fly my 180CFXs because they fit so well in my front driveway. Although the Oxy2 is a much more stable, precise, and high-performance helicopter, the Oxy2 can get away or get too close much more quickly than the 180CFX. I think I will eventually switch all the way over to flying Oxy2s, but not yet--I still love the smaller size of the 180CFX.

One thing that always bothered me, however, is that I didn't have complete control over the way the 180CFX flies. I purchased my 180CFXs used, and so I never registered with Horizon Hobby, nor did I care to purchase extra cables just to update the 180's AR6335 firmware. And then, there was the notorious tail behavior--sometimes twitchy, or wagging, or just slushy. Sure, a lot of this tail behavior could be improved by updating the Blade FBL firmware, as well as upgrading to a Spektrum H3060 tail servo. Even then, however, the Blade FBL firmware offers limited control over the 180CFX's behavior.

I had my first experience with an MSH µBrain2 during building the Oxy2. A great feature of MSH receivers is that they offer free software that helps with imputing all the settings that control the helicopter's flight behavior. MSH even offers a Bluetooth Module that can connect the receiver with a phone! At first, the software seemed a bit daunting, if only because it provides...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | May 02, 2017 @ 02:09 PM | 24,447 Views
As many owners of the Blade 180CFX will attest, the stock tail servo tends to be fragile. For some time, I have suspected that my stock tail servo is about to give up the ghost. I have had a Spektrum H3060 servo sitting on a shelf, awaiting installation, but I didn't want to waste a perfectly working stock tail servo, and so I've been flying the stocker without incident, but waiting for it to show some sign of imminent disaster.

Eventually, one morning, I spooled up and the tail started this weird, intermittent popping or twitching behavior, always about 1-2 cm in the clockwise direction. Sort of like it's smooth, then twitch, smooth, then twitch-twitch-smooth, and so on. The twitching would tend to worsen while I was flying. Finally, I thought, it was time to replace the stock tail servo.

There is more than one technique for installing the H3060 tail servo into the 180CFX. One technique is to carefully grind the servo case and portions of the 180’s boom support until the servo fits snugly into the 180's tail servo mount. A second technique is to install a Lynx tail servo adapter that is specifically designed to be used with the 180CFX and the H3060 tail servo. I chose the latter technique as I couldn't guarantee that I wouldn't grind the servo case without killing the servo.

I am impressed with the Lynx servo adapter--at first, I didn't think it would enable the H3060 to fit without grinding the servo case at least a little bit. Much to my surprise, the...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Mar 09, 2017 @ 07:34 PM | 23,674 Views
I really do enjoy flying my Blade 180CFX. As you may have detected, based on my last blog about the 180CFX, it was love at first flight. So much so that I decided to purchase a second 180CFX--I just like to have two of the same helicopter. Having two or more of the same "micro" is really good for traveling, vacation flying, and the like. I find it difficult to fix things on the road, and having two of the same micro helicopter is convenient since they are so small, the parts and batteries are compatible, and having two can keep me in the game in the event of unforeseen circumstances.

The 180CFX is small and convenient for traveling, but I needed a good case to carry both helicopters on trips. I had purchased the Blade 180CFX Carrying Case, but it holds only one helicopter. But then I had an idea--with all the extra space they put into the case, why not just put two 180s in there? After eyeballing and measuring things, I determined that the interior dimensions of the Blade 180CFX Carrying Case are roughly 1-1/2 inches deep x 9-1/2 inches wide x 17 inches long, and that both 180CFXs could be comfortably stuffed into such a volume.

I chose to purchase a custom-cut slab of charcoal foam from The Foam Factory. A custom slab of foam that would fit the Blade 180CFX Carrying Case cost a little over $10. Ordering was super easy, just enter the desired dimensions of the foam, add the resulting custom-cut foam to my Cart, and then check out. A few days later, I...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Nov 03, 2016 @ 04:15 PM | 23,382 Views
As many will attest, the Align Trex 250 doesn't have a lot of room for mounting a flybarless receiver. It seems that the frame sides are just slightly too narrow for many of the most popular FBL receivers on the market to fit within the frame.

Many 250 owners have resorted to cutting out portions of the frame sides to allow the receiver to fit onto the bottom plate, between the frame sides. Some prefer to de-case the receiver and then mount the electronics directly into the frame. Others, myself included, have accepted mounting the receiver onto the outside of one of the frame sides. Side-mounting the receiver does work, but it leaves the helicopter imbalanced and exposes the receiver to relatively greater potential crash damage.

So, when it came time to do some work on one of my older 250s, a four-year-old CopterX 250, I took the opportunity to attempt installing a Spektrum AR7200BX receiver inside the frame. This called for widening the lower frame ever so slightly. Widening the frame would require creating spacers between the frame sides and the bottom plate, the motor mount, and the belt drive-gear box. The spacers would have to be thick enough to provide clearance between the AR7200BX and the frame sides, but not so thick as to require longer frame screws.

I had thought about using matchbook paper for the spacers, but then I worried the paper might not maintain a uniform thickness when tightened into the frame. Next, I thought about creating the spacers...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Jul 12, 2016 @ 05:47 PM | 24,285 Views
I thought I would check in and let everyone know what I've been doing since my blog about the Trex 250 DFC. Oh, speaking of that 250, I had quite a time working out all the bugs that cropped up after getting the helicopter all put together. I won't get into all the gory details about troubleshooting and repairing the 250, but let's just say that after replacing a failed speed controller and a defective cyclic servo, repairing all the resulting mechanical damage, and installing an MKS DS95i tail servo, the Trex 250 DFC today flies wonderfully. I fly that 250 every day. Well, until recently, that is.

After having flown a Walkera V120D02s for a couple of years, I had become burned out with fussing over microscopic parts, a lack of electronics options, and the instability and quirks associated with micro-sized helicopters. I had sworn off micro-sized helicopters and resolved that the 250 would be my smallest size class and my Trex 450 Pro would become my daily helicopter. As many will agree, a 450 is definitely more stable in the air and replacement parts are sold nearly everywhere.

Despite the stability of the 450, however, I eventually learned that the size of one's flying area is just as important of a consideration as the size and type of helicopter one chooses. Although the 450 is relatively more stable and easy to learn to fly with, the intimidation factor is greater, too. Certainly, with a large field to fly in, one probably is better off going with a 450 or...Continue Reading
Posted by navigator2011 | Dec 10, 2015 @ 05:32 PM | 27,739 Views
The Align Trex 250 doesn't seem to get much mention nowadays. Even so, I still rather enjoy the 250 size helicopters, and they are the size helicopter I fly most--they are a bit less intimidating than larger helicopters, have plenty of performance for me to grow into, and they are suitable for flying in my driveway. I just finished building a new Trex 250 DFC that came with a torque tube (TT) tail, and thought I'd share it with the community.

As many will agree, the Trex 250 can be a chore to build and work on, and this particular build was no exception. Straight away, I ran into trouble getting the main shaft to rotate freely with the main gear tightened fully onto the main shaft. It seemed that the main bearings were positioned just a bit too far apart to allow me to fully tighten the main shaft without binding the one-way bearing. In an attempt to solve this problem, I found that the main bearing holders included in the kit came with metal sleeves, but the metal sleeves were omitted from the replacement holders I had purchased online. I found that using one of each type of main bearing holder allowed free rotation of the main shaft and no binding of the one-way bearing with the main gear fully tightened onto the main shaft. Normally, I don't like to mix and match different parts, but mixing these main bearing holders provided a nearly perfect, no-slop solution that eliminated the binding in the one-way bearing.

Next, I ran into difficulties getting the TT...Continue Reading