Posted by bidule | Today @ 10:43 AM | 11 Views
Winter ...Confinement ...not much fun ...building a Mosquito from an 10 years old french Magazine ...always good for the spirit and I love balsa
normally was for gaz , mine he's electric , two JP Hobby retract and 2 out runner brushless motor
I modify the fuse , on the plan the bottom was square , I foam for a better shape .. not an easy build the nacelle are not that easy to build
I will post pictures following the build
Posted by GroundControlRC | Today @ 10:12 AM | 51 Views

Eachine Mini Mustang P51D Warbird - Expert Mode TX16S - High Wind Terror Fun! DustOff Flights 7 & 8

Get One Here: Eachine Mini Mustang P51D Warbird RTF

RadioMaster TX16S Transmitter

Eachine Mini F4U Corsair

Eachine Mini T-28 Trojan

Volantex Sport Cub 500

Banggood GCRC

Here is a link to the Video:

Here's a Link to the Playlist for the Eachine Mini P51D Mustang:

Spare Parts:

Lipo Battery 1S 360mAh for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Brushed Motor 10mm Hollow Cup for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Prop 130X70mm Propeller Set for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Gearbox for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Receiver Board Original 4 CH Onboard Servo for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane

Front Landing Gear Set for Eachine Mini Mustang P-51D RC Airplane
...Continue Reading
Posted by TMacFPV | Today @ 08:49 AM | 179 Views
I fly micro FPV drones (those that spin 4" props or less) and I'm constantly looking to improve upon the "components" for my builds.

One such "component" is the LiPo battery which actually is normally the heaviest "component" on your quad.
Now, I've been flying GNB and RDQ LiPos for quite some time and have been very happy with them.

Recently I came across a relatively new brand of LiPos, Auline. Noticed Auline has a 4S 1000 mah LiPo (60C) which is advertised as:
"a very powerful battery that is suited for micro long-range builds that utilize an XT30 connector."

I have been using the GNB 4S 1100 mah (50C) LiPo for this purpose, however, this "new" Auline is 8 grams lighter for about the same capacity (1000 mah vs 1100 mah). I have been getting at least 17 minutes of flight time with the GNB so I thought "Wow, I wonder what I can get out of this new Auline at about the same capacity but 8 grams lighter!"

Here's what I found out
Micro FPV Drone Battery (AULINE 4S 1000 mah LiPo) (9 min 35 sec)

Posted by PittSpecial | Today @ 07:32 AM | 361 Views
My original "Park Zone" T-28 Trojan (NAVY) survived almost one solid week (December 1st, through December 6, 2020) day and night exposure to a Brackish water Lake adjacent to our RC Club field. This model came from someone here in Orlando, Florida who modified it with Servo-less Retracts and has now endured two (2) crashes. One to solid Mother Earth Ground (Nose In) and now to a Man Made lake with all kinds of creatures lurking and nibbling at it.

The Tail feathers did NOT delaminate nor decals after all this exposure from the Sun and Water.

Perhaps the Original "Park Zone" NAVY Trojan was made better?

Oh, the servos are still original! (Less of course the Power System).

Here's my Video and pay attention to the pictures after post re-maiden flight and repairs! (Eye Candy)

Park Zone T 28 NAVY 44 inch wing span Trojan retracts post crash repairs 01 16 2021 (2 min 26 sec)

Posted by Tazkiller85 | Today @ 06:01 AM | 583 Views
Yep Les Amis,
Pas le meilleur de la marque mais fiable ! J'ai en test aujourd'hui le nouveau MotoWhoop 90HD de chez HGLRC. Un petit appareil toujours bien conçu et très bien équipé ! Pas de mauvaise surprise au déballage ou à la mise en route et une très bonne surprise en vol indoor. La carte AIO ZEUS en F722 apporte un plus à son prédécesseur en matière de précision de pilotage. Parfait pour s'initier au FPV ou au vol à vue, ce petit Whoop de 90mm est résistant aux chocs et assez agile. On note cependant un léger manque de puissance ou portance soit du à son poids soit aux hélices pas tout à fait adaptées peut être. Il est donc plus à l'aise en cruising et ballades qu'en freestyle. La Caddx Nébula est suffisante sur ce type d'engin mais reste en dessous de la Vista. En bref, un investissement qui reste honorable en HD si vous ne recherchez pas de grosses perfs ! ... Bon Film et merci à tous pour votre soutien .

HGLRC MotoWhoop 90 HD - Review Test Démo - Pas mal ce petit Tank, mais pas ouf ... (31 min 54 sec)

Débutants et confirmés
Les + : Bien réglé en sortie de boite, Très résistant, Bonne conception, Bien équipé , Agréable à piloter pour la ballade.
Les - : Autonomie moyenne, Nébula moins précise que Vista, Un peu lourdaud pour du freestyle.

Chez HGLRC :
- HGLRC Motowhoop 90 HD :

Chez Banggood :
- HGLRC Motowhoop 90 HD ( coupon BGAFF10OFF ) :
- Lipo 3S 550mAh : ou ...Continue Reading
Posted by Mucksmear | Yesterday @ 10:26 PM | 1,270 Views
Background: In the early 90's I started my first 1/4 scale build, an A&A Industries Citabria by Bud Nosen. It took me about 15 years on and off to just frame the left and right sides of the fuselage. When my kids were born, I picked up the pace and managed to finish her by 2007. After a successful test flight and just a few flying sessios, I mistimed a flight, ran out of battery and got too low to dive for speed and too slow to flare, so it mushed into the rough terrain slightly nose down. There was significant damage to the LG mounting plate and the fuselage bottom in that area. The motor mount also came loose and one of the there was some minor wing strut damage too. Then we lost our field (BARCS) and the airframe just sat in the shop for the next 13 years until now.

The original build threads are here:

The LG was mounted with steel screws - if I had used nylon bolts, the damage would probably have been constrained to the area below the LG plate instead of including the longerons and some of the fuselage sides. The LG plate has been re-attached and the bottom longerons on each side have been re-spliced with new stock. You can also see the irregular patch on the fuselage side, surrounding the strut attachement slot. This whole area was crunched on both sides of the fuse. The original fuse bottom covered the LG in a continuous slab. I had to remove one wheel to slide the LG out. This time I'm making the whole section a hatch so the LG drop straight in.
Discussion / Posted by saucerguy / Yesterday @ 08:18 PM / 1,481 Views / 1 Comments / Reply
This entry is temporarily hidden while saucerguy edits it.
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Yesterday @ 07:19 PM | 1,605 Views
Version 3 finally managed to go 6.4 miles with no payload, over hills & bumps, with minimal stops. Power consumption was a whopping 175mAh/mile. It could go over 20 miles without a payload, on a single battery. It could also go 10 miles on a much lighter battery. The motors might benefit from a hotter winding, pending speed tests & payload tests. The motors weren't obviously hot after the drive.

Despite the bumps, the encoders stayed in place. The PID controllers were soft. The hard tires made it squirly. The mane limitation was now the paw controller. The controls need to be spaced out 10mm in every direction & it needs to be bigger. The lion kingdom has been leaning towards getting rid of the isogrids & the dual thickness in favor of simplifying it.

The battery compartment needs foam. The bolts need lock nuts. The tires held up well. Despite the hall effect joysticks, binary steering proved much easier than analog steering.

The low power consumption was manely from the hard tires & very little contact patch. Less benefit was from being direct drive, lions believe.

The encoders still required printing spacers to tweek the alignment. They're not as stable as hoped, but at least they just need 1 magnet & 2 sensors. Having the sensors too close to the magnet causes bigger constant regions of voltage. Moving the sensors farther from the magnet axially creates more changing regions. There still might be a way to make the software use past encoder readings to deglitch the current reading.

The steering PID controller needs to reverse direction when driving in reverse. The lion kingdom only realized it after 7 years of failing to hold a straight line in reverse. The trick is transitioning between fwd & rev.
Posted by UpNup | Yesterday @ 04:07 PM | 1,935 Views
No manual exists. I saw an ancient blurry photo online that held the key.

1. Epoxy ply rails in place, buttress them, and drill holes. It is easy to do this if the fuselage is not fully in place. Otherwise you’ll have to cut. Use a micro-saw against the grain of balsa and a hobby knife with the grain.

2. Connect the steering mechanism first. Run a stiff line from rudder servo to the clevis at the swivel point. I’d recommend a braided cable if a wire rod isn’t available. I ran mine inside a flex tube that was epoxied to the fuse every two inches. The steering mechanism must swing parallel to the motion of the retract. The nose wheel strut must be firmly held into place by an Allen screw.

3. Open the control rod metal clevis and put the outermost swing arm inside the clevis pin. Make sure the clevis pin goes to the outside away from the strut. Put a metal clip in the brass pin of the clevis. Do not use any other method to secure the clevis such as a 1/16” portion of fuel line.

4. Make sure the nose retract locks both down and up. The control rod clevis for the retract must match the distance. I recommend doing this in the down position.

5. Screw the retract in place making sure the blind nuts seat or bite firmly into the ply rail.

6. A mechanical retract typically uses one strong servo and bends wires into a round servo control piece. Make sure the servo is the the down position when hooking up the clevis arms on the retracts.

Note. The photos were taken when replacing broken retracts that had been epoxied into place. The Hobbico mechanical retracts from 1995 did not match the holes of their 1999 version. All the innards did match, so I swapped out the sides. For whatever reason both old and new nose wheel retracts had rail screws glued into place. Two of the four screws in EACH retract had to be sawed off.
Posted by g monkey | Yesterday @ 03:00 PM | 2,013 Views
Flying with HF3D on the OMP M2

I thought that as a novice pilot I wouldn't really be able to tell the difference between the stock flight controller and the Heliflight3D controller. I was pleasantly surprised to be proved wrong.

Although the OMP M2 has received a lot of praise for its build quality and flying characteristics, there has been some criticism regarding a 'robotic' or 'notchy' feel to the cyclic response. This quirk is thrown into sharp relief by the HF3D controller, which has no dead-band at all. I found that this makes a big difference to the kind of flying that I am doing - hovering practice in different orientations, slow controlled flight and accurate spot landings - where many small corrections are required. Perhaps better pilots can easily work around this (or with appropriate curves in the transmitter), but I now realise that I was battling against this dead-band on top of trying to learn basic flying skills.

The M2 is simply easier to fly with the hf3d controller. I've dialled down the cyclic rate on the transmitter to 40%, tail to 70% and with a tame pitch curve, I have a fluid, responsive and smooth flying machine that any novice could use.

Of course, the hard core 3d pilots will appreciate the tail holding ability of this controller too, but I am some way from stressing this aspect of the flight envelope.


I now have some very useful information coming back to my transmitter. I have set alarms based on the power...Continue Reading
Posted by Old_Pilot | Yesterday @ 12:11 PM | 2,444 Views
42" CF-100 Canuck, twin 64mm high output fans...Almost flight ready......down to push rods and control horns.....tested the fans, and my trepidation about not having enough thrust was unwarranted

Specs: 42" WS 65 oz all up, (2) Powerfun 12 blade 64 mm fans, 3500 kv, 65 A ZTW ESC's, 17gr metal gear digital servos, Lemon 6-ch DSMP receiver, (2) 2600 mah 50C 4S batteries, 102 oz thrust
Posted by UpNup | Yesterday @ 12:00 PM | 2,324 Views
An RC Pilot Goes to Heaven

One day when life is over
And before my Lord I stand,
He’ll look at me with eternal love
And a model in His hand.

It’ll look just like the one I flew
Upon the wind so free.
I’d built it in my shop to fly
And from the world set free.

Jesus held it out for me
And asked me how it flew.
Memories came flooding in right then
It was my life reviewed.

He asked me if I’d really felt
The Creator’s hand in mine?
To plan, to cut, to sand, and coat,
Until the plane was fine.

He opened my mind to see the save
When that earthward plunge pulled up
I saw His hand beneath the wings
And yet I counted it luck.

I heard my heart then heave a sigh
When flying out of sight
Up and up, it went so high,
No longer in the sky.

A little prayer I’d prayed that day
He’d heard it bye and bye.
But I missed how He comforted me
Flying buddies by my side.

I remembered all with clarity
No longer with remorse.
The Lord had been there all along,
A Friend to me, of course.

I took the plane from the Master’s Hands
And looked at it anew.
Jesus had kept it safely here
A joy for me He knew.

I launched the plane, it flew away.
‘Twas perfect now like me.
I saw the twinkle in His eye,
A friend to modelers He.
Posted by HOTMAILcity | Yesterday @ 10:18 AM | 2,630 Views
Robert Graves reported that Atlas was the first astronomer ..This would mean that Astronomy (That is, Astrology ) was introduced by the Atlanteans ..

Lord Dowding, Lychgate .. These wonderful beings who outstripped all other races in THE QUEST OF KNOWLEDGE, and incidentally overlooked the need for SPIRITUAL ADVANCEMENT in themselves ..

◄► Beyond The Pillars of BRIAREUS is situated (kui-land أرض القوي) , THE GREAT RULER OF THE EARTH .. (kui / قوي / strong) ..

James Churchward : The Great Ruler of the Earth ​, exists no longer, she was shaken up and down by earthquakes in various places. The land rolled like ocean swells ..

Finally, the Pillars that supported her gave way. She then sank into a fiery abyss.

As the Great Ruler went down, flames from the fires of the underneath arose and enveloped her. The waters rolled in over her sunken form ..

Pillars (عماد) were supporting Mu, a lost continent in the Pacific Ocean? .. An absurd idea, that bears no relation to reality ..

However it must be admitted that the allegory is ingenious , and it is worth debating .. Pillars allegorize Haughtiness, which stem from (improper pride) owing to (Arrogance and Aufgeblasenheit) ..

comp. with. (Hrothgar's Hall) and (Iram of the Pillars) ..

◄ (mother) is (ام / om) in Arabic, a single consonant letter word .. From (أم )...Continue Reading
Posted by aopen3434 | Yesterday @ 10:13 AM | 2,647 Views
New 238-100 motor 28kw continuous rated power 55kW peak power.
HALBACH ARRAY VERSION AVAILABLE ! OEM welcome customization available .

55kw peak power
28kw continuous power
ESC:120V @ 500A
MAX CURRENT draw: 280A
40 pole
HALBACH ARRAY version 20 pole
Kv available: 15, 25, 38, 48, 55, 87kv
tested with 52 inch 3 blade carbon prop
155 lb lift

...Continue Reading
Posted by Jerome Morris | Yesterday @ 08:06 AM | 2,937 Views
Built this for an O scale model railroad.
Alaska RR never had a marine division so this sort of just developed over emails in a few days time.
Tug, car float and the ramp to get off the dry land.
Well weathered for that authentic model railroad look
Posted by Angwan | Yesterday @ 04:48 AM | 3,238 Views
I have a zip zap se the red and black Ford mustang gt the wires came apart can anyone help with how they go back in the right spot
Posted by Mandy Chen | Yesterday @ 03:30 AM | 3,394 Views
Get your Land SnaiL 930 Electric Skateboard at Beach RC

WhatsApp/Skype: +8613670131260

#BrotherHobby #LandSnaiL #ESkateboard #LandSnaiL930 #electricskateboard #esk8 #eboard #eboarding #electricskateboarding #skateboard #skate #electricscooter #BeachRC
Posted by alex_nikiforov | Jan 14, 2021 @ 11:25 PM | 3,913 Views
Foxeer Micro Lollipop 5.8G 2.5DBi High Gain Omni RHCP FPV Antenna for RC Drone Airplane

Foxeer Micro Lollipop. Измеряем КСВ. Наземный тест дальности. (10 min 3 sec)

Link: Foxeer Micro Lollipop
Posted by VicT | Jan 14, 2021 @ 08:46 PM | 4,330 Views
This was the third time learning to fly the Eflite P39 Airacobra using the 12/8 APC prop and 2200 4S SMART lipo. Weather was 3 mph crosswind and 60F so we concentrated on low approaches and go arounds. We found out the lowest power setting for taxi and it turned out to be between 25-30% throttle setting on the DX6 (students) and DX9 (instructors) on screen display. We set throttle cut and moved the throttle up to 25-30% and then uncut the throttle. The P39 broke away from the fabric runway and with in 5 seconds (Throttle Cut Delay) the P39 reached a top speed of about 3-5 mph. We used this same throttle setting on the downwind and then on final with gear and flaps 100 the P39 had a nice descent. We kept her high to clear the 60 ft trees (that have claimed many models) and then once clear used full down (SAFE On limited to about a 40 degree dive) to level off in ground effect (5-7 ft). With only rudder she touched down smooth as silk with this 5 mph taxi power setting. No bounce no guessing when to flare just landing with power on. The hardest part is to take your eyes off the model and setting 25-30% throttle setting. No throttle curve or other adjustments needed.

We tried a 4 yr old 3200 4S pack and got more time but when the countdown timer said 20 seconds to land I made a steep descent clean and put the gear down at about 50 ft. The 2 second setting for gear and 100% flaps was just in time as I touched down in the grass 1 ft away from the fabric...Continue Reading