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Archive for January, 2016
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 21, 2016 @ 04:31 AM | 12,027 Views
Finally, decent flying weather, FX067 - AS355 maiden

Flies like a gem, smooth, fast and composed, well pleased. minor tweaks only

FX067 chassis
FX071 PCB
Brushless main hobbymate HB2626 4200 kv 10 t pinion
2200 35C battery, giant power, big and powerful. did two 7 1/2 minute flights !
trimmed to heck 070 main blades
071 step up tail with V913 tail blade.
CF boom
LED lights
servo slower (dial back the feedback from the pcb in 6g) and aftermarket servos

i do need to weigh it, feels solid when flying, but power off on banked turns and it noses in some. cut 070 main rotor is the secret to getting 067's to fly nice

LOTS of work to get here.....

FX AS355 (8 min 33 sec)

Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 05, 2016 @ 10:19 PM | 10,129 Views
Good buddy windy heap sent me a 9115 monster trick for xmas, cheers mate. dave really rates these as allot of bang for ya buck so keen to get a look over it and do some basic setup before running it up.

I did note that the motor does not have a built in cooling fan like some of the other 390 motors ive seen, decide a big heat sink would be beneficial. I had a spare Feiyue FY motor heat sink in the spares pile, so on it went. I trimmed two of the fins on the front edge rather than cut the front of the motor cover, which acts as a stiffener for the lower chassis tray. I trimmed out an opening in the top to suit.

The good thing about this heat sink is the fins increase in height across the unit, i had the short fins to the front and the taller fins to the rear, this exposed all the fin tips to the cooling airflow under the body shell running over the top of the chassis

Initial running indicated plenty of heat being pulled out through the cooling fins thats for sure.

http://www.banggood.com/Feiyue-Heat-...-p-996968.html

Greased all the gearbox gears whilst i was in there, let the fun begin !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 05, 2016 @ 09:41 PM | 12,647 Views
I have two FY03s this is really good for side by side comparisons on setups. Have noticed the green units motor seems to lack power and acceleration compared to the "red rocket".

Whilst i do have a spare stock motor to hand i also have a "400" walkera heli motor, bench testing indicated a no load 28,000 rpm vs 21,000 for the stocker. The walkera's internal fan unit pushes allot more cooling air, and the FY cooling fins fit, with a bit of trimming to clear the cooling holes on the slightly shorter walwera motor can.

Reviews elsewhere have reported the walkera motor to be a very good performer in brushed off road rc cars typically running 380 sized can motors, So in it goes !

Given the higher rpm capability i fitted the smaller 22t pinion that comes with the FY . Stock is 26t and a 24 and 22 come in the spares bag. The teeth number is actually stamped on the end of the cog if you look closely.

When i crunched the gear numbers 22/26 x 28,000 = 23,692 rpm

23,692/21,000 = 12.8% speed gain. Nice lets see how it pulls ?

Good news is the walkera has a bucket load of power and smokes the tires way better than the red rocket and the speed is there as well. Will try the 24t as well !

Good news, this motor is cheaper than the FY replacement from Banggood

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Wa...1-p-51159.html

The wires are reverse on the walkera to the FY, i swapped at the FY power plug rather than resolder...... Opps.....

Motor shaft is the same size, 2mm. The motor shaft is a fraction shorter, i run the FY gear spun around so the grub screw is on the motor side. I also use loctite gear bearing retainer to hold the gear then set the grub screw. Walkera motor mounting holes are a perfect line up. Pretty easy so far.

In the helis this motor runs on 3S so it should be reliable as under the 2S in the truggy; it should provide a long service life.

More crash testing to follow ! But looking good !
Posted by kiwi_craig | Jan 02, 2016 @ 04:01 AM | 10,198 Views
Been noticing the differentials being notchy and rough.

Initial strip down there is only minimal grease in the diff housing, pulled the drive shafts and diff head,

pulled the bearings, all dry, and soaked these in CRC Tac-2, this penetrates into the bearings and leaves a tacky lubricant.

Pulled the three cap screws holding the crown wheel on, need a 2.5mm hex head, and opened up the differential, minimal to bugger all grease, using a grease gun i pressurised the entire assembly, it took a bucket load of grease to fill it flush. Refitted the pinion gear.

Pressure grease into all the bearings as well as the Tac-2, bearings where an odd mix of open and closed bearing races.

Filled the diff housings full with grease to overflowing, it was squishing out on finally assembly, basically you cant have to much in there ! It needs to be swimming in it for it to work well.

Buttoned up again, boy what a differeence, the entire assembly runs smooth now. After 5 minutes running the entire assemblies are butter smooth - big improvement to how it drives as well

Basically the same process for the front diff, front housing unbolts with the main housing still in the chassis, drop the half shafts and the diff comes on out. Same setup and same bugger all grease...... Pack the spiders full and then the main housing, job done.

Start at the last photo and work up !...Continue Reading