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Views: 766
After removing the heat sink it turns out there was only one FET that needs thermal compound. The rest use thermal transfer tape. Which seems reusable to me. Some of the tape is still stuck on the heat sink. -
Views: 706
Here are the balance transistors for the #1 port! The ones for the #2 port are still covered by tape. -
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I cut the contacts here with a sharp razor knife. Side snips would probably have been good too. Unfortunately I cut the wrong transistor because I was rushing. But here is the photo so you can see how i cut them. -
Views: 716
After removing the transistor you can see that I almost cut the contacts off flush with the casing. -
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I cut the two long posts on the new transistor to match the length of the middle one. Then I tinned all contacts. -
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This is actually the side I was supposed to be working on all along. You can see the burn mark on the piece of board that was under the chip. You can also see the little burn spot on the face of the chip laying on top of its neighbor to the right. -
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After soldering.
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The old broken frame pieces. -
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It is a good idea to use one of the new frame pieces or the old frame piece after you remove one as a way to organize your screws as you remove them. They are all different lengths and it is easy to get them confused. -
Views: 492
Once the frame is all open you can use this time to clean the gunk out from old belts and gears as well as sand and grime. Maintenance the bearings or anything else that needs to be done like replace the belt. -
Views: 507
This sheered gear cap allowed for play in the shaft. It moved up and down till the bottom black gear cap slid down exposing an edge side of the gear where the belt could wrap around. As it spun it wore the belt teeth away. It was pretty bad. -
Views: 490
It's sheered down pretty bad! Probably almost 1mm missing.The shaft was able to move up and down while spinning and eventually knocked the other cap loose. I will cover how i repaired this later in this build log.
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Views: 548
I had to open it up. 6 screws in the back to get it open. -
Views: 485
Carefully!! unplug the leads to the back panel. -
Views: 561
Getting the throttle hold switch out is no easy task. From what i can tell, you might even have to unsolder the pots for the sticks. I decided i don't want to disassemble anything else. -
Views: 468
Instead of using the more civilized method of logical progression. I went brute force on this sucker. I removed the outside nut holding the toggle in and lifted till the frame cracked. oops! But it gave me just enough clearance to force the switch out.... -
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The new replacement switch on the left with it's tag shown in the back. The red one still has the board that I'll be using on the new switch. -
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New switch with PCB installed. -
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Stuck it in with a little force, but it's in there. The stock TX nut to hold it in fit also. -
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Don't forget to plug everything back in the way it came out and screw the transmitter back together. I had no issues and have been flying fine since!
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Views: 407
Okay, so i broke the RX shelf and had to replace the air frame. -
Views: 364
So I had to strip down the old frame starting with the servos and servo mounts. -
Views: 391
The guide wheels and motor need to come out also. -
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The new stock unmodified air frame. -
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Bottom side. -
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Notice how nice and flush the bearing is with the frame. You want to try and get it as close to this as possible. -
Views: 382
Changing the belt guide wheels over to the new frame. -
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My RX circuit board came loose inside this jacket. So I had to break it open and put a new piece of foam mounting tape inside to secure it. Then i taped the RX jacket back up.