Quick and easy build. You can find these plans here. http://genius.x0.com/pmdirectory/mamecraft/x29g.html
AUW 6 grams, 11cm wingspan, 17 cm length.

This is probably the largest X-Twin I have built, 71cm wingspan, 57 cm length, 35.3 gram AUW. The thrust of the two 7mm X-Twin motors amounts to nearly 25 grams so there is plenty of power to fly this big ugly flying freak! You can find these plans from Fiddlers Green, I used the large X-15 launching version, I think it is the nicest version. It took me about 7 hours to do this bird up, from bare wall foam and tissue to final finish. I left out the 3rd channel option as on previous B-52 models that I built I found that this function is not really needed for scale bomber jet flight. The wheels really turn, the axle is simply a toothpick through a plastic straw glued to the depron wheels....Continue Reading

Chinese colors Mig-15 from Fiddlers Green plans. I used some interesting components from a new indoor RC plane. AUW 12 grams, Length 18 cm, Wingspan 17 cm. Flies like a space rocket on drugs. Note the transparent plastic horizontal extension to increase control authority in turns. The wallfoam and tissue airframe is reinforced with carbon fibre as this setup is built for speed....Continue Reading

This particular Sabre is twice the size of the previous Sabre model in a prior blog post yet it uses the same X-Twin components from the Original Silverlit Biplane. 19.2 grams AUW, 34cm wingspan, 36 cm length. Flies gracefully and authentically....Continue Reading

I have started to make a RC-PLC (ComputerRadio/Mixer or whatever you whant to call it).

I normaly fly helis but bought myself an airplane witch needs deltamixing.
My stock e-sky heli radios are not configurable and i am out of money.

Well i work with Buildingautomation where we use PLC's, and i am in to AVR microprocessors so i thought why not make a PLC-like computerradio.

I see a few posibilites:

1. Interfacing the trainerport on a stock transmitter
2. Modyfying a stock radio, just keeping the electronics for the RF part.
3. Using it for onboard applications.

Since the trainerport signal on my e-sky radios are allready mixxed, i went for option 2.

I measured and documented the signals on my transmitter (E-Sky CP2) circuitboard and cut it in two.
Ripped out the mixxing part and keept the part with the RF-Transmitter.

I have now successfully connected my sticks on the radio to an ATMega16 processor.

Today i am starting with the windows-based "RC-PLC Configtool", i will drop some pictures of circuitboard and screendumps of the program.

She's getting there...

If its not raining its windy gotta wait for nicer weather!

One more color - then touch up...

All this masking and preparing is taking longer than I thought.
I got some white on the underside of the nose, and got the deck tan on the fuse and tail. Pics below.

When I was looking for an EPP 3d trainer I called 3dhs, these planes came highly recommended so I gave them a whirl. Below is a review I left for e-foamies.com:


After an unfortunate car melting incident with my beloved e-foamies extra I immediately when looking for my new fix. At that point in time the extras were sold out so I purchased the new Edge instead. Needless to say I could not be more happy.

First impressions were that the fues is identical to the extra, however the wing with its straight wing cord, and smaller tips greatly improves the stiffness of the wing. Building was uneventful as I had previously built an e-foamies bird before. I did learn a couple of things though.

1. I glued wooded tabs on the outside of the fues to screw mount the servos to. This lets you not have to glue the servo's in place should you strip one, and provides just as solid of a mount.
2. Fues stiffening--Although epp is just about perfect for a 3d training adding two 1/8 carbon rods the length of the fues( i placed mine on the bottom pushed to the outboard corners prior to gluing the bottom cover plate on), greatly improves the fues stiffness withut adding much weight. I found the fues stiffness to be helpful when learning manuevers such as rolling harriers.
3. Gear--mount the landing gear through wood blocks as well instead of the foam.
4. Use bigger servo's in the tail. I found on my extra i was constantly stripping tail servo's from tail touches, tail draggs and the...Continue Reading

The 3dhs 55" yak was my first experience getting into a "larger" model. Needless to say I am hooked. The 3dhs yak still maintains the yak tendancies (big ole bucket of air) however she flys better than the 47". This is largley due to the fact that she's an over all bigger and heavier plane, but also because she has the Scott stoops airfoil.

My yak was one of the first to come out in the vibrant "raspberry purple. With the color brought a great thought for a decal scheme.

From original post

"In the year 1927 a Gentlemen by the name of A.S. Yakolev started an Aircraft design company. His designs ranged from mail planes , to world war 2 and jet fighter aircraft, to commercial airliners, to some of the most beautiful aerobatic aircraft we love to model today. Unfortuanetly the world lost Mr. Yakolev in 1989, however his little avaiation company that he started with some fellow engineers and airplane lovers continues to run strong today. In the year 2007 The A.S. Yakolev Design Bureau celebrated its 80th successful year in business.

Upon reading the history of the Yakloev company nothing made more sense than to honor Mr. Yakolev's accomplishments. The color purple is throughout Russian history, seen as a color of royality, honor and strength, it is found amoung the domes of the Kremlin. Fitting then that a royal purple Yak -54 be used to honor Mr. Yakolevs 80 years of accomplishments.

I present the 3dhs 55" Yak-54 in Yakolev...Continue Reading

I said it once when we saw protoype videos "That thing is sick" pretty much sums up how I still feel about the Velox. It is a violent tumbling little machine that is just as comfortable upside down spinning viloently towards earth as it is rocketing to the heavens for a clean loop.


The velox was the first of the 47" inch 3dhs models to have airfoiled tail surfaces, this prompts an intese pitch althority that really makes the velox one in its own. I have never seen air plane on high rates able to tumble end over end and not lose altitude, its simply amazing to watch. With the pitch authority comes rock solid harriers---down low and slow the velox loves it. High speed walls into to hover--the velox loves it, knofe edge double snap back to knife edge--the velox loves it.

This is the 3d airplane you want to simply beat the snot out of to see what she can take.

Take offs and landings are cake walks---much like the Katana--a little bit of speed and she drops right in. Too windy for a traditional approach---harrier her to the ground!

Here is my Velox powered with a torque 2814/820, AB 45 elite esc, 4s hyperion packs, hs65mg servo's, and a Xoar 12X7. Decals are my design created by scottsrc.com. Please note although you may be able to find the graphics at other locations on the net. The original design and artwork is mine and scotts rc's.

My personal favorite, and unfortunately discontinued for better up coming projects. If you able to get you hands on one, do it--she is a dream come true.

The Katana is a Precision/3d Hyprid, and of of the very first releases from 3dhs. Sleek fues with long tail moment, large wing fillets tapering to thin tipped wings make this bird scream speed and grace.

The Katana was designed pre Scotts Stoops, meaning it does not have the Scott Stoops Airfoil which makes the SHP so forgiving. It is however still very capable of what ever you want to trow at it, she'll harrier with some wing rock, she'll hover with a fair ammount of input, she'll flat spin with the best of them, she'll tumble with the best of them.

However where this bird excells is precision!! Never have I ssen an airplane roll so cleanly as does the Katana. Quick, precise and axial. Slow rolls, point rolls, the the ever hard to master rolling circle are where this bird feels at home. Punching clean lines, climbing into perfectly round loops, cuban 8's, split s's, immelmans, and stall turns has never looked so pretty than done with the Katana.

Landing is a breeze, leave a tad of throttle on and she'll lower herself to the ground for a pretty landing and rollout.

Here is my Katana. She is powered with an Eflite power 10, Eflite 40amp esc with dimension engineering BEC, 12X7 Xoar Prop, with a 2" tru turn e-spinner. Decals are my design created by scottsrc.com

The ultimate in "the next step to 3d". So you have 3 or 4 aileron models under your belt , you have played with aerobatics and you feel like broadening you horizons and dabbling in 3d. Take a hard look at the 3dhobbyshop Extra SHP. Designed by Scott Stoops and Ben Fisher to be a very forgiving , and floaty airframe , the shp provides the tools necessary to build 3d confidence.

The best part of the SHP is its versatility. It can easily be flown as a sport model with attitude if one simpy just tones down the throws. She'll fly a precision line with the best of them, and with a simple flip of the high rate switch you will unlock a little 3d monster within.

The model is fantastic for harriering --up high, down low, doesnt matter; the SHP is rock solid with virtually zero wing rock. Rolls are slow and easily managable allowing an very clean 1 stick rolling harrier. Hovers are easy with her locking in solid and being touchy on the throws for quick corrections. Flats spins are a thing of beauty, as well as blenders.

Landing I found to be a bit tricky as she just wants to float and float. Long and shallow glide slopes will reward you with beautiful landings. The SHP carbon gear is like haveing an airplane on springs and will save you in case of a bumpy landing.

Here is my SHP: Same power sysytem as the EF yak, with decals again comeing from scottsrc.com

I have just sold this airframe to make some room on the wall for the SR!

Ok, I ended up getting a bit done on the fuselage this morning, so I thought I'd make another entry here.

Bill built the firewall with the intent to mount a motor behind it. The motor I went with mounts in front, so I had to modify things a bit. I wanted to retain the looks, so I decided to cut the front of the fuselage off, and put a new firewall farther back, and use the cut off portion of the fuselage for a cowling.

I made a clean cut, then sanded the ends flat for a good fit. Once I built the firewall, I bolted the motor mount up to it, gluing the nuts to the back of the firewall with CA so that I can remove the mount if I ever need to and not have the nuts fall off the back. It would be near impossible to get to the back to hold them in place to put the motor on later. Then I glued it into the fuselage.

I used two flat pieces of ply to fit the cowling in the fuselage and keep it centered up, two small screws on the top and two more on the bottom secure the cowling, they go through the fuselage into the ply plates.

With everything in place, I test fit the motor in the fuselage, with the cowling and prop on. Everything fits great, with plenty of room for air to get to the motor and into the fuse to keep things cool. The wood prop looks nice on there too!

Stay tuned for more later!

Well with 4000 posts on me now I figured its a good time to start my blog. As in my Sig line I'm a we bit of a 3dhs junkie. So I figured I would write a small review of each of the planes I fly with my opinions of each.

We'll start off with the first plane I pruchase from 3dhs, not a true 3dhs plane but still it started my loyal following to Ben and his business.

Extremeflight Yak 54 47.5"

There are numerous threads about this aircraft. I found it to be above else very scale in appearance, and fun to fly. Yaks as a whole have some different flight charaterisitics, number one thing to remember with a yak is that big ole cowl on the front which makes the plane so attractive, acts a big ole bucket for air. This is good in the fact that it keeps electronics cool, but bad in the fact that you have to prep for it, as it slows the aircraft very quickly in all maneuvers. The EF yak when slowed will drop a wing generally as usual the port wing, its a half way gentle snap, which is recoverable from altitude, but at low it could be dangerous.

Because of the above I found that in order to complete what is normally a 2/3-1/2 power maneuver with a "extra" style aircraft the yak requires 1/2 to 5/8 thottle just to keep a little extra speed on to make the manuevers clean. Remember that cowl also cuts down on your prop efficenty as much of the prop diameter is blocked as well. Once you get used to flying the yak she is very, very fun to fly.

I have found the...Continue Reading

Well, I have had some time on my hands lately since I was laid-off the week of Thanksgiving . I've got some irons in the fire - but idle hands are the devil's tools - so, I'm trying to get this thing finished.

Last night I masked the canopy using Tamiya striping tape, and 3M Blue painter's tape. Both of these tapes are cheap, easy to use, and work really well.

This morning, I broke out the Acetone and started stripping the underside of the cowling, where I need to spray white. To my dismay - it's black, unlike the Corsair cowlings. So, we'll see how it goes. I think the orange may have been better for spraying white on....Continue Reading

The first thing I did was finish up the ailerons. (well not entirely, I did start on the fuselage and did a bit on that, but I'll save that for when it's done... )

Bill included the aileron linkages with the airframe. All I had to do was round the leading edges of the ailerons themselves, install the hinges, and make up the linkages and fit them into the wing. Then I built the servo mount and finished up the center of the wing around that.

With this done, the lower and upper wings are nearly ready for covering! The only thing left is to figure out how I want to do the struts, and build mounts for them into the wings.

Next installment, finishing up the fuselage. That will involve the landing gear, motor mount, mounting the electronics, etc. Should be fun... Stay tuned!

OK, so I've not done these Blogs yet, and decided to give it a go. Besides, I've got a great subject here.

I'll do this as sort of a "build log" of a great little biplane I'm working on at the moment. Here's the story. Bill, aka "Kam Arrow" posted in the free items section with this airframe he designed and started building. I kindly expressed my interest, and received a message that it could be mine for the price of shipping. Thanks Bill!

So I got the airframe here, along with the drawings, and some templates for parts. I must say that Bill did a great job on this one! Here's what it looked like. (These are Bill's pictures from the thread listing the item.)

So the propellers from Illinois made it after only 4 days. The propellers from China R still working their way through. Eventually we'll have a collection of 3 blade props as backups.

Got through 3 batteries without a crash. Hooray. The 10x4.5's + a very balanced ship got 9 minute flight times. Motor propeller combination is that important. Unfortunately we're still behind the T-Rex.

Besides flight time, we now have a freakishly quiet ship. Motor adjustment & slower RPM definitely paid off. Holy mother of mufflers it's quiet. Never heard of a powered aircraft so quiet. Even those powered gliders R like semi trucks in comparison.

The piece de resistance was of course, AUTOMATED TAKEOFF & LANDING using GPS ONLY. That's right kids. They say if U can get automated takeoff & landing to work using GPS only, U still can't afford a house but U must be able to afford something. It's much easier on a quad rotor because it's harder to flip over.

Programmed a bunch of rules for takeoff to work around GPS.

1) Minimum collective at power on starts the auto takeoff. Wait until absolute GPS climb rate is below a maximum starting value. Then set the hover position 10m above the stable altitude reading. Neutral cyclic & rudder R set to the starting stick positions.

2) Ramp collective until GPS climb rate is above a minimum ending value. Maintain 0 horizontal velocity & disregard position. U need to ramp fast enough for the attitude...Continue Reading