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Posted by NobatteryNopower | Nov 21, 2020 @ 11:48 AM | 3,352 Views
I've been slowly working towards a maiden with the balsa Super Alula FV plane. I've build a drop-pod like camera structure to mount underneath the wing. On the other side of the fuselage I placed the VTX with the heat sink on the underside. The RHCP antenna is removable for transportation.

To do:
- Cover the bottom of the wings with Hobbyking clear covering.
- Remove some covering so glueing the fuselage to the wing won't be a problem.
- Remove some covering so glueing the camera pod to the underside of the wing won't be a problem
- Mount the flightcontroller
- Mount the TBS nano receiver + antenna
- Make balsa top fuselage covers
- Mount horns & clevises
- Maybe paint the fuselage and tail section white so moisture stays out of the balsa parts.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Nov 09, 2020 @ 02:48 AM | 6,090 Views
I've bolted three ZMR250 bottom plates together with the arms of a long forgotten RCTimer Aliencopter Bee quad frame to end up with a 7" frame. 8" props would fit as well.

A short test flight indoors showed all systems operational.

Matek F722 + FCHUB Vtx
Racerstar SPROG X 35A BLHeli_s Dshot600 ESC's
Racerstar AirA 2508 KV1200
7 inch props. HQProp I believe
Runcam camera
SJcam 5000X - lets see if this can hold up well enough.
Aomway antenna for setting up Vtx, will be replaced for flight.

Did a test flight yesterday in Angle-mode ... because I left my goggles at home and boy do I suck flying LOS. I'll admit, I've lost my mojo.

The SJCam5000X shows promise though. Didn't see jello/vibrations in either 1080/60fps nor 4K*/24fps with either EIS** on or off.

** Electronic Image Stabilisation

*Edit* Last night thought it would be a good idea to update the firmware of the flightcontroller. I did remember that I've mounted the FC upside down due to wiring challenges so I flipped the roll-axis 180 in BF. However... I forgot you have to remap the motors as well. Woke up early today, saw that it was foggy & gorgeous outside and grabbed my gear.

So what should have been a cinematic flight over foggy fields with a rising sun, became a flip-fest of biblical proportions.

Motor Switch (0 min 39 sec)

A day later:

Charged everything the night before for a new chance at an epic video. A LOT less fog unfortunately, compared to yesterday but still eager to test this frame. Long story short, my FPV cam fogged up and had to do a semi-emergency landing.

The SJCAM5000X however... held up perfectly. Much better than I expected. My Telemetry / Rssi was all over the place. I don't have that much experience with Crossfire or telemetry yet. I'll have to dig in more.

This flight: 1080p/60fps:
SJCam5000Elite FPV test-1 (0 min 38 sec)

This flight: 1080p/60fps slowed down in postprocessing to 30fps:
SJCam5000Elite 60fps to 30fps Test-2 (1 min 16 sec)

Posted by NobatteryNopower | Oct 26, 2020 @ 02:03 AM | 5,061 Views
I never thought using superglue / CA for building a balsa plane would speed up the building process in an ungodly manner. This also applies for when you've sanded away too much and quickly have to add balsa strips to correct mistakes

I've added an extra 1.5mm carbon rod for more stiffness. Also, ... I'm hitting a wall here. The CG is becoming a problem as I guesstimated correctly While I kept 98% of the proportions according to plan, the motor up front and the added balsa in the fuselage for strength, tips the balance point heavily towards nose heavy when dry fitting a battery in the space originally planned. I have to do some free style scratch building to solve this without adding too much useless weight in the back. Or design an altered fuselage with a shorter nose. *Edit* OR trying to stuff most of the FPV gear in the back / on the tail
**Edit** Nope, i shortened the fuselage with a good two inches. It will work but space for gear is limited... Back to the drawing board. Either design a new, longer tail section or a complete new fuselage and change the looks completely.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Oct 22, 2020 @ 04:01 AM | 2,570 Views
A follow up from this previous blog entry, I've started building the platform which will be my test bed for Inav. A Super Alula made of balsa.

Many years ago I found this blog online and decided that it was one of the most beautiful airplanes ever made imo.

So I decided to build my own. I found a plan that looks a bit like one here: (I'll attach the plan to this post). Enlarged it with the print-to-tile function of Adobe and ended up with 16 A3 sheets taped together.

I've started with strengthening the fuselage and cutting the ribs. How everything will balance out on the CG with all FPV-gear loaded is a complete mystery for now. Its a DLG converted to electric & FPV, so additional strengthening will be needed without adding too much weight.

Motor: 1150KV with a 9x5 prop
ESC: Afro 20A
Battery: to be tested. Somewhere between 4S/1500 3S/2200 or 3S/1300.
Main spar is a 8mm carbon tube 114.5cm / 45 inches long.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Oct 16, 2020 @ 10:59 AM | 2,246 Views
First time flying for real instead of test runs in the back yard.
K-2SO Speeder | Star Wars (3 min 18 sec)

Posted by NobatteryNopower | Oct 07, 2020 @ 01:05 PM | 1,845 Views
After moving house and having to pack everything up & stow away for a while, I finally got time to connect everything and go for a test drive. I still have to tidy up all wiring but for now, all systems operational, including head tracking and the EzUhf repeater
Not visible but the 'ultra bright' headlights are candles in the dark. NO visibility whatsoever.
Vroooooom (3 min 30 sec)

Posted by NobatteryNopower | Sep 10, 2020 @ 01:17 AM | 1,988 Views
About the same time this thread appeared, i ordered this Wing FC-10 DOF Flightcontroller INAV OSD Accelerometer with internal barometer and compass from Aliexpress as a learning tool. A Beitan-220 will be my GPS.

This thread is about my findings & learning curve. It'll be updated when i make progress... or not.

When connected to a Windows-computer it identifies as a Furious F-35 Lightning flightcontroller.. Google that and you'll find a flight controller that doesn't look like the Wing FC-10 at all. But perhaps this info is of later use. Here's the Manual for the F-35:

- It only provides 5volts to the Rx when connected to a battery. I'll use a separate 5v supply for the servo's.
- Right now, I only have Ch1-Ch4 (AETR), but none after that. Not sure if CRSF or Inav setting/issue. *SOLVED* > I didn't specify the channels/switches correctly on my Radio when setting up a new Rx
- I want more travel of the control surfaces when the stabilization is OFF > *SOLVED*, increase FF in PID-tuning tab
- I'm not quite sure yet how to switch between Manual-mode and Angle/Horizon. It looks like Manual-mode is Acro-Mode with my config. > *SOLVED*, Manual is another Mode lower on the Mode-list. Now I have MAN-HOR-ANGLE on a 3-position switch.
- Check PASSTRU-mode. see list uploaded

A list with very useful tips from here:

First concept to understand is that iNav cannot...Continue Reading
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Sep 01, 2020 @ 01:39 AM | 5,307 Views
Memo to myself: IF you happen to have set the region to EU, the TBS Micro Crossfire TX locks itself to 25mw.

To undo this: Connect the USB-c cable to the module, click the button approx. 10 times. Disconnect usb, reconnect USB. Now, you can use TBS Agent to set the Region again.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | May 30, 2020 @ 07:35 AM | 5,576 Views
Working on a stand for my Star Wars K-2SO - speeder.

Wrapped the bottom of the speeder in cling film/Saran Wrap to prevent the putty from sticking. Then pressed exhaust repair putty against the bottom to get an impression of the bottom plate of the speeder, preventing it from sliding of when on display.

Next step: modeling a desert scene on the base. Some sand, perhaps a few rusty cogs, pipes, scrap metal etc.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | May 03, 2020 @ 02:01 PM | 6,809 Views
Love love love it!

Star Wars | K2SO (3 min 17 sec)

Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 31, 2020 @ 12:45 AM | 7,676 Views
The saying goes something like this: 'You don't know what you're missing until it's gone'. Rotorbits from Hobbyking. Drone-wise not the best. For construction purposes AWESOME. I bought a lot of Rotorbits stuff in some HK fire sale for like 10ct a piece and now truly benefitting from this money splurge I did a while back Perfect for strengthening the chassis & body. Only downside is it needs M2.5 bolts. Luckily I also had those but running out fast.

- Modified the Mobius to a poor man's DJI unit.

- Axial SCX10 II Builderkit arrived, quality is a bit of a let down. I expected more toughness and configuration options straight
out of the box. It feels limited and not worthy the title 'Builders Kit'. I've ordered some aluminium parts from AliX to strengthen it. I was also surprised it doesn't have options included to ajust riding height. Only body posts. Battery tray is not custom friendly. I ordered a flatter one which gives more mounting options.

- I am still waiting for the interior set. In the meanwhile, I'm closing up the bottom to keep as much dirt out as possible. Many iterations have passed and final result is still unknown... until i get the interior set and can figure out final layout.

- The pan-unit fits perfectly between the shock tower and rotorbits-brace. Unfortunately no tilt, there's no room left. This might change when the interior set is built and installed but I doubt it. The pan-unit needs to be far back to adjust for the narrower view the...Continue Reading
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 22, 2020 @ 12:45 PM | 8,295 Views

Lots of stuff done, and encountered a small challenge on the way. The front window is distorting the view I already ordered 1mm plexiglass to conquer this horrible nightmare.

Body is almost completely painted. I am doubting if I should put on a semi-gloss clear coat for protecting the paint, or leave it as is and let nature do it's thing.
The hood didn't close properly. I chamfered the edges a bit and now it fits like a glove.
I've installed ultra bright led's for headlights, taken from a broken but high quality flashlight. This is going to be fun at night
Most windows are bolted to the frame, except the rear window. I think its a piece of lexan instead of perspex/acrylic. Very bendy and not too clear. To avoid glueing it in, as i might want to pop it out later for antennae or so, I took 1 mm styrene rod and made an internal frame. Now the window can be popped out the frame without too much trouble.

AND... I've managed to use a 7ch RX with PPM-out as input signal for my EzUhf No idea how I go from here. Maybe a long cable instead of this contraption works better in the end. But the idea of dropping the EzUhf on a roof, on a pole or hanging in a tree, to extend the range is an appealing idea. The Rx is 7ch, and my DX8 is, well 8ch. I have to test to see if the Rx is transmitting 7 or 8 PPM-channels. Edit***Well, maybe not:
Originally Posted by schumixmd
Ok. meanwhile have checked how the PPM out works.

...Continue Reading
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 14, 2020 @ 12:23 PM | 9,320 Views
Today I've managed to lay down most of the final paint. It's starting to look quite awesome if I may say so It still needs some touching up and I still have to paint all the black parts. Also, I've been pondering how to utilize a PC Steeringwheel and create working pedals. Steering is easy, just replace the potentiometer of the radio with an extended potentiometer from the PC-Steeringwheel. As most potentiometers of radios work as voltage dividers, the actual Ohms shouldn't matter too much. ...But how to connect a brake and throttle-pedal

I've been thinking how to use both pedals on one radio-channel: throttle-brake-reverse. You can program most car-esc's so that going in reverse starts with braking, and then applying brakes again reverses the car. Practically you do this with one channel. So I came up with the luminous idea of connecting the potentiometer of the brake-pedal to the potentiometer of the throttle-pedal. BUT, the brake-pedal-potentiometer must be of half the resistance of the throttle-pedal-potentiometer. And when the brake-pedal is not pressed ('in rest'), the potentiometer should measure 0 Ohms, thus utilizing the full range of the throttle-pedal-potentiometer when applying throttle, and then when you press the brake pedal, the resistance increases of the brake-pedal-potentiometer, together with 1/2R of the throttle-potentiometer, totaling full range and thus braking. Hit the brake again and the brake-pedal becomes a reverse-pedal.

This works & drives amazing in my brain, but still need to proof this concept in the real world

Hopefully I can order a SCX10 II frame in the next few days. I'll have to make sure the mailman is not quarantined.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 10, 2020 @ 02:32 PM | 8,776 Views
Or was it part III

Small update. Everything sanded & primed. Everything fits so well together! The clear plastic parts for the head- & taillights are difficult to paint. My clear yellow turned out to be clear brown

I also received my pan unit ('servo load bearing block') from The reason I choose this is because I want to avoid a 'bobblehead'-like live stream whereas any play in a pan-servo would enhance shaking/vibration. I want my fpv/HD-camera mounted as sturdy as possible. Expensive for what it is but from what I know, price is high due to patents.

Update march 13th:

The paint looks gorgeous on the model! I've painted the hood and two side panels and then it hit me... if i need three cans of primer for such a large model, i'll need at least three cans of paint for the final color So, i've collected some more cans of AS-5.

Also, the supplied mirrors on the hood don't stand a chance in a roll-over so i ordered some generic ones from ebay. The third from the left should be good except... it comes with a sticker that doesn't work as a mirror. Just a shiny surface. SO... i came up with the luminous idea of ordering 24mm dentist mirros on ebay. Let's see how that pans out.

Before priming the hood, i've filled the holes where the mirrors supposed to go with plastic putty/filler and it looks really good. No dimples to be seen.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 07, 2020 @ 04:05 AM | 5,348 Views
I ordered a Fatshark Trinity head tracker from BG and got it to work with my DX8 (Gen1), to control pan/tilt in my soon to be SCX10 Range Rover. Took some effort digging through the internet but I've managed to come up with a working solution.

Why a stand-alone head tracker? The DJI Digital system i'd like to buy in the near future doesn't have head tracking built in, so I'm preparing myself for the future.

I want Pan and tilt on channel 7 and 8 of my DX8 so these are the steps I took (will be edited for clarification):

- On the DX8: Hold down roller-button when powering up. Then, scroll to the trainer menu. Set Trainer mode to Programmable Master and set CH7 & 8 to slave.
- Set Trinity Headtracker module to output Pan & Tilt to CH7 & CH8 by holding the Trinity button when powering up and let go of the button directly after powering up. Then listen to the beeps to get to the preferred mode, confirm mode by pressing button, listen to beeps for correct setting, confirm setting by pressing button.
- Connect tracker with supplied cable to trainer port on the back of the DX8.
- press button on Trinity to activate tracker.
- Somehow I've understood that head tracking only will activate when holding down the bind/trainer switch on the DX8. I only got two hands and this sounds like a stupid idea so I exchanged the momentary switch with a tumbler switch. Works great!
- The pan-motion is also controlled by the three-way switch of AUX2. Now I can pan left-center-right with a flick of a switch.
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Mar 04, 2020 @ 12:46 PM | 9,201 Views
I've had enough of the bad weather lately in pretty much everywhere in Europe. Not being able to fly or test my quads & mavig2pro, I decided to start building a FPV ground pounder so I can do some FPV exploring when it's too windy. First I was looking at a Toyota LC70 but after seeing it compared to a Range Rover, my decision was set in stone. Range Rover it is. I've ordered at for the first time, and I am amazed by how fast it shipped. 7 days from China to Western Europe.

So far most parts are sanded with a Scotch Brite pad and a dry fit looks promising. This built is going to be a lot of work because a lot of parts and a ton of tiny bolts & nuts. But that's part of the fun!

I want to control it with my old EZuhf + DX8 (gen1), and a Fatshark Trinity head tracker for pan/tilt + old attitude headset. Hopefully I can upgrade to a DJI Digital system later this year. The color will be light blue. My EzUhf is somewhere in a box with other RC stuff... but... can't find it.

If all goes well, I really want to be able to control it with one of those PC-steeringwheels for race games. Hacking is easy I think, me having an electronics background & profession so it shouldn't be too difficult. Plenty of tutorials to be found on the internet for assistance.

Paint & primer is ordered. Once the body is (mostly) ready, I'll order an Axial SCX10 II builders kit. To be continued...

*Update/edit* Tires came in! Less than 10 days from boomracing/...Continue Reading
Posted by NobatteryNopower | Sep 13, 2019 @ 10:20 AM | 3,955 Views
Today I've been working on another project, again a fantasy Star Wars Vehicle with hopefully a movable pilot figure.

It's alive! ...By the courtesy of a dremel & 6gr servo
Star Wars Death Trooper Animatronic (0 min 13 sec)

Posted by NobatteryNopower | Jul 16, 2019 @ 01:47 PM | 5,328 Views
Built this Star Wars™ K-2SO speeder bike some time ago, never flown due to not being the best pilot...yet / still learning. Hopefully later this year i have another 250 size quad for practising & fondling with iNav.

Props are for show. No idea how they will perform*. I also have clear 5030 props. Might add LED's later. Top front panel is held with magnets for easy access to battery bay & receiver. I've used two top plates from zmr250's with 10mm standoffs in between as the midsection. The flightcontroller and esc are in between those two plates. Arms are standard zmr250.

K-2SO - Bandai
4X T-Motor F40 F40III 2306 2400KV
Betaflight - SPRacing F3
2x ZMR250 various parts + plasticard
Afro 4x1 ESC - 20A I think
Balances perfectly with nanotech 3S1500mah.

*6-bladed props are VERY twitchy. Quad is all over the place. Second Video is with 5030 and the Speeder Bike reacts way friendlier.

6-bladed 5" props
Star Wars K-2SO Speeder Bike. (0 min 59 sec)

3-bladed 5030's
Star Wars Speeder Bike / K-2SO (2 min 9 sec)
...Continue Reading