Posted by jeffreym | Mar 14, 2006 @ 12:40 PM | 2,875 Views
Just a question who can tell me what the difference is between the GWS-EPS-350 with C- gearing and the same with D- gearing ? Why ? I am bulding a T-38 3D and need to know.ThanK you.

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Posted by GoatZilla | Mar 14, 2006 @ 12:06 PM | 8,481 Views
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Posted by derfred | Mar 14, 2006 @ 09:48 AM | 13,401 Views
this is a 60 cm wingspan tiger moth I´m building

Expected AUW is 70 grams

n20 motor
lipo 340
2X 3.6 g. servos
7 g. receiver

the airfoil I´m using is similar to clark-y

The plan is here:
http://www.mo-na-ko.net/images5/LetTigerMoth_04.jpg

fred
Posted by tadatuo | Mar 14, 2006 @ 01:51 AM | 4,557 Views
The r/c transporter. Lots of room in the trunk for small rc planes and helicopters.
Posted by Mike Woodley | Mar 13, 2006 @ 10:12 PM | 2,435 Views
What is the history behind the name, Mr. Darby?
Does anyone know after whom it was named?
Posted by jariw | Mar 13, 2006 @ 03:26 PM | 2,570 Views
This is the spitfire build by Dave Ph plans.
Posted by silentflyier | Mar 13, 2006 @ 02:11 PM | 2,416 Views
Guys,

just got me a bundle of pink "Owen" fan fold and I'm trying to learn how to use and shape the stuff. So far it's easy to cut, but, how do you shape the material, I mean, how do you shape it into a round wing leading edge? or compound curves like for a fuse?
I've been told one can use heat. I "experimented" by putting a test piece in the oven at 200 deg. and wound up with something looking like a big pork rind. After seeing some of the great stuff -I mean scale airplanes-that some talented folks are putting out, I know there's a way, but I don't know it just yet. Any info you can forward or a particular website that you can think of that has what I'm looking for would be appreciated.

Thanks
Posted by TheSuper | Mar 13, 2006 @ 01:48 PM | 2,989 Views
blog blog, blog..... blog....
Posted by billekens | Mar 13, 2006 @ 01:04 PM | 2,788 Views
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Posted by GRW3 | Mar 13, 2006 @ 12:52 PM | 8,456 Views
Ones Good To Have but Not Necessary

The only power tool you need is a good drill, cordless preferably. I would follow that with a hand held Dremel Tool or one of the copies that are available today. (I got a new All Trade with 200 accesories at COSTCO for $26. Good thing too, my ancient Dremel had spun its last.)

Over time I acquired several other useful tools. A Dremel Scroll Saw, a 10" Drill Press, and smal Belt and Disk Sander.

It is not unusual to have to cut plywood, hard wood or large chunks of balsa during a construction project. You can use coping saws, hack saws or jig saws for a lot of this but that can be time consuming or awkward. Faced with one kit that had a lot of this I borrowed an old Dremel saw from a friend. i liked the convenience but hated the noise of the vibrator used to displace the saw. I resisted buying one until Dremel brought out the modern version with a quiet drive.

The Drill press is important for easy placement of accurate holes. You can set depth and angle for precise control. Some pieces can be hand held but you should consider a drill press vise for better control.

The Disk and Belt Sander is a great combination for modeling. The Belt Sander is great for roughing out large pieces of cross grain or mixed assemblies where members of the plane family would not work. Finish the job with a block sander. The Disk Sander is a more precise device but cannot handle as much material. It can do angles, simple and complex. Which can be very helpful in getting tight fits.

The Saw and the Sander can generate a lot of sawdust. They are equiped with Shop Vac fittings if you need to do a lot of cutting and/or sanding indoors. I have to get a new Shop Vac so for now I am doing the heavy wook outdoors.

Your best bet with these tools is to use somebody else's to get a feel for their effectiveness. If I had to choose one, I would probably go with the Sander.
Posted by Robert Smaglik | Mar 13, 2006 @ 10:59 AM | 3,054 Views
Has anybody have experiience flying the arrow designed by Laddie Mikulasko,
I have built one from RCM plans but can't get it to fly,very unstable.

RLS
Posted by applejack | Mar 13, 2006 @ 06:23 AM | 2,829 Views
18 tooth Ditto with 20 5x5x2.5 N50 magnet poles wound 22 turns 24awg. A 12x6 prop does not seem to load this motor down at all.
Posted by applejack | Mar 13, 2006 @ 06:05 AM | 2,815 Views
First attempt at making my own flux ring and face plate. Also my first LRK style motor. 25x6.6 stator w/14 5x7x2mm N50 magnets

A favorite 22.7mm single stator motor with 23 turns of 26awg Y

Bits and pieces - 22.7 stators ready to wind
Posted by nemo_uk | Mar 13, 2006 @ 04:09 AM | 19,355 Views
new stuff for RealFlight G3 ... Extra 330S & RC Universe Biplane modelled by Rick Deltenre. Raptor 30 V2 modelled by me.

download them from http://www.rfmodels.com/
Sticky:

Introduction

Posted by billekens | Mar 13, 2006 @ 02:36 AM | 2,830 Views
I am relatively new to RC flying. Eight years ago, I made a Gentle Lady from a kit and used a four-channel Futuba radio for the RC. I had a great time learning to fly this glider. It was slow enough so that I could learn the difficult conversion from standing outside the cockpit and having the controls seemingly in reverse if the aircraft comes towards you. I know now that nothing reverses but my mind thinks in reverse. We sold our house moved to a new city. My Gentle Lady was delegated to a shelve for a few years. I am now in the process of putting electric power in my Gentle Lady.
I have many hours flying full size aircraft like Beavers, Otters and Twin Otters to name a few. I have been a commercial pilot for forty years and have extensive experience in the arctic. Now that I am retired, I would like to take up the hobby of RC again. Eventually I will build a Beaver on floats if I can find a good-looking model kit. I do not know if that could be materialized with electric power. That question will be answered in the future