Ive seen molds touched molds wetted glass but Ive never attempted a layup...until now. First the part was shaped from foam, then covered with a coat of resin. After the resin dried it was sanded smooth. After that the part is waxed. Layers of 4-6oz were applied until we thought it was thick enough. The proccess was done in reverse to make the part inside the mold. What could have been better is if PVA was used in the mold making proccess too, because only wax was used it was not enough. This made it more difficult to pull the plug out and clean the mold. Removing the part was easy but pulling on it made creases. The part is extra big so the creases will be cut away.

pics of a Halfpipe 60 build for Norco season...

As I posted before, my mini macchi was in need of a restoration, and because of its small size it's the perfect plane to practice new techniques on. I wanted to try bagged wings instead of sheeted since my last 2 wings haven't survived a decent crash.

My first set turned out fine, the glass lauded down good and the mylars I had worked good too. The only thing was they cured at night, outside. The cold plus the fact I used older resin meant it never cured and was tacky out of the bag. They were good proof-of-concepts but not usable

The second set was the same thing just done in warmer temperatures and wrapped in brown paper vs paper towels. The brown paper is smooth and is easier to remove than the paper towels. However my leading edges weren't shaped and put of the bag they were very sharp. Also when I cut the ailerons I used the diamond cutter vs the xacto blade. BIG MISTAKE. It made the cut choppy and was a pain to get straight. This meant I had to use a lot of bondo both on the LE, Balsa TE, and the wingtips. Of course after slathering 5lbs of bondo on the wing I forgot how much of a b&tch sanding bondo is. After 5 hours of sanding I got maybe halfway there. The wing fell off the table and cracked at the wingtip. This made me realize that by the time the wing is sanded enough, the sharp LE is actually very weak and prone to break in a crash. Is decided to stop where I'm at and bag a 3rd set...
Attachment 5308721Attachment 5308729



I did my 3rd set...Continue Reading

Well the wind was around 12-14mph so I finally got to maiden the pitchleron (covered this time), launched it and it flew straight out just like the first maiden. Although this time, the speed and energy was impressive! Just as fast as a Moth, but rolls like a drillbit!!!! Loops were easier, inverted performance is good, and the RG-14 airfoil made a nice, almost mouldie-like whistle . It was still a little tail-heavy and it had a bad tuck on the dives, so 3/4oz was added and the tuck virtually dissapeared. Unfortunatley the flight was short-lived, after crashing into a bush, the brass joiner tube bent and the little zip-tie that secured the wing came un-done. So I got a solid 1/4" steel tube so that shouldn't happen again. Once again I'm really happy with the outcome !!!
Specs:

Wingspan: 48"

Weight: 24oz

Airfoil: RG-14

EPP pitcheron (2 min 55 sec)

**NEW** UPDATED build manuals for my glider kits. They are in PDF format so if you need the instrustions just download the attachment(s). They are also available on my website www.slopewingsgliders.com.

So I've been looking around for a nice switch jack, and everyone seemed to reccomend the NCFM "Blackjack" for it's internal mechanics and reliabiltiy. I peeked at their site to check out these bad boys. It looked like a really great switch, until I checked the price tag . Being a DIY kinda guy, I looked around the internet for another alternative switch jack, and so I paid Radioshack a visit today and I was able to make a nice switch jack for under $7!! Heres how I did it...

DC Coaxial power jack: http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102599 :if you'd like a smaller jack you may have to go into your local Rshack and look, this was the smallest size they had.

DC Coaxial power plug (2pack, nice to have just in case):
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102488

soldering equipment and experience

a standard rc switch+ charge plug like this:
http://www.americanpioneerhobbies.com/parts/18.gif, or if you have the same 3 plugs laying around, that'll work too...


Now, follow this article and be sure your wiring is secure and wrapped with insulation (heatshrink-electricians tape, etc): http://www.californiasailplanes.com/Powerjack.html

What I did was after covering the exposed solder, I squirted a bit of hot glue, so the wires have no way of bending towards eachother.

-Jordan

The Monarch is a small, versaitle plank that was designed for extremely light winds and yet doen't need ballast when the wind picks up. It has a 40" wingspan and weighs approx. 12-14oz (depens on build).

Here is the maiden of the fist Monarch prototype, flown in a 15mph+ breeze with no ballast, 14.3oz AUW:

Monarch 40" EPP plank prototype (2 min 22 sec)

Some of my first builds ever...

I call it the Lil' Lightnig, 24" wing flying in 25+ without ballast, 10oz weight here's a link to the thread https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1180716

24" "Lil' Lightning" rc wing (3 min 7 sec)

Well today was EPIC!!!! winds about 30mph right up the hill flew for about an hour then lost my wing gonna try and find it tomorrow, here's a vid:

Combatwing at El Salvador, San Clemente (3 min 30 sec)