Posted by bigtruck169 |
Feb 07, 2017 @ 09:41 AM | 1,738 Views
You have to keep in mind that surface vehicles use 50% throttle for "neutral". So the only way your vehicle would stop with no throttle and no brakes would be with the throttle stick at 50%. All the way down would be applying full brakes..... unless.....
Here is An Idea....
Set up the car under a helicopter memory and use a throttle curve with 50% throttle when the stick is all the way down, 75% at mid stick, and 100% at full throttle. Then put the brake servo on the rudder channel, so that you pull the throttle all the way down for neutral, then use left or right on the same stick for brakes.... Actually thinking about it, that could work really well, and you wouldn't have to worry about modifying the radio with a spring on the throttle, making it useless for planes!!! You could also use the idle up switch as sort of a failsafe to keep the throttle servo from moving when you dont want it to. Set the "normal" throttle curve with 50% throttle on all 5 points, so when the switch is in the 'normal' setting the throttle servo will stay at "neutral" regardless of throttle position, the heli version wont send a throttle signal if you turn it on with the idle up switch in a position other than normal. Then set the points under "stunt 1" like this: L=50%, 1=inh, 2=75%, 3=inh, H=100%. That will give you a linear throttle from neutral to full throttle by moving the stick from 0% to 100% (the bottom to the top), instead of having to stay above 50% on the stick.
Have you ever wondered…
Which brand of battery is better? Are they all the same? Is the “Industrial” version better than the regular version, or how about the “Plus” version? Does “Heavy Duty” mean it works better? Are the private labeled batteries rejects from the name brand battery manufacturers?
I found myself wondering the same things, and decided to do a series of tests.
I picked a variety of batteries. While my list is far from exhaustive, I think this is a good representation. The graphs are pretty full, but if I have made any glaring omissions, additional data may be added in table form.
Alkaline battery capacities are listed at a reduced load that is typically well below the demands of a lot of our lights. The capacity is reduced at higher load levels. Energizer lists the following capacities for comparison:
AAA 1.250 Amp Hours
AA 2.850 Amp Hours
C 8.350 Amp Hours
D 18.000 Amp Hours
Posted by bigtruck169 |
May 07, 2015 @ 02:29 PM | 4,426 Views
cheap DLG for $75 with hotwire foam -https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1532669
old thread, but lots of talk on the hotwire material -https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=436753
Posted by bigtruck169 |
Apr 29, 2015 @ 09:56 AM | 4,518 Views
LED Lumen to Watt
To replace a 100-watt incandescent bulb, look for a bulb that gives you about 1600 lumens. If you want something dimmer, go for less lumens; if you prefer brighter light, look for more lumens.
Replace a 75W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 1100 lumens
Replace a 60W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 800 lumens
Replace a 40W bulb with an LED bulb that gives you about 450 lumens
KONTRONIK FUN480 3300KV WITH KPG4.2
COMES IN ORIGINAL BOX.
My plans changed i decided to go pylon instead of folder.
i'd like $120 plus shipping and fees, so $130 out the door
you could do the following setups on this
13x8 on 3S, pulling 38A, glider, warmliner to 2.5m, Siren, Orion, all esprit glider etc..
14x6 on 3S pulling 31A, glider, very warmliner up to 2.5m (slower, more thrust)
10x12 on 3S pulling 45A small pylon racer, 50", decent speed, Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, plasma etc.. sunracer
10x12 on 4S pulling 74A, fly burst, up to 8 seconds throttle, Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, plasma etc.. sunracer
10x17 on 4S pulling 90A, fly burst up to 5 seconds throttle. Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, . sunracer, xplane, viper
14x14 on 4S, fly on switch, 3 to 4 seconds burst, 100A ESC
Swift, or reverb from hobbyking, . sunracer, xplane, viper
12.8x13 on 4S fly on switch,...Continue Reading
Creating a solid mount for the motor is imperative. Attach wood to the inside of the hull with epoxy and mount your motor mount to the wood. Be warned that the plastic hulls are generally on the thin side and will have a good amount of give to them. This is another reason to use wood to stiffen the area where the motor mounts. Don't be surprised if there is some slight "twisting" of the hull when the motor is fully torqued.
When getting a rudder, it is possible to get a rudder with a built in water pick-up for the cooling system. When using these, it is very important to get the prop as close as possible to the rudder. The prop wash is what forces the water through the tubing. No prop wash, no flow. The forward motion of the boat is NOT enough to move the water through the tubes. (Learned that one the hard way
Posted by bigtruck169 |
Feb 17, 2015 @ 10:28 AM | 7,121 Views
1 hp = 746 Watts.
EDF - 85% exhaust reduction Fan swept area( FSA)
you want it the exact same size as the rear of the edf tube, but in a normal configuration, you could vary the size of the opening depending on what speed you want more thrust at... a smaller opening will give less initial thrust, but will give more thrust when the plane is up to speed, allowing a higher top speed, where a larger opening will give more initial thrust, but will give less thrust once the plane is up to speed, meaning a lower top speed....
FSA caluclater - https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1160865 http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/info...alculator/#FSA
the longer the inlet duct, the larger the inlet area should be. a good compromise would be an 85% FSA inlet, with an 85% FSA exhaust area. as a rule of thumb, you should never go smaller on the inlet, than the exhaust are
Intake area depends on the complexity of the internal ducting. corsair Nut had and F86 with an intake area roughly 70% of FSA and it performed very well. With a straight duct, smaller intake.area will work well. In complex shaped duct, I doubt that intake area would have worked as well.
Having said that, try to aim.for an intake area between 85% and 100% of your fans FSA. This will give you the beas performance overall. The smaller the intake area, the faster your top end speed will be, but static performance will be lower.
Thanks Pete, I did install on 3 different computers, but I HAVE THE ANSWER, Yippee! Late last night someone mentioned that a Naza M Lite, which I have, will not work with Assistant 2.14. There is a different version of Assistant, specially for the Lite. I can't believe that nobody thought to mention it. My experience so far is that the equipment is lovely but the information is absolutely useless. What else would you buy for hundreds of pounds and then have to ferret about on Youtube to try and find how to use it?
DOH, yep I run Assistant 2.12 for my V1's and Assistant Lite V1.00 for my lite.
I still need to do this:
1. Important: TAKE OFF THE PROPELLERS OR DISCONNECT ONE WIRE FROM THE MOTORS!!
2. Turn off the KK2.0 FC power.
3. Turn on the transmitter and set the throttle to max.
4. Press down button 1 and 4 on the KK2.0 FC, keep pressing until last step. Releasing the buttons aborts the calibration.
5. Turn on power to the KK2.0 FC (hope you have several arms/hands).
6. Wait for the ESCs to beep full throttle calibrated signal. Takes a few seconds, depends on the ESC.
7. Lower the throttle to idle.
8. Wait for the ESC idle throttle calibrated signal.
9. Release the buttons on the KK2.0 FC. ...Continue Reading