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Posted by rchrist | Jun 18, 2020 @ 05:21 PM | 6,030 Views
Finished converting my fp fx070c to cp. Couple more things to tweak. Awesome results.

Edited 06-25-20: I started this project with the cc3d flight controller - had a few ups a downs and decided to try a k-bar unit I had for years and never used nor tried in a heli. All the axises are clicking on the bench getting ready to air test. Didn't take long to figure out how to setup the brushless tail and that's going to need some tweaking once airborne. Meanwhile, I got a k124 flight controller on order for it as the easiest setup. Also got a micro brain 2 as another option. The cc3d is the hardest of them all to tweak for great flight and I was close before now trying the k-bar. The cp function is awesome in it and it scaled flied nicely with the cc3d. I also had to take it from 4s to 3s - to much power with the oversized motor. I now have a footprint of how to convert fx070c to cp. Transplanting another unit into the shell seems much harder than converting. Oh, and it sounds awesome also - no more gear to gear noise.

Posted by rchrist | Jun 15, 2020 @ 11:02 AM | 4,008 Views
The Tail for my FX070cp have a emax 1804 ccw motor with 5" tri blade powered by a favorite littlebee pro opto 20A esc. Same as when it was fix pitch. The motor is rated 3s, but, I've ran it on 4s many times - no issues there.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 12, 2020 @ 11:19 PM | 9,754 Views
I had to change location of the third servo for the fp 2 cp conversion, because I realized I wouldn't be able to unscrew the servo if I needed to replace it or even unscrew the horn with the previous setup. The new position is much better. Need to tweak the alignment and good to go.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 10, 2020 @ 08:56 PM | 15,971 Views
I'm converting my FX070c from fixed pitch to collective pitch with direct main drive motor running on 4s. I'm still tweaking the fitment and will fab a new tray for the lipo, esc, and rx (cc3d or k110). Got to lock the third servo in place and setup the linkage to the proper length. Got to trim the main shaft, hookup the electronics and more. Got to adjust the swash anti rotation guide. Got to mount the tail esc for the DD brushless motor. Sounds like a lot more to do, but it won't take long to do it all. Can't wait to complete it.
Posted by rchrist | Jun 10, 2020 @ 07:32 PM | 16,150 Views
Got the new gaui x3 tail assembly - already installed and been flying real nice. No feathering shaft and dampen rubbers. No vibration issues.

...Continue Reading
Posted by rchrist | May 16, 2020 @ 09:54 PM | 9,929 Views
The charger is the ISDT Q6 pro 300w 14A

Posted by rchrist | May 15, 2020 @ 05:38 PM | 5,487 Views
I bent two feathering shaft on my K130 in as much days and decided it's time for this modification. I hacked the head by removing the portion for the feathering shaft / blade grips. Had to make my own dog bones as the stocks became to short.

EDITED 5-17-20: I don't like this tarot tail assembly. Not enough clearance in the grips for the k130 rotors. Had to sand off lots of the back end of the rotors root and I don't like that. Ordered the gaui x3 tail assembly that I'm using on one of my k110. I wanted to test it today, but will put it on hold until the gaui tail assembly arrives. Can't wait. Meanwhile, I've stripped my k130 down to single parts and will refurbish it.
Posted by rchrist | May 02, 2020 @ 11:53 PM | 7,651 Views
Posted by rchrist | May 02, 2020 @ 10:16 PM | 7,240 Views
Posted by rchrist | Apr 22, 2020 @ 10:00 PM | 6,921 Views
The plug on the k110 rx board with the ppm signal / +5 / gnd wires goes like this:

The K130 esc PPM signal wire goes to the k110 PPM signal.
The K130 esc +5.5v wire goes to the K110 +5v.
The K130 esc GND wire goes to the k110 GND.

Next, the resistor removal mod need to be done on the K110 rx. This allows 8.4v for the brushed tail motor.

The K130 esc GND need to connect to K110 rx BATT - terminal
The K130 esc 8.4v need to connect to K110 rx BATT + terminal

If using brushless tail, then the resistor mod and 8.4v to the k110 board are not needed. I got rid of my brushed tail from day 2 and never to do the 0 resistor removal mod nor connect 8.4v to my board. But, that's how to run 2s tail from the k110 board. Good Luck.....

I mounted the k110 board in normal orientation with antenna to the front. Then I flipped over the elevator or back servo. Next I connected the k130 back servo to the k110 front servo socket. Then I connected k130 left servo to the k110 right servo socket. Next I connected k130 right servo to the k110 left servo socket. Last I invert the pitch channel (channel 6), aileron channel (channel 1), and the rudder channel (channel 4) in the transmitter. I also adjusted the rate on the servos for less travel with the k130 swash plate. On my setup about 40% - 45% rate is max before swashplate binds to the shaft.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 28, 2020 @ 10:25 PM | 6,101 Views
Need to make little adjustments and should be good to test when I finish the build. Don't want to un-settle my other K110.

It have the k123 swashplate converted to 3mm from 2.5mm and the washout arms from the k130 - a bit long, but ok I guess.

K110 3 blade tail assembly rotor head testing (0 min 38 sec)



My 3 blades build have been a blast. It requires a bit more motor power on the main verses the 2 blades and I also upgraded the tail motor from a 8000 kv to a 10000kv with the k123 full size prop and new wiring to the esc. In comparison to the 2 blades setup, I had to raise the cyclic, throttle, and pitch higher. Iím still fine tuning the 3 blades setup. Although I have it good, Iím designing a 3d print gizmo to sit on top the shaft and keep the grips at 0 degrees with the servos at 90 degrees. Plus a added design to keep the connecting arms at -2 to -3 degrees offset angle. Because the connecting arms are fixed to the grips, it gets a little tedious keeping the arm and grip in position and then locking the arm to the grip. So the gizmo should make it easier to get all 3 arms and grips at the needed degrees of angle. Thereís a little drift to the right and thatís because the grips are not perfectly in sync yet, but you wouldnít notice it when itís moving. Because it needs more power which the sunnysky 2302 have plenty of, Iíll try the bigger sunnysky 2305 motor like I use in my k130 with dmd for comparison. Big bird on a little frame. I could almost see it in scale fuselage.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 17, 2020 @ 02:49 PM | 10,645 Views
Pondering which resources to use, I came across a metal swashplate for a v911 while looking for matching size swash balls to use in a hcp100s project. The balls were perfect and then I noticed the v911 swashplate holds a 3mm shaft verses the k110/k120 using a 2.5mm shaft. My pondering was over and now to make it work for my DMD k110 driveline.

K130 3mm main bearing fits the k110 frame perfect. Now, the v911 swashplate is fixpitch and the k110 is collective pitch. So, I popped out both swashplate center portions with the swiveling ball and put the v911 portion into the k110 portion and created a k110 hybrid swashplate for 3mm shafts. Next, I removed the balls from the k110 discarded portion and put hem on the v911 portion being used. After all that, it seemed I could of just changed the swiveling ball, but the v911 is a littler wider.

Big difference in the blade grips travel as the V911 inner portion have longer arms for the balls connecting the dogbones. Little tx tweaking to soften the travel and it’s all nice in conjunction with the tail assembly being used.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 05, 2020 @ 11:47 AM | 7,846 Views
Almost ready to test my project with a tail assembly installed on the main shaft for main rotors. More fitment continues before I loctite and ca three little parts in place. It's not as huge as it looks in the photos and have more than enough power to swing them easily. The rotors didn't needed any washers as they fitted in the grips nicely. Also, I have the frame braced some, so the extra weight wouldn't flex the frame when rotating. I love it so far and once all is tighten and tested, I'll be able to say more.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 04, 2020 @ 02:43 PM | 9,076 Views
I'm finished with the layout and fitment of all parts to use the tail hub/grips on the the K110 main shaft. Everything fits and move nice and smooth. I just need to file/sand and shape the ruff ends then loctite and ca some parts. I will try to set it up for 12 - 14 degrees max travel using the dog bone guide as the bottom stop and the cap on top as the top stop.
Posted by rchrist | Mar 03, 2020 @ 10:45 PM | 9,074 Views
I've prep a tail hub and grips assembly for Gaui X3 to replace the head, feathering shaft, and blade grips with it. The balls I took from the metal grips for k110/k120 and did a little filing to the part that's inserted into the grips. So, the k110 dog bones are a perfect fit and I've got to sleeve the 2.5mm shaft for a 3mm fit. It have thrust bearings in the grip and might need a washer to hold the blades. I few members have done this to their k130 and I'm also preparing one for my K130.
Posted by rchrist | Feb 27, 2020 @ 01:41 AM | 5,553 Views
After hard searching for the proper bearings to adopt the sunnysky 2302 motor for a 2.5mm shaft, no joy without spending to much for one bearing. So, while digging through a bin with odd stuff, I came across some compression tubing inserts (brass and stainless steel) that is perfect for this application, The 2.5mm shaft fits perfect into the inserts. The stainless steel inserts needs little filing on the OD to fit into the 3mm bearings. The brass inserts drops right into the 3mm bearings. I also put a insert into the locking end of the motor with the flared end on the outside. The other inserts length were shortened by filing them short and the flared side of the inserts were placed on the inside. I did not put any loctite between the inserts and bearing race, but, if I need to, I will. So far, it's smooth as .....

The entire driveline of the 3mm hisky hcp100s can also be adopted to the k110 to avoid what I did with the inserts. If I didn't find the inserts, hcp100s driveline would of been my choice. And it's probably more robust.
Posted by rchrist | Feb 26, 2020 @ 03:33 PM | 5,585 Views
K110 DMD with my modded k120 to k110 skid for a 300mah 2s lipo.

The brushless motor is a sunnysky 2302 v3 1500kv for 3mm shaft and I added support for a 2.5mm main shaft. The k110 was previously a 2s with k120 brushless motor and this gear less set have lots more torque. With the motor mounted flush to the frame it offers much needed frame support that stops the flexing on the driveline that could break the main shaft guide.

It have two new esc with one for a 2s brushless tail with a 10000kv 1103 motor. The tail esc is running blheli firmware for tail. Holding nice. I also painted the frame and skid and regret it as I don't like it. Will do it over with new frame and a fresh modded skid.

I've done the same (DMD) for two k130 and I like this build best.
Posted by rchrist | Feb 26, 2020 @ 03:06 PM | 5,077 Views
Besides carrying a larger 2s lipo, my modded k120 skid adds better front support and ground clearance than the k110 stock skid.