kiwi_craig's blog View Details
Archive for November, 2014
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 22, 2014 @ 11:27 PM | 8,006 Views
Tested the FF200 / EH 200 brushless motors using the hobbyking power draw meter.

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=54845

http://http://cdn.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/catalog/28860.jpg

1/. V915. EH200. 4100kv. 10t pinion.
2/. V912. FF200. 5000kv. 9t pinion.
3/. FX071. FF200. 5000kv. 9t pinion.

Identical 1000mah batteries used

1/ Constant Watts 83. Amps 11.4
2/. Constant Watts 87, Burst 96 W.
3/. Burst watts 125! Could have been a bit of a one off couldn't get it to read that again, burst amps 15.7. Constant watts 87 at max steady rpm.

Seems max constant load is around 12 amps 85 - 87 watts, But hard throttle burst can see 15 - 16 amps and maybe ? 120 watts burst power. All machines pulling similar head speed rpm.

More testing needed but a neat device.

Toggle between volts , amps and watts, both current reading and peak. Peak values stored in the memory and can be toggled back through. Tad tricky holding the heli, setting max power and toggling through the modes. Light enough to attach and fly it.


Turnigy esc setup tool, super easy to use, makes esc setup a breeze.....
http://cdn.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2169
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 21, 2014 @ 04:32 PM | 7,398 Views
Parts list

FF200. 5000kv brushless main motor
Turnigy plush 18A esc
Xtreme brushed to brushless converter
9t. 10T 2.13mm pinion
2.0mm soldered push plugs
M2.5 x 12mm button head motor mount screws
Shrink wrap
Cable ties

Brushless pics.

Esc is out back in the lower chassis section behind the drive gear. Simply not enough room to fit it under the canopy.

Wiring all runs along the rhs up to the board. Canopy covers the main motor wiring nicely. I use 2.0mm soldered plugs on each part for ease of assembly and servicing. converter sits on top of the main board along with the 5v to 3.3v converter for the leds. Bit more of a tidy up needed here.

Trimmed the chassis plate side cheeks off to improve clearance to the brushless main.

Used the wl brushless plastic motor mount this allows the motor to move forward to get pinion clearance with the 9t pinion. And allows the motor wiring to clear the lower chassis plate. 12mmm long M2.5 mm cap screws to secure the FF200 motor. Stock WL brushless uses M3's

WL plastic mount has two internal ribs on one side that need to be trimmed by around 1mm to get the motor to sit square in the adapter. Trim the curved rib off the underside as well so the mount sits flat on the chassis plate.

9t pinion fixed with loctite bearing retainer compound, it was a tight fit anyway so need to worry with the locking grub screw....... Had to elongate the chassis plate screw mount holes to get the pinion mesh right.

As reported head speed increased by 350 plus rpm which is gonna addd allot of FFF capability......

The brushless mains run allot smoother than the the brushed motors, noticeable reduction in vibration levels through the airframe.

About $40 for everything. Job done
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 17, 2014 @ 03:01 AM | 7,546 Views
starting work on the FX071 PCB / FBL rotor head conversion.......... Complete bodies are so cheap on these, and BG has the FX parts super cheap as well so why not, get rid of the flybar and gain agility and speed.....

Chassis now sorted for the FX rotor head, biggest headache was the swash is longer at the pin guide so refabed all that to suit.

Going to test a variety of brushless mains EH200 / FH200 & WL's 912 unit. Main motor is allot easier to change out than the pod n boom birds......... got a amps / volts meter coming to measure power draws

WL brushless plastic motor mount is a tight fit on the FH200 / 5000kv main, its 1mm larger in dia, hot water and persistence and it fitted.

Servo arms wire rods. Short to long. 912. 913. 915. Add the longer 913 top section to the 915 wire rods = perfect length to reach the taller FX swash. 913 link ends are to tight on the 912 ball end but perfect on the FX swash ball heads. Note how the FX swash has all the ball ends running on the same plane = smoother operation.

Just waiting on esc and converter and in it goes, gonna hate using that rubbish FX tx though.....
Posted by kiwi_craig | Nov 07, 2014 @ 06:39 PM | 7,857 Views
Alrighty, picked up a turnigy HS2213 2640kv on amazon dirt cheap, normally these motors are $$$$.

These are rated at 26 amps 280 watts max continous, and 380 watts max burst at 3S.

My rough calcs indicate the stock 390 bruhed main pulls around 170 watts continuous over a 6 1/2 minute flight, this motor will be well enough imo. going to run a 10t pinion to start with, stock is 9t, and maybe try an 11t if it pulls the 10 easy enough. Brushless motors are most efficent at cruise rather than revving hard so will be trial and error re gearing vs response and power consumption.


Decided to in the motor 180 degrees and have the wires exiting to the rear and flopped the esc over, see last two pictures. Esc will need to move back a fraction more i think to clear the front fire wall in the heli shell.