Posted by mc.horton | Sep 18, 2016 @ 11:21 PM | 1,718 Views
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Posted by JD-Slow-Thumbs | Sep 18, 2016 @ 10:54 PM | 5,092 Views
Here is another clip in my series on “Visualizing The KF-Vortex”.

Mounting a servo in the step area of the KF-Airfoil has been a very popular position for mounting servos. In this clip I demonstrate that mounting a servo here will disrupt the span-wise / sideways airflow possible in a KF-Airfoil-Vortex.

Thanks for reading

The discussion is over here,

20degreesWithServo 01 (0 min 48 sec)

Posted by RotoTillerGuy | Sep 18, 2016 @ 10:11 PM | 3,081 Views
Not known for doing things half way, I am making the plung into producing kits rather than buying kits, and not just some simple to produce kit I am going to produce the composite Fiberglass and Carbon Fiber reinforced fuselage and Tekoa Feather Cut foam core wings of the famous Telos ( Canard, Sloper Glider Sailplane ) and the Crossbow ( a Sloper Glider Sailplane version, and the Electric version ).

Mike Georgia
818 209 4967
[email protected]
Posted by tijojo972 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 08:17 PM | 3,629 Views
Bonjour a tous!!!

Je me suis lancer ce weekend dans la fabrication d'un Quadcopter A-TAIL.

Le châssis se presente comme un T a l'avant avec une queue en A moteur incliné a 45 degré comme le schéma suivant :

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Description: Châssis de mon A-tail Copter avec moteur arrière incliné a 45 degré.
Les dimensions de mon chassis sont : L=350mm  l=400mm

J'ai choisit de construire un châssis en bois avec des équerres de chaise en aluminium pour assembler le tous et une equerre troncquer 70*70*35*2 pour former la queue.

L'électronique utilisé est la suivante :
Moteurs brushless de 1400kv (acheter chez Banggood)
Batterie de 2200mah en 3S
Domino électrique pour les connexions
Receiver Turnigy 5 voie (acheter chez hobbyking)
Emetteur turnigy 5 voie (acheter chez hobbyking)

Le controleur de vol que j'ai utiliser est une CC3D flasher sous cleanflight grâce ce tutoriel de drone-about :

Le câblage du recepteur PWM sur la CC3D passée sous cleanflight est un peu différent, il faut supprimer la pin3 car non utiliser, donc le CH1 est sur le pin4.

1 Ground
2 +5V
3 Unused
4 CH1
5 CH2
6 CH3
7 CH4/Battery Voltage sensor CH4 if battery voltage sensor is disabled
8 CH5/CH4 CH4 if battery voltage monitor is enabled

Une fois cette modification faite et toutes l’électronique montée il faut passer au paramétrage de CleanFlight
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Description: ...Continue Reading
Posted by lmopar69 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 07:04 PM | 51,416 Views
Got GiaNormans wingtips done today. Coming together nicely.

Posted by epoxyearl | Sep 18, 2016 @ 06:57 PM | 18,297 Views
When I got the Voting Ballot, my first impulse was to trash it, as usual...But I thought I'd at least listen to the 'Presidential Spiel' from the candidates.

Well well well,Mr. Lawrence Tougas said all the things I wanted to hear.

Kick the Multi Rotors to the side, and let them start their own Special Interest Group.

The first line of unconscientious operators set modeling back 40 years....even causing the FAA to step in, and institute a raft of rules that are causing heartburn through the ranks of sensible fliers.

I immediately voted for this man, and made the trip to the Post Office to mail it the same day.

The AMA has lost it's way. becoming money hungry, and begging for money on the streets, on the internet, and through paper publications..
There are still people that believe the AMA has a 'workable ' insurance plan....poor folks...
What a surprise when they file a claim !
Posted by Jack Crossfire | Sep 18, 2016 @ 04:32 PM | 3,540 Views
The ganged batteries made their debut 18.6 mile drive. Speed was reduced to 9:30 on account of the heat, which translated to 10:00 after PWM errors. The fuse didn't heat up. After the drive, both batteries were cold.

It was quite luxurious to not have to stop the run, squat, & change batteries. You have no idea what a pain that was for 1st 3 years of robotic exercise coaching.

Battery #2 in the low tray took 4545mAh. Battery #1 in the payload bay took 3294mAh. So they discharged as expected, but it was a quite high current draw. They carried water for 7.5 miles with 5 miles uphill. Need to swap battery trays to see if it was cable loss or internal resistance.

The wiring was redone to handle more current & gain a fuse. The fuse in the apartment was a polyfuse which started blowing at 3A. It was delayed proportional to the current. 3A took a long time. 8A blew it almost instantly. It got hot, never cut off, but allowed a current below 1A after blowing & continued heating. It would probably explode if the batteries shorted, but it's better than the wire bursting into flames. An HRC fuse would be nice. The normal cruising current with 2 batteries is 1.2A - 1.7A if they're balanced. It might blow on a hill or if the human goes real fast.

The once dubious LED arrangement turned out pretty respectable in its ability to light a large area.

The attempt to glue the wheels failed. The rubber flexed. They instantly popped out of the glue & spun the same as before.
Posted by Libelle201B | Sep 18, 2016 @ 03:16 PM | 35,997 Views
These pictures were taken about a month or so ago, taken by our fellow flyer Kit at the Pompano FL hill. He does some excellent photography
In any event this is a 40 yr old design that still performs very well, it's light wing loading, simplicity and aerodynamic design is a real plus for fun flying today. No, it won't take hi power winch launches that seem to be required now a days to get your "time", negating much of any soaring knowledge, or the ability to land like a lawn dart of sorts for points, and calling that a "landing". I guess I am a traditionalist rc soaring pilot of sorts. This weekend the Monterey soared from a low 'up start' bungie launch half the altitude of the winch launched hi tech planes and easily made or maxed their altitude, it isn't all about technology
Posted by prunnerX | Sep 18, 2016 @ 03:05 PM | 2,844 Views
Our club has our annual fall fly-in yesterday. We had 41 pilots and some very nice big birds present. My sort of tattered 1/3 scale BUSA Sopwith Pup still gets compliments, which surprises me a bit considering some of the truly fantastic planes that were present.
I did prove to myself that I can land the Pup in a 90deg cross wind.
I figure if I brought the plane to the field and took the time to set it up I'm either going to fly it or dump it. I have to admit she looks really cool side slipping on final.
Posted by Getto Bird | Sep 18, 2016 @ 03:00 PM | 14,779 Views
In one word "WOwwwww" Just did my maiden flight and I tell ya, this little bird is sweet. My first CP so I took it easy at on 6g and low rates. I flew 5 packs of in-tail hovers, slow figure 8's. Man, loads of power. I really like this one.
Posted by lmopar69 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 02:01 PM | 51,100 Views
Finished up the center of the wing today. Now to start on the wingtips.

Posted by Adam2016 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 01:25 PM | 2,008 Views
The H8 Eachine Mini is small sized quadcopter.
Despite the small dimensions, in the opinion of experts, this RC model is flying pretty well.

First steps

The kit includes all the necessary stuff: controls, spare screws (two pieces), screwdriver, charger, undercarriage with adhesive tape. The screwdriver will come in handy to unscrew the battery cover latch screw fixing. Charger connects via the USB port.
While the unit is charging, the charger emits a constant light. As soon as the LED starts blinking the charging process is completed.

Mastering the remote controller is easy: a couple of sticks, trimmers for the three channels. The controller is powered by three "AAA" batteries. However, the latter are not included in the kit. Therefore, their purchase should be taken care of in advance.


Buyers point out many advantages in this model. In particular, properly implemented lights, the LEDs are located towards the bottom. In some versions, they are aimed at the propellers, so either it is a day or night position of the quadcopter is hard to determine. Here it is all clear: blue lights are the back side and the red lights indicate the front side of the copter.

• Frequency: 2.4 Hz;
• 6 axis gyroscope;
• Dimensions 11 * 11 * 2.8 cm;
• Total weight up to 20 g;
• Recharges in approximately 45 minutes;
• Flight duration: up to 7 minutes;
• Flight range: 30 meters;
Typically, the model is available in black or white...Continue Reading
Posted by Black_Angel | Sep 18, 2016 @ 01:13 PM | 23,128 Views
25 years ago i buy and built a rc trainer with the name coyote Olympic but i ended up never flying it..Years later i ended up as a very active glider pilot fling large glider up to near 4 meters wingspan. After some years out of rc i started up again i year ago with helies, so now i will finely get a rc motor plane build and flied.

I don't have any real flying field here, just some rough field, so its very limited what i can take of and land here, so i ended up with a Senior Telemaster, who i will build with flaps who help reduce take off and landing speed and distance.

I dowloaded Senior Telemaster plans from OuterZone, printet it on Ma lazer printer and cutted and taped the whole plans together to big full size plans.

Here is my plan for setup and some other project details:

Update: Took some photos today.. Last days i got started om one main wing also.. On last image (fuselage) i have photo some of my changes: i used carbon strips and balsa covered bottom to make fuselage stronger

UPDATE: here are some photos of ongoing building:

Telemaster Senior 95 inch Span
I buy laser cut short kit from Balsaworkbench, He is here on RCG..
My other balsa i buyed from Aliexpress Store: Magic Power Toy&Hobby Co.,Ltd

I buyed lots of sheets for 3 or more projects i planed, the i use hk Master Airscrew - Balsa Stripper to cut what i need. Its cutting upto 12mm thick sheets after i build it up to handle this.

Motor is NTM Prop Drive Series 42-58 500kv / 1300w
From Hk

Esc i...Continue Reading
Posted by phil alvirez | Sep 18, 2016 @ 12:57 PM | 5,526 Views
i have built 3 identical wings for my 2 meters sailplanes.
they look alike and the only difference is that the last 1 has some spars of carbon fiber instead of spruce.
i can use them in several fuselages.
with 2 of them i have found that some times they flutter and worries me because the plane can loose its wings in any moment.
when gave them a closer look the only difference i could find was that the 1 that does fine has a turbulator at the leading edge (a piece of thread that is about 1/16" and runs at the neutral point of the leading edge).
so i added a thread at the leading edge to the 2nd and 3 threads at several positions along the chord to the 3rd and tested them today.
the 2nd with 1 string at the leading edge still had the flutters.
then tried the 3rd with 4 turbulators. no flutter!
then to the 2nd with 1 i added 3 more turbulators: again, no flutter!
so seems that turbulators not only improve the efficiency and stability but get rid of flutters too.
more tests to come.
now i got flutters again-that was with wing #3 and a short foamy fuselage. but same wing with 2 fiberglass/cf does fine.
need to do more tests. same plane flew fine after having flutters the day before. but also happens when the plane is going fast.
1 thing that i learned is that with the turbulators, the speed increases noticeably, so the more turbs the faster the plane. this may be good for windy weather, but as my goal is to thermal, are not what i need. they increase stability, but at the expense of loosing ability to thermal. you get stability in exchange of maneurability, and you loose sensitivity to thermals and the turning radius is larger. so, 1 thing or the other.

it is 1 of the things of the air, that takes some time to confirm your impressions.
(by the way, near the end of page 11 of this blog there is more on turbulators, if you want to see all that i have learned about it).
Posted by hercules76 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 12:11 PM | 2,022 Views
Any one has original phantom 4 remote control antenna to sell? Maybe someone who made remote control modification and don't need the originals!?
Posted by AcroMode20 | Sep 18, 2016 @ 12:00 PM | 4,844 Views
Managed to fit a quick flight in just before dark with my mini quad.
Hope you enjoy!
Frame: Diatone 250
Motors: Multistar 2204 2300kv
ESCs: Afro 20amp race spec with oneshot
Flight controller: Naze 32 rev 5
Battery: HobbyRC Race spec 1400mah 4s
FPV camera: Runcam 600tvl ccd
Vtx: Quanum 200mw 40ch

Sunset freestyle fun (3 min 48 sec)

Posted by xardinen | Sep 18, 2016 @ 11:40 AM | 8,236 Views
I just turned my Eachine e010 into a FPV fun machine. Now it's a real tiny whoop for the fraction of the blade inductrix price! Read more here
Posted by BernardW | Sep 18, 2016 @ 10:17 AM | 7,374 Views
I've sat down to work on the model but there are 2 or 3 little greeblies that I think are called sand-flies, little tiny beggars, sometimes they fly in a square doing these pure 90 degree turns. They are driving me insane! They haven't touched me and they don't make any noise I can hear, but they are THERE whenever I look up and I notice them so often I'm getting a complex about it. Now, I don't believe these hard-working, decent insect folk who are just trying to make a living, deserve to die just for being born as what they are, least of all when they haven't hurt, offended or stolen from me, but it's my base nature, I want to flatten them. But I can't. I should have been a Buddhist. Nrrrgh I'm obviously going to let them drive me even more crazy... the question is, were they born in my place, if so where, what are they feeding on and what must I clean? They've grown to (relatively) gigantic size, in just days I've seen them reach almost a good 2mm long from less than half that... they're feeding, growing... can I harness their power for my model? I can't bring myself to spray bugs, it's not right, they suffer and struggle, I can't be responsible for doing that to others of my Maker's creation. Plus, that's just filling my own home with poisons and suspect propellants... We don't like it when bugs poison US, so what gives me the right, eh?