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Posted by Sweetieinsf | Jul 13, 2019 @ 03:13 PM | 3,944 Views
Setting up the Dragonlink V3 system for use with the Eagletree Vector (Full Final Draft instructions attached. The Dragonlink User Manual unfortunately included my first rough Draft that had several errors)

Here are all the steps required to setup the Dragonlink V3 with the Vector including Vector Telemetry. It is assumed that you have connected your Dragonlink Transmitter to you Radio Transmitter and are able to bind to your Dragonlink Receiver. These instructions will not be covering Vector Wiring or settings other than those related to this specific topic.

It will be assumed you are using the Dragonlink MicroRX although all settings and connections for the Large (Advanced) RX are the same EXCEPT that the ANALOG RSSI pin is #8 on the MicroRX and #13 on the Advanced RX.

These instructions will use the PREFERED method of connecting the DL RX to the Vector, S-BUS, and the PREFERED method of FAILSAFE DETECTION in the Vector, S-BUS Failsafe Detection.

Presented here are two different examples. Example #1 will use 12 channels, Analog RSSI (connected to the DL RX Pin #8 for a MicroRX or pin #13 for an Advanced RX) and the Vector Telemetry connected to the DL RX Servo Rail. This is the simplest example.

Example #2 will use 12 channels, Digital RSSI and the UEXP connector on the RX for the Vector Telemetry connection.

There is no functional difference between Analog and Digital RSSI, they both work equally well, but the use of Digital RSSI requires a spare (otherwise unused) RC channel and a manual setting in the Vector. It also frees up a servo pin on the DLRX if needed for an additional PWM connection.

There is also no functional difference between using a servo pin or the UEXP Connector for the Vector Telemetry however using the UEXP again frees up a servo pin on the DLRX if needed for a PWM output.
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Mar 23, 2019 @ 07:10 PM | 2,386 Views
EDIT 7/3/19
After a few flights I found that with the Eagle mounted so close to the nose on the pan servo it was very disorienting under head tracker control since I had no center reference. I also found that it kinda ruined the HD footage with it right in front so I removed the pan servo and mounted the cam in the foam - much better!


EDIT 3/28/19
A few items I didn't mention in the original post and my final AUW:
1) Current AUW is 4063gr. with a Turnigy 10k 12-24C 6S and 3995gr with a (no longer available) Multistar 10k 10C 6S
2) I used, for the first time, Goop hinges. They are MUCH more flexible than my usual "Z" hinge and tape or lam and I could not tear them off when I tried.
3) On my previous Drak Builds I have used a double layer of 5mil lam on the bottom and even that get's torn up from landings on the rough ground where I fly. For this build I went with 2 light coats of Goop. It remains to be seen if that is more effective...
4) With my new idea of putting the Vtx in the SIDE of the nose, rather than in the top, I discovered that in bench testing the large heat sink got HOT after 10-15 minutes. I didn't have this issue on other planes with the heat sink facing up and since I often will be powered up for 10-15 minutes while waiting for sat lock, calibrating the tracker, and general BS I decided to add a fan. I have several that come with my Hobbywing ESCs that I don't use. I cut a hole in the Main Bay corro and glued the fan to the underside and
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 27, 2018 @ 09:38 PM | 5,356 Views
It's finally finished! The ultimate 1.3 Video Ground Station! TrueRC Gatling and Singularity on a ServoCity Tracker with EagleEyes for control and diversity, 7" monitor, 5.8 relay, Power Switch, E.T. PowerPanel for displaying GPS, and one switch to power up and start recording on the FPV-Japan DVR - which is powered by the onboard 8000mah 3S Lipo! All housed in a custom built CF and ABS box.

Also included are pictures of my original Ground Station, which used all the same components except the tracker, and some of radios.

Walk Around Video:
1.3ghz Video Tracker and Ground Station Walk Around (4 min 57 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Jul 10, 2015 @ 11:29 PM | 10,713 Views
This is a Basic 6 channel (1-Ail, 2-Ele, 3-Thr, 4-Rud, 5-Gear, 6-Flaps) setup for a Taranis Plus. Your channel order/assignment can be whatever you choose, just change as you wish.

This is the Inputs Screen. I have setup triple rates for Elevator and Ailerons on SE with Low (40%) Rate and 25% Expo on SEup, Mid (60%) and 35% Expo on SEmid, and High (100%) and 45% Expo on SEdown

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This is the Inputs Screen Detail for Aileron Low Rate. Note the Weight, Curve (Expo), and if you scroll down the Switch.

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This is the Mixer Screen showing Channel 5 for Gear - Down on SAup, UP on SA NOTup (i.e !SAup - the "!" means NOT) and Channel 6 for Flaps on SB with Flaps Up on SBup, Mid Flaps on SBmid, and Flaps Down on SBdown. The actual positions of Flaps UP, MID, and DOWN are controlled by Curve 1 (don't freak out, just read on...)

...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Dec 13, 2014 @ 06:33 PM | 10,894 Views
Ranger EX Thrust Angle Issues
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Dec 02, 2014 @ 03:27 PM | 13,604 Views
Volantex Ranger EX FPV

Equipment - Air Frame
1) Volantex Ranger Ex PNP version
2)FMS Main Wing Multi Connector parts 1 & 2
3) 4 Hobby King Digital Servo 2.2kg / 12.5g / .11sec (Ailerons and flaps)
4) Stock 1000kv motor and 10X5 prop (soon to be replaced with a Turnigy 3542 1250kv)

Mods - Air Frame
1) Spread the Main LG out to ~ 12" between Tire centers and added a bit of Toe-in for better ground handling
2) Used Gorilla Glue and Foam Tac to glue the two main wings halves together for increased strength. (Gorilla glue for the main wing spar, Foam Tac between the foam halves).
3) Added two strips of fiberglass reinforced tape to the bottom of the main wing for improved strength
4) Re-hinged the rudder and elevator using plastic pinned hinges
5) Applied hinge tape to the top of the main wing to reinforce the flaps and aileron hinges
6) Replaced the stock aileron and flap servos with digital metal gear units
7) Installed FMS P-51 Wing connectors on flaps and ailerons to ease wing installation and removal for transportation.
8) 65amp FMS ESC (from the parts bin after I upgraded the P-51 to a 100a CC ESC)
9) Added a washer under each of the two lower motor mounting screws to increase the down thrust. This, along with flying at 70mm COG, has greatly improved this plane's tendency to climb off throttle and dive at full throttle. If it were not for the fact that It would complicate things flying with the ET Vector I would long ago simply programmed a...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Aug 03, 2014 @ 02:53 PM | 19,498 Views
Today I once again saw a post regarding LiPo battery charging and since I always seem to see these kind of questions from NOOBS (remember we all were once!) I decided to post a clear reply. Once I got started my response quickly got into my usual method of charging multiple batteries, Parallel Charging. When I bought my first Parallel Charging Board from Hobby King about a year ago I was ASTOUNDED that it arrived with ZERO INSTRUCTIONS and quickly realized that this thing was a recipe for DISASTER in the hands of the average person. I did lots of research and found very limited info on safe practices of parallel charging but over the last year I have leaned a few things and have had excellent results charging multiple batteries at the same time. Hopefully this prevents a few disasters and makes your battery charging just a little less of a hassle.

Q: Hallo to everyone,
1 question ... I have a IMAX B6 charger and I need to know what is the best current (Amps) to use for charging the 5200 mA battery of QR X350 PRO. For now I have used 1A ... Can I set to 2A with no issues ?
TIA


A: All modern LiPo batteries can be safely charged at 1C (one times the "C"apacity rating). In this case the C rating, or capacity, is 5200mah or 5.2ah so you can safely charge these at 5.2 amps. For longest life always BALANCE CHARGE them with a quality balance charger.

In my case rather than charge each battery one at a time (I often use six or eight batteries when I go fly) I...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Jun 10, 2014 @ 09:14 PM | 16,200 Views
It seems I am always getting asked about my FrSky setup and since I am in the process of a rebuild due to a bad crash I thought I would document my FrSky setup for the benefit of others.

My goal is to fly FPV to a medium range (1-1.5 miles) to video interesting sights around the San Francisco Bay Area that I have been unable to reach with my C-47 fixed wing FPV rig due to a lack of takeoff and landing spots.

My equipment consists of:
FrSky Taranis Transmitter
FrSky D8R-XP Telemetry Receiver with battery voltage sensor
Boscam HD19 Camera
Boscam 500wm 5.8Ghz Vtx
Boscam LCD display with built-in 5.8Ghz diversity receiver
A variety of RHCP antennas

With the above setup I have flown in excess of 5800 feet with no loss of video or control link.

The first steps are to install power taps for the Camera/Vtx and the Voltage sensor that will give me live battery voltage readings on my Taranis as I fly. Also since I've confirmed one crash due to a loss of power to the receiver and the Devo-M FC I will install a 3amp UBEC and remove the leads from the on-board voltage regulator (BEC). Conveniently there are three 12v taps on the power board:
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Next is the receiver connections. I am using (and highly recommend) the FrSky D8R-XP for this application. It is a bi-directional telemetry receiver and offers two distinct advantages over other FrSky receivers. With a jumper on the signal pins of channels 3&4 it outputs CPPM on channel 1 and RSSI on channel 2. CPPM...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Feb 28, 2014 @ 03:32 PM | 10,447 Views
So I've finished installing the CF rods in the wings and made adapters for the RCLander 105 degree retracts with oleos. In addition I built an "avionics" board and wing attaching screw straps. Click on the pictures for my comments.

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Description: Here is a pic showing the location and sizes of the CF rods. I used a straight edge to mark the locations on the wing before drilling.

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Description: Here you can see the aluminum plates I epoxied into the wings for the RCLander retracts

...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Feb 11, 2014 @ 11:56 PM | 11,435 Views
I've begun installing Carbon Fiber Crash Proofing in my Hellcat. So far I've completed the vertical stabilizer, horizontal stabilizer, cowl, and fuselage. I'm waiting on more CF rods to do the wings.

Click on the pictures for descriptions/notes. Hope this helps!

I will update with pictures of the wing crash proofing as well at the LCLander install when I get to them.

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Description: Looking at the side of the fuse, I've added 4 rods the width of the fuse, 2 on either side of each wing "T-nut" just above the flat part

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Description: Looking down into the fuse at the wing "T-nuts", I added some Gorilla Glue in the recess between the nuts

...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Jun 15, 2013 @ 11:13 AM | 11,953 Views
Installation in the Dynam F6F Hellcat
Note that installation in the Dynam F4U Corsair is the same except that the Corsair does not require disassembling the retracts to extent the struts enough to fit.
Part 1:
RCLander All Metal 100 Degree retract install in Dynam Hellcat and Corsair Part 1 (16 min 4 sec)


Part 2:
RCLander All Metal 100 Degree retract install in Dynam Hellcat and Corsair Part 2 (24 min 4 sec)
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Jun 06, 2013 @ 11:39 PM | 11,871 Views
A BIG thanks to Max at ParkRCModels.com for his EXCELLENT Customer Service in getting these units to me for this review!

First watch the video, Comments after!

RCLander 100 deg All Metal Retract Quickie Review (11 min 27 sec)


I found these units on the RCLander web site and finally found them available at ParkRCModels.com. The owner, Max, was EXTREMELY helpful in answering my questions and shipped them to me US Postal Insured Priority Mail at NO CHARGE!

According to Max "We bench test everything before we ship - we won't ship anything we won't trust to fly ourselves - HOWEVER factory defects do happen - even after some use - We have a very liberal return for replacement / repair / etc policy directly from our Michigan USA warehouse - if it stops working and it has not been because of abuse or buyer mis-adventure or a crash we will generally replace it if it is from a defective or factory defect - we are more expensive than HK - however most of our products have shipping included ( orders under $20 - $3 low order fee) AND extraordinarily large cartons like our planes and jets and larger helicopters do have a actual shipping fee"

Considering the free shipping, the bench testing, the GREAT Customer Service and Warranty Policy, AND the quality of these units I was happy to pay the $69.95 price.

Once in hand a quick assessment as to the suitability of these units as replacements for the cheap Dynam gear lead me to these early conclusions:

1)...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 19, 2013 @ 01:43 PM | 13,298 Views
Turnigy all metal retracts with oleo struts: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...dProduct=31835

Oleo Struts for the main gear: http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2403

Part 1 - Strip the old fuse and repair wings: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6057

Part 2 - Prep fuse for reassembly, Carbon Fiber reinforcment for nose gear mount/firewall: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6091

Part 3 - Final Fuse assembly, CF Rod install, Retract/gear install: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6103

Some final details: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=6213

First gear test video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=szzJB_TZSgc

Gear test with one main on a separate channel with a bit of delay programmed:
Turnigy All Metal Retracts w/Oleos - test with delay (0 min 28 sec)

Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 16, 2013 @ 12:10 AM | 11,968 Views
When I got into this last year who would have ever guessed I'd have *24* batteries in 6 months?!?! Certainly NOT me!

When I bought my 3rd battery I started numbering them with a Sharpie in the order I bought them. I also started writing the name of the plane(s) I'd specifically checked that battery in for COG. Also for most planes I'd use a Sharpie to mark a reference point on the battery and then when I was happy with it's placement in the plane I'd make a corresponding mark in the battery compartment of the plane.

All was well until the number of planes, and batteries, increased to a point where memory just wasn't good enough. For one thing the Sharpie marks would wear off so I couldn't read them. So I finally sat down with ALL the batteries and put a strip of masking tape on each one then marked
  1. The number
  2. The MAH rating
  3. The "C" rating
  4. The Cell Count
  5. The name(s) of the planes it had been COGed for
  6. And any referance marks for the specific planes

THEN I covered the masking tape with shipping tape so the marks wouldn't wear off with continued use. I also have several LiPo Charging Bags that I store them in - each bag labeled by cell count:
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Then there is CHARGING!! It was begining to become a real chore to charge 4, 6, or 8 batteries after every flying session - keeping an eye on them, changing them on the charger... Then I discovered PARELLEL CHARGING BOARDS! Picked up a couple from Hobby King for a few bucks and WHAT A RELEIF!!

Here is one of the...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 15, 2013 @ 11:23 PM | 12,541 Views
Purchased 3/6/13 form Horizon Hobby

Here is my new Stryker!
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After a "Close Encounter" with Mother Earth...
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Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 15, 2013 @ 10:30 PM | 13,542 Views
Purchased 4/5/13 from MotionRC.com
Assembled 4/12 - 4/14/13

As of 5/15/13 I have not yet been able to fly her. It's been way to windy and so I continue to improve my flying/landing skills with my Dynam F4U Corsair and Dynam F6F Hellcat.

I haven't made to many modifications but I did:
  1. Install the FMS 1700 P-51 Wing Connectors
  2. Added a 5A UBEC
  3. Replaced the stock Gear Door Sequencer which required the replacement of the stock REVERSED (What's up with that FMS?!?!?) Gear Door Servos
  4. Slightly modified the battery tray and cover tang to allow for a 4200 45c 4S battery

Also since I fly from a pretty rough field I've been meaning to replace the stock strut springs with something a bit softer...

Basic assembly complete:
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Posted by Sweetieinsf | May 13, 2013 @ 09:26 PM | 17,328 Views
Although I found the Dynam Hellcat easy enough to land I thought I'd go ahead and install flaps since she is "Flaps Ready". Because I could find only one example of a flap mod on this plane (and I wasn't that sold on that setup) I decided I'd just go the route that seemed easy and effective. I used all stock Dynam parts:

6 - flap hinges - http://www.graysonhobby.com/catalog/...ck-p-2117.html
2 - stock Hellcat control horns - http://www.nitroplanes.com/60p-f6f-12-servohorn.html
2 - stock servos - http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-dy-1007.html

Also needed is a servo reverser or put each servo on a separate channel. Since I had a cheap reverser I went that route. Depending on the servos you use you may also need a couple of servo extension leads. With the stock Dynam/Detrum servos I had on hand I needed about 300mm extensions (which I've ordered since I had none that long in stock).

In these first two photos you can see I've completed the flap install on one side and this will be the goal on the other side.
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So let's get started on the other flap. This photo shows the wing stock:
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Apr 24, 2013 @ 04:10 PM | 12,349 Views
Purchased 1/28/13 from Nitro Planes.com.

Mods:
  1. Painted wing/tail tips blue on top, invasion stripes on the bottom.
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  2. Added white stars to the cowl and "Metal Illness" nose art
...Continue Reading
Posted by Sweetieinsf | Apr 16, 2013 @ 08:21 PM | 13,780 Views
OK,
I ordered this plane from NitroPlanes.com on 2/20/13 and started assembly 2/24. EASY build!

I have made the following mods:
  1. 2/24 Steerable Tail Wheel
  2. 2/24 Two additional Wing bolts
  3. 3/28 Replaced both main wheels with H.K 2.75" split-rim wheels with rubber tires and wheel covers and both ESCs (after a "swim" in San Francisco Bay...)
  4. 3/20 Installed FrSky D8R-II Plus eight channel receiver with Telemetry and Orange RX V2 3-axis Gyro
  5. 4/2 Installed FrSky Sensor Hub, External Voltage (battery) sensor, and Vario sensor
  6. 4/3 Installed H.K. 5A UBEC
  7. 4/16 Removed the Down-Thrust angle, installed PowerUp 450 Sport motors (from HeadsUp RC), MAS 8x6x3 counter rotating props
...Continue Reading